tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-83900717555497390982024-03-13T20:20:56.578-07:00Old Bones and New AdventuresUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger43125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-14185401039125851072020-08-17T15:32:00.000-07:002020-08-17T15:39:42.639-07:00Ruminations on the "deer" of deer stones<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Last week, followers of the CSEN Twitter
account may have seen the retweet and translation of
the image below, originally tweeted by turbat</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span class="css-901oao css-16my406 r-1qd0xha r-ad9z0x r-bcqeeo r-qvutc0"><span class="css-901oao css-16my406 r-1qd0xha r-ad9z0x r-bcqeeo r-qvutc0"> </span></span>(<a href="https://twitter.com/turbat1" target="_blank">turbat1</a>) on Twitter:</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp-QhWEnVFatTdP4FJDDSBqdYvJi-m-JtBLFKRLStw5Rmy0NhkwwHrPgWAiH6ELq2KpW4tZxVWbqM-4MtuhjqzjzRCkca83_cIti4nqh_D4p64Wx2xONheZAcFY6KUVf1QRPmiY6IZlHY/s1600/2020-08-14a+-+from+turbat%2527s+twitter+account.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="938" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp-QhWEnVFatTdP4FJDDSBqdYvJi-m-JtBLFKRLStw5Rmy0NhkwwHrPgWAiH6ELq2KpW4tZxVWbqM-4MtuhjqzjzRCkca83_cIti4nqh_D4p64Wx2xONheZAcFY6KUVf1QRPmiY6IZlHY/s640/2020-08-14a+-+from+turbat%2527s+twitter+account.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="css-901oao css-16my406 r-1qd0xha r-ad9z0x r-bcqeeo r-qvutc0"><b>Turbat's original tweet: </b>Тамчийн дацангийн (Галуут нуур) буган хөшөө. Буриад (ХХ зууны эхэн үе)</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> <a href="https://twitter.com/csen_nomads/status/1294372180155719680" target="_blank">My translation</a> of <a href="https://twitter.com/turbat1/status/1294283317995425792" target="_blank">turbat's tweet</a> into English: </span><br /><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span class="css-901oao css-16my406 r-1qd0xha r-ad9z0x r-bcqeeo r-qvutc0"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span class="css-901oao css-16my406 r-1qd0xha r-ad9z0x r-bcqeeo r-qvutc0"> </span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span class="css-901oao css-16my406 r-1qd0xha r-ad9z0x r-bcqeeo r-qvutc0"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span class="css-901oao css-16my406 r-1qd0xha r-ad9z0x r-bcqeeo r-qvutc0">"Deer stone at Tamch datsan (college at a Buddhist lamasery), Galuut Lake (Lake Gusinoye), Buryatia, beginning of the 20th cent."</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">In response to this image of a horse in amazing regalia
next to a deer stone, L. Dorjnamjim (<a href="https://twitter.com/DorjnamjimL" target="_blank">DorjnamjimL</a>) asked on Twitter whether the antlered animals on deer stones were “deer or
elk”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His question prompted me to dive
into the question of the “deer” on “deer stones”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact, I thought about it so much that I
resurrected my old blog just to collect all my thoughts into one place! </span></span></div>
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<br />
<a name='more'></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Mongolia hosts remarkable archaeological features across
millennia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Deer stones are some of the
most striking, the tallest towering up to 3 meters over the steppe and inscribed
with a stunning array of stylized imagery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Deer stones date to the Late and Final Bronze ages (approx. 1500-700
BCE), and are distributed across the Altai Mountains, Tuva, Transbaikalia,
Xinjiang, and much of Mongolia; they are often associated with other standing
stones and monumental mounds or <i>khirigs</i></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><i><span class="3oh-"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">ü</span></span></i></span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><i><span class="3oh-"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span class="3oh-"><span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">ü</span></span></span></span>rs</i> (see Honeychurch,
2015).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dr. Bill Honeychurch’s <a href="https://link.springer.com/book/10.1007/978-1-4939-1815-7" target="_blank"><i>Inner Asia and the Spatial Politics of Empire</i></a> (2015) provides an excellent
overview of deer stones contextualizing them in the broader archaeological
account of Mongolia and Inner Asia.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Согоо (<a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl" target="_blank">sogoomgl </a>on Twitter) recently <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295355723035996160" target="_blank">posted </a>a <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295357070305185795" target="_blank">number </a>of <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295357580068487168" target="_blank">tweets </a>on <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295357927012724736" target="_blank">deer </a><a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295358096550711297" target="_blank">imagery </a>and <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295361622634971137" target="_blank">deer </a><a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295362857773670401" target="_blank">stones </a>in <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295363092113547265" target="_blank">Mongolia </a><a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295364433787592705" target="_blank">and </a><a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295366651831975937" target="_blank">Transbaikalia </a>in <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295368977338609665" target="_blank">Mongolian</a>. My profile picture includes a deer stone at Jargalant, Khentii province, Mongolia, that's part of a larger deer stone-slab burial complex.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezauZc29m9LvjGtxVl-n5wHFmwpCUaJXl3yPtjaPd8dwfrdhDW_fcDteCK3yWh8tYk8cO2w4ZAodWpdNjAYZhCngh1MT6EVCT1PI34RO1FNRg5_cqVEuWPLQX11Z08aza7kwDrypWrFI/s1600/Khentii+deer+stone+-+Aug.+2015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezauZc29m9LvjGtxVl-n5wHFmwpCUaJXl3yPtjaPd8dwfrdhDW_fcDteCK3yWh8tYk8cO2w4ZAodWpdNjAYZhCngh1MT6EVCT1PI34RO1FNRg5_cqVEuWPLQX11Z08aza7kwDrypWrFI/s400/Khentii+deer+stone+-+Aug.+2015.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Don't worry, I'm not actually pushing on the Jargalant deer stone </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">(although maybe I should catch it before it completely falls over...) </span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EfoRGCdUwAUyDGu?format=jpg&name=medium" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="726" data-original-width="800" height="362" src="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EfoRGCdUwAUyDGu?format=jpg&name=medium" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">A much better image of what I'm fairly certain is the Jargalant deer stone from Согоо <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295366651831975937/photo/1" target="_blank">on Twitter</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Deer stones derive their name from the antlered animals
depicted on their surfaces.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="background: white; color: black;">English-language scholarship generally refers to the Late Bronze Age inscribed
stelae of Mongolia and adjacent regions as “deerstones” or “deer stones”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In Mongolian, these standing stones are “буган
чулуу” (“deer stones”).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To the best of
my understanding, the same archaeological features are called “</span>oленные камни”
in Russian (again, “deer stones”).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EfoJUrwUMAA1HXs?format=jpg&name=medium" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="800" height="566" src="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EfoJUrwUMAA1HXs?format=jpg&name=medium" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Image credit: <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295358096550711297" target="_blank">Согоо</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Above are a collection of high-quality images from Согоо of the three types of deer stone, all found in Mongolia. His original tweet reads: "</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span class="css-901oao css-16my406 r-1qd0xha r-ad9z0x r-bcqeeo r-qvutc0">Буган чулуун хөшөөний 3 хэлбэр 1. Монгол-Өвөр байгалын хэлбэр (Шивэртийн ам, Баянцагааны хөндий, Их Тамир, Архангай) 2. Саян-Алтайн хэлбэр (Дөрөлжийн ам, Шинэ-Идэр, Хөвсгөл) 3. Евразийн хэлбэр (Жаргалантын ам, Хануйн хөндий, Өндөр-Улаан, Архангай)". </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of figures"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="envelope return"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="footnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="line number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="page number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="List Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="List Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="List Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="List Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="List Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="List Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="List Table 7 Colorful"/>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EfoJK0tVoAUFug2?format=jpg&name=medium" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EfoJK0tVoAUFug2?format=jpg&name=medium" width="480" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The Ulaan tolgoi deer stones. Image credit: <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295357927012724736" target="_blank">Согоо</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">In
English-language sources, I have sometimes seen “elk stones” or “reindeer
stones” used instead of “deer stones”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>However, these three terms are by no means synonymous.</span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">In the colloquial use of English, “deer” encompasses a
number of members of the Cervidae family, including: </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4b/Cervus_elaphus_Luc_Viatour_6.jpg/440px-Cervus_elaphus_Luc_Viatour_6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="293" data-original-width="440" height="213" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4b/Cervus_elaphus_Luc_Viatour_6.jpg/440px-Cervus_elaphus_Luc_Viatour_6.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Red deer (<i>Cervus
elaphus</i>). Image credit: Wikipedia</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/55/Rocky_Mountain_Bull_Elk.jpg/1024px-Rocky_Mountain_Bull_Elk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="800" height="255" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/55/Rocky_Mountain_Bull_Elk.jpg/1024px-Rocky_Mountain_Bull_Elk.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">American elk or wapiti (<i>Cervus canadensis</i>). </span><br /><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Image credit: Wikipedia</span></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Fallow_deer_in_field.jpg/1024px-Fallow_deer_in_field.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Fallow_deer_in_field.jpg/1024px-Fallow_deer_in_field.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Fallow deer (<i>Dama
dama</i>). </span><br />
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Image credit: Wikipedia</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b7/White-tailed_deer.jpg/1024px-White-tailed_deer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="608" data-original-width="800" height="243" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b7/White-tailed_deer.jpg/1024px-White-tailed_deer.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">White-tailed deer (<i>Odocoileus </i></span><i><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">virginianus</span></i><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">). </span><br /><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Image credit: Wikipedia</span></span></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8b/Capreolus_capreolus_2_Jojo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="462" data-original-width="800" height="184" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8b/Capreolus_capreolus_2_Jojo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Roe deer (<i>Capreolus capreolus</i>). </span><br />
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Image credit: Wikipedia</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">What about another antlered option: reindeer?</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Reinbukken_p%C3%A5_frisk_gr%C3%B8nt_beite._-_panoramio.jpg/1280px-Reinbukken_p%C3%A5_frisk_gr%C3%B8nt_beite._-_panoramio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="541" data-original-width="800" height="216" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/96/Reinbukken_p%C3%A5_frisk_gr%C3%B8nt_beite._-_panoramio.jpg/1280px-Reinbukken_p%C3%A5_frisk_gr%C3%B8nt_beite._-_panoramio.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Image credit: Wikipedia</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Reindeer or caribou (<i>Rangifer tarandus</i>) present an ambiguous case.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While “deer” is literally a component part of
“reindeer”, I would posit that English speakers differentiate between “deer”
and “reindeer”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For example, we speak of
“Santa’s reindeer”, never “Santa’s deer”; in the same vein, “deer hunting” is
not the same as “reindeer hunting”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">
</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">An unambiguous case is <i>Alces alces</i>, a member of the
Family Cervidae which is definitely not called a “deer” in English:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8b/Moose_superior.jpg/1024px-Moose_superior.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="749" data-original-width="800" height="299" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/8b/Moose_superior.jpg/1024px-Moose_superior.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><i>Alces alces. </i>Image credit: Wikipedia</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-bottom: 0in; margin-top: 0in; mso-add-space: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: 10.0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: 0in;">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><i>Alces alces </i>is a member of the Family Cervidae, but its massive size and striking appearance mean that few English speakers would call it a "deer". However, English speakers don't agree on what exactly to call <i>Alces alces </i>in common parlance. American English uses the name "moose", while British English calls it “elk”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">This introduces yet another complication: “elk” vs.
“elk”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Elk” in the British sense refers
to <i>Alces alces</i>, whereas “elk” in American English refers to <i>Cervus
canadensis </i>(also called wapiti).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>These are two very distinct cervids stuck sharing one name.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The term “elk stone”, therefore, raises the
question of which “elk”? </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">American elk or wapiti refers to <i>Cervus canadensis</i>,
which is visually quite similar to <i>Cervus elaphus </i>(red deer).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While they are distinct species, <i>Cervus
canadensis </i>and <i>Cervus elaphus </i>could be mistaken for one another on
the basis of looks alone (important when we are working with visual depictions
of animals).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To the best of my
knowledge, <i>Cervus canadensis</i> live today both in Asia and North America
(including parts of Mongolia and Siberia), whereas <i>Cervus elaphus </i>reside
in Europe, parts of North Africa, and Western Asia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Historically, the two species’ territories
may have overlapped near or even in parts of Mongolia and southern
Siberia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wapiti/American elk and red
deer are thus two easily-confused cervids.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Overall, the Family Cervidae can rightly be called “deer” in
English (I think this is also the case for “oлень” in Russian), where “deer” is
a colloquial rather than technical category.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We could arguably leave it at that: “deer stones” refer to members of
the Family Cervidae, whichever species they may be.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, there’s an argument to be made for
narrowing down the specific type of deer depicted on deer stones if the deer
are meant to represent actual herds of cervids. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">On the deer stones from Mongolia with which I am most
familiar, the deer are depicted as single-file lines of antlered animals
running around the standing stone in a loop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The antlers are key.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The curling,
flowing antlers are instantly recognizable and a clear sign that cervids –
generic “deer” – are represented on these standing stones.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Frankly, I don’t know of any deer stones that
include deer without antlers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But please
let me know if you have any examples of deer stones with antlerless deer. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background: white; color: black;">These single-file lines are often interpreted as
herds in motion: antlered deer fleeing from hunters or galloping across the
landscape.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If the antlered deer on deer
stones are meant to represent herds, the imagery should include both male and
female animals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both males and females
grow antlers in only one member of the Family Cervidae: reindeer/caribou (</span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: black;">Rangifer tarandus</span></i><span style="background: white; color: black;">).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Today ethnic groups in areas where deer stones are found - Northern Mongolia, northern China, Buryatia,
Tuva, and Siberia - herd domesticated reindeer.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://i.insider.com/53764e3fecad04661d818712?width=1100&format=jpeg&auto=webp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="665" data-original-width="800" height="331" src="https://i.insider.com/53764e3fecad04661d818712?width=1100&format=jpeg&auto=webp" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">A young Tsaatan/Dukha girl in Northern Mongolia with two domesticated reindeer. Image credit: <a href="https://www.businessinsider.com/jeroen-toirkens-photos-of-dukha-reindeer-herders-of-mongolia-2014-5" target="_blank">Jeroen Toirkens</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background: white; color: black;">Given the case I've laid out arguing that the "deer" depicted on deer stones are in fact reindeer, do I think we should start calling them “reindeer
stones” rather than “deer stones”?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not
really.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The “deer” images on deer stones
are highly stylized, rather than naturalistic depictions of living animals, and
join a broader assemblage of symbols and images that comprise the surface of a
given deer stone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EfoIYhNUcAYMbyX?format=jpg&name=medium" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="534" height="640" src="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/EfoIYhNUcAYMbyX?format=jpg&name=medium" width="426" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Close-up of the "deer" of a deer stone in Mongolia. Image credit: <a href="https://twitter.com/sogoomgl/status/1295357070305185795/photo/1" target="_blank">Согоо</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background: white; color: black;">Archaeologists have
debated the origins and functions of deer stones for decades, but their
symbolic character is widely recognized (and hard for even a casual observer to
miss).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The eponymous “deer”, therefore,
are likely to be more than just deer.</span><span style="background: white; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-bidi-font-style: italic;"></span></span></div>
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</span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-52307303672611464402016-04-07T06:13:00.000-07:002016-04-07T06:13:25.519-07:00Image test: Mongolian archaeological edition There are two kinds of people in this world.<br />
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One is able to sift through the chaos, identifying patterns within the teeming sea of complexity that is the world around them. This kind of person is able to make sense of fragments, to string together seemingly disparate pieces of evidence into a compelling, comprehensible narrative. Such a person, when confronted with a tomb slab from a robbed burial in rural Mongolia, gazes into the strange and faded lines until an image emerges: the snarling face of a dragon, perhaps a guardian deity, mostly worn away by the elements over the centuries:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpihkLaY2AUS_1jAiIRImVsO82GXDATIkSeVaR7jnDP6nn5X-6mhJT8LabZnr6rT1tXRFuUnyQroW4ZEp_MBdXQibrAqqmbWveOUOgs5oNy5aW0GIvsUGKfwv5ej82PukwQcCczFrir50/s1600/Dragon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpihkLaY2AUS_1jAiIRImVsO82GXDATIkSeVaR7jnDP6nn5X-6mhJT8LabZnr6rT1tXRFuUnyQroW4ZEp_MBdXQibrAqqmbWveOUOgs5oNy5aW0GIvsUGKfwv5ej82PukwQcCczFrir50/s640/Dragon.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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This kind of person feels a connection with the ancient artisan who carved the image. Teeth bared, nostrils flared, and glaring eyes set wide apart, cerrtainly it is a dragon of the ancient world that stares back from cold stone. Indistinct though the image may be, features distorted by the ravages of time, and crafted in a culture with radically different ideological and artistic values, such a person invests in interpreting and appreciating this symbol from the distant past. <br />
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The second kind of person sees the stag on the first go:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGZ2QL1xeq0LsK7cRgvFZHsoWl2YZhgnb3OuGFZDIPOgKECb0zPsa-RcSasjjD9wK14YDyaFmAn3LQRdnZQoh9gre76QzWEKMoUR7h0jWSVzZlHvF4e8MgHPpkjDkzLd2B17abLiYcQc/s1600/Deer.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguGZ2QL1xeq0LsK7cRgvFZHsoWl2YZhgnb3OuGFZDIPOgKECb0zPsa-RcSasjjD9wK14YDyaFmAn3LQRdnZQoh9gre76QzWEKMoUR7h0jWSVzZlHvF4e8MgHPpkjDkzLd2B17abLiYcQc/s640/Deer.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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...I am the first kind of person.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-80982459024711591112016-03-27T16:39:00.001-07:002016-04-07T22:38:35.692-07:00Mongolia Inside & Out 107: Dog-eat-dog worldSpring has arrived in Ulaanbaatar, bringing a reprieve from the extreme winter air pollution and freezing temperatures that dominated the city just last month. Now that the nine nines (<a href="http://oldbonesandnewadventures.blogspot.com/2016/01/mongolia-inside-out-106-weather-and.html" style="font-style: italic;" target="_blank">yesun yeus</a>) are well and truly over, the snow has mostly melted from the surrounding hillsides and only occasional patches of black ice dot the city sidewalks. I've retired my pollution mask, heavy-duty winter boots, and full-length down jacket for the year. If any doubt of spring remained, I've been hearing boisterous clutches of sparrows chirruping and chattering in the bare branches of our courtyard and the nearby bakery.<br />
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WARNING: this post will discuss the animal welfare and rights situation in Mongolia, focusing on the status of cats and dogs in Ulaanbaatar. There are plenty of upsetting phenomena discussed below the cut. If you're sensitive or just don't feel up to ready about heavy issues today, don't read further.<br />
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Another feature of the urban environment has changed notably within the last month: where are all the dogs? Usually I see at least a few stray or roaming dogs every day in the city. In my old courtyard we had a few regular dogs, one of whom I'm very fond and miss now that I've moved, who took up residence and patrol in the courtyard for at least part of each day. Near my lab in a poorer, less developed part of town there are several lots I pass through that usually have some stray dogs and/or puppies scrounging for trash, or sleeping in the sun. But in the last few weeks I've seen only one or two dogs not with their owners. So, what's happened to the strays?<br />
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Ulaanbaatar has a long-term problem with stray animals, particularly dogs, throughout the city. But starting at the beginning of March the city initiated an aggressive year-long culling campaign to be carried out by its contracted kill groups to destroy cats and dogs found on the streets. Despite pleas from a major Mongolian newspaper to stop the cull, it's very clearly under way. This upsetting practice is by no means new; in previous years there have been bounties on dog and puppy corpses (leading to pets being kidnapped from their <i>khashaa</i> and family by people looking to make a quick <i>tugrik</i>) and culls seem to happen at least once a year in the city.<br />
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I can acknowledge that stray animals, especially those that pose a threat to humans, are a real problem for the city. A child was bitten by a dog just this month, causing understandable outcry (I believe the dog was a stray but many peoples's dogs roam the streets unchecked, so it's difficult to say). Many, many Mongolians are very afraid of dogs, as guard dogs (<i>khashaa </i>dogs) are usually trained to be vicious with outsiders and often all humans. On the other hand, most strays are terrified of or at least wary of people. I've encountered lots of strays in Ulaanbaatar and have never felt that even one was going to attack me. But that doesn't mean that stray dog attacks (let alone regular dog attacks) don't happen. Likely out of fear, many Mongolians in UB seem to have at best a wary attitude towards dogs in public, even puppies on leashes (yes, really). For the same reason, Mongolians teach their children at a young age to throw rocks at stray dogs that they encounter in public. <br />
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On the other hand, acts of terrible cruelty against strays are not uncommon and the startling indifference to animal suffering so common in UB public life shocks a lot of foreigners (and of course animal-loving Mongolians). For example, in a horrific case earlier this month some jackass kicked a stray dog so severely that it went blind. No one intervened on the dog's behalf and the man was never even reprimanded, let alone punished. There are no legal protections for animals in Mongolia and no penalties, aside from sporadic social censure, for harming them. Of course there are plenty of Mongolians who like animals and love their pets; there are Mongolian animal welfare and rights activists trying to change behaviors and attitudes through hard work and dedication. However, it's impossible to deny that Ulaanbaatar in particular is home to a lot of cruel and inhumane attitudes and behaviors towards animals.<br />
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But why are stray animals such a problem in Ulaanbaatar? Based on my experiences over the last 2+ years and talking to folks in the animal rescue communities here in Mongolia, there are three key reasons.<br />
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The first is that spaying and neutering of cats and dogs is very rarely practiced in Mongolia. One reason is cost: many Mongolians balk at surgery costs for their pets, especially the relatively more expensive spay surgery. But another is education. I have seen numerous fights in a number of Mongolian pet and animal lover Facebook groups about spaying and neutering. Some Mongolian members genuinely believe that all pets should "have their own families" - father or give birth to litters - without considering the fates of those litters in the long term. A popular type of post on these Facebook pages is the animal "family": mother, father, and young offspring together. Many Mongolians in these groups fall all over themselves with how cute and wonderful a cat "family" is, and it's not difficult to connect this to idealized visions of domesticity in the human realm in Mongolian culture. Having children is seen as a fundamental part of adult life in Mongolia: a joy, a blessing, a right of passage, and even a duty to one's nation and culture. It's not terribly hard to see how this perspective might be uncritically transferred to pets in the same cultural context.<br />
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Others are so motivated by how cute puppies and kittens are that they admit wanting a free and endless supply of them in their homes (again, without consideration for the long-term fate of those animals). Above all else, cat owners in Ulaanbaatar regularly post on these Facebook pages, pet shops, and veterinary clinics that their cat is looking for a "boyfriend" or "girlfriend". This is often a response to the female cat going into heat, especially when it's clear that the owner isn't willing to get her spayed or even buy the bizarre Russian "sex barrier" medications available in some pet shops (and apparently used here? It's a novelty to me!). But obviously the result will be kittens, and little forethought given to what will happen to them, especially when they are old enough to go into heat themselves. Some of the animal welfare and rights activists have been working hard to engage the public and discuss the health benefits of spay and neuter, to point out that unwanted puppies and kittens are destined to suffer terribly, and to provide free or low-cost spay surgeries. <br />
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I cannot understand why vets here in Mongolia are not more proactive about spaying and neutering, but from my personal experiences the majority are fairly indifferent when it comes to this topic (with, of course, some notable exceptions). Based on what I have been told by Mongolian activists and what I have experienced first-hand, veterinary training and ethical standards generally lag behind in Mongolia. An open secret in the animal rescue world is that the veterinary school in Ulaanbaatar grabs female stray dogs off the streets for their students to practice surgery (particularly spaying) on, then dumps them back on the streets even if the surgery was clearly botched. Lucky Paws/<i>Aztai Savar </i>NGO has rescued some of these female dogs and taken them to proper vet clinics to get them emergency treatment. But if the national veterinary training institution engages in this kind of behavior, it cannot bode well for future veterinarians and the human and animal lives that they will impact in Mongolia. There are obviously some amazingly kind and talented Mongolian vets who devote themselves to animal welfare and do right by their furry patients. But a system that overall adopts that attitude during veterinary training is broken and needs to be massively reformed.<br />
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Unfortunately, another cultural factor impedes even this laudable effort to fix pets. As I've also encountered in the US, there are certain (usually male) dog owners who believe that their male dogs absolutely must remain intact. Many of these dudes (this was definitely true in the US) have displaced their own insecurities and hangups about human masculinity and virility onto their male dogs. They do not connect behavioral issues (or sometimes welcome these issues) and suffering of unwanted homeless puppies with their male dog's unfettered ability to impregnate female dogs. This is particularly problematic because female dogs tend to become strays at a higher rate than male dogs. Most Mongolians do not want to have to worry about unwanted puppies in their <i>khashaa</i>, which will obviously occur if the dog is never spayed,<i> </i>and they can eliminate this problem by kicking out any female dogs. Those female dogs suffer, roam the streets, get impregnated, birth litters of puppies into the same hopeless setting, and the vicious cycle continues. Even Lucky Paws/<i>Aztai Savar</i>, the Mongolian animal rescue and welfare NGO, has focused its stray animal reduction campaign entirely on spaying and left out the neutering of male dogs; the campaign is even called "Spay/<i>Spei</i>". Thus, even Mongolians who care deeply and work extremely hard for the sake of cats and dogs in Ulaanbaatar are operating with blindspots when it comes to basic veterinary and animal health issues.<br />
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A second key reasons really pertains only to cats: there is widespread dislike, fear, and even hatred of cats in Mongolia. As a cat lover from birth, I can't understand it, but it's undeniable. I've seen a number of Mongolians literally climb walls or run to get away from a house cat. While many Mongolians see the utility of dogs for guarding home and herd, even if they don't feel affection towards the animals (although many clearly do), this attitude rarely extends to cats as mousers. Mongolian culture includes superstitions about cats sitting on a person's chest while they sleep in an effort to suck out their soul(!), and that cats are waiting around for their owners to die so that they can come masters of the home. On the other hand, there are absolutely Mongolian cat lovers (just look on Facebook!) and plenty of Mongolians agree that cats are ideal companions for the elderly and housebound. Thus, while anti-cat attitudes cannot be responsible for all the stray cats, they certainly don't help; in my experience, Mongolians are much more likely to adopt rescued dogs from Az Vet than cats.<br />
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Many of the anti-cat sentiments have played out before my eyes since I adopted two cats here in Mongolia. Julian was found during an unexpected early cold snap in late September 2013 by a foreigner getting ready to leave Mongolia. Back then he was a tiny kitten, screaming in an apartment block stairwell and unable to walk due to a debilitating limp. This foreigner posted on Facebook that she couldn't keep him and, wanting to help and to adopt a cat, I went to meet him. He was a sleepy, weak kitten unable to walk properly; I figured I would have a lifelong runt with limited mobility. How wrong I was! With proper food, Julian grew into a lithe, rambunctious, affectionate feline acrobat. To my shock, the vet believes Julian was already four months old when I found him (I would have guessed 2.5); now he's a talky, jaunty, snuggly tiger-prince. Sadly, I believe Julian went through some traumatic experiences before his rescuer found him. He remains utterly terrified of strangers, especially men, and has a highly-developed flight reaction. But I do everything in my power to provide him with a safe home, complete with toys and good places to nap.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiffQ_jgMilvUiSOHLrDLhWD9cAKazWYlmb_dTG_wgkl6w447Bs3B5ICg-iF9Oj6OtViqeihzdBuwoW4GqbNkSnwLsyCh3apHENorSMGnIQrYKHlfPuXle_zfcu2c7zEIW6MxDONCG4Jlc/s1600/March+2016+-+Julian+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiffQ_jgMilvUiSOHLrDLhWD9cAKazWYlmb_dTG_wgkl6w447Bs3B5ICg-iF9Oj6OtViqeihzdBuwoW4GqbNkSnwLsyCh3apHENorSMGnIQrYKHlfPuXle_zfcu2c7zEIW6MxDONCG4Jlc/s640/March+2016+-+Julian+4.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Julian stretched out in one of his favorite sleeping positions, with a Sharpie for scale.</td></tr>
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Max (or, more fully, Maximillian) was a slightly different case. When I started my tenure in Mongolia, I came with the mindset that I would absolutely adopt one (one!) cat in Ulaanbaatar and bring it back to the US upon my eventual return. I'm a cat person who had been living without a cat for years, all the while wishing and planning to adopt one. Xena, my poor puppy girl, was a surprise case; I found her on the street as a tiny puppy in March 2014 and gave her to a Mongolian family within six weeks, due to how quickly and completely she had outgrown apartment life in such a short period of time. But originally I only ever intended to adopt one pet while in Mongolia. But within a few weeks of rehoming Xena, a gregarious cat followed me through my courtyard all the way to my building entrance late one night. When I knelt down to set out some cat food, it jumped in my lap! Because I already had Julian, I hardened my heart - this was a friendly adult cat after all, maybe it would be OK - and went to bed. The next morning it was still there, waiting outside the entrance door for me. While it did eat, it yowled when left alone. Worried that someone would hurt it (no one likes a yowling cat), I brought it inside.<br />
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My main fear was, once I realized it was definitely a he, that Julian and he would fight. As a child our male cats loathed one another and could only "cohabitate" because we all lived on a farm with plenty of space. An apartment is an entirely different matter! This cat was dirty and exhausted, and not pleased with Julian at first. But for Julian, it was love at first sight; he patiently and playfully showed himself to be no threat, then a friend, then a snuggle-buddy. They were cuddled together sleeping within a few hours of first meeting. Even then, I thought I couldn't possibly have two cats. I took Max, who finally got a name, to the vet (who believed him to be 4-5 years old at the time) for a checkup and to get neutered, but continued to look for a suitable long-term owner for him. Long story short: it was me all along! <br />
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Even though poor Max has some behavioral issues, including biting, that have gotten better over the years but not disappeared, he's extremely loving and friendly. Like Julian, I believe he went through some traumatic experiences in his old life; my guess is that he was mistreated by previous owners (he is far too gregarious with people to have been a stray his whole life), who taught him that he needs to defend himself physically from people who should never do him harm. Max also has a bit of an eating disorder: he probably went from a normal diet to starvation when he was dumped on the streets, and never forgot those hungry days, weeks, or months. Now he's pretty overweight as a result of overeating, unlike Julian, who is a very picky eater and, in my opinion, chronically underweight. Also unlike Julian, Max loves people (even when he's biting them!) and would gladly harass all visitors to my apartment with his aggressive affection if I would let him.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizb8phlCXf035D8CLZEvwkv-SnWrtBjUy2HKDoM0UyFJJrq1JyIKOtK8Nm5_f0iVJZ8ICzxuzLlcPbFLsN6l1qFquwq7J8SwgUjoz-szRK6QTHGwWaR_4L4T1VqzxYYX7Gxk_TrC2y9wA/s1600/March+2016+-+Max+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizb8phlCXf035D8CLZEvwkv-SnWrtBjUy2HKDoM0UyFJJrq1JyIKOtK8Nm5_f0iVJZ8ICzxuzLlcPbFLsN6l1qFquwq7J8SwgUjoz-szRK6QTHGwWaR_4L4T1VqzxYYX7Gxk_TrC2y9wA/s640/March+2016+-+Max+4.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Max curled up with one of many decimated cat toys that litter the apartment.</td></tr>
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While relocating pets from Mongolia to other countries is a stressful process, Julian and Max will be coming with me when it's time for me to move on from Mongolia. When that time comes I'll post more about the process and overall experience, hopefully with happy news of how well it went and how easily both adjusted to their new lives.<br />
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Building off of Max's story, a third key reason for the city's stray population is that people here dump their pets. Whether people become overwhelmed with animal care or grow tired of their pets, it is not uncommon in UB to see what is clearly a house pet scrambling through the daunting urban environment in terror. My old courtyard was a popular pet dumping ground - I'm 90% certain that's how Max came into my life - and I personally saw a number of cats (clearly well-groomed, clearly used to living inside, clearly scared out of their wits) end up hiding under cars or in hidey-holes in that courtyard. Dumping is certainly not reserved only for cats.<br />
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The Mongolian animal lover and welfare Facebook pages often have photos of pure-bred dogs - Golden Retrievers, Dalmatians, German Shepherds - running loose in the city. Purebred dogs are, as in most countries, much more sought after than mixed breeds in Ulaanbaatar. Fads centered on different breeds have also swept through UB; everyone is gaga over Cocker spaniels, then it's Huskies, then it's Dalmatians. Pets as toys or luxury objects is a world-wide problem, but the added problem in Mongolia is that so many of these breeds cannot possibly survive the winter outdoors. When the short-haired breeds interbreed with strays, they produce puppies that also rarely survive the winter (and stray puppies go through massive die-offs during winter anyway); the pure-bred adults definitely don't stand a chance. All of this makes the dumping phenomenon even worse, not to mention the lack of spay and neuter. Sometimes the pure-bred dogs roaming the streets animals have simply gotten loose (something that most pet owners here don't connect with the fact that these animals are usually not fixed) but, more often than not, these animals have been turned out of their homes to face the streets completely unprepared. <br />
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Even if these animals have temporarily gotten loose, if they are unfixed (see above), they are contributing to the stray dog population because, one way or another, their shenanigans will result in more unwanted puppies. Coupled with the dumping of pets, this means that there are tons of puppies and dogs that could be trained and taken into someone's home that just can't catch a break. Personally, I'm convinced that both the "pet as toy/luxury object" mindset and the behavioral problems associated with not fixing and properly training your growing puppy or kitten are largely responsible for the dumping. Based on the conversations in numerous Mongolian Facebook groups devoted to pets, it's pretty clear that a lot of Mongolians have no idea how to raise and properly care for cats and dogs, that there isn't available literature or information in Mongolian, and that many pet owners are totally unprepared for what's involved. Many cases of mistreatment are probably due to ignorance and I am confident that many first-time pet owners mean well; they just don't have the necessary support. <br />
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Sadly, I can say from personal that plenty of vets here (although by no means all) have incorrect and sometimes even dangerous ideas about animal nutrition and care. If vets are traditionally the best resource on caring for your pet, what happens to you and your animal when you're getting bad advice? Unfortunately there are no real animal shelters in Mongolia. The closest is Az Vet, the clinic run by Lucky Paws/<i>Aztai Savar</i> NGO, that provides low-cost veterinary care and rehabilitation for rescued animals. But this facility has low capacity and limited veterinary services. I won't even address pet shops here aside from saying that, if you need to buy pet supplies, DO NOT buy from any shop that also sells cats and/or dogs (and I would apply this anywhere in the world); frankly, in Mongolia, don't buy from a shop that sells any live animals under any circumstances. <br />
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When I first moved to Ulaanbaatar, I constantly wished for someone to swoop in and save the poor cats and dogs I saw on the streets what felt like every day of the week. I used to frequently wonder why someone wasn't doing something. But having actually gotten involved and having seen what it takes, I've realized that if you can't or aren't willing to intervene and save the animal yourself - to take it to the vet, to find it a foster and then forever-home - then you can't expect someone else to save that animal. I struggle with this attitude in myself and other foreigners to this day; it's understandable to want someone else to fix things, but it's ultimately unrealistic and unhelpful unless you're willing to get involved yourself. Unless and until more services and resources become available thanks to financial and logistical support from more powerful and capable organizations and institutions operating in Mongolia, that's just how it's going to be. Certainly all the suffering cats and dogs simply cannot be saved in the current situation. Money, human resources (rescuers and foster homes), and space at Az Vet cannot possibly stretch far enough to accommodate all those in need. Plus, any rescued animal eventually has to be adopted into a safe, happy, permanent home; otherwise, an animal's been rescued and cared for only to be dumped on the streets again. <br />
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I won't pretend that observing the suffering of cats and dogs in Ulaanbaatar hasn't been extremely difficult to take. It's also extremely likely, from what I've been told by Mongolian animal rescue activists, that the cull workers won't differentiate between strays and pets; not that I think strays should be killed, but it's extra upsetting that a government-sanctioned program would be so negligent as to kill family pets. Recently I've pulled back from my involvement with animal rescue and welfare activities - partly because of the terrible defeat that is the city-wide cull - because being that close to the suffering and feeling like things are actually getting worse is just so depressing.<br />
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There have also been several scandals in recent years over the consumption of dog meat. A widely-circulated photo on Mongolian Facebook shows a half-eaten <i>khuushuur </i>- flat fried dumpling filled with mutton or goat meat - with a dog tooth sticking out of the lump of ground meat in the middle. While some believe this photo was faked, partially to discredit a chain of restaurants here in UB, the photos and videos of the luring/capturing, selling, cooking, and consuming of dogs in the poorer areas of the city add up to a wider phenomenon that's likely representative of things that actually happen here in the city. <br />
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Part of the scandal is that many of these videos and photos show Vietnamese people (usually mechanics) engaged in these practices, although by no means exclusively; adding fuel to the scandal-fire in some photos and videos was the presence of Mongolian women at what appeared to be a dog-meat feast at a Vietnamese mechanic's shop. Give the widespread and often virulent xenophobic attitudes toward other Asians living in Mongolia - and Vietnamese people are hit particularly hard by this - and the long-term trend of verbally and physically violent misogyny against Mongolian women who "fraternize" with non-Mongolian men (honestly, plenty of white North American, Australian, and European men get hassled or even assaulted for their romantic relationships with Mongolian women but! In my experience the Mongolian woman in the couple gets it ten times worse) mean I took the online backlash against dog-eating with a massive grain of salt. How much of the outrage is really about the suffering of animals, how much is about revulsion at eating the 'wrong' kind of animal, and how much is just a new way to shit all over vulnerable outsiders or women whose behavior certain people would like to police?<br />
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<a href="http://www.bankhar.org/" target="_blank">Mongolian Bankhar Dog Project</a> has for several years worked hard to promote, train, and reintroduce the heritage breed of guardian dogs in Mongolia. They've been a great success, placing <i>bankhar </i>dogs with herding families throughout Mongolia to protect livestock, reduce stress on herders, and reduce violent retaliation against big predators like snow leopards. Their website and Facebook pages have lots of information, as well as videos and photos, of their progress and their wonderful dogs. However, their mission focuses solely on this breed and they are not involved in other dog rescue or welfare activities. As of writing, only Lucky Paws/<i>Aztai Savar </i>NGO is working on cat and dog rescue and welfare in Mongolia; no international NGOs are involved with such efforts in Mongolia at the time of writing this.<br />
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I cannot emphasize enough how much incredible work the Mongolian animal welfare activists have accomplished trying to save suffering cats and dogs (and sometimes wild animals!) in Ulaanbaatar and beyond. The active rescuers, fosterers, and other volunteers are amazingly dedicated and deserve tons of respect. Despite having no reliable external funding source, instead donating from their own pockets and working for free, and only one NGO run by volunteers, the active rescuers and fosterers have saved dozens of cats and dogs over the past few years. For Lucky Paws/<i>Aztai Savar </i>in particular, these include animals with terrible injuries needing expensive surgeries and long-term rehabilitative care. Most of the daily care for cats and dogs fostered at Az Vet is done by volunteers, and the food and supplies for these animals are largely donations from a small number of committed Mongolians. Currently Lucky Paws/<i>Aztai Savar </i>is providing free spay surgeries for female dogs that it has rescued, and plans to expand the program if possible. <br />
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I would love to be optimistic about where things are headed for the cats and dogs of Mongolia, for their owners and for the general public. I would love to see governmental and international organizations step up and help the current animal welfare and rights activist communities in Mongolia. I would love to see all the dogs and cats currently fostered at Az Vet adopted into loving forever-homes. After a long harsh winter, maybe a little optimism can take root on this quiet spring morning in Ulaanbaatar and blossom like the <i>yargui </i>(snowdrop) on the surrounding hills.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-13953677055938606392016-01-19T06:56:00.000-08:002016-01-19T19:35:02.891-08:00Mongolia Inside & Out 106: Weather and seasonsSeasons are culturally-specific concepts used to understand ecological and meteorological phenomena through categorization. While the four-season model applies to much of the world, there are numerous exceptions both culturally and climatically. Mongolia generally adheres to the four-season breakdown of a calendar year; however, the timing, significance, and associations of each season differ in important ways from those in the English-speaking Western world.<br />
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Throughout the calendar year Mongolia is blessed with an unusually high proportion of sunny days (clocking it at over 250 per year on average). Mongolia's relatively high altitude and numerous clear days avowedly bear some connection to its popular characterization as the Land of Blue Sky, the Land of Eternal Blue Heaven, or some other poetic variation. Photographs do not do justice to the vast expanse of vivid blue, often dotted by impossibly-white cloud confections, that towers over the rolling steppe, the dark hills, and the hazy desert-steppe scrubland.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brilliant summer sky over the statue of Sukhbaatar in Sukhbaatar Square, downtown Ulaanbaatar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn on the steppe</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Late afternoon in the sand dunes of Elsen Tasarkhai</td></tr>
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However, it's not all blue skies. Mongolian storms can be sudden and apocalyptic. Global climate change coupled with desertification in Mongolia has led to a recent increase in dangerous flooding, especially in the southern parts of the country.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thunder storm over the eastern Gobi desert</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lightning strikes during a flash flood in the Middle Gobi desert</td></tr>
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It's difficult to discuss Mongolian weather in general, as it is so much a function of the given season. On the one hand, a single day in any season may bring some combination of gorgeous blue skies, hail, and high winds. Snow can fall even in the middle of summer and the sun's rays are as piercing in January as in July. While Mongolia is overall an arid place of extreme temperatures, let's take a look at each of the four seasons to develop a richer picture of what might be in store for you during your next visit.<br />
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FALL:<br />
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Autumn is arguably Mo<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">ngolia's finest season. </span>In Central Mongolia, nomadic families move to their fall encampment or <i>namarjaa </i>(намаржаа) starting around August 15th, which marks the beginning of autumn. <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Late August and September are ideal times to enjoy the countryside, where the weather is cool but not yet arctic and a number of inconveniences (insects, tourists) drop off sharply. Autumn is the season when most indigenous berries and nuts ripen in Central Mongolia, including vitamin C-rich seabuckthorn (чацаргана), and when <i>airag</i> (fermented mare's milk) is at its tastiest and most potent.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Autumn in the <i>khangai</i></td></tr>
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Cranes, swans, and other migratory birds pass through Mongolia in pairs and flocks during autumn. Most notable is the massive swan migration to Ganga Lake in Sukhbaatar province, eastern Mongolia. Most resorts and ger camps in the countryside close for the season in late September or early October. Traveling later in the year than that can be a bit more challenging as a result.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">September along the Orkhon River</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">WINTER:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Mongolian winter is no joke. Ulaanbaatar is the world's coldest capital and in locations across the country winter temperatures plummet to -40C (even colder in the north). On New Year's Day 2016, it dipped to -35C in the capital!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Mongolia regularly falls victim to the <i>zud</i>, commonly translated to "winter disaster", which kills off numerous livestock when it hits. <i>Zud </i>is a weather phenomenon but is measured almost entirely in its effect on herd animals. There are several types of <i>zud</i> but all are devastating, including:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Gan zud </i>("drought winter disaster") is said to be the result of ice covering up all the pastureland. I also suspect it is related to the difficulty of getting at fresh water through thick ice, which is especially hard on бог мал (<i>bog mal</i>, the class of livestock made up of sheep and goats).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Khar zud </i>("black winter disaster") occurs when all the fodder has died as a result of little precipitation and harsh winds that turn the pastures black.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Tsagaan zud </i>("white winter disaster"), as one might guess, is the result of too much snow: the animals cannot get through to the vegetation underneath and are sometimes themselves buried under deep drifts.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i>Tuuvar zud </i>("trampled winter disaster") is mostly due to problems with herd and pasture management, as too many animals overuse and trample the pastureland to the extent that little or no food is left.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">In the 21st century several <i>zud </i>have been largely responsible for driving a huge influx of herding families from the countryside into Ulaanbaatar after the <i>zud </i>decimated their livelihoods. Many are of the opinion that a <i>zud </i>will strike this winter, although to my knowledge one has not yet been declared (the Mongolian government would declare a state of emergency in the event of a <i>zud</i>).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Mongolian winter has a special period called <i>yesun yes </i>(pronounced "YOU-sun YOUSS). <i><a href="http://mongol.undesten.mn/wiki/show/name/%D0%95%D1%81%D3%A9%D0%BD+%D0%B5%D1%81" target="_blank">Yesun yes</a></i>, </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">the nine-nine (81) coldest days of the year, begins on December 22nd. The 81 days are divided into three major sections - threes-of-nine - and each three-of-nine is subdivided into a nine-day period (1st nine through 9th nine). Each nine-day period has a different indicator, as you can see here: </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Yesun yes</i> or nine nines infographic courtesy of gogo.mn</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Here's my translatio</span><span class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">n:</span></div>
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<u>Infant or Baby three-of-nine</u><br />
12/22 - 12/30: home-made alcohol (nermel, or Mongolian milk-based moonshine) will freeze<br />
12/31 - 1/08: vodka or highly-distilled alcohol will freeze<br />
1/09 - 1/17: the horns of 3-year-old cattle will freeze and snap off</div>
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<u>Youth or Young three-of-nine</u><br />
1/18 - 1/26: the horns of 4-year-old cattle will freeze and snap off<br />
1/27 - 2/04: cooked rice won't freeze<br />
2/05 - 2/13: roads made by tire tracks will appear</div>
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<u>Old or Elder three-of-nine</u><br />
2/14 - 2/22: brown patches will appear on hilltops<br />
2/23 - 3/02: mud puddles will appear<br />
3/03 - 3/12: "normal" warmth returns<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">This post comes during the absolute coldest period of the nine nines: the sixth nine, when the horns of 4-year-old cattle freeze and snap off. The week's weather forecast for Ulaanbaatar predicts a low of -40C on Friday, the lowest yet this winter. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">In some ways, <i>yesun yes </i>is not strictly about winter. This is because many Mongolians reckon the end of winter and the beginning of spring is heralded by <i>tsagaan sar</i> (a holiday that I previously covered <a href="http://oldbonesandnewadventures.blogspot.com/2014/03/tsagaan-sar-its-most-wonderful-time-of.html" target="_blank">here</a>). Case in point: 2016 <i>tsagaan sar </i>will fall at the end of "middle" <i>esun es </i>(February 8th - 10th). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">Another phenomenon that is not only confined to winter is Ulaanbaatar's air quality problem. Beijing's <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2015/12/08/world/asia/beijing-pollution-red-alert.html?_r=0" target="_blank">air </a><a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-china-35129258" target="_blank">pollution </a>has bee</span>n making headlines over the last few weeks. But a comparison of real-time air pollution (PM2.5 converted to AQI) monitoring in <a href="http://aqicn.org/city/beijing/" target="_blank">Beijing </a>vs. <a href="http://agaar.mn/index" target="_blank">Ulaanbaatar</a>, it's unfortunately easy to see that Ulaanbaatar has the dubious distinction of breaking the red alert records of China's capital since monitoring ha<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">s begun. From the <a href="http://beijing.usembassy-china.org.cn/aqirecent3.html" target="_blank">US Embassy in Beijing</a>'s air pollution page: "<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18.6667px;">The U.S. EPA has developed a formula to convert PM 2.5 readings into an air quality index (AQI) value that can help inform health-related decisions. For </span></span><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; line-height: 18.6667px;">example, an AQI value of 50 represents good air quality with little potential to affect public health, while an AQI value over 300 represents hazardous air quality</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">". </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">I cannot state absolutely that Ulaanbaatar uses the same formula as the US EPA, the <a href="http://agaar.mn/index?lang=en" target="_blank">Ulaanbaatar air quality monitoring page</a> does use AQI and a breakdown of health effects for each AQI level. According to Ulaanbaatar's system, 401-500 AQI is High and poses "visible negative effects for general population's health". Compare that to actual AQI reading form this winter and realize that it's pretty much hazardous all the time. For example, around Christmas time </span>one of the city's monitoring stations reported PM2.5 levels around 2,000 and, in early January, at least one day saw a reading of <b><i>over 2,500</i></b> in the city. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Going outside without a pollution mask during winter in Ulaanbaatar </td></tr>
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Anyone who will be in Ulaanbaatar between mid-October and mid- or late March will need to be prepared for the terrible air quality in the city. While air pollution is not an issue elsewhere in the country, the circumstances in Ulaanbaatar for almost half the calendar year are challenging at best, lethal at worst; the World Health Organization has ranked Ulaanbaatar as the <a href="http://lists.monstersandcritics.com/amazing-worlds/most-polluted-cities/" target="_blank">second most polluted city</a> <i>in the world </i>due to this seasonal air pollution. <a href="http://projects.aljazeera.com/2015/12/mongolia-maternal-health/" target="_blank">One </a>in 10 deaths in the capital are due to the sky-rocketing levels of particulate matter in the air, despite the fact that the toxic pollution levels only occur in the cold months. The rampant burning of coal has led to poor maternal health, birth defects, miscarriage, asthma, lung cancer, and a host of other diseases. Sadly, most residents of Ulaanbaatar do not wear effective pollution masks and few have any effective methods of combating the omnipresent poison in the air.<br />
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Most of the air pollution is due to burning low-quality coal in the <i>ger </i>districts that ring the city center, as the cold weather forces folks to stay warm by any means possible. Since Ulaanbaatar sits in a kind of basin formed by hills and low mountains around the Tuul River, the smoke and smog hang over the whole city without relief. Worse still, just because the smoke and smog seem less visible on some winter days doesn't mean that the air quality is acceptable; the sky is only relatively less toxic. Many a night and even some days in wintertime UB are like walking through a tire fire. <br />
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Anecdotally, this is my third winter in Ulaanbaatar and I feel a noticeable turn for the worse; I can't back this up with numbers, as I don't have access to air quality data from 2014 and 2013, but some things really stand out. A number of friends have commented that their hair is falling out, I and a number of friends have reported high levels of pervasive general fatigue, the number of smokey <i>days </i>seems to have jumped (especially days of thick smoke that obscure visibility even during the warmest hours), and I've been having more headaches this winter than previous winters.<br />
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Moving onto a happier note, the rest of Mongolia in winter can be stunning:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">January in Terelj National Park</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Best way to see Mongolia in winter: racing along a frozen river in a dog sled!</td></tr>
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The deep freeze of Mongolian winter turns lakes and rivers into roads for more than dog sleds. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A one-horse open sleigh - just like the Christmas carol!</td></tr>
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The end of winter and beginning of spring are marked by <i>Tsagaan Sar </i>(lit. "white moon" or "white month"), the lunar new year. The dates obviously change each year but see my <a href="http://oldbonesandnewadventures.blogspot.com/2014/03/tsagaan-sar-its-most-wonderful-time-of.html" target="_blank">2014 post</a> on the holiday for more details. <i>Tsagaan Sar </i>usually falls in February and thus coincides with the beginning of lambing (<i>khuraglakh </i>/ хургалах) and kidding (<i>ishiglekh </i>/ ишиглэх) season.<br />
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SPRING:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">March in Central Mongolia: not exactly the gentle springtime one might expect...</td></tr>
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Contrary to a Westerner's expectations, spring is considered Mongolia's worst season. Most North Americans associate spring with blooming flowers and singing birds. Springtime is thus synonymous with good times; not so in Mongolia. <i>Havryn syndrom </i>- spring syndrome or spring sickness - strikes at the individual and collective levels. Spring syndrome is blamed for violent passions, fatigue, and a variety of health problems in Mongolia: spring is the season of intense puppy love, riots, and political protests. While I personally suffer quite a bit during winter, it is primarily due to the air pollution; the cold is harsh but manageable. On the other hand, I've gone through two bouts of 'spring syndrome' that left me struggling with lethargy and moody spirits.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A newborn calf looks on as its mother eats the afterbirth in Ar Janchivlan, Tuv province. We happened upon this little scene just shortly after the calf's debut into this world early last May.</td></tr>
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The received wisdom is that the intense weather fluctuations that characterize Mongolian springtime generate such problems. A Mongolian spring day can easily start with a sunny warm morning, followed by gale-force windstorms sweeping dust, grit, and sand into every nook and cranny, topped off by mixed hail and rain that turns to snow in the evening. Spring is traditionally the hardest season for herders and their flocks to endure. Animals coming out of a Mongolian winter are at their leanest, their least healthy, and yet spring is the season when sheep and goats (February-March), cattle (usually March-April, but can be as early as the end of February and as late as early May), camels (mid-March to the beginning of May), and horses (April-May) give birth. Scarcity of food, weakened physical state, and the pressures of lambing, kidding, calfing (тугалах / <i>tugalakh</i>), camel foaling (ботголох / <i>botoglokh</i>) and foaling (унагалах / <i>unaglakh</i>) make spring a season of struggle.<br />
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SUMMER:<br />
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Of course summer is the season in Mongolia that I know best. For me summer is the time for adventure in Mongolia: archaeological excavations, field expeditions, and jaunts into the splendor of rural Mongolia hold almost every charm that nature can provide. One has only to look over past blog posts for positive proof of that! As of writing I've spent all or parts of nine summers in Mongolia, making me a truly fortunate person. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgank-Eps1xNOCt5_TuE1x6J6Vbjj2TZVZxJcY7sC6HS7TO18d-DGK4KfDkxUBc-kqkEYzi4KnkFwqJXMOtSzBwH0xvhOL96UBoazd7ZTL-MZUWddDicLAnU2W_ky4T3BdzlDMRQtph9Dc/s1600/2005_me+overlooking+Tamiryn+Ulaan+Khoshuu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgank-Eps1xNOCt5_TuE1x6J6Vbjj2TZVZxJcY7sC6HS7TO18d-DGK4KfDkxUBc-kqkEYzi4KnkFwqJXMOtSzBwH0xvhOL96UBoazd7ZTL-MZUWddDicLAnU2W_ky4T3BdzlDMRQtph9Dc/s640/2005_me+overlooking+Tamiryn+Ulaan+Khoshuu.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from 2005...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFJ2v1HvTId2DzlbQTeE0AwAXxRe3KWjL7Xjxg3I3MWwqM5Q20O184-Hnr-amPNtHEwooIKd9a7Mz4QjWHQqGHK_HDTzWmO4rksmdfIU8REPEwC1gpMZ4kWKVgsIjQFY5Cvs59MvdWYqI/s1600/DSC03770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFJ2v1HvTId2DzlbQTeE0AwAXxRe3KWjL7Xjxg3I3MWwqM5Q20O184-Hnr-amPNtHEwooIKd9a7Mz4QjWHQqGHK_HDTzWmO4rksmdfIU8REPEwC1gpMZ4kWKVgsIjQFY5Cvs59MvdWYqI/s640/DSC03770.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...is just as spectacular as the view from 2015</td></tr>
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A visitor to Mongolia should respect the overpowering heat of summer just as much as the harsh cold of winter. On several different occasions I've had sunstroke during a Mongolian summer and have seen some truly spectacular sunburns on the ill-prepared. The high altitude creates an intensity of sunlight that is hard to convey with mere words. Mongolians Mongolia's hottest temperatures occur in summer, reaching over 90F in UB and up to 100F in the South Gobi during the height of the season. Oddly, the heaviest rains also occur during summer, usually in June and July, although Mongolia receives very little annual precipitation overall. Summer is the height of tourist season, which is often centered around <i>Naadam</i>, the annual summer festival about which I've written <a href="http://oldbonesandnewadventures.blogspot.com/2015/07/national-naadam-2015-march-of-nine.html" target="_blank">several </a><a href="http://oldbonesandnewadventures.blogspot.com/2015/07/naadam-2015-arkhust-adventure.html" target="_blank">times</a>. <br />
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Summer is undoubtedly the best time for Mongolia's glorious, short-lived wildflowers. I have never seen such a riotous, stunning array of purples as among the wildflowers of the <i>khangai</i>. <br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinE8Ykksp2NMtpfAxXZBeMFUdtB8atc5GYtuqPfvDP6qoKjIDLpsFEkwwfFZhl__65QqeVjH0UBeE6A3fjPIUwmLTzE9xmPfMoC8PVJImnvc0MQ20MkEMubJpEUfxmF-WwsPaw7Tkyfz8/s1600/Trip+3+-+Khentii+Bayan+Gol+wildflowers+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinE8Ykksp2NMtpfAxXZBeMFUdtB8atc5GYtuqPfvDP6qoKjIDLpsFEkwwfFZhl__65QqeVjH0UBeE6A3fjPIUwmLTzE9xmPfMoC8PVJImnvc0MQ20MkEMubJpEUfxmF-WwsPaw7Tkyfz8/s640/Trip+3+-+Khentii+Bayan+Gol+wildflowers+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">A carpet of brilliant flowers in the hills of Khentii province</td></tr>
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Last but certainly not least: the long, lingering sunset of a Mongolian summer has no equal.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpos20sWN8611LXj6CGdts-1-qgDwFrSXnS_5feYflZj9J3rjAQdeIOCGAx7ha-3xxoJs7zWuYHQI7Njbcel-LBxeALtic_Xio7XYjxU5O6L_0SfxuPI04_dZRwiiircf24hJLJAefUE8/s1600/Trip+2+-+Valley+S+from+Dashinchilen+to+Khogno+Khan+Khiid+sunset+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpos20sWN8611LXj6CGdts-1-qgDwFrSXnS_5feYflZj9J3rjAQdeIOCGAx7ha-3xxoJs7zWuYHQI7Njbcel-LBxeALtic_Xio7XYjxU5O6L_0SfxuPI04_dZRwiiircf24hJLJAefUE8/s640/Trip+2+-+Valley+S+from+Dashinchilen+to+Khogno+Khan+Khiid+sunset+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Southern Bulgan province in the afterglow of the setting sun</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujA5i8hl3_XTqhaelBnh3lyolOZ3HS1r046fg1gz6avocEJKZSpJy87KW8KpprueavyV2ZC0fyG_WA5RDKij9VJISChqd7uvotvgx9dhohws3UFv2Opujc_84UBl_ldynHx9oHAEPoRU/s1600/RP15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgujA5i8hl3_XTqhaelBnh3lyolOZ3HS1r046fg1gz6avocEJKZSpJy87KW8KpprueavyV2ZC0fyG_WA5RDKij9VJISChqd7uvotvgx9dhohws3UFv2Opujc_84UBl_ldynHx9oHAEPoRU/s640/RP15.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset over the temple roofs at Erdene Zuu monastery</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxWFDLK91Tqzo-65b56fBYnGzoYpL0tVg9CAE-V5RA_DKeaYaMUJy_UiJmemUe1WU4IaYdeaX_xrtCm44Skc4xVxRn7NigOZrlnmFDslgdnyr-3Q3spt-0_qWhzAu6APs2xYGMMcbnMAs/s1600/2010_Survey2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxWFDLK91Tqzo-65b56fBYnGzoYpL0tVg9CAE-V5RA_DKeaYaMUJy_UiJmemUe1WU4IaYdeaX_xrtCm44Skc4xVxRn7NigOZrlnmFDslgdnyr-3Q3spt-0_qWhzAu6APs2xYGMMcbnMAs/s640/2010_Survey2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spectacular sunset in the <i>khangai</i> region</td></tr>
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Each of Mongolia's seasons has its own joys, challenges, and beauties. Contrary to appearances, Mongolia's environment is fragile, full of rare flora and fauna as well as delicate ecological balances. Unfortunately, global climate change and desertification may be changing the shape of the seasons and the rhythms of the weather, upsetting the traditional knowledge that generations of herders have accumulated in order to thrive in this lovely, harsh country. The threats come from changes in weather (and other sources), rather than the longstanding extremes that characterize Mongolia's seasons. Can Mongolia weather the coming storms?<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-874018992881724822015-10-22T04:27:00.000-07:002016-04-07T22:13:04.915-07:00Kheavenly Khentii brings khappiness: a short August adventure in picturesThe western portions of Khentii Province are some of my favorite parts of Mongolia. In August a small group of adventurers journeyed through the winding valleys, mountain passes, and marshy floodplains in search of archaeology, history, and birds. Here is our story in pictures:<br />
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[My thanks to Karolina, Robyn, and Marie for sharing their lovely photos!]<br />
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<u><b>Day 1:</b></u><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IJYICWV_NUQhzRKt5pa6I_cqCfoqkoyzSOgGKMQ8e6qhbD3sIyKgjLVPUg_uwrOIkddIKumc4TVqBs7feqtkAAEhZWXZbsXW60ypnvwQCtDe7tUDXaEo7oY0fLFNw2HhLVDCYiLuG8w/s1600/DSC03578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IJYICWV_NUQhzRKt5pa6I_cqCfoqkoyzSOgGKMQ8e6qhbD3sIyKgjLVPUg_uwrOIkddIKumc4TVqBs7feqtkAAEhZWXZbsXW60ypnvwQCtDe7tUDXaEo7oY0fLFNw2HhLVDCYiLuG8w/s640/DSC03578.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">On the road in beautiful Khentii</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS8VsrilYLK9H2hrZ8D8dW-KYNNQ94s44jRayVptiW3KcLihwwu6ilM7zvh1gQAQ_E7ixFX4dzZ2LB1J2IAqH1Lyc3Kzkuiqz38feI-shUUb8R767rwEhmGdwaNvuKWOTmU-Bc5jIdjnc/s1600/DSC03586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS8VsrilYLK9H2hrZ8D8dW-KYNNQ94s44jRayVptiW3KcLihwwu6ilM7zvh1gQAQ_E7ixFX4dzZ2LB1J2IAqH1Lyc3Kzkuiqz38feI-shUUb8R767rwEhmGdwaNvuKWOTmU-Bc5jIdjnc/s640/DSC03586.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Stopped at a burial on the way to Khukh Lake</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLeNS10Xdt17HS-FyL9sQVMYlB8Q1HyZ4M3zmAl0VeAoRZW-2mBRzV7lgbLvaPuUWU6DfXicnn-IEzHAKAQ7_lxBIN1UP1iNBnajqUTbCWk4MU2-QdOuB5bXjAh2xD8y-55vfiwZwdhU/s1600/DSC03589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLeNS10Xdt17HS-FyL9sQVMYlB8Q1HyZ4M3zmAl0VeAoRZW-2mBRzV7lgbLvaPuUWU6DfXicnn-IEzHAKAQ7_lxBIN1UP1iNBnajqUTbCWk4MU2-QdOuB5bXjAh2xD8y-55vfiwZwdhU/s640/DSC03589.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Standing on the central mound of a robbed <i>khirigsuur</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnlQ98SwTJ9D45veZcSrFTXANbL1d0-SU03g049qtxjdFUcqnm3jidda5Ssd1vQVr9bHEOtg5g67jD2fzsnum7zBVL1NOzPiN4q1CzPnVi7By2MmFoPgRWq9k-dqC-bh1zmByccYzlnZo/s1600/DSC03600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnlQ98SwTJ9D45veZcSrFTXANbL1d0-SU03g049qtxjdFUcqnm3jidda5Ssd1vQVr9bHEOtg5g67jD2fzsnum7zBVL1NOzPiN4q1CzPnVi7By2MmFoPgRWq9k-dqC-bh1zmByccYzlnZo/s640/DSC03600.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Khukh Lake</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-MS2uPxquWXaXMAH6tfyE2AxKgz8MV5svCFCI8QbKEfqOyUCRHh3F86uq3sbdOBy-rIbQf1VDiCwEgnJpUAaaAyPp5jvFWAqfAZKlELX66WZulpUgJnmCeiIl6jEOHTcmny0pEmLdOK0/s1600/Robyn_Medieval+burial+or+slabs+w+carvings+near+Olympic+Camp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-MS2uPxquWXaXMAH6tfyE2AxKgz8MV5svCFCI8QbKEfqOyUCRHh3F86uq3sbdOBy-rIbQf1VDiCwEgnJpUAaaAyPp5jvFWAqfAZKlELX66WZulpUgJnmCeiIl6jEOHTcmny0pEmLdOK0/s640/Robyn_Medieval+burial+or+slabs+w+carvings+near+Olympic+Camp.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Honestly I am not exactly sure what this site is. But it's exciting!</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHqKvMolXEFWvxRvGHf42BZND9dmRNi6udKVDbCvWN99pk4YdrHsk4V0nI2FXCImqzz17j7Tb_xn_a6jmkmYtZIVd9GlJSlB7c8ce7UPs5u4WunGl93FOV0zSqqyF5FFfUDsvBrJf-rew/s1600/DSC03619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHqKvMolXEFWvxRvGHf42BZND9dmRNi6udKVDbCvWN99pk4YdrHsk4V0nI2FXCImqzz17j7Tb_xn_a6jmkmYtZIVd9GlJSlB7c8ce7UPs5u4WunGl93FOV0zSqqyF5FFfUDsvBrJf-rew/s640/DSC03619.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A gentle golden evening just over the hill from Bayan Gol</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Some of Davaajaa's herds at sunset</span><br />
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<u><b>Day 2:</b></u><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifaSmyUKZsAvbV4v0LMBZBD_HxpCSJ-9ygIERKEfdhpN46CvL_pHcWWB3aV03Zcl5BCNw7PjsFRPUT_LkQsdtMm0fiDWfX41pocKOlSq6YMlpE36U4aBrZXY49bgn_khKC2TLMIFbf6bY/s1600/DSC03649.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifaSmyUKZsAvbV4v0LMBZBD_HxpCSJ-9ygIERKEfdhpN46CvL_pHcWWB3aV03Zcl5BCNw7PjsFRPUT_LkQsdtMm0fiDWfX41pocKOlSq6YMlpE36U4aBrZXY49bgn_khKC2TLMIFbf6bY/s640/DSC03649.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Khangal Lake</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPLRrbB-3OzH3wKPkLkAjtqvzT9xg5sxCANKfqyBReh3a_R8SRe3zQXmOqchp8E54i-GmEgpVVSVxitoja2TghGXkjlX6dT-gQw-ugp2QjxA9Q-uqJWwDgLC1sHZcqTZqm1b2RizkXHA8/s1600/DSC03658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPLRrbB-3OzH3wKPkLkAjtqvzT9xg5sxCANKfqyBReh3a_R8SRe3zQXmOqchp8E54i-GmEgpVVSVxitoja2TghGXkjlX6dT-gQw-ugp2QjxA9Q-uqJWwDgLC1sHZcqTZqm1b2RizkXHA8/s640/DSC03658.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The mountain pass to Baldan Bereeven monastery</span></td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6W4M3Jh3xOlFGkq-kG7H_SiqO3yBJIAOOxX4PlIwYplDD9I0LUYpGTX3H39TTZJhPPAX85BmoHlZX_SAL1ECNrZ9coCJvCZOkux40etLsF8Hk4vGL5PFukZ5n6MGxTm9bz8aF4c9TF34/s1600/Robyn_Baldan+Bereeven3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6W4M3Jh3xOlFGkq-kG7H_SiqO3yBJIAOOxX4PlIwYplDD9I0LUYpGTX3H39TTZJhPPAX85BmoHlZX_SAL1ECNrZ9coCJvCZOkux40etLsF8Hk4vGL5PFukZ5n6MGxTm9bz8aF4c9TF34/s640/Robyn_Baldan+Bereeven3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The main temple at Baldan Bereeven monastery</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRCpC_Yjd90L0Cp_HDSKbsKXYhJZd9O7frLDGVFbn_zQpJAzbm8rbxyiufZWtENJ58N95Ahvkjm9nQGP-2f4dVtehr_v9ZhGEYGCh7JoQzvyFDPq26P6Si0yWeyM964IP950G8BGErtPc/s1600/DSC03676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRCpC_Yjd90L0Cp_HDSKbsKXYhJZd9O7frLDGVFbn_zQpJAzbm8rbxyiufZWtENJ58N95Ahvkjm9nQGP-2f4dVtehr_v9ZhGEYGCh7JoQzvyFDPq26P6Si0yWeyM964IP950G8BGErtPc/s640/DSC03676.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Whispering wishes into a sacred tree at Baldan Bereeven</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1B6BU_vbWUoUodP7j7mZveFFR_vWFagU8JggVBWAqQJqj27BK2DCBNP0C2YwmjpNjeoB_DWbC6ChUm_Fjrp0trphwpT0Zm8BsDWRj281Id_pJxKZm-kOr7E1n9KMsS2oEuwKXVhy0dZc/s1600/DSC03689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1B6BU_vbWUoUodP7j7mZveFFR_vWFagU8JggVBWAqQJqj27BK2DCBNP0C2YwmjpNjeoB_DWbC6ChUm_Fjrp0trphwpT0Zm8BsDWRj281Id_pJxKZm-kOr7E1n9KMsS2oEuwKXVhy0dZc/s640/DSC03689.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Caught in a devastating hailstorm on the way back to Bayan Gol - just look at our poor tents in the distance!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUac48vudPJ2xzdnUUGFttO1qCg0Td-4V-RapcqeC1jLJNneaEwc_4VBmVE-__2IVab3PnFRdIHO1SQfgCevJxAVFch3NpSkEN_1lmjYgl7cch6AK5xm4zfQNK-fpwrPRnQH7_9XnuId4/s1600/000011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUac48vudPJ2xzdnUUGFttO1qCg0Td-4V-RapcqeC1jLJNneaEwc_4VBmVE-__2IVab3PnFRdIHO1SQfgCevJxAVFch3NpSkEN_1lmjYgl7cch6AK5xm4zfQNK-fpwrPRnQH7_9XnuId4/s640/000011.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">After the hailstorm passed, Uutgaa and Tungaa joined us on a little bit of informal survey</td></tr>
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<u><b>Day 3:</b></u><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZsNTcxOYvAo0HdIu0RD4iQSYW6dhvsF9moLiPGg5RxMi0E9Kpyyb_NpnNdcJPEkXTK6ns_po6M3BeYJIuVtDtdIRBZNxIpzlZLS2IeIK9qp0Yi-KNO3MZSSgwvj-rFwFXdr3U4xwbIM/s1600/000019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWZsNTcxOYvAo0HdIu0RD4iQSYW6dhvsF9moLiPGg5RxMi0E9Kpyyb_NpnNdcJPEkXTK6ns_po6M3BeYJIuVtDtdIRBZNxIpzlZLS2IeIK9qp0Yi-KNO3MZSSgwvj-rFwFXdr3U4xwbIM/s640/000019.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Group photo with Davaajaa and his family at their summer encampment in Bayan Gol</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXnFfi5oXXQyUmWL5vd-l9GIREDsmx7LOCMiuQl3vm58D1f4glE_BCeCHQL1oB89DZ3bODc5Pk6jDBjkz16hYc7ajZlP57yMGgmWT9D-iQF7u-b_jeXaK9O8spuzVACQtywPaBVSH7v1k/s1600/Jargalant+khirigsuur.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXnFfi5oXXQyUmWL5vd-l9GIREDsmx7LOCMiuQl3vm58D1f4glE_BCeCHQL1oB89DZ3bODc5Pk6jDBjkz16hYc7ajZlP57yMGgmWT9D-iQF7u-b_jeXaK9O8spuzVACQtywPaBVSH7v1k/s640/Jargalant+khirigsuur.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Massive <i>khirigsuur </i>east of Davaajaa's <i>zuslan</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0VL_iZMPrmWRDFrFxQiMvs5cnsyjH54jgkos9rWSErWt3wdQzqZJMRKIRCUsf10ZHvwODRKtifVqGw3JRe0u35mBFifnegohck-C6Ngo1S6j2V2aJt7JoPmQJlH2nmiWEKnvs__7icAA/s1600/Jargalant+deer+stone+%2526+slab+burials+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0VL_iZMPrmWRDFrFxQiMvs5cnsyjH54jgkos9rWSErWt3wdQzqZJMRKIRCUsf10ZHvwODRKtifVqGw3JRe0u35mBFifnegohck-C6Ngo1S6j2V2aJt7JoPmQJlH2nmiWEKnvs__7icAA/s640/Jargalant+deer+stone+%2526+slab+burials+2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Checking out a deer stone and slab burial complex in Jargalant</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif3mew1mRDYB13Ch3aZbegdr9UEbd62hkQMgOUN3g74CvZiRzmzXo5uJxO3QqBVhNn551vVjuOBwyPmNfwxlKglJXPaAMe5tv8qywRzPHXyU8g2q8FaOk6g-LO7bfBGdLvvTCP2ULi4ps/s1600/DSC03715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif3mew1mRDYB13Ch3aZbegdr9UEbd62hkQMgOUN3g74CvZiRzmzXo5uJxO3QqBVhNn551vVjuOBwyPmNfwxlKglJXPaAMe5tv8qywRzPHXyU8g2q8FaOk6g-LO7bfBGdLvvTCP2ULi4ps/s640/DSC03715.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Very impressive slab burial with my wingspan for scale</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhtZPcEIfHD1ImVO6meGCbF7wAWirPJNPxIB8xVFDlb3kYQX-fBHMZ7nz2MzWTrTgG8TldVMZ5LnVDHh_ZkqPozjj2fMxp0-EwDC8CumOMre2KarRkHSgwLGrHqq1UUj7pVgbUaC2jYU/s1600/DSC03724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhtZPcEIfHD1ImVO6meGCbF7wAWirPJNPxIB8xVFDlb3kYQX-fBHMZ7nz2MzWTrTgG8TldVMZ5LnVDHh_ZkqPozjj2fMxp0-EwDC8CumOMre2KarRkHSgwLGrHqq1UUj7pVgbUaC2jYU/s640/DSC03724.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Rolling up to Rashaan Khad</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2hTUdHIa8kWeNEQEPgx8eiiIH50aM6XptV68EGmVhFeLpICqVAJBgQ9bof_QXoEPszT0dBZOeXCzrDyF_wzPRai17EY1mA-95wT0JoNhwLaoiuaDAS-vUkUI5MrXsTWkqKTmfOoAKGE/s1600/DSC03752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy2hTUdHIa8kWeNEQEPgx8eiiIH50aM6XptV68EGmVhFeLpICqVAJBgQ9bof_QXoEPszT0dBZOeXCzrDyF_wzPRai17EY1mA-95wT0JoNhwLaoiuaDAS-vUkUI5MrXsTWkqKTmfOoAKGE/s640/DSC03752.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Khadag </i>at an <i>ovoo </i>site near Rashaan Khad</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7LKdrTmyKtHNg3qfdTqFUYFrFpbciDOOgBR1sFpjEJJWmYonjIDkM8DlTHvgO_20XaYhw4QqKYwuIECE41ajWLylVwoGwas2eCRkkiGidtB4760SgfEHrHYDKB47FiR0Vn7INHvfVrT8/s1600/DSC03758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7LKdrTmyKtHNg3qfdTqFUYFrFpbciDOOgBR1sFpjEJJWmYonjIDkM8DlTHvgO_20XaYhw4QqKYwuIECE41ajWLylVwoGwas2eCRkkiGidtB4760SgfEHrHYDKB47FiR0Vn7INHvfVrT8/s640/DSC03758.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Close-up of <i>khadag </i>and prayer flags in the wind</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDcDTbzhr2gl_8C2rn9yKbtJQItGVfi3ilvS5bgtaPn048fyb9lNJn2FnCrseCeqEPP4l7ZbZY1risTFPCT-aWXvp1zkC7QUjeBBqs_OEHglmuL3uXf_jMwj1kyGtoxTB7d54-aWf9qw/s1600/DSC03785.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIDcDTbzhr2gl_8C2rn9yKbtJQItGVfi3ilvS5bgtaPn048fyb9lNJn2FnCrseCeqEPP4l7ZbZY1risTFPCT-aWXvp1zkC7QUjeBBqs_OEHglmuL3uXf_jMwj1kyGtoxTB7d54-aWf9qw/s640/DSC03785.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">The view from just inside the lower wall at Uglugchiin Kherem</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha0YEA8FWGZH9tM9awOp3KFYVp3J0z-8jhWZEoBzcsQmtYwpUUFcjb8LkWZoHdZxOAQ7QjaQ_BSB_5xkweKiVBgifS1CIxOoseHcn5LiytSv70UatcCwfsEo73pJaRLrLzhxC_Av8kOuU/s1600/DSC03777.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha0YEA8FWGZH9tM9awOp3KFYVp3J0z-8jhWZEoBzcsQmtYwpUUFcjb8LkWZoHdZxOAQ7QjaQ_BSB_5xkweKiVBgifS1CIxOoseHcn5LiytSv70UatcCwfsEo73pJaRLrLzhxC_Av8kOuU/s640/DSC03777.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Karolina at the top of Uglugchiin Kherem</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2WqOIaWSfExax5tq5jz_fAjCJxJT5qasoB_1gAoPk8TyedfTuojLRL6wPbiX8oBDTXB9Qgoe1tVqxNirwhwcSkLm1JCMSt2O9gcpBebCrLqPleSpqEsOxjgfD2y9ilagbmgkJiUsoyxk/s1600/Robyn_Khurkh+Gol1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2WqOIaWSfExax5tq5jz_fAjCJxJT5qasoB_1gAoPk8TyedfTuojLRL6wPbiX8oBDTXB9Qgoe1tVqxNirwhwcSkLm1JCMSt2O9gcpBebCrLqPleSpqEsOxjgfD2y9ilagbmgkJiUsoyxk/s640/Robyn_Khurkh+Gol1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Setting up camp on our way to Umnudelger</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlKWQO2XMKqfToaGRavVNOrdrXEyE4UwMo442tq3wVk5cjf_iGsynERu9vFvIAWWZOVS_tIrMAO2I3_d_FxqqZcE4BO-vTlirchBwlW4eBjuq9zY9pegy1jwwvmvVh5huJ75uIdliJG2w/s1600/DSC03800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlKWQO2XMKqfToaGRavVNOrdrXEyE4UwMo442tq3wVk5cjf_iGsynERu9vFvIAWWZOVS_tIrMAO2I3_d_FxqqZcE4BO-vTlirchBwlW4eBjuq9zY9pegy1jwwvmvVh5huJ75uIdliJG2w/s640/DSC03800.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Full moon over the Khurkh River</span></td></tr>
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<br />
<br />
<u><b>Day 4:</b></u><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTpETqHWIbE_q-B9EcBtL6K8p5vHmKVMFqykQXQuQOXbB_DQfWyT7lgVBV9hOeeWZf_1p-t7iafKf6yYSNcpUPT90QC2D-FRAraI9n_S9s5ESb82Zd_qPF0IK341jx-qMtR8Zd9a_H1JE/s1600/Robyn_Cinereous+vulture.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTpETqHWIbE_q-B9EcBtL6K8p5vHmKVMFqykQXQuQOXbB_DQfWyT7lgVBV9hOeeWZf_1p-t7iafKf6yYSNcpUPT90QC2D-FRAraI9n_S9s5ESb82Zd_qPF0IK341jx-qMtR8Zd9a_H1JE/s640/Robyn_Cinereous+vulture.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cinerous vulture enjoying the morning sunshine</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDYDYUYOFI7bbrnuLmuc5NMaLUoD-Q3PRWQyveqBdlv09ZqXlEar4NG2ypVJouKxikBCiAqt7GNUpfw8zbT4Snh3xEVo97YoGpqpGUC5daomxhwtH-6NJW8GDt6ooP8_HykH1rLNvOjRc/s1600/Robyn_Tengerleg+stuck+in+the+mud.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDYDYUYOFI7bbrnuLmuc5NMaLUoD-Q3PRWQyveqBdlv09ZqXlEar4NG2ypVJouKxikBCiAqt7GNUpfw8zbT4Snh3xEVo97YoGpqpGUC5daomxhwtH-6NJW8GDt6ooP8_HykH1rLNvOjRc/s640/Robyn_Tengerleg+stuck+in+the+mud.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Stuck in a marsh on our way to Jargaltkhaan - everybody push!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoocNIBFLc7ZehC9BcQjeHV9XOJk4a9bv5Tnooe_-YyBICOPXP4iCubh9DH-PVbebYtU0b2Xnz_DK0Bg1AqIhFghw6lAqM3y0mcRINeePMMa7MLuqdDD15W7ug7vdFPfzz6gM_7XPgnkA/s1600/DSC03808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoocNIBFLc7ZehC9BcQjeHV9XOJk4a9bv5Tnooe_-YyBICOPXP4iCubh9DH-PVbebYtU0b2Xnz_DK0Bg1AqIhFghw6lAqM3y0mcRINeePMMa7MLuqdDD15W7ug7vdFPfzz6gM_7XPgnkA/s640/DSC03808.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Looking for rocks in the marsh to wedge under the tires of our <i>furgong</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxxoP7zVZh4s7JcuuEro2bB696DJdECBjspp9lAu-XZRj62wQaJzLEgeMgRzChaPSbVTy8SMiY4p0LV7mGwvk1f5NwQsP9tueDvTfBKRemBO4G6o5Kwdjn_kQ6WnehCLi7ROL1NlreWSo/s1600/DSC03817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxxoP7zVZh4s7JcuuEro2bB696DJdECBjspp9lAu-XZRj62wQaJzLEgeMgRzChaPSbVTy8SMiY4p0LV7mGwvk1f5NwQsP9tueDvTfBKRemBO4G6o5Kwdjn_kQ6WnehCLi7ROL1NlreWSo/s640/DSC03817.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: x-small;">We did it! Back on dry land and ready for our return drive to UB</span></td></tr>
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Given our whirlwind four days in 2015 and my 2014 reconnaissance expedition, I'd like to propose a new provincial slogan to any and all tourism agencies, government offices, and public relations firms in Khentii:<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
"Khentii <i>aimag</i>: come for the archaeology, stay for the adventure!"<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-31550819442139468432015-10-17T03:18:00.000-07:002015-10-17T03:18:14.329-07:00Mongolia Inside & Out 105: What (not) to wearWelcome back to the Mongolia Inside & Out series! This post will focus on appearance and dress in Mongolia, as I've found it too difficult to tease apart the more abstract concept and the more concrete practice when it comes to talking about what (not) to wear here.<br />
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A version of this post has been sitting in my drafts folder for several months. I realized recently that I had wasted a lot of time and energy writing a very judge-y indictment of the fashion choices of other foreigners in Mongolia, which is simply not the tone I want to take in this series nor how I want to interact with my fellow human beings. Sure, it can be cathartic or amusing to recall Mongolian friends' and colleagues' reactions to white-guy dreadlocks, or to bemoan the American journalist who wore rumpled hiking clothes to a one-on-one formal interview with the President of Mongolia. But that's the stuff of summer evening carp-sessions at a beer garden with other expats, not fodder for a series where I aim to provide useful information and hard-won experience for those coming to Mongolia for study, adventure, or permanent relocation. I prefer to use my knowledge for good in this series.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And, just like Cookie, I learned those things the hard way</td></tr>
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Let me offer some recommendations for several distinct sets of 'foreigners' coming to Mongolia, because where and how you plan to spend your time will dictate what you want to wear:<br />
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<u>Intrepid traveler:</u><br />
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You've come to gallivant about the countryside, bask in the glory of Mongolia's natural beauty, and have some life-changing adventures. More power to you! You'll want to come packed for all four seasons, even if you're coming in summer time, because Mongolia's weather is both extreme and unpredictable. Layers are your friend! Prioritize undies and socks over outwear - you can wear one or two sweaters and one or two pairs of pants for your entire trip. Coverage is key; the sun here is unbelievably harsh and the wind will blow grim and grit all over you, drying you out and making your skin crack and peel. Bring or buy here a hat with a brim and/or a lightweight scarf to cover yourself. Even taking the wild steppe wind into consideration, a giant hat will serve you well.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#bighatnoheart</td></tr>
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Some folks bring a pashmina or long travel skirt, which doubles as a light-weight blanket and screen for using a "steppe toilet" (use your imagination). If you plan to spend even one day in Ulaanbaatar, consider packing one presentable outfit in order to blend in with the fashion-conscious citizens of UB. Shoes always take up a lot of room in one's luggage, so prioritize a pair of hiking boots and a pair of sandals. Those who are planning to do any horseback riding should seriously consider bringing chaps or proper riding boots. You can buy traditional leather Mongolian-style riding boots for $35-50 at Narantuul. This style of shoe is designed for the wearer to wrap his/her feet with additional fabric or to wear several pairs of socks; keep that in mind when trying on boots here. Narantuul is also an excellent place to buy inexpensive socks, mittens, hats, scarves, and leggings made of camel or goat cashmere, yak wool, or regular sheep's wool.<br />
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<u>Summer student or researcher:</u><br />
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You'll enjoy the best of both worlds by spending some time in UB but also escaping to the countryside at least once during your summer in Mongolia. I have been you many times in the past. Back in the days when I spent my entire summers on field projects in the countryside, I would pack like an 'intrepid traveler'; I recommend that you do the same. However, if you will be doing research or studying partly in Ulaanbaatar, you will face the practical downside of packing for <i>both</i> field and city, plus whatever research equipment you'll need to bring along. But how are you going to fit all of that into your inevitably-limited luggage space?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sure, just pack wisely</td></tr>
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Pro-tips: 1) bring things that roll up or pack down well, 2) allow yourself to pack more 'small' things (underwear, socks, sports bras, tank tops) but only one or two of each type of 'larger' clothing (sweater, rain coat, field pants, jeans, dress), 3) find a way to do laundry or hand-wash your clothes regularly (everything dries incredibly quickly in Mongolia) to cut down on the number of each item you need to bring, 4) wear your largest/heaviest shoes and bulkiest clothes on the plane or train, 5) stuff socks and underwear inside your shoes when packing a bag or suitcase, and 6) don't bring a puffy or down jacket (it will take up too much room and you probably won't need it).<br />
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In addition to a scaled-down version of the intrepid traveler's gear, you need some UB-appropriate attire. This includes at least one pair of nice dress shoes - I am NOT kidding, this is important - and one business casual outfit for any formal meetings. These shoes should be presentable but allow you to safely navigate the treacherous streets, sidewalks, and construction zones of Ulaanbaatar, a subject I will address in greater detail in a future Mongolian Inside & Out post on health and safety in Mongolia. <br />
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You'll be more comfortable walking around UB, making contacts and friends, and visiting museums, galleries, and stores if you're wearing clothes that at least gesture at current fashions. Pro-tip: do not wear a short skirt unless it is fitted close to the thigh! Long skirts or fitted skirts are your friends. The wind in UB will flip up your skirt when you least expect it, giving passers-by an unintentional peep show (ask me how I know!). <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But even more so :/</td></tr>
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<u>Relocating to Mongolia (UB in particular):</u><br />
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So you've decided to live and work in Mongolia for over six months. Welcome!<br />
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No matter where you hail from, your decision means planning in advance, because your options for clothing will probably be limited in terms of selection and quality. Bring a good-quality, nice-looking heavy winter jacket and extreme weather-rated insulated boots with good tread for icy, slippery winter streets. At a bare minimum you'll need a work/city wardrobe of 2-3 outfits, an outfit or two from the intrepid traveler's wardrobe, and some less formal but still presentable city clothes for weekends and hanging out.<br />
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Certainly you can go clothes shopping in UB; there are upscale boutique-like shops in multi-story malls and vendors' stalls in numerous markets. However, most clothes sold this way are imported and highly marked-up, especially considering that they are usually of only middling quality. Moreover, unless you have a slight build, you may struggle to find anything in your size (ask me how I know!). The bigger you are (especially if you are a woman), the harder it will be to buy clothes that fit. There are some gargantuan Mongolians - just look at the wrestlers - but most of the clothing in UB is imported from China and is laughably small for one of Valkyrie stock such as myself. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But there is no Sears in Mongolia!</td></tr>
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A few places have imports from Europe and Turkey, notably Grand Plaza on Peace Avenue near the Ramada Hotel, but your selection will be limited. Another challenge is that most places, especially the stalls in open-air markets or small boutiques, do not have fitting rooms. How anyone manages to buy pants that fit when they can't try them on is a mystery to me.<br />
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One option is to get clothing made. There are numerous tailors and seamstresses all over Ulaanbaatar and they charge relatively low prices for their work. I've had a fitted dress <i>deel </i>made: my Mongolian teacher connected me to her seamstress and helped me buy the fabric; the seamstress and I agreed on a pattern, price, and timeline; I went for several fittings; and now I have a truly gorgeous two-piece dress <i>deel</i>. My understanding is that most of these tailors and seamstresses are better for alterations, traditional clothing, and clothes made out of non-stretch fabric. You may also have my experience: being that tailor or seamstress' first foreign client, meaning that they may struggle a bit with fitting a non-Mongolian body type.<br />
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There is a very strange rumor going around that Mongolia is a conservative country when it comes to dress. In my experience, Mongolia is, in this respect, one of the least conservative countries one could come across, and its population is more fashion- and appearance-conscious than one might expect. You absolutely do not need to cover up for modesty's sake - unless, of course, you are visiting a monastery - and there's nothing wrong with 4-inch heels, a miniskirt, and a plunging neckline if you so desire (just look around the streets of UB!). As a foreigner, you may get more attention for this garb, but it's not because you're unseemly or breaking any cultural taboos. Grimy backpacker clothes will probably attract more negative attention than bare shoulders. [Note: some entitled asshole may harass you and you may feel like it wouldn't happen if you wore more conservative clothing; do what makes you feel safe and comfortable, but know that it's not your fault and that you can get sexually harassed even when wearing a giant winter coat and anti-pollution mask - ask me how I know...]<br />
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Speaking of anti-pollution masks, anyone planning to spend time in Ulaanbaatar between November and March should plan to wear an anti-pollution mask any time that they are outdoors in the city. [You should also bring an electronic air purifier for your apartment or plan to purchase one in UB. It must have a HEPA-grade filter in order to be effective at the level required by UB air pollution. I will devote a future post in the Mongolia Inside & Out series to health and safety in Mongolia, where I will give special attention to the air pollution crisis and personal management strategies. In the mean time, you can find out more about your best options in Mongolia through <a href="http://smartairfilters.com/mn" target="_blank">Smart Air Filters Mongolia</a>]<br />
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During winter Ulaanbaatar has the second-worst air pollution of any city <i>in the world</i>. Worse than Beijing! On bad days it is like walking through an endless tire fire, and the nights are always worse. You will need a mask that can filter out the smallest particles, as these are the most carcinogenic. Although designed for the Chinese context, <a href="http://aqicn.org/mask/" target="_blank">this page</a> compares available anti-pollution masks and lays out the biochemistry of urban air pollution. Personally I wear a <a href="http://respro.com/store/product/techno-mask" target="_blank">Respro Techno mask</a> whenever I am outside during winter, and I change the filter every 3-4 weeks to account for the amount of particulate matter that gets trapped in the filter each day. Currently several vendors distribute such masks in Ulaanbaatar, including the Respro line AKA the Bane masks. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bane: my UB winter style icon</td></tr>
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You will get stares when you wear your mask, maybe some laughs, yelps of surprise, and even frightened mutters. Your health is more important than blending in; wrapping a scarf around the lower portion of your face will attract less attention if you are feeling sensitive to others' reactions. More and more Mongolians in UB are wearing masks, although most are the largely-ineffective medical masks that do not filter out the carcinogenic particulate matter. Experts now estimate that 1 in 10 deaths in UB are related to the air pollution, as are the soaring rates of asthma, respiratory infection, birth defects, and lung disease in the capital. Two scholars - Chisato Fukuda and Christa Hasenkopf - study the effects of air pollution in Ulaanbaatar and I encourage you to check out their work. Ulaanbaatar now has an <a href="http://agaar.mn/index" target="_blank">interactive website</a> that tracks air pollution levels at several stations across the city. Anyone living in UB should definitely monitor these levels but, when in doubt, assume that the particulate levels are high enough that you should wear your mask. Plus, wearing an anti-pollution mask will keep your face warm in -40 weather!<br />
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<u>A few words on appearance beyond clothing:</u><br />
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-Tattoos probably won't get you any more grief than you already get from your grandmother. I've seen lots of hip young Mongolians with huge, elaborate tattoos, and a smattering of those from older generations (mostly men but some women) with less ostentatious tattoos as well. <br />
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-Facial piercings may get you some stares, especially a septum piercing (which will elicit comparisons to a yak, camel, or cow behind your back, ouch!). Your employer may ask you to take out your piercings, especially if you are working as a teacher. On the other hand, earrings are standard for women and a number of young guys in various subcultures sport them as well.<br />
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-Makeup is certainly not a requirement in Mongolia although the majority of Mongolian women and girls wear a lot of makeup in Ulaanbaatar. I now wear more makeup than at any point in my life, although this isn't entirely due to living in Mongolia (getting older, changing skin issues, etc.). On the other hand, I (and probably other foreign women) have gotten passive-aggressive feedback on my appearance when it comes to makeup. This mostly in the form of colleagues and friends making a point to tell me how nice I look when I wear full makeup, how much they like my makeup, and <a href="https://youtu.be/fyeTJVU4wVo" target="_blank">so forth</a>. Since I am a clumsy and unskilled makeup artist, this is well-intentioned indirect encouragement to get me to wear makeup everyday. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm right there with you, Tina</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
-Overall it's not a social faux-pas or masked slight in Mongolian to comment (even negatively) on someone's appearance the way it is in America. If you work in an office or teach in a classroom, you may get some comments that feel rude. While there are rude people everywhere, my experience is that this is a cultural difference that you can learn to navigate. My recommendation is to take those comments with a grain of salt and let them go whenever you have the spoons to do so. However, if you still feel bothered, find a way to explain to your friends and colleagues that, in your culture, comments about your appearance are considered inappropriate or hurtful. People with good intentions, in Mongolia as anywhere else, will usually respond well. <br />
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With that in mind, the more your appearance deviates from what is considered 'the norm', the more likely you are to hear about it. Plus, simply by virtue of being an obvious foreigner (especially if you are not of Asian descent), you will hear a variety of comments motivated by intentions good, bad, and downright baffling. You can't do much about people on the street; adults and teenagers are more likely to say something hurtful, but the (sometimes-hilarious) small children who blurt things out at you may be the most frequent commenters. Little children in UB have squealed or shouted all the following at me, usually amidst peals of laughter, in Mongolian:</div>
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-"foreigner", constantly<br />
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-"Russian", mostly when I wear my faux-fur trapper hat<br />
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-"Muslim", when I wrap a scarf around my face and head to hide my anti-pollution mask<br />
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-"blue ninja" (my heavy winter scarf is blue and can be wrapped several times around my entire head) in Mongolian <i>and in English</i>. This is hands-down my favorite and usually causes me to laugh along with them.<br />
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-"scary" (giant trapper hat + giant black coat + pollution mask + dark glasses = scary). They have a fair point...<br />
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-"Bane". Of course.<br />
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<u>Mongolian fashion and traditional apparel:</u><br />
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But enough about foreigners - what are Mongolians wearing these days? Lots of different things, as presentation and fashion are functions of age, gender, class, personal taste, and numerous other factors. I will point out some fashion highlights of Ulaanbaatar 2013-2015 just to set the scene. The single greatest motivation to get a smartphone in Ulaanbaatar is to surreptitiously record the amazing fashion, accessories, and hairstyles that the citizens sport on the streets every day. Since I have ethical qualms about taking someone's photo without their knowledge (and I'm poor), I haven't gotten a smartphone or started a campaign of guerrilla street fashion photography. But I admit that I am sorely tempted! <br />
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Let me paint a few pictures with words, describing as best as I can some personal favorite trends over the last 2+ years:<br />
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1) The statement T-shirts. There are so many legendary examples that I can't pick just one!<br />
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-"WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT?" guy. Block print, all-caps. What, indeed.<br />
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-"It's science, fool". Condescending and confrontational, like Professor Snape.<br />
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-"Don't touch me, my uncle is in the ARMY". Whoa, the ARMY? That sounds even more serious than the Army.<br />
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-Many, many iterations of "f*ck": in a sentence, stand alone, with an exclamation point, in all-caps. It's everyone's favorite English word!<br />
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2) Marijuana leaf hats worn by children under the age of 14. This was a hot trend (in my neighborhood, at least) in spring and summer 2014. For every adult male wearing a pot-leaf hat, I saw at least three little boys wearing a junior's version. Considering Mongolia's draconian drug laws, I'm betting that this was a case of widespread societal naivete. <br />
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3) Neon. Neon was IN during the winter of 2013: blinding pink, electric yellow, violent green. Did this happen in the US, too?<br />
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4) "Reindeer" fur boots. Some of these boots are legit reindeer fur, others are made from the coats of China's more unfortunate dogs :/<br />
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5) Drop crotch pants. I drafted a post about ultra-hip young dudes in UB and their drop crotch pants back in November 2013. That is how much that trend meant to me!<br />
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6) "My So-Called Life"<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr4iDIAMxIrQoqBQQk43fTP7luAd4JoFLQGhtH-KgjAhR90hvVuwnyrycu_3ywnQlf8gXu_x4PdDLevJ8vL81nG7_oGnKfGmTZMtLPjJY0xQ_2luq_ZHLl9j5GuPi43VWjnHoiAEV5cV0/s1600/my-so-called-life.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr4iDIAMxIrQoqBQQk43fTP7luAd4JoFLQGhtH-KgjAhR90hvVuwnyrycu_3ywnQlf8gXu_x4PdDLevJ8vL81nG7_oGnKfGmTZMtLPjJY0xQ_2luq_ZHLl9j5GuPi43VWjnHoiAEV5cV0/s400/my-so-called-life.jpg" width="270" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">You could do worse in terms of fashion inspiration</td></tr>
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The dream of the 90s may be alive in Portland, but the fashion of the 90s has been resurrected in UB to spectacular effect. The hipsters here look amazing in flannel, long lanky hair, loose-fitting stone-washed jeans, and combat boots. The next logical step in this evolution of fashion is clearly "Clueless":<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWj0fKV_ZtHgmhFrPBRkfuP9ZoThkbRSIRqz7rlabFIuPOITkXS4p3Ui8pbr3FrVO6zQU3BKPT_631KOYvVqqmA91ibaxGoqpWzFV-IzXu-UG7_gqhfSi2hyphenhyphenF6pANHc2HW6LDi72KJWR0/s1600/Clueless.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWj0fKV_ZtHgmhFrPBRkfuP9ZoThkbRSIRqz7rlabFIuPOITkXS4p3Ui8pbr3FrVO6zQU3BKPT_631KOYvVqqmA91ibaxGoqpWzFV-IzXu-UG7_gqhfSi2hyphenhyphenF6pANHc2HW6LDi72KJWR0/s400/Clueless.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still adorable 20-odd years later</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
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Let's take a moment to talk about the national dress of Mongolia, the <i>deel</i> (pronounced 'dell'). If one looks through archival photographs, early modern paintings, and the few medieval outfits preserved in caves and arid-climate burials, the historical continuity of the <i>deel</i> is readily apparent. But like with any garment, its particularities have changed with fashion trends; today there are a number of types of <i>deel</i> suited to different wearers and occasions, made out of different types of fabric, and tailored with different cuts and lengths.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJj4cI59ZoW6cRbrduAY-jWFfatc-GccJNEMPsaxNuUqq_gJb4meQSVcjkGeaQRFrCY4DBug5346K6YN5g4suef8F_qmuUfIwrm-49LjuOeZbmXoSPJ18agPJY1U39Eq8rugPVf58UHE0/s1600/Mens+deels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJj4cI59ZoW6cRbrduAY-jWFfatc-GccJNEMPsaxNuUqq_gJb4meQSVcjkGeaQRFrCY4DBug5346K6YN5g4suef8F_qmuUfIwrm-49LjuOeZbmXoSPJ18agPJY1U39Eq8rugPVf58UHE0/s640/Mens+deels.jpg" width="604" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three gentlemen in traditional mens' <i>deel</i> at the <i>danshig naadam </i>in July 2015 <br />
(photo courtesy of Reade L.)</td></tr>
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Unlike many other traditional outfits around the world, the <i>deel </i>is in many ways a unisex outfit. <i>Deel </i>colors are not gendered and therefore men in traditional outfits are not restricted to the narrow color palette of the Western patriarchy. Gentlemen rock deep magenta, Pepto-Bismol pink, shiny lavender, and peach <i>deel </i>at all ages. While elaborate dress <i>deel </i>for men may look rather different than women's formal dress <i>deel </i>(especially for fashionable young ladies in UB), couples can now get matching <i>deel </i>and traditional men's and women's <i>deel </i>are, to an inexpert eye, only distinguishable by the belt. The traditional belt is a long colorful piece of fabric, usually brilliant yellow or orange, coordinated with the color of the <i>deel. </i>A traditional men's belt is much longer than a women's and worn lower (below the waist), whereas the shorter women's belt is worn tighter and at the waist. Both men and women also wear a variety of leather belts; the men's is much thicker and often adorned with a large buckle and other silver decorations.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0zdIskQXLGG43Tc0e8BKWktAGCaert8fh1U2E_oen29_-tK7WI4K5g2nx6DiGUuzhpusgBduX7CEiAJe1WU0K8Z-LiydF2ADaguwVzRGh33QtlF4vgr7cyb5GXtCVdxWpAbAxiYzTw7c/s1600/Womens+deels.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0zdIskQXLGG43Tc0e8BKWktAGCaert8fh1U2E_oen29_-tK7WI4K5g2nx6DiGUuzhpusgBduX7CEiAJe1WU0K8Z-LiydF2ADaguwVzRGh33QtlF4vgr7cyb5GXtCVdxWpAbAxiYzTw7c/s400/Womens+deels.JPG" width="345" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Badamkhatan <i>egch </i>and I wore cashmere <i>deel</i> on <i>Shinii Gurvan</i>, <i>Tsagaan Sar </i>2014</td></tr>
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Hats are extremely important in traditional Mongolian society. Donning a full outfit for <i>Naadam</i>, <i>Tsagaan Sar</i>, or a significant event or ceremony necessitates a hat be worn. When Mongolians conduct official greetings and gift exchanges - particularly during <i>Tsagaan Sar</i> - both parties must wear hats. A complete wrestler's outfit (see below) includes a very particular kind of hat full of symbolism; the treatment of a wrestler's hat - worn into the ring, plucked off the wrestler's head by a coach or referee, held carefully for the entirety of the match, and placed back on the wrestler's head as he exits the match - is a very important component of the ceremony of official Mongolian wrestling. Archers also wear hats during competition, but I am not sure if the rules governing their hats are as strict or as complex. Mongolian culture contains a number of hat-related taboos, including: do not step over someone's hat, do not toss someone's hat to him or her, do not pick up someone's hat without his or her permission. One reason for the importance of hats and the taboos surrounding the treatment of hats has to do with the belief that one's <i>khiimor' </i>(akin to mojo, spiritual energy, or life-force) is concentrated at the top of the head, which collects in one's hat due to the constant and close proximity. Few people in Ulaanbaatar wear hats for day-to-day life in nice weather, but the hats invariably come out during cold weather or for special occasions.<br />
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Last but not least, the Mongolian wrestler's outfit:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij_8XSRB-REWziLqAYGRfVcWP5CYUpctvIE7fPVtvjKyZDHSg8rqROd3R868APJiKjVOTKxqf_Ja0qGZ8peMjE4vy8pYHeUg44C8MSewrvb9mWqYw1GRhV37cssvthz1vMfZDVowEvZW4/s1600/Buh+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij_8XSRB-REWziLqAYGRfVcWP5CYUpctvIE7fPVtvjKyZDHSg8rqROd3R868APJiKjVOTKxqf_Ja0qGZ8peMjE4vy8pYHeUg44C8MSewrvb9mWqYw1GRhV37cssvthz1vMfZDVowEvZW4/s640/Buh+1.jpg" width="556" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shorts, vest, and hat with the tassels of an accomplished Mongolian wrestler, who is warming up before a match with the traditional eagle dance</td></tr>
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Legend has it that the Mongolian wrestling outfit was developed to prevent women from competing in the sport; specifically, a Mongol princess (sometimes the daughter of Qaidu or another Chinggisid) was so talented at wrestling and so resistant to marriage that she declared, "I will marry the man who beats me in the ring, but any man I best must give me 10 horses!". She died unmarried with a herd of over 1,000 horses, or so the story goes. After this, Mongol men were keen to avoid future embarrassment, and required all wrestlers to wear the vest that would expose a woman's breasts, thereby excluding them from competition.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC85hldf7qHKGFETOOI4uYAFiqtGUFejAtXeUywP9SXeCLovAMHOnLoKNHbs2mYFUbRfn1xqmjLCKfPacMzPGvBV5lIuub6eg55jzeRbHUr-18z3SQ60qFUaeq13tBgmqqtxMzPkDRv4U/s1600/Buh+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC85hldf7qHKGFETOOI4uYAFiqtGUFejAtXeUywP9SXeCLovAMHOnLoKNHbs2mYFUbRfn1xqmjLCKfPacMzPGvBV5lIuub6eg55jzeRbHUr-18z3SQ60qFUaeq13tBgmqqtxMzPkDRv4U/s640/Buh+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two younger wrestlers locked in combat as another competitor watches. Their distinctive and ornate traditional wrestling boots are on full display.</td></tr>
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From a technical perspective, the wrestler's outfit minimizes the places where an opponent can grip, forcing wrestlers to develop high-level grappling and throwing techniques that do not rely on finding purchase with just any grab.<br />
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And there you have it - all of my pertinent thoughts when it comes to what (not) to wear during your time in Mongolia. In future posts in the Mongolia Inside & Out series I'll return to some of the topics and issues raised here, especially the air pollution in Ulaanbaatar, but this should be ample material to help you pack your bags and prepare for what you'll see when you arrive. In the mean time, wear what makes you happy enough to dance like this:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://media.giphy.com/media/Cjkk5jJAX4NXy/giphy.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://media.giphy.com/media/Cjkk5jJAX4NXy/giphy.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Janelle Monae and Jidenna, setting the bar high as usual</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-55147384595954717812015-10-12T03:53:00.002-07:002015-10-12T03:53:16.619-07:005 Days of July: Day 5 - Returning through ruins and rock artOn the morning of our fifth and final day adventuring through Central Mongolia, we woke at dawn and quickly got on the road east towards Ulaanbaatar. But we were in for a surprise - a surprise camel attack, that is!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwbDeAzQppa4yoXD68vEHmnj9gFeTyw7qWiSc9EgYm7VKBj3RxfPp3lJKFYG01G-TIufS0Sx-s6MzYyDxAaXc5mVzG_hEMt8jxYYebOKPIZF0LNAQqHKv3_rREepKv5fHMQIXtqPae-i0/s1600/IMG_2779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwbDeAzQppa4yoXD68vEHmnj9gFeTyw7qWiSc9EgYm7VKBj3RxfPp3lJKFYG01G-TIufS0Sx-s6MzYyDxAaXc5mVzG_hEMt8jxYYebOKPIZF0LNAQqHKv3_rREepKv5fHMQIXtqPae-i0/s640/IMG_2779.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A huge herd of camels swarms the Millennium Road on our way from the Orkhon River to Khar Bukhyn Balgas</td></tr>
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This was the largest camel herd I'd ever seen, made all the more surprising because we weren't in 'classic' camel territory. Two of the herd still had saddles and packs on their backs, which means there were probably two camel herders somewhere to the south about to get their own unhappy surprise upon realizing they'd be in for a long walk to get their rides back.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNo-PaSoKcO2Hp79Krg9Zq-ZWUc4RntZTtU-sqptCJoq99vSq3ZVgkQ5g9kT3rF1Wkmmd0Snoc9CxX9l4Q4_eX6oAbcTiyfB3innieYXMa6m1YinPGFPyCit6xdBY22Y7wkr4rEZQi96A/s1600/IMG_2782.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNo-PaSoKcO2Hp79Krg9Zq-ZWUc4RntZTtU-sqptCJoq99vSq3ZVgkQ5g9kT3rF1Wkmmd0Snoc9CxX9l4Q4_eX6oAbcTiyfB3innieYXMa6m1YinPGFPyCit6xdBY22Y7wkr4rEZQi96A/s640/IMG_2782.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Short summer coats make the Bactrian camel look like practically a different species compared to winter time</td></tr>
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<a name='more'></a>Many of the camels were sporting 'floppy' humps, which indicate that they have burnt down their reserves of fat and are in need of food, rest, and water. While it is a popular misconception that camels store water in their humps, the hump only stores fat; the camel's endurance is not just about managing thirst but doing without food and adequate rest (thanks primarily to the fatty hump or humps, in the case of Bactrian camels). The excess water that camels store in their bodies is primarily circulated in the bloodstream, allowing these animals to go relatively long periods without drinking. In this way, the camel's hump is a barometer of its health status and a handy visual cue for herders and veterinarians.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigxrg5CVwdKI83U5FeannAuuZrR8t9mHkPkEwCOwQHRbITQk5Xrr8Fhs-ZmrLJ85BLCFzXrypF7oZaunJMmvNf278aI7A52vHbLEHlzDAY7ZSCCsVgqRFgBnG_hKhhZd5oyYBGgV4cuF8/s1600/IMG_2783.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigxrg5CVwdKI83U5FeannAuuZrR8t9mHkPkEwCOwQHRbITQk5Xrr8Fhs-ZmrLJ85BLCFzXrypF7oZaunJMmvNf278aI7A52vHbLEHlzDAY7ZSCCsVgqRFgBnG_hKhhZd5oyYBGgV4cuF8/s640/IMG_2783.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The camels are supremely unconcerned by Nandia's frustrated gesticulations</td></tr>
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Our last major site would be Khar Bukhyn Balgas, the Khitan/Liao-period ruins along the Bukhyn River.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkAYD1R0dHEHrpLapGIKm3U4URd2W262PhdmvglVf0bI7WEdBU7uOccWqDZ5XMAnKNPf-HQCBa1ifwWASK1KDRnp4Lg_iyXwKe9vRw5DgV_DepVL6iEQEoGdBk9VIsIvHja5Cq9GKJbsY/s1600/IMG_2787.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkAYD1R0dHEHrpLapGIKm3U4URd2W262PhdmvglVf0bI7WEdBU7uOccWqDZ5XMAnKNPf-HQCBa1ifwWASK1KDRnp4Lg_iyXwKe9vRw5DgV_DepVL6iEQEoGdBk9VIsIvHja5Cq9GKJbsY/s640/IMG_2787.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ruins at Khar Bukhyn Balgas</td></tr>
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The central buildings and stupa at Khar Bukhyn Balgas are constructed of stacked rock, differentiating them from Ordu Balik/Khar Balgas, although the perimeter walls seem to be earthwork. The relatively late construction date and construction material together may explain why this fortress is relatively better preserved.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB7gF3D5X6IwBLwfDNAb0L_geHtt1u621MEBxJVkAR8F2Y81iG9TFCfuhyphenhyphenf0vsNOackeKG7BjndTSTrlDhXIp1mC8qvbc8Ttq2qar2Y3FjQS_OzXY_U9sJhjCRXpZa6CfM94Xl964OTvo/s1600/IMG_2789.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB7gF3D5X6IwBLwfDNAb0L_geHtt1u621MEBxJVkAR8F2Y81iG9TFCfuhyphenhyphenf0vsNOackeKG7BjndTSTrlDhXIp1mC8qvbc8Ttq2qar2Y3FjQS_OzXY_U9sJhjCRXpZa6CfM94Xl964OTvo/s640/IMG_2789.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the main structure, scrambling on the crumbling stacked rock walls</td></tr>
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The small museum adjacent to the main fortress buildings contains finds from previous archaeological excavations at Khar Bukhyn Balgas. While the museum is little more than a tiny room, it houses a variety of artifacts that shed some light on the site itself: granite column bases, pottery sherds, facsimiles of Khitan/Liao script written on birch bark, and other material culture that helped archaeologists assign the site to the Khitan/Liao period.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zx5DnWDg96JMmeMVBcHMYxrsMjlj7oqcPbbGmKjfsPcw0-3hgFvu8bPJq-WvOj7v4_Cv2XWWc5RdN8mBVDIFABEjpgE0U0TMVhDw-j30HZiAwEwkN6do5hO9ZAhRjAEdVwdp0L4X5Fg/s1600/IMG_2792.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zx5DnWDg96JMmeMVBcHMYxrsMjlj7oqcPbbGmKjfsPcw0-3hgFvu8bPJq-WvOj7v4_Cv2XWWc5RdN8mBVDIFABEjpgE0U0TMVhDw-j30HZiAwEwkN6do5hO9ZAhRjAEdVwdp0L4X5Fg/s640/IMG_2792.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A visit from the museum and site caretaker's puppy</td></tr>
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But we would make one more stop during the 5 Days of July - the small enclave of Sumyn Am. Sumyn Am holds a special place in my heart, as I've conducted archaeological survey here three times. Numerous burials (mostly from the Bronze Age) line the north slopes, but this summer we took a closer look at the ruins of a small Buddhist monastery and an outcrop dotted with rock art panels.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioJFi2OM-P-MDchGbF5ieDaj-Khg7om92VVbdQow_gx2mZV4Me1g1I8DvM5lc5OL_WugmeKmuBGKWfwpCy2hO_R1UBvv2OWDEM7iYCaS6ZmedgewM10kCGPFSQ0uVdnJDTtSHB0Vpf-LM/s1600/IMG_2793.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioJFi2OM-P-MDchGbF5ieDaj-Khg7om92VVbdQow_gx2mZV4Me1g1I8DvM5lc5OL_WugmeKmuBGKWfwpCy2hO_R1UBvv2OWDEM7iYCaS6ZmedgewM10kCGPFSQ0uVdnJDTtSHB0Vpf-LM/s640/IMG_2793.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Examining the rubble from a Buddhist monastery destroyed during the Communist purges</td></tr>
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Just west of the monastery ruins stands a bluff dotted with rock outcrops. On the south faces of these outcrops ancient peoples have been incising and carving images since at least the Bronze Age.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs4C4DMqiWAZe3TG-9oVIog__Y2ckJ9oIU8aD8INefZVJiztXGKy3GzRAUZC98xgfg34qSpKbLyS9GVvPPJ46QkSBn9FkR3RWdYrTcmI462aw7fpDtiRKsh-JGZgzbEfBWvKphB07Gpc0/s1600/IMG_2815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs4C4DMqiWAZe3TG-9oVIog__Y2ckJ9oIU8aD8INefZVJiztXGKy3GzRAUZC98xgfg34qSpKbLyS9GVvPPJ46QkSBn9FkR3RWdYrTcmI462aw7fpDtiRKsh-JGZgzbEfBWvKphB07Gpc0/s640/IMG_2815.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the southern section of Sumyn Am and one of the rock art outcrops</td></tr>
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Today several herding families have their summer encampments near the mouth of the Sumyn Am valley, and a dirt road runs along the bluff's base and west over the hills. As most of the rock art panels face south and are protected from the harsh north wind, herd animals use them for shelter during winter and inclement weather (judging by the build-up of dung at the panels' bases).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizmqGqOZbvJxyc9_TtFR1aiCXPutZ1_hMg9tWIbFo4A5ReHV0Bl-5_bWZCDh7ZmM63gHJDB8L-gIft4Qutfh3ihU8TURMUBU0mjnF0rDrq6M2zOS9qbbuBryUAy1GKPZ2NhQPshXdrTyE/s1600/IMG_2809-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizmqGqOZbvJxyc9_TtFR1aiCXPutZ1_hMg9tWIbFo4A5ReHV0Bl-5_bWZCDh7ZmM63gHJDB8L-gIft4Qutfh3ihU8TURMUBU0mjnF0rDrq6M2zOS9qbbuBryUAy1GKPZ2NhQPshXdrTyE/s640/IMG_2809-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How many rock art images can you spot in this panel?</td></tr>
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Like most rock art panels in Mongolia that I've seen, the Sumyn Am outcrop is a multi-period site. Certain images clearly fit in established Mongolian rock art chronologies: Bronze Age deer with spectacular antlers (not seen in the panel above though), or the stylized ibex of the Turk period. For others, I am less confident about their time period. However, the Sumyn Am outcrop was clearly used over several millennia by local populations as a nexus for creative expression with as-yet-determined ideological or social motivations. I wonder whether young novices in the early 20th century living at the nearby monastery ever explored these outcrops, wondering who had made the images and perhaps carving a few of their own?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing around to find more panels of rock art</td></tr>
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After clambering up and down the outcrops and rock scrabble in search of rock art, we were in dire need of some shade and refreshment. A small stand of trees in the nearby Suujiin Valley obliged, and we spread out our gear for one last picnic.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Escaping the midday sun underneath trees in Suujiin Valley</td></tr>
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And that was the end of 5 Days in July, the most action-packed five days of camel rides, glorious sunsets, yaks, <i>tsam </i>dancing, pageantry, ruins, and rock art that a girl could ask for. The 5 Days of July were a personal highlight of summer 2015, even considering the collapsed bridge that thwarted my plans. Whether or not I reached Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu to honor ten years of Mongolia in my life, I can't think of a better way to celebrate a 10-year anniversary.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-76765529461880298002015-10-09T18:25:00.000-07:002015-10-11T19:41:37.307-07:005 Days of July: Day 4 - Nostalgia<br />
[All photos courtesy of Kenny L. and Reade L. - thank you again!]<br />
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The morning of our fourth day began rather abruptly. If you will recall the post on Day 3 of 5 Days in July, you will remember that the night before we camped just over the hill from Kharkhorin <i>soum </i>center, hoping to get away from the boisterous <i>danshig</i> crowds at Erdene Zuu monastery. Alas, we were not the only ones with this bright idea, meaning that throughout the night headlights would blaze through our tents, vehicles would rumble by, and small parties of celebrating Mongolians would set up their tents a bit too close to us for comfort.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ8TzWxzzDcqIH1WVEOnzl_kEFl_Yg1Iuje6JXxi45qrYi0v8u0svkj3gniBJQQibYD1I4ASrb-4DWGOHFAA54YCR1UEWlUBmU1xmSgyYo-OvDLF4Hui3LwA95QISQgmg63a1PX2CGBOU/s1600/IMG_2346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ8TzWxzzDcqIH1WVEOnzl_kEFl_Yg1Iuje6JXxi45qrYi0v8u0svkj3gniBJQQibYD1I4ASrb-4DWGOHFAA54YCR1UEWlUBmU1xmSgyYo-OvDLF4Hui3LwA95QISQgmg63a1PX2CGBOU/s640/IMG_2346.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everything's peaceful by this point but check out all those tents in the background. For rural Mongolia, this is unprecedented!</td></tr>
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I was awakened that morning by shouting: our driver, Nandia, and the voices of several Mongolian men. Bleary and startled at the same time, I couldn't decide whether to leap out of my tent to assess the situation or to feign ignorance/sleep (I decided on the latter for about 10 minutes). I soon realized that, as annoying as all the early-morning shouting was, a group of Mongolians had gotten one of their vehicles stuck in the mud and were attempting to persuade Nandia to tow them out with his <i>furgong</i>. Given the struggles his <i>furgong </i>had already gone through, Nandia was reluctant, and demonstrated that his <i>furgong </i>wasn't up to the job by ostentatiously taking out all of his tools and meticulously tuning up the vehicle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTD8XmwSnFgPrmH-16BLcxRfkP38GGjrnydj_QiupCJOVyLalPpmp__aW9Nog8U_1MFlgiJiS-R98UvwEeUTIdmSRhN9C_vKAvXVmzZv-SnxgLiqeEm7I5iJcoO48QhL44v3nFD0WkKCk/s1600/IMG_2352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTD8XmwSnFgPrmH-16BLcxRfkP38GGjrnydj_QiupCJOVyLalPpmp__aW9Nog8U_1MFlgiJiS-R98UvwEeUTIdmSRhN9C_vKAvXVmzZv-SnxgLiqeEm7I5iJcoO48QhL44v3nFD0WkKCk/s640/IMG_2352.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nandia opened up the engine bloc of his <i>furgong </i>to make some repairs and to let our visitors know that he has more important things to do that pull them out of the mud</td></tr>
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But our human alarm clocks were a friendly bunch, chatting with me and Kenny about our group, one short and stout man asking for a photo of himself with the tall and slender Ty, and sharing their <i>boodog </i>from last night as I made American <i>gambir</i>, which we shared with them. They miraculously pushed their vehicle out of the mud and took their leave, undoubtedly heading for the danshig Naadam grounds outside of Kharkhorin for the day's festivities.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9p-nSjcFTBaPF-THiju3MBrK-8AorLAnp3y_uAdvAWMKzFbLxqmOOXRFeMiVbGx1f7US1U3D0QJIu9aNSrd8SGJuS3k-PkLoUDyE6u7UhjlnEG7d6PDlfZ7wBYJOWsEye7yk4r1JCEtU/s1600/IMG_2345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9p-nSjcFTBaPF-THiju3MBrK-8AorLAnp3y_uAdvAWMKzFbLxqmOOXRFeMiVbGx1f7US1U3D0QJIu9aNSrd8SGJuS3k-PkLoUDyE6u7UhjlnEG7d6PDlfZ7wBYJOWsEye7yk4r1JCEtU/s640/IMG_2345.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our visitors eventually managed to free their massive truck and trundle off over the hill.</td></tr>
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After a leisurely breakfast surrounded by other campers, we headed off to the Naadam part of the <i>danshig naadam </i>about 10km east of Kharkhorin. <br />
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As we drove to the site, I was struck by powerful deja vu: <i>I'd been here before.</i> The vehicles and crowds converging on the rolling steppe not more than 30 minutes from Kharkhorin was exactly like my first Naadam experience in Mongolia ten years ago this July. On a day off from excavation at the Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu cemetery in 2005, most of the team visited Khar Balgas, Erdene Zuu (there was no Kharkhorum Museum then), and the stone turtle marking the ruins of Qara Qorum. Later that day, we went to a large local Naadam to see horse races, wrestling, and a massive countryside celebration. Given how similar that first Naadam was to the <i>danshig naadam</i> that was held exactly 10 years later in basically the same place, I realized I'd actually been to a <i>danshig naadam </i>once before without knowing what was going on. This day brought me closer to 2005 and my first brush with Mongolia than any experience over the last ten years. While the <i>danshig naadam </i>was an unexpected part of that nostalgia, there would be more to come.<br />
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We drove through the sprawling parking lot, where jockeys and horsemen wove between dusty vehicles, and headed to the <i>danshig naadam </i>main stage.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWm7oBxocDZ8gMd5IgpHfYNXIQeQqjfZeHNVJdKKgYKL_7jiKZhk_S0iYXVSHcSK33hGIq0UcerrHXCEGSZVrmxYBgV4fq1eJgpO03DN6FM6Dy67CdCcvl00Rm4BoRAm8dFlfjSP7_9yM/s1600/IMG_2368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWm7oBxocDZ8gMd5IgpHfYNXIQeQqjfZeHNVJdKKgYKL_7jiKZhk_S0iYXVSHcSK33hGIq0UcerrHXCEGSZVrmxYBgV4fq1eJgpO03DN6FM6Dy67CdCcvl00Rm4BoRAm8dFlfjSP7_9yM/s640/IMG_2368.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A jockey minds two racehorses in the vast parking lot around the main <i>danshig naadam </i>grounds</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not to be left out, a little troupe of camels was available for rides</td></tr>
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Crowds pressed around a central circular arena as the honor cavalry flying Zanabazar's banners and the Mongolian national flag opened the ceremonies.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyC1rDOI8Rmmh1-b-6vquqdhhftTOc9pXN19k-PmhKstEMDyd4BBbNwa3fvhUPO4udJBUfzG36oBi11kgAIA4xvkMn1wqYrovT2K5SsPGy88K4sJItdQefwRYlGlYYGetCugUwduNwhZw/s1600/IMG_2375.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyC1rDOI8Rmmh1-b-6vquqdhhftTOc9pXN19k-PmhKstEMDyd4BBbNwa3fvhUPO4udJBUfzG36oBi11kgAIA4xvkMn1wqYrovT2K5SsPGy88K4sJItdQefwRYlGlYYGetCugUwduNwhZw/s640/IMG_2375.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Honor guard in ceremonial dress queue up for the parading of <i>danshig naadam </i>flags in the opening ceremony. These outfits are very similar to the dress worn by the national <i>naadam </i>honor guard.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banners flown by the honor guard</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marching in step</td></tr>
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The honor guard were followed by a procession of monks, reincarnations, and other Buddhist dignitaries in full ceremonial regalia. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeYNOHexfxyhHlNdqcTwLt6Yl7bqa3puX7oAb6YmTP5jYVD5qy66DIr8TjLCaEDK9NmTZYrFPvw-cPIChtdRhwmnu72x3w8keAZWudmAuc_bXOYejFRAessPYmLWxzpOd6aGHKBLEwgVE/s1600/IMG_2416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeYNOHexfxyhHlNdqcTwLt6Yl7bqa3puX7oAb6YmTP5jYVD5qy66DIr8TjLCaEDK9NmTZYrFPvw-cPIChtdRhwmnu72x3w8keAZWudmAuc_bXOYejFRAessPYmLWxzpOd6aGHKBLEwgVE/s640/IMG_2416.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Music accompanies the procession: cymbals, conch, and trumpets</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJzZuKW6uI9KiTBUnrvLwIcHAB_Va0yqng-mBZXJhaIouhw6Q6sp3dcYJgf_Gk0jZkERTVfhC3o1oPIcP2EfOG7rLHv5XAbqQ1FCMJqtpTsLVEFLxwCiIfw2Bnd0kT9RjEz_Cu-jPUx64/s1600/IMG_2417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJzZuKW6uI9KiTBUnrvLwIcHAB_Va0yqng-mBZXJhaIouhw6Q6sp3dcYJgf_Gk0jZkERTVfhC3o1oPIcP2EfOG7rLHv5XAbqQ1FCMJqtpTsLVEFLxwCiIfw2Bnd0kT9RjEz_Cu-jPUx64/s640/IMG_2417.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A cadre of high-ranking monks carry a statue of Zanabazar, the first Jebsundamba Khutugtkhuu</td></tr>
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The opening ceremony rolled onward after the monks left the arena, but we wanted to see what else was happening at the <i>danshig naadam</i>. We wandered past booths selling children's clothing, religious paraphenalia, toys, and imported goods. <br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh49J7RQ6b9MeO3P0q3r_1x1Dcy5MUgdbMJFSHEO4xjJNvd2pR1Qt5X2EtxiEy_-sqcodfWOe-AtkoGuqBPdjVmoa1uAPlVW6Yr6QYw4FJb2dMYLB_sxfZCddc5N2ewL7sL_15Rldc5w5g/s1600/IMG_2454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh49J7RQ6b9MeO3P0q3r_1x1Dcy5MUgdbMJFSHEO4xjJNvd2pR1Qt5X2EtxiEy_-sqcodfWOe-AtkoGuqBPdjVmoa1uAPlVW6Yr6QYw4FJb2dMYLB_sxfZCddc5N2ewL7sL_15Rldc5w5g/s640/IMG_2454.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Horsemen ride through the <i>danshig naadam</i><br />
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Most of the crowds were watching the main show or one of the horse races in the valley to the north, but we walked alongside folks on horseback, young <i>flaneurs </i>in search of a kick, and grannies minding small children to several carnival games. Some games looked downright deadly - bungee-jump contraptions for children - where others were more down-to-earth games like darts or feats of strength.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reade impresses a group of onlookers with her amazing feat of grip strength!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO-A1zHObUyeB2yZTIN-3LNd4DOKo0eMsDLEB9YNU4JIbS3K_4t-54k_u0_GUQT3okFCCmywsmWqzrgniUlfebwCLKsqBn2DclT69Q2vv37JoG38X7Ko5g1Oq5ps2ircgcH5FPoyU5kD4/s1600/IMG_2458.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO-A1zHObUyeB2yZTIN-3LNd4DOKo0eMsDLEB9YNU4JIbS3K_4t-54k_u0_GUQT3okFCCmywsmWqzrgniUlfebwCLKsqBn2DclT69Q2vv37JoG38X7Ko5g1Oq5ps2ircgcH5FPoyU5kD4/s640/IMG_2458.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vendors at the <i>danshig naadam </i>peddle their wares under the blazing July sun</td></tr>
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After our little exploration of the various vendor's stalls and festival games, we happened upon the somewhat-overlooked archery arena. Archery is the only <i>naadam </i>sport in which adult women are allowed to participate. All the participants were decked out in their finest: brilliant <i>deel</i>, glorious hats, and accessorized with lovely belts and boots.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir5qdqHaUHK_QQh9PBnxb7e9yu0xvEeOA3J3yuGl65EoBc7ZFJglmIw7-zzV0xzNuK3CPPmwpLxMJLuSYY7SOtzM5ivdj00Vc0Cn2t5a3AXE8rO_YQ_T0Q1nUEwaCfzkVaWCrWi_XqBWM/s1600/Day4_3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir5qdqHaUHK_QQh9PBnxb7e9yu0xvEeOA3J3yuGl65EoBc7ZFJglmIw7-zzV0xzNuK3CPPmwpLxMJLuSYY7SOtzM5ivdj00Vc0Cn2t5a3AXE8rO_YQ_T0Q1nUEwaCfzkVaWCrWi_XqBWM/s640/Day4_3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A round of women's archery<br />
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In Mongolian archery competitions, archers line up as a group facing a row of targets. Multiple archers will shoot at the same time, challenging spectators to keep track of who has hit which mark.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmbwvSSGfWcxBvfThtcAfKEvnY8OzrRdYlDyAcf_2INpi2_hsh7slcAae4Q48Bp-jf3oBWd0Fhwvt5xLu3J41bZiQ5zRumU8f-AkXOvPNLWrJWQ8wJ1rR1mEXZhIVY_dAVXqlqco8dTVs/s1600/Day4_4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmbwvSSGfWcxBvfThtcAfKEvnY8OzrRdYlDyAcf_2INpi2_hsh7slcAae4Q48Bp-jf3oBWd0Fhwvt5xLu3J41bZiQ5zRumU8f-AkXOvPNLWrJWQ8wJ1rR1mEXZhIVY_dAVXqlqco8dTVs/s640/Day4_4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A male archer aims for the target</td></tr>
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Other archers and referees stand around the targets in order to keep score; they immediately signal the rating of an archer's shot through a combination of gestures and singing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRLenyosC0QwdBZqZaOm6o7kgy4b4uthzgE2OzzmlR7NfsoZuSYFs_eNZu9mx0ioZ3xjERyIXnj-5DV9_solqurBQo8PTxx5ym4vk1O06zqkdqYV281lhDY3SuSKEM2RDbPNZxxyR-P2I/s1600/IMG_2550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRLenyosC0QwdBZqZaOm6o7kgy4b4uthzgE2OzzmlR7NfsoZuSYFs_eNZu9mx0ioZ3xjERyIXnj-5DV9_solqurBQo8PTxx5ym4vk1O06zqkdqYV281lhDY3SuSKEM2RDbPNZxxyR-P2I/s640/IMG_2550.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A hit acknowledged by the referees/other archers keeping score at the target line</td></tr>
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The target, as shown below, is incredibly low to the ground and meant to represent an enemy soldier's body. There is apparently a variation in competitive Mongolian archery where the target is placed in a small ditch, forcing archers to angle their shots accordingly. <br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSxgoykTDRpf2liuSq_ldPvp_rKjesHcPXsTkxmuhkIMJ9T4kPh0-ons9XyVYabFdnHX0aHuhlTTjG5J2_a3vf6CeotUBCCDnPpW7KxoBXe61HSkNv41jj_ANDLOiSD8fztyub2w2zn20/s1600/IMG_2636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSxgoykTDRpf2liuSq_ldPvp_rKjesHcPXsTkxmuhkIMJ9T4kPh0-ons9XyVYabFdnHX0aHuhlTTjG5J2_a3vf6CeotUBCCDnPpW7KxoBXe61HSkNv41jj_ANDLOiSD8fztyub2w2zn20/s640/IMG_2636.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Closeup: almost a bulls-eye!</td></tr>
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While Mongolians have explained the correlation between enemy body-part and section of the target, I admit that I don't quite follow. The closer the arrow comes to the center of the target (red cylinders), the higher up on the body it hit; except that this seems to break down when it comes to the head, which doesn't appear to be the highest-scoring shot. Some of this was explained to me and I supplemented these explanations with observations of how the gestures and singing of the referees and archers at the targets changed depending on where the arrow hit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiVSHruPzcTUP5aV2CrqG-Y1QJJcc2R-u6Jclgw_cEt0Jbi2lblBBKFtx4pnZ_220xWoAnuLC_jSMMmiFQsVUmVFgloRegEtQ68jrCfQByekrrnUT4Tf35nFPNbVg0FBItZ7_2Kvp1Ix8/s1600/IMG_2652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiVSHruPzcTUP5aV2CrqG-Y1QJJcc2R-u6Jclgw_cEt0Jbi2lblBBKFtx4pnZ_220xWoAnuLC_jSMMmiFQsVUmVFgloRegEtQ68jrCfQByekrrnUT4Tf35nFPNbVg0FBItZ7_2Kvp1Ix8/s640/IMG_2652.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Profile of an archer drawing the bow</td></tr>
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But we had many miles to go that day and archery was our last <i>danshig naadam </i>event. We stopped briefly at Erdene Zuu monastery once more to see the temples and art during regular visiting hours.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnN3DONJJ6l95j_qCJBINHQEsl2rTgUAegtpTsVMqZjicaf23eaHcKXkhrjJ_93EavEWYgSg132cKoEUh7x45iPrAr20QXcZr16zyeJoPS-SOAY8ZNtCUjuhlMrLtf-0xZfKSCh8kGy5g/s1600/IMG_2660.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnN3DONJJ6l95j_qCJBINHQEsl2rTgUAegtpTsVMqZjicaf23eaHcKXkhrjJ_93EavEWYgSg132cKoEUh7x45iPrAr20QXcZr16zyeJoPS-SOAY8ZNtCUjuhlMrLtf-0xZfKSCh8kGy5g/s640/IMG_2660.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to one of the temple complexes in Erdene Zuu</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmPZ08tzEteMNb1WITNuVfR-JB5gh0pFNYm-tYkzgqRp2foG3XnYSJH4iCv1DnKeD6XyffdsMFDC1xX-42BqlJTQpXMLRgmijnmIjlX_DlnnbPrAbOZtueR9Vx46Hw8qU_c6wZpvS9tEo/s1600/IMG_2671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmPZ08tzEteMNb1WITNuVfR-JB5gh0pFNYm-tYkzgqRp2foG3XnYSJH4iCv1DnKeD6XyffdsMFDC1xX-42BqlJTQpXMLRgmijnmIjlX_DlnnbPrAbOZtueR9Vx46Hw8qU_c6wZpvS9tEo/s640/IMG_2671.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stupas in the grounds of Erdene Zuu monastery</td></tr>
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Although we could have stayed longer at either the <i>danshig naadam </i>or Erdene Zuu, I pushed us onward because we had two major stops left that day: Khar Balgas, the Uyghur imperial capital, and Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu on the north bank of the Tamir River approximately 80km from Kharkhorin. <br />
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Khar Balgas, or Ordu Balik, never fails to impress.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnBeUOadTtgBRDx8iN0UaFxfQ-XiGHoh1DEm2IM2roTlA6gzjTeYkHzrwlYlvQbPIHdQP_q7cdGwDvF0XMCX_JSxCqOLDqt7fsGMungZ9LOhi_Qu9xiWsOGPyghMkUcA20_XMgNo2FJNk/s1600/IMG_2721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnBeUOadTtgBRDx8iN0UaFxfQ-XiGHoh1DEm2IM2roTlA6gzjTeYkHzrwlYlvQbPIHdQP_q7cdGwDvF0XMCX_JSxCqOLDqt7fsGMungZ9LOhi_Qu9xiWsOGPyghMkUcA20_XMgNo2FJNk/s640/IMG_2721.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from the walls of Khar Balgas</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vRVyoTT3jQOaFD3E6Fc-9ixztUyqU7siyrXQzFfXlCJqnMjvsk7G8nsty7jVz-rI3-r_D1EMZsvSP1Z1X8j4hUQANBx65hGGBTqIcI5lBmH8gVL-x_SHa5Yp0DObio1KL4q-it4VTIA/s1600/IMG_2707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vRVyoTT3jQOaFD3E6Fc-9ixztUyqU7siyrXQzFfXlCJqnMjvsk7G8nsty7jVz-rI3-r_D1EMZsvSP1Z1X8j4hUQANBx65hGGBTqIcI5lBmH8gVL-x_SHa5Yp0DObio1KL4q-it4VTIA/s640/IMG_2707.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reade at the top of the central tower inside the citadel ruins</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirucLCv3HOa6Fo59l_Gbew7lvpE-iuAMs_JnTNTy46Q8ZOpWhegFjElMQ4j0tttP1Tx-69UVNibpZxd8C9gh-8DoXPC9VjDYxKTMnwvmB0U9rNc-jQdEFpcKehtSMa9ebaL5YR7XROaxQ/s1600/Day4_5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirucLCv3HOa6Fo59l_Gbew7lvpE-iuAMs_JnTNTy46Q8ZOpWhegFjElMQ4j0tttP1Tx-69UVNibpZxd8C9gh-8DoXPC9VjDYxKTMnwvmB0U9rNc-jQdEFpcKehtSMa9ebaL5YR7XROaxQ/s640/Day4_5.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking the walls of Khar Balgas, with ruined stupas along the outside</td></tr>
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And now for the bittersweet part of the trip - the failed return to Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu! One of my major motivations for making this 5-day trip was to pay homage to the place where I got my start in Mongolia: the Khunnu/Xiongnu cemetery at Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu, where I worked in 2005 on the joint Silk Road-MUIS archaeological expedition. Sadly, the bridge over the Orkhon River between me and Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu had other ideas...<br />
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This rickety bridge over the Orkhon River has marked three major events in my Mongolian career: arriving at my first expedition's excavation site in 2005, crossing into survey area for the first field project I ever led in 2010, and celebrating my 10-year anniversary in 2015.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXp9B7zjYPre0SsiLdyeMoVdluKLYOH2GoFw6nLt8dw7wgMs_Pqyocniq13sLgZ_RcVQOfD5D7Yr9RkHhwgFPbA1GalUuGLqQQAZDpeibVBvmJoBENK4CXs0pjVb2qww9H_duagkWKRCQ/s1600/Orkhon+river+2010.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXp9B7zjYPre0SsiLdyeMoVdluKLYOH2GoFw6nLt8dw7wgMs_Pqyocniq13sLgZ_RcVQOfD5D7Yr9RkHhwgFPbA1GalUuGLqQQAZDpeibVBvmJoBENK4CXs0pjVb2qww9H_duagkWKRCQ/s640/Orkhon+river+2010.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the Orkhon River in 2010 headed into Arkhangai <i>aimag</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deciding against driving across the same bridge in 2014</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What remains of the bridge over the Orkhon River in July 2015</td></tr>
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How frustrating to be thwarted at the last moment! I say that the bridge had other ideas, when actually it had given up on life and decided to collapse into the murky waters of the Orkhon. The five days in July were meant to culminate in a symbolic return to my origins as a Mongolist and field archaeologist with a visit to the Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu site. But sometimes you just have to let things go, especially when the bridge gives out.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Ямар уудам* юм бэ / Монголын тал нутаг</i><br />
["<i>How wide and calm is the Mongolian steppe homeland"</i>]</td></tr>
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That evening was serene, as befits a campsite along such a placid section of the Orkhon surrounded by the steppe. Unfortunately one of our party had a little midnight misadventure, but that's his story to tell.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Al fresco </i>dinner at sunset, accompanied by dogs</td></tr>
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In the final installment of 5 Days of July: more ruins, more archaeology, and a surprise camel attack!<br />
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*10/12/2015 edit - thanks to Ariuna for the correct lyrics to one of my favorite Mongolian songs, "<i>Mongolyn tal nutag/Монголын тал нутаг"</i>! <br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-1504252447906013512015-10-08T09:02:00.002-07:002015-10-08T09:16:16.236-07:005 Days of July: Day 3 - from lus along the Orkhon to a tsam dance at Erdene ZuuWell, well, I'm still posting about stuff in July and it's already the first week of October - oops! Now, back to those 5 days of July...<br />
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[All photos courtesy of Reade L. and Kenny L. - thank you!]<br />
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A brief flashback to our second night: Kenny noticed an unusual-looking <i>ovoo </i>near our campsite. This <i>ovoo </i>consisted of a base of larger dark stones piled with small light-colored stones near a tipi-like stack of wood and a small circle of white stones. <br />
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We puzzled over it in the fading sunlight until we had a chance to ask the nearby family - it was a ritual complex set up for a shaman coming to perform a ceremony the next evening. In the last year I've seen more <i>ovoo </i>similar to this, with a clear raised base rather than a messy pile of rocks and offerings, and I'll be paying closer attention to this phenomenon from now on. Shamanism in Mongolia, like any system of practices and beliefs, is changing all the time; this may be a visible and somewhat-public manifestation of recent changes or innovations.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The small circle in the foreground is the protected space in which the shaman will perform the ritual for the <i>lus</i>, the spirit of the river in this area</td></tr>
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Our third morning began with the dew from the previous night's rain over our campsite. It seems that the <i>lus </i>was perfectly happy to host us!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shaking off the morning dew</td></tr>
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Unfortunately the pictures really don't capture the exquisite beauty of this spot - the light, the rush of the wind through the trees in the canyon, the blue-green river, and the endless sky.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking a few last minutes to soak in Nature's wonders along the Orkhon canyon</td></tr>
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But we had many miles to travel that day! Backtracking along the Upper Orkhon River delta, we made our way out to Khujirt where paved road began. Our lunch-time pit-stop included a quick walk through the massive Bronze-Age cemetery just east of the small town.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gabbing about graves: slab burial at the Bronze-Age cemetery outside of Khujirt</td></tr>
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The site extends south along the base of the hill and contains well over 100 slab burials (<i>durvuljin bulsh</i>) and <i>khirigsuur </i>(burial mounds usually with enclosure features) that have mostly been robbed or excavated in the past. <br />
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Slab burials and <i>khirigsuur </i>are the two primary mortuary features of Bronze-Age Mongolia. Received wisdom is that slab burials represent a slightly-later culture originating in the eastern part of Mongolia, whereas the peoples who built the <i>khirigsuur</i> came earlier and share ethnic and cultural affiliations with western archaeological cultures, perhaps including various kurgan-building groups of the vast Eurasian steppe. The implicit (and sometimes explicit) argument is that the <i>khirigsuur </i>builders were cultural and ethnic descendants of the Karasuk (debatable) and thus European-ish (even more debatable), unlike the later slab-burial culture from the east (which are characterized as racially or ethnically Asian and perhaps the progenitors of the Khunnu/Xiongnu). The literature indicates a significant divide amongst those working on Bronze-Age Mongolia when it comes to <i>khirigsuur</i>: one camp views them as burial mounds (Russian and Mongolian archaeologists), while the other argues that the paucity of human remains and grave goods indicates that they are not exclusively burials or are ritual features with no mortuary function (American and Western European archaeologists).<br />
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However, as we see in the Khujirt cemetery, there is spatial and likely temporal overlap between the slab grave- and <i>khirigsuur</i>-building archaeological cultures of Bronze-Age Mongolia, especially in Central Mongolia.<i> </i>To the best of my knowledge, the working hypotheses requires a much tighter chronology than is currently available. This is also a very general typology of Bronze-Age mortuary/ritual features that represent the cultures of Mongolia at the time; there are archaeological features (particularly mounds) that do not fit this typology. It's important to remember that you can only really know what's in a mound, potential burial, or subterranean ritual feature if you excavate it. An experienced field archaeologist in Mongolia can make a good educated guess from the feature's appearance on the ground (the surface feature) but that assessment should be treated as a working hypothesis until the unit can be excavated. Without material culture, internal organization (i.e., tomb construction), and dating (ideally carbon-14), you simply don't have enough data to know precisely what you're dealing with.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5WjugBOb3td7HD_Q0w5gKqxjrcOrsJkn8bZwwlnG5ZV9l5fq-9MMiODPIGVsAeiHM1xWdmB7IC09HlEZUf45aTofYvybG5kg93blKvc720pz2-1PPbSTP56pzO3Jc3lnleOtwo1i6ug/s1600/IMG_1974.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5WjugBOb3td7HD_Q0w5gKqxjrcOrsJkn8bZwwlnG5ZV9l5fq-9MMiODPIGVsAeiHM1xWdmB7IC09HlEZUf45aTofYvybG5kg93blKvc720pz2-1PPbSTP56pzO3Jc3lnleOtwo1i6ug/s640/IMG_1974.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alas, poor Yorick: talking about weathering and taphonomy using a modern horse skull in a Bronze Age cemetery outside of Khujirt</td></tr>
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Enough musings on archaeological interpretation for one post!<br />
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Our destination for the day was Kharkhorin <i>soum</i> center, the county seat at the site of the original Mongol imperial capital city Qara Qorum and home of one of Mongolia's largest Buddhist monasteries, Erdene Zuu. But we were also drawn to Kharkhorin for the <i>danshig</i> in celebration of <i>Undur Gegeen Zanabazar</i> (380th anniversary, but who's counting) to be celebrated in Erdene Zuu and again about 10km beyond the city limits.<br />
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But first, the museum:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrWPRk_1LmSRVFWhIwAANlplzb6Ze2jI-lR7BKochS2zBHJzJxSbBWhTr0Wcw-1MbvzmL9pn9EJlUJV95vTT4PKcrEbvC0u3TyythQyL3c_0kjnKpRvrm5yQHnQOq1H-PBHmAgMkXQVWg/s1600/IMG_1991.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrWPRk_1LmSRVFWhIwAANlplzb6Ze2jI-lR7BKochS2zBHJzJxSbBWhTr0Wcw-1MbvzmL9pn9EJlUJV95vTT4PKcrEbvC0u3TyythQyL3c_0kjnKpRvrm5yQHnQOq1H-PBHmAgMkXQVWg/s640/IMG_1991.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reconstruction of a Mongol imperial-era kiln from Qara Qorum, the capital founded by Chinggis Khan's son and successor, Ugudei, in 1235</td></tr>
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The Kharkhorin Museum was only built in 2012 and stands as one of Mongolia's finest museums. There is a permanent exhibition of archaeological finds from every major period of Mongolian history - although the quality of each period's display varies greatly - and currently a special exhibition of a fabulous <i>shooron bumbugur </i>tomb. Most of our group's best photos are of the special exhibition; enjoy!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGntvVOypSgEBOLKD9XRzFZlOumcNdr9IJ8bTUHC2cPO_bsUAEmetpkAbLz6ckI97Su2fUH2LOq95PJ2C8US_ZQ1tF1KcNwivWA-XJpOs45esis4XtTU__rEHBEigxcAN-jRE9gmglBiQ/s1600/IMG_2118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGntvVOypSgEBOLKD9XRzFZlOumcNdr9IJ8bTUHC2cPO_bsUAEmetpkAbLz6ckI97Su2fUH2LOq95PJ2C8US_ZQ1tF1KcNwivWA-XJpOs45esis4XtTU__rEHBEigxcAN-jRE9gmglBiQ/s640/IMG_2118.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sculptures from the <i>shooron bumbugur </i>tomb</td></tr>
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There have only been two <i>shooron bumbugur </i>tombs excavated in Mongolia; both are located in the Tuul River valley between Dashinchilen (Bulgan Province) and Zaamar (Tuv Province), where archaeologists have identified numerous medieval-era fortress remains, including Chin Tolgoi and the well-known ruins at Khar Bukhyn Balgas. Unlike any other know tomb types in the rest of Mongolian archaeology, <i>shooron bumbugur </i>tombs are underground passage tombs much more like the Chinese elite constructions during the Tang Dynasty, composed of several underground rooms with 'skylights' or opening to the surface. The tomb on display at the museum had a number of its fantastical wall paintings still intact when archaeologists began excavation.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZVf9cuGJUaSfJDsuC2PH77yEXMcFkgfeCr8AbR84TXYQQvNxIej2TnovKd2MKMll9Wxrj7B_voVFECtsVtyldR-w6LC6Fs0f2-mNCTUFTrpsCHLyBewUfHfZFMlA2u6VHeQG7LZ9tdU/s1600/IMG_2129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXZVf9cuGJUaSfJDsuC2PH77yEXMcFkgfeCr8AbR84TXYQQvNxIej2TnovKd2MKMll9Wxrj7B_voVFECtsVtyldR-w6LC6Fs0f2-mNCTUFTrpsCHLyBewUfHfZFMlA2u6VHeQG7LZ9tdU/s640/IMG_2129.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small cavalry soldiers from the <i>shooron bumbugur </i>tomb</td></tr>
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The docent at the museum explained that archaeologists are still debating whether the <i>shooron bumbugur </i>tomb dates from the Turk period or the later Uyghur period due to the interesting mix of cosmopolitan material culture found in the tomb. Perhaps 'interesting' is an understatement! The figurines range from the historical-yet-mundane humans to the fantastical beasts in the above photo. The tomb murals - seen in the video introduction to the exhibit onsite - are similarly stunning.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZJKsfP0qZAQPNDBfdfMP5xAjOAMYRN56FKnYf1c8wRmOvPyqmQ-W8d8vF-5WPTwrKOajlzO458tZ0TjE2bpzUn5w6xZEqJ7Kbh4PgP6UB0MSQHBB0D7oBNUM5haztYtDnYWhomOyJPzo/s1600/IMG_2144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZJKsfP0qZAQPNDBfdfMP5xAjOAMYRN56FKnYf1c8wRmOvPyqmQ-W8d8vF-5WPTwrKOajlzO458tZ0TjE2bpzUn5w6xZEqJ7Kbh4PgP6UB0MSQHBB0D7oBNUM5haztYtDnYWhomOyJPzo/s640/IMG_2144.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Literal gold treasure from the <i>shooron bumbugur </i>tomb</td></tr>
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The textiles, jewelry, and small finds from the tomb evince contacts much further afield than ancient China: coins, designs, and motifs from at least as far as Byzantium (there were knock-off Byzantine coins made into personal accoutrements, if I remember correctly). I eagerly await an in-depth scholarly publication on this and the other excavated <i>shooron bumbugur </i>tomb from the Tuul River valley!<br />
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Unless you read Mongolian, you are not going to get much out of the Kharkhorum Museum's official webpage. However, the museum has posted a suitable epic short video on the finds and reconstructed materials from the <i>shooron bumbugur </i>tomb at the bottom of this page: http://www.kharakhorummuseum.mn/index.php/baingiin-uzesgelen <br />
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There's also a virtual museum feature here:<br />
http://www.kharakhorummuseum.mn/back_old/components/com_weblinks/virtualtour2/Vittual_museum.html<br />
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As the afternoon wore on, we headed over to Erdene Zuu monastery and the many souvenir shops, game stands, and food vendors lining the entrance and parking lot. I have been to Erdene Zuu many times and have never seen it even half as crowded as that afternoon; the <i>danshig </i>was clearly a tremendous draw. We wound our way through a number of shops, picking up some souvenirs and admiring artwork, before getting photos with a golden eagle:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMtjKoxxdbvVlzziKDWWAhhliuj4nSOadNeN4AGDYIlwPBiCFTw5X-Ub84Qi8i2nzWDX6z_1wfBTBqUPk4dF_7qKnOgSawPytkEu7WrFVILyM-Y4xHmB5W38l1spegpOaQjQSFmPCqUKM/s1600/K93.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMtjKoxxdbvVlzziKDWWAhhliuj4nSOadNeN4AGDYIlwPBiCFTw5X-Ub84Qi8i2nzWDX6z_1wfBTBqUPk4dF_7qKnOgSawPytkEu7WrFVILyM-Y4xHmB5W38l1spegpOaQjQSFmPCqUKM/s640/K93.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kenny the <i>burgedchin</i></td></tr>
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The crowd poured through the narrow wooden gates of Erdene Zuu and we were swept inside along with throngs of observant Mongolians (and a handful of other foreigners). The scene was gorgeous beyond all comparison: glinting golden light tinged rose thanks to the setting sun, luminous clouds changing color each minute, and the brilliant sky stretching endlessly overhead. Much of the crowd was decked out in their finest <i>deel</i>. We took a seat in the grass inside the temple complex and waited for the show to begin on stage.<br />
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Unfortunately, our party invoked the ire of a very bossy <i>egch</i>, who vehemently objected to one of our party taking photos as the crowd gathered to observe the evening's performances. I was very surprised by the woman's extremely hostile and aggressive behavior AFTER we had apologized and offered to erase photos that accidentally included her party. This woman had likely had bad experiences with foreign photographers in the past (and might have been a tad embarrassed about her intoxicated public sleeping it off in the middle of the <i>danshig naadam </i>crowd). I've definitely seen some very bad behavior from such photographers in Mongolia: not asking permission for portraits, getting in people's way/face, treating human beings like part of the landscape, etc. So thanks, past jerks, for poisoning the well!<br />
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Despite the unpleasant run-in, it was a luminous evening in Erdene Zuu monastery:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1BC6p400vSI09Uy5RgAaSgs4YUYLJsQpaULJYhGSVle_uuUqBd-88NsK_Y0WR0vLVYelGUoHT3s5DondwoWJefJJ3OXKYv4BbFqsuGMVLQ4VdKmN0E-azC4yJTdZ27O_-vjzd3rf_p8/s1600/R26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1BC6p400vSI09Uy5RgAaSgs4YUYLJsQpaULJYhGSVle_uuUqBd-88NsK_Y0WR0vLVYelGUoHT3s5DondwoWJefJJ3OXKYv4BbFqsuGMVLQ4VdKmN0E-azC4yJTdZ27O_-vjzd3rf_p8/s640/R26.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ariuna is having fun evening at <i>Erdene Zuu </i>monastery</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIoOQYNUrkvAy9uqD_1GsUcxIeMn5pBTq4pm547lm4gvaGQTC_C75zHR304-2bKka42fk1bFdk6cY-VU1EgMSuno7pDfj05IZpzwwtrYedM7CM60B3Q8Ch0vVmFQuVnF6EjGIhWfl9AXU/s1600/Day3_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIoOQYNUrkvAy9uqD_1GsUcxIeMn5pBTq4pm547lm4gvaGQTC_C75zHR304-2bKka42fk1bFdk6cY-VU1EgMSuno7pDfj05IZpzwwtrYedM7CM60B3Q8Ch0vVmFQuVnF6EjGIhWfl9AXU/s640/Day3_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hands-down the most crowded I have ever seen <i>Erdene Zuu </i>monastery.</td></tr>
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As the golden light faded and the sky filled with rose and lavender, I witnessed the first <i>tsam </i>dance in all my 10 years working and traveling in Mongolia:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc_YsvNMKUti5ScGnp3WHUd5jD_icj_oV4sjwVmraq7rsPo-bujTMT17En_b2K6N9zaDhv9mPbFRfgqcBSk_QgY5fnlaAjqEr41W28sNdqEYJVHN5PNMzdTrPFmZPXoJo9rQHijL_K_lk/s1600/K94.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc_YsvNMKUti5ScGnp3WHUd5jD_icj_oV4sjwVmraq7rsPo-bujTMT17En_b2K6N9zaDhv9mPbFRfgqcBSk_QgY5fnlaAjqEr41W28sNdqEYJVHN5PNMzdTrPFmZPXoJo9rQHijL_K_lk/s640/K94.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Tsam </i>dance performed inside the <i>Erdene Zuu</i> monastery as part of the <i>danshig </i>celebrating the 380th anniversary of <i>Unduur Geegen Zanabazar</i></td></tr>
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In recent years I had heard a great deal about the <i>tsam</i>: the masks, the ritualized dance, the haunting music. But the <i>tsam </i>is very rarely performed. 2015 was an unusual year in that multiple <i>tsam </i>dances occurred at several locations in Mongolia, were made open to the general public, and publicized somewhat in advance (including, obviously, the Erdene Zuu <i>tsam </i>dance). <br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeU778Y6yJV1ZccH7KcAlHZKjW0br6yUPDALOTEl4ZAUPkIsa71ChAKXc0V3j0jpjpQZGqcynR53jJLfQTpjHDzP7W3sH9viHnDWhdPy9_-HcA8_bZUv2dz7u7-nu98R3y0tktCQgwJHE/s1600/R27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeU778Y6yJV1ZccH7KcAlHZKjW0br6yUPDALOTEl4ZAUPkIsa71ChAKXc0V3j0jpjpQZGqcynR53jJLfQTpjHDzP7W3sH9viHnDWhdPy9_-HcA8_bZUv2dz7u7-nu98R3y0tktCQgwJHE/s640/R27.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Ty gets up close and personal with the <i>tsam </i>dancers as they exit the stage</td></tr>
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According to what I have been told, the <i>tsam </i>dance is one of the more obvious examples of the fusion of Buddhism with indigenous shamanic and animistic traditions that characterizes Mongolian Buddhism. The music played during the <i>tsam </i>dance is meant to drive away evil spirits (or spirits inhabiting the land before Buddhism gained supremacy, depending on who you ask), as are the masks that give the dance its name (<i>tsam </i>means 'mask' in Mongolian). The dancers are monks in elaborate ritual costumes who perform a synchronized dance along with the music played by an accompanying 'orchestra' of monks. The Erdene Zuu ceremony took place on a small stage but the <i>tsam </i>dance traditional occurs in concentric white circles marked out in an open space, which you can see in both 21st century and pre-Socialist-period photos from Mongolia.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipfVD0pTaL19JFfTeNxDiqsBiLSmnifXGpX_9CtaLIH1TdT47Jq-2JVIX8YykwziU6cbXrGVV9zj3X9fOSpMxq6cQlcGd6-0az77dDLiCpDsVyqRT-F1_Xqj8S8xEEvx-2V3sHulZOncE/s1600/RP13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipfVD0pTaL19JFfTeNxDiqsBiLSmnifXGpX_9CtaLIH1TdT47Jq-2JVIX8YykwziU6cbXrGVV9zj3X9fOSpMxq6cQlcGd6-0az77dDLiCpDsVyqRT-F1_Xqj8S8xEEvx-2V3sHulZOncE/s640/RP13.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Vajrabhairava</i>, I think?</td></tr>
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If you wish to see <i>tsam </i>ritual costumes and masks but cannot attend an actual performance, the Zanabazar Fine Arts Museum in Ulaanbaatar has some spectacular costumes on display from before the Socialist period (and purges).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9IiM4wXq7nXBAXO5P9mKtEKXRRRGRp9OQIds51LbtZ8gK0sFFVf3J7EPmOKJGcu6nFtlW430SN1meTbptOOd-nOgUOT2T5J9FGDBnlxiLg2hVENnGbjj99OzkVyUsuiRFU0spn8E50xU/s1600/RP14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9IiM4wXq7nXBAXO5P9mKtEKXRRRGRp9OQIds51LbtZ8gK0sFFVf3J7EPmOKJGcu6nFtlW430SN1meTbptOOd-nOgUOT2T5J9FGDBnlxiLg2hVENnGbjj99OzkVyUsuiRFU0spn8E50xU/s640/RP14.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Цагаан Өвгөн, or the Old White Man (of the Mountains)</td></tr>
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This <i>tsam </i>dance was rather brief (20-30 minutes) compared to the marathon sessions at Dashinchoilen monastery, Khui Doloo Khudag, and Amarbayasgalant monastery (several hours!) this year. However, I was very moved by the experience and felt the privilege of attendance at such a significant event.<br />
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The performers left the stage as dusk deepened into nightfall with the setting of the summer sun. We ourselves had to hustle to get to a camping spot before actual darkness set in and we were left pitching tents with flashlights.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNvs2u8l0qISN3GkVmERzoq0hLCderAG41Dxf4u3XeePWz2nn3xvUVJVyhbgvBkVIHcx4VMXK1WV2BL780f7Onio5EW1NhWwF62u55jmHYVyV_rdBT_6cvO6ELd8ZoovUhmvmpJq2Rmqc/s1600/Day3_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNvs2u8l0qISN3GkVmERzoq0hLCderAG41Dxf4u3XeePWz2nn3xvUVJVyhbgvBkVIHcx4VMXK1WV2BL780f7Onio5EW1NhWwF62u55jmHYVyV_rdBT_6cvO6ELd8ZoovUhmvmpJq2Rmqc/s640/Day3_2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dusk in the impromptu parking lots around <i>Erdene Zuu </i>monastery</td></tr>
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While I have no photos to convey the experience, we camped along the Orkhon River in a spot where I camped in 2014 that had been easily accessible from the town of Kharkhorin but not remotely crowded. This year I did not factor the glut of tourists coming for the <i>danshig naadam </i>into my equation. The night rang with the songs and laughter of multiple camps around ours, broken by the crunch of tires as vehicles passed near our tents. The flashes of headlights and then flashlights lit up our tents as passers-by agreed that our site was a good one and promptly crowded up to our little camp all through the night. A very <i>danshig naadam </i>camping experience!<br />
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Note: apologies for the long break between posts. Within the next week I plan to wrap up the rest of the 5 Days of July set and move on to other business. Then I'll only be two months behind, instead of three!<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-45678984000670014122015-08-09T04:53:00.003-07:002015-08-09T04:53:39.073-07:005 Days of July - Day 2: Yak attack!The second morning of my 5 Days in July began with a calm, rosy sunrise over the rolling hills west of Khujirt. (All photos courtesy of Reade L. and Kenny L.)<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8RAew331roAFGlWCYVoM80JYmYwCS4gTZHn71U2hcB1NoG8HK3e8ygaMIUNobApEorgEDeuHLeocrUBs2SQTPTmaT_oJpHvJlB0dAPHGJsXh4NX63Zro4yDvoP-4Z4-oYiQSTuB2gek/s1600/IMG_1665.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP8RAew331roAFGlWCYVoM80JYmYwCS4gTZHn71U2hcB1NoG8HK3e8ygaMIUNobApEorgEDeuHLeocrUBs2SQTPTmaT_oJpHvJlB0dAPHGJsXh4NX63Zro4yDvoP-4Z4-oYiQSTuB2gek/s640/IMG_1665.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good morning, Uvurkhangai!</td></tr>
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Following on last summer's traditions, I made American <i>gambir </i>(no eggs, no milk pancakes) for breakfast on one of the propane cook stoves.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihNXQ7pJWpsHsoS9ln09J4iHQMuZpZWa6E2A-Yqq1_NJI1R8fVCWQGhyV5d_hcvT-4pXLKiUERicL9BtJcqsBiFBnuqJ2RkyIkZmi9F3q-965EsOdaCPy_XdEsJjWfro6JWu2r3AiyfrA/s1600/IMG_1668.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihNXQ7pJWpsHsoS9ln09J4iHQMuZpZWa6E2A-Yqq1_NJI1R8fVCWQGhyV5d_hcvT-4pXLKiUERicL9BtJcqsBiFBnuqJ2RkyIkZmi9F3q-965EsOdaCPy_XdEsJjWfro6JWu2r3AiyfrA/s640/IMG_1668.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making American <i>gambir </i>for breakfast out of the back of the <i>furgong</i></td></tr>
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But the morning was rushed in order to get to the yak festival for the opening ceremony, which supposedly began at 11am. We had hours over very rough roads between us and our destination. Luckily we traveled through some of the most scenic countryside in Mongolia, the Orkhon National Park:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdn3VVr4rAeY8V8kpBxZ-ihVXoMvcMY4p_U20_3MVO47n28UlR9f5ytonxPwl1-g4nCfYbLv_PLaoH-khCiynMEDUlzQ8YhJnrIfPQkHwQMvaSMg37FNco31IAgPmZn9i-Nu1HVYk2l6M/s1600/K14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdn3VVr4rAeY8V8kpBxZ-ihVXoMvcMY4p_U20_3MVO47n28UlR9f5ytonxPwl1-g4nCfYbLv_PLaoH-khCiynMEDUlzQ8YhJnrIfPQkHwQMvaSMg37FNco31IAgPmZn9i-Nu1HVYk2l6M/s640/K14.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Overlook at the entrance of the Orkhon National Park</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2SFzEELJhQ9D4JQbgtgdZ93Ee4zc6aLA-qvsKOVhB_JO-USZaoClRTexhTFFuLS-mR5EGD5854RkOSLyk63NA8KNgFfISzJDCbg2xwpQRK_lIT6USyt4OyJOMbyfynRZE4YX_hCy9GDw/s1600/IMG_1677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2SFzEELJhQ9D4JQbgtgdZ93Ee4zc6aLA-qvsKOVhB_JO-USZaoClRTexhTFFuLS-mR5EGD5854RkOSLyk63NA8KNgFfISzJDCbg2xwpQRK_lIT6USyt4OyJOMbyfynRZE4YX_hCy9GDw/s640/IMG_1677.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px; text-align: center;">Hanging on to a weird caution sign at the edge of the Orkhon National Park overlook for dear life!<br />
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Once we entered the park, we headed past the small <i>soum </i>center of Bat-Ulzii, along and over the various rivers and streams of the Upper Orkhon delta.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvK7GLdPzrYX-nLt987fyVYfOJNFrJ4fLCs3ulLnCe8E4R18J_Nvtad_0vL87mm4Cky2Qlst-g24gHYIl-oJBLVAlBSADLndaJi4vtBFDd-p1sCKQuRB5-BXuApXPLaxOV91hK2wsO2Ho/s1600/K21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvK7GLdPzrYX-nLt987fyVYfOJNFrJ4fLCs3ulLnCe8E4R18J_Nvtad_0vL87mm4Cky2Qlst-g24gHYIl-oJBLVAlBSADLndaJi4vtBFDd-p1sCKQuRB5-BXuApXPLaxOV91hK2wsO2Ho/s640/K21.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiny waterlilies dot the slow stream along our road to the yak festival</td></tr>
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This part of Mongolia is yak country: higher altitude means colder temperatures well suited to the yak constitution. The mountains and hills lining the Upper Orkhon River valley are forested with dark pines and cut through with small river valleys dotted with white <i>ger</i>:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxttktHVnx86-3HanpWT0I6jj0ZrD1JJU755JW2fXaSaIiHcChIwRQhlk8syRFwCWO8c707ywTzLSWwtWY8eqn4sGAc6RWtE7Uw-ms9NDFS9M_6z7FTjX9qxOXXgWPwHPp1iZcHcQMyNo/s1600/K22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxttktHVnx86-3HanpWT0I6jj0ZrD1JJU755JW2fXaSaIiHcChIwRQhlk8syRFwCWO8c707ywTzLSWwtWY8eqn4sGAc6RWtE7Uw-ms9NDFS9M_6z7FTjX9qxOXXgWPwHPp1iZcHcQMyNo/s640/K22.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bat-Ulzii submarine: a yak cools off on a hot July morning</td></tr>
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After a few stall-outs and rough river crossings, we reached our destination: the 2015 Uvurkhangai province, Bat-Ulzii county yak festival!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg66u8wR4F9u0kRLa3wQl_0pWVAS9uwV1OYSWmyYS64nKJoD1rkapuBaUhNaX7Wxrrorn0u8lvKDsEZbOf8JA_EzctVzMs_NGpgfa-YGdpNjZyA3-vX5IIP2hp5K5CpjTaMo3NuBHf-RNw/s1600/IMG_1704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg66u8wR4F9u0kRLa3wQl_0pWVAS9uwV1OYSWmyYS64nKJoD1rkapuBaUhNaX7Wxrrorn0u8lvKDsEZbOf8JA_EzctVzMs_NGpgfa-YGdpNjZyA3-vX5IIP2hp5K5CpjTaMo3NuBHf-RNw/s640/IMG_1704.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Travelers and locals came by every possible means from far and wide to see the 2015 festivities</td></tr>
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Our luck for the day only improved, as shortly after our arrival we met last year's Most Beautiful Yak, this splendid fellow:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFBpiBJkM-sRAru7pz6I60yc7KT8XGLguw9C0-YFaqXxmgEjnJ9d1Beo3b8VyKzHdsSuHELU3ytf12l9YQkUVmufbW7HwnGSFchzxUe4YLNnfOjSvkL4f8et3ppnpcBF6rzKr5J0A1lUc/s1600/K24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFBpiBJkM-sRAru7pz6I60yc7KT8XGLguw9C0-YFaqXxmgEjnJ9d1Beo3b8VyKzHdsSuHELU3ytf12l9YQkUVmufbW7HwnGSFchzxUe4YLNnfOjSvkL4f8et3ppnpcBF6rzKr5J0A1lUc/s640/K24.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The most beautimous yak in Uvurkhangai Province 2014. But how will he fare in the 2015 competition?</td></tr>
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The stars aligned and I was finally able to realize a long-time dream of riding a yak. I never would have guessed I'd be so lucky as to ride a prize-winning yak!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9jTyeCJbiVuiDWl_5NfdQWmh5g7vYcXjCCDaePeKV-gLu826XRGhpahyEY9twYBCk83EE90Irj3aLB4ZBNVB4SkqqPC3rm0UD6SPXxvqtwMAItHPbAXx1VsD261y6ehoLPEfdzzaJ4eU/s1600/K26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9jTyeCJbiVuiDWl_5NfdQWmh5g7vYcXjCCDaePeKV-gLu826XRGhpahyEY9twYBCk83EE90Irj3aLB4ZBNVB4SkqqPC3rm0UD6SPXxvqtwMAItHPbAXx1VsD261y6ehoLPEfdzzaJ4eU/s640/K26.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yak riding; no hands required!</td></tr>
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As you can see from the above photo, a yak's withers or shoulder is much higher than its rump. The saddle is nothing more than some padded fabric or carpet with no stirrups. However, the yak's slow and steady gait make for an extremely easy ride.<br />
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Despite fears to the contrary, we hadn't missed the opening ceremonies of the 2015 yak festival. Although almost an hour late, we were almost an hour <i>earlier </i>than the Master of Ceremonies, which gave us plenty of time to walk to the Orkhon River to cool down. Our path converged with that of several yak herds fording the river.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbJNzWBbwxNiO7BhG7gjw3ADXoJpDAX1Dl0VFP9a0ufG8SVvtlNkp8nqXjfhTlitQQ8o1hlwDsXltFwJuqYR56nYejICLoypZ7iorH42U_AGBctWvMSDaPY3Od318yN3KJ12wVOcqaPtU/s1600/K35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbJNzWBbwxNiO7BhG7gjw3ADXoJpDAX1Dl0VFP9a0ufG8SVvtlNkp8nqXjfhTlitQQ8o1hlwDsXltFwJuqYR56nYejICLoypZ7iorH42U_AGBctWvMSDaPY3Od318yN3KJ12wVOcqaPtU/s640/K35.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baby yak with a blue <i>khadag</i> around its neck</td></tr>
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Up close, these tassel-tailed and dish-faced ungulates make lots of grunting noises, which supposedly earned them their Linnaean name, <i>Bos grunniens</i>, which means "grunting ox". Yak and cattle interbreed in Mongolia, producing half-yaks (<i>khainag</i>) and quarter-yaks (name escapes me). To the best of my knowledge, scientists don't have yak domestication or modern yak genetics nailed down. Anyone looking for a research project: you should consider yaks!<br />
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Just as the last stragglers were crossing the Orkhon River, several horsemen trotted up and told us that these were mass escapees from the yak festival. They proceeded to ford the river and turn the yaks back. Much grunting, hooting, and splashing ensued, as the herd reluctantly turned back.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Herders driving the yaks back across the river towards the festival</td></tr>
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The yak herd was successfully driven into the main arena for yak busting, were pedestrian yak herders would lasso a yak and then attempt to stay on a non-riding yak's back as long as possible. The yaks did not enjoy being surrounded by people, horses, and vehicles, and were particularly displeased by the blaring speakers of the MC.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yaks nervously await the beginning of the yak wrangling</td></tr>
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This bunch below looked as if they planned to make a hasty getaway through our section of the audience. Luckily they changed their minds!<br />
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All the spectators had a great opportunity to see the variety of coat color and quality amongst the yaks, as well as the <i>khainag </i>and quarter-yaks, as they waited nervously in the arena.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWt6qliA56YRZTidrtHzinfvqP7yLg62G-ayXYQC5dTxpDXYoHw_O05l_nDjZwtw5UkjR1idRx60XF8QK7gcXmekoqqUc22Mdx11d_j_D6DrrO_4KWOX_pP8j2slR6QhX1LiM20e3Ses/s1600/K50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmWt6qliA56YRZTidrtHzinfvqP7yLg62G-ayXYQC5dTxpDXYoHw_O05l_nDjZwtw5UkjR1idRx60XF8QK7gcXmekoqqUc22Mdx11d_j_D6DrrO_4KWOX_pP8j2slR6QhX1LiM20e3Ses/s640/K50.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another little cutie rounded up with its mom and entire herd for the yak wrangling competition</td></tr>
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Without much warning for the yaks, the lassoing began:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1_qa1zqEpGiEbiG4pa_XNrANKZ1PlMXFF0Qq8qfsZlO6DNt5Fszdah7gGbVHCdKiwUDoUIl2FTK1fjW4r1OhN0gkWY1qM9tk6DDeJ8o9VSISt4nHeE9RW-hnnS_I7wz7jZVg-YXI9Djc/s1600/K51+-+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1_qa1zqEpGiEbiG4pa_XNrANKZ1PlMXFF0Qq8qfsZlO6DNt5Fszdah7gGbVHCdKiwUDoUIl2FTK1fjW4r1OhN0gkWY1qM9tk6DDeJ8o9VSISt4nHeE9RW-hnnS_I7wz7jZVg-YXI9Djc/s640/K51+-+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lassoed!</td></tr>
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Yaks seem to favor passive resistance, standing their ground while a given yak herder tugs on the rope in vain. Eventually one would be wrangled forward, held by at least four herders, while the yak buster (my term for the guy trying to ride an unbroken yak) got ready to jump on. While yaks can't get the lift-off that broncos can, it must be tough trying to stay on an unwilling yak:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglm60yldohPQLbtwjaQajQtJ1ghHs51QBR23yvRIHMIjnnZgKSdQer_AdZJkpPuJOdFueY5R_E7Spbhnif_MqHrEHds8oV739lgwpnIQqH4vDHMcz4g_jx34kI4wts4_nW4FH3VwNYokQ/s1600/K52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglm60yldohPQLbtwjaQajQtJ1ghHs51QBR23yvRIHMIjnnZgKSdQer_AdZJkpPuJOdFueY5R_E7Spbhnif_MqHrEHds8oV739lgwpnIQqH4vDHMcz4g_jx34kI4wts4_nW4FH3VwNYokQ/s640/K52.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hardest part of yak wrangling isn't the lassoing, it's what comes after</td></tr>
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Kenny got some phenomenal shots of yak busters mid-fall:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7MmSgUbYLaRFSaKkhfEWXR79HRyWgaNiCfT9yBDTXIfzt3wtV8h_Kwu1EEllS2zstSI874vWuNImu6CwW8pObYR8K-mSQl0R0A4EmXUrIeUgkoDlmK8niZWiqaoej0LKnsY5DQi6lR8/s1600/K53.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7MmSgUbYLaRFSaKkhfEWXR79HRyWgaNiCfT9yBDTXIfzt3wtV8h_Kwu1EEllS2zstSI874vWuNImu6CwW8pObYR8K-mSQl0R0A4EmXUrIeUgkoDlmK8niZWiqaoej0LKnsY5DQi6lR8/s640/K53.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another one bites the dust!</td></tr>
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The large yak herd was then released so that the trained yaks could start their race across the steppe. Unlike the yaks from the yak busting competition, these yaks are used to being ridden, have septum piercings, and are basically responsive to their riders.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwj1nAU-UcOvvg0yV6WBM2F9kQgstnoqpjpQHGJM7Gm4g_tTewfoqXLS8rF4u_ua5tYnFDlsR7Ya15JqiyxqdUKMahxWRW1TIGAwVX_nJHrAxW5WUPO0aCVDEI-raUbrmv3-8PtUzKjaQ/s1600/IMG_1773.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwj1nAU-UcOvvg0yV6WBM2F9kQgstnoqpjpQHGJM7Gm4g_tTewfoqXLS8rF4u_ua5tYnFDlsR7Ya15JqiyxqdUKMahxWRW1TIGAwVX_nJHrAxW5WUPO0aCVDEI-raUbrmv3-8PtUzKjaQ/s640/IMG_1773.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Racers head to the starting line for the yak race</td></tr>
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Many of these yaks would go on to compete in the beauty contest and polo match.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQl4hL_SfW_Hqi0EFEUpLP2V2LsEPJsZ_e-GT6CyU6LSkmSEdszEqzsJLzmgRAx3ZvKizeP4V4UFBdtW13aQcmJ_I_UQaqDDW2uAueQ920xVX1sYZ_RrnmClgle-wRBj5HqWTHEgV3tv4/s1600/K54.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQl4hL_SfW_Hqi0EFEUpLP2V2LsEPJsZ_e-GT6CyU6LSkmSEdszEqzsJLzmgRAx3ZvKizeP4V4UFBdtW13aQcmJ_I_UQaqDDW2uAueQ920xVX1sYZ_RrnmClgle-wRBj5HqWTHEgV3tv4/s640/K54.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The littlest yak-racer: this kid and his young yak were the smallest competitors in the yak race</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The yaks and their riders walked several kilometers from the festival grounds in order to race to the finish line amongst the spectators.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvRNvu_GSMEvRFUPwXpwkEoU89RUH0mMmNN8rdhtPfI3RJ5HouQexnduywTrSToWdUrI6pZRPr8lehpmPFcFp7-IscHvavaF2IKVG4MUK4gXuywiZkwfBY6n-tpvQq72-faU4W_lo8m_I/s1600/K55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvRNvu_GSMEvRFUPwXpwkEoU89RUH0mMmNN8rdhtPfI3RJ5HouQexnduywTrSToWdUrI6pZRPr8lehpmPFcFp7-IscHvavaF2IKVG4MUK4gXuywiZkwfBY6n-tpvQq72-faU4W_lo8m_I/s640/K55.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There goes our guy: the Most Beautiful Yak in Uvurkhangai 2014 heads to the starting line</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
From the finish line, it was hard to tell when the yak race began. But once it got underway, the loping beasts and their determined riders lumbered across the plain towards us:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6gP4GhF47cQ1PNWVkwfTaAx0_i-GpnCkI3kKM1Dc61wn8gt8haZ0Sd_q-EDWCQknpZacJBDPkhyphenhyphenVSaG30O8WzDbMcpl6ytwMHhRukL6DgzPG2vOUn7gLG5LwQaQzO2jgx1_ynEzvn3Os/s1600/K57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6gP4GhF47cQ1PNWVkwfTaAx0_i-GpnCkI3kKM1Dc61wn8gt8haZ0Sd_q-EDWCQknpZacJBDPkhyphenhyphenVSaG30O8WzDbMcpl6ytwMHhRukL6DgzPG2vOUn7gLG5LwQaQzO2jgx1_ynEzvn3Os/s640/K57.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Racing towards the finish line, the first yak outstrips the herd as the racers near the yak festival grounds</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The first five or so yaks ran at a decent clip and managed to properly cross the finish line without walking or skirting the line all together.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlaHo0MU6Ev0Bl5CTRJL1Q2u2azjC-UIucqzn5BLaoICVrZVliQqivrZGkw8GZG8NkD6J5O-1phckqnqgj6Sfp6a5C2HrHS3gjXzNA79RKsosI5MmfozId-5KrXgJecF96YuovdJy0Sqo/s1600/K58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlaHo0MU6Ev0Bl5CTRJL1Q2u2azjC-UIucqzn5BLaoICVrZVliQqivrZGkw8GZG8NkD6J5O-1phckqnqgj6Sfp6a5C2HrHS3gjXzNA79RKsosI5MmfozId-5KrXgJecF96YuovdJy0Sqo/s640/K58.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brawn over beauty: last year's most beautiful yak didn't win the race</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To everyone's delight, the little boy and his little yak finished in the top five:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibHuj90Vql1jjggigzqfSkiI48i0mLNIjn2l9vx7s02C4ubTKlgP81yJdM9xnVu8E83p3uKsVL1JXkjeRUfcFMCKW3xUJOfC8WeNH9xf3zCCFVMp1B-Wfv1COuhR-x-as_mp6WbSrAB5o/s1600/K59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibHuj90Vql1jjggigzqfSkiI48i0mLNIjn2l9vx7s02C4ubTKlgP81yJdM9xnVu8E83p3uKsVL1JXkjeRUfcFMCKW3xUJOfC8WeNH9xf3zCCFVMp1B-Wfv1COuhR-x-as_mp6WbSrAB5o/s640/K59.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The little yak and rider that could!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After the speedier yaks had finished, the stragglers heaved themselves over the finish line with much prodding and encouragement from their riders. Many of the yaks seemed put-out at having to run several kilometers under the blazing midday sun for no apparent reason; one registered his dissatisfaction by skipping out on the finish line and running to join his pals.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-oOHlIn2mr8LOwHeGRunRUiZ_tXXrlNGxJapwgRrwOgZCL8dK5vemEpiO2kbC04XkGgvOM7urieC-FVY9kb_gGoBwqG2XsOm8KEUZGPR_nmOI_cC-LYGZUbB-23tXvJv0t7fNPrl7SeE/s1600/K60.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-oOHlIn2mr8LOwHeGRunRUiZ_tXXrlNGxJapwgRrwOgZCL8dK5vemEpiO2kbC04XkGgvOM7urieC-FVY9kb_gGoBwqG2XsOm8KEUZGPR_nmOI_cC-LYGZUbB-23tXvJv0t7fNPrl7SeE/s640/K60.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Valiant effort: trying to make a full-grown yak run when it really just wants to stand in the river all day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The festival organizers decided to award the prize to the little boy on the little yak, although they had not finished first. This was partly a function of the fact that no one had bet money on the actual winner and partly to reward the boy for his excellent showing. The racing yaks took a short break before being led once more into the arena for the beauty pageant:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBYHpoNEnfjJlfx6hC7VgD1sE6vASynPxqo05lUvldtpIoamyii8Ib90c7AF1K7HE9y5g4za9d0JssMsyTqkeeUWEzpQ6aSmuQKFNkEh8XnZo2u70hjbJfc0zS_lVVi_EWEZvOmYZlJyQ/s1600/IMG_1811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBYHpoNEnfjJlfx6hC7VgD1sE6vASynPxqo05lUvldtpIoamyii8Ib90c7AF1K7HE9y5g4za9d0JssMsyTqkeeUWEzpQ6aSmuQKFNkEh8XnZo2u70hjbJfc0zS_lVVi_EWEZvOmYZlJyQ/s640/IMG_1811.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yak beauty contest: a parade of the most beautiful yaks in all of Uvurkhangai Province</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The criteria for yak beauty were never clearly announced or explained. Certainly all the yaks parading in the pageant were large and had luxurious coats; other than that, I couldn't spot a consistent feature. There were males and females, horns of different size and orientations, different coat colors, and different tack and accoutrements:</div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuJpdXbaK5c8SWFYA96LlmoPb3-Wo-0K0gCeajc4t6eXJUDBMfKJ1u4NZHzQ-Oxcf-DEPny-srrSoUPw3cOxxawg9JAaVwOnWmDa_P61k9q0013CMgVSkvAPXnxCp3Spcg-z7J_NQeSlo/s1600/K63.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuJpdXbaK5c8SWFYA96LlmoPb3-Wo-0K0gCeajc4t6eXJUDBMfKJ1u4NZHzQ-Oxcf-DEPny-srrSoUPw3cOxxawg9JAaVwOnWmDa_P61k9q0013CMgVSkvAPXnxCp3Spcg-z7J_NQeSlo/s640/K63.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A prize-winning yak wears his medals on his forehead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNq7Qy9HjvtzaWBinph_9osL4UQgoXe213fBrMqhM1oBZa5Y7aoYmJ01LBqhMKbflMUSw4jqVVrpuj2aEjmK_vfk3Krw5_9cmPP4kcBwjUeAxHIIyhhFDlTOHfExkqUaYXjoMw8q3N2g/s1600/K65.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNq7Qy9HjvtzaWBinph_9osL4UQgoXe213fBrMqhM1oBZa5Y7aoYmJ01LBqhMKbflMUSw4jqVVrpuj2aEjmK_vfk3Krw5_9cmPP4kcBwjUeAxHIIyhhFDlTOHfExkqUaYXjoMw8q3N2g/s640/K65.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A particularly fine saddle and fringe</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5mz7-JLDhCsZf1aE95RdY12NedRr3HtQ8-UpubcHqFvQss0f7eFU1TGtp7p-2WBbA8IjI6p64zMWJ_-sEb-BtCLdWjwCUB_SO_BkSQrnvMEXoSZ8UNJGiMbUywE6871ws3skI283rQY/s1600/K67.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5mz7-JLDhCsZf1aE95RdY12NedRr3HtQ8-UpubcHqFvQss0f7eFU1TGtp7p-2WBbA8IjI6p64zMWJ_-sEb-BtCLdWjwCUB_SO_BkSQrnvMEXoSZ8UNJGiMbUywE6871ws3skI283rQY/s640/K67.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our fellow: he would shortly win this year's yak beauty contest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
One of the participants even selected himself for entry into the pageant:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJTnuKC3uoEdt6LMNK9aSwuyvc2c0Rs0WFm3bqrglDKpqgrA8A3TWcGTUuSoHurfHSeLH5iPTrOkAfmBVSyEMn29pYkU3GIL6rWnVhIVz3xb2_354aiJOpq-K98i8t3XC12EaxyN3MC0/s1600/K62.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTJTnuKC3uoEdt6LMNK9aSwuyvc2c0Rs0WFm3bqrglDKpqgrA8A3TWcGTUuSoHurfHSeLH5iPTrOkAfmBVSyEMn29pYkU3GIL6rWnVhIVz3xb2_354aiJOpq-K98i8t3XC12EaxyN3MC0/s640/K62.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This fellow was either driven into the yak beauty contest sans handler or wandered in on his own, having decided that he wanted to compete. He was a particularly fine specimen and remained very dignified as his competitors circled him.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Our fellow, the 2014 pageant winner, was crowned again this year, making him the Most Beautiful Yak in Uvurkhangai Province two years in a row. The competitors took another break before the yak polo match as spectators on horseback crowded around the arena.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu8n5z1b4OR4wytASdO8evCVxWunWoWLfsKfIS6fJloZiJSBysFJzucbhT6gr1MKxX1HhqVHGb_95oHCMH-pV-qH78xBd0lyNsrkkNDohH2kd48vSNstqroq1crcwxbcFlgzpukY8qDgo/s1600/K68.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu8n5z1b4OR4wytASdO8evCVxWunWoWLfsKfIS6fJloZiJSBysFJzucbhT6gr1MKxX1HhqVHGb_95oHCMH-pV-qH78xBd0lyNsrkkNDohH2kd48vSNstqroq1crcwxbcFlgzpukY8qDgo/s640/K68.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horse buddies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEcBqAr7smm7iUOaqB8_5h6AsE7Eijl-q-qMQ6WspFAoCLWOXiw27RpuFg-4uwaCSaVdbRWQW60LmqOD0tG8eidA9c4MzXeUfqz94u5QKWFpQbcWhDl8UaU_28z90T7BIhYKY1Zw3jNVI/s1600/K76.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEcBqAr7smm7iUOaqB8_5h6AsE7Eijl-q-qMQ6WspFAoCLWOXiw27RpuFg-4uwaCSaVdbRWQW60LmqOD0tG8eidA9c4MzXeUfqz94u5QKWFpQbcWhDl8UaU_28z90T7BIhYKY1Zw3jNVI/s640/K76.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The long, flowing tail is one of the signature traits of the yak. When startled, excited, or at a full run, yaks will raise their tails like a banner behind them.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Finally the highlight of the festival came: yak polo!<br />
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXQoyNpEVFtlSoIE8_Xf66Zfh47j-Sb9sgVtnFQAPNOr9qZ8nlYto_csQSKp1p18auNSZyToFkQfACSE1vWvds3urd-75s8ektjMlPe_ZO-7S8KJGPkzDrmoqhLF0f9FnZr5M8co-0McE/s1600/IMG_1930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXQoyNpEVFtlSoIE8_Xf66Zfh47j-Sb9sgVtnFQAPNOr9qZ8nlYto_csQSKp1p18auNSZyToFkQfACSE1vWvds3urd-75s8ektjMlPe_ZO-7S8KJGPkzDrmoqhLF0f9FnZr5M8co-0McE/s640/IMG_1930.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yak polo: half the speed and twice the fun of regular polo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9lB9h0Gd7Y0pU_qDJltFr_0QU18h3xJk2ij3pjd6awaT8tqvLkXNUkUOdVJKqd9nCG7-EArn7gHfsGGc3_pov63FTdUKxw_AaTnekltYYBvJ8NIA4P7AwKpJTzDJMmzVAw0vcDuyxitY/s1600/K70.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9lB9h0Gd7Y0pU_qDJltFr_0QU18h3xJk2ij3pjd6awaT8tqvLkXNUkUOdVJKqd9nCG7-EArn7gHfsGGc3_pov63FTdUKxw_AaTnekltYYBvJ8NIA4P7AwKpJTzDJMmzVAw0vcDuyxitY/s640/K70.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was surprised that more people and yaks didn't get clocked with polo sticks. One polo player had a particularly deadly windmill technique that somehow didn't crack anyone's skull (that we know of)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuKVlLwbPNmEWRTLDmmShRm3GZi0XdYcZMpMxJlBAu77EISreV0ynwVyVV_cAmYEapCbbXsEvowC0rxI-j47HyK9QcNJtfQXybXtoSvhfDg6kItfsXRjcPaGlbgVAZwNKZkr_-34syfM8/s1600/K72.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuKVlLwbPNmEWRTLDmmShRm3GZi0XdYcZMpMxJlBAu77EISreV0ynwVyVV_cAmYEapCbbXsEvowC0rxI-j47HyK9QcNJtfQXybXtoSvhfDg6kItfsXRjcPaGlbgVAZwNKZkr_-34syfM8/s640/K72.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Going in for a goal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Yaks - reluctant, slow-moving, and often unresponsive to commands - make for the biggest challenge to the polo players. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_eyHJUoMf_oZavFjV0Jp09KOX91LO9i-nKxmEtG4emvjk6G9HiDhcjdB-1X9URpIXL_KpMHVUnahoTPrBHYFHqeOS4Luk17c-gl3OGLhYDTr6deKILwh3ahkyaWYqqgxLM6UKyTMAesc/s1600/K73.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_eyHJUoMf_oZavFjV0Jp09KOX91LO9i-nKxmEtG4emvjk6G9HiDhcjdB-1X9URpIXL_KpMHVUnahoTPrBHYFHqeOS4Luk17c-gl3OGLhYDTr6deKILwh3ahkyaWYqqgxLM6UKyTMAesc/s640/K73.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who will get there first? Half the challenge is getting your yak to stop backing away from the ball</td></tr>
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There were a number of falls during the match, although no one seemed particularly hurt. When one player fell and declined to remount, his wife scolded him for being a wimp!<br />
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The polo players broke at least four sticks in the course of the match, as players frequently clashed their sticks together and occasionally hit an opponent's yak (by accident). Brave spectators and helpers would then rush out onto the pitch with a replacement stick.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where's the ball?!? Half the time, a yak would inadvertently stand over the ball while the spectators would yell out tips on how to get at it</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Goal!</td></tr>
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The match was made up of three games: two semi-finals and the final round. There were two teams that played with a lot more enthusiasm, skill, and aggression than the other two; no huge surprise who made it into the finals!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Victory run, sticks up!</td></tr>
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At the end of the match, I honestly couldn't tell you who'd won. I'd been a bit distracted and all of the players seemed equally delighted with the end of the game. At the yak festival, everyone's a winner!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdIYEZKYkglAHoaB-CABtdPAHljHzRHKas4UaNuPt-at1nAmgLS6EB6bd0Act2tg6UsUPCDKbOhyazuLlfdbJBuOWrtvAkm0f_G4DY0mLIHDyBkTrQXj7iKP9LpS7oK45NEBwiFsX57T8/s1600/IMG_1812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdIYEZKYkglAHoaB-CABtdPAHljHzRHKas4UaNuPt-at1nAmgLS6EB6bd0Act2tg6UsUPCDKbOhyazuLlfdbJBuOWrtvAkm0f_G4DY0mLIHDyBkTrQXj7iKP9LpS7oK45NEBwiFsX57T8/s640/IMG_1812.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Visiting with local fellows watching the yak polo match</td></tr>
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Yak festivals are not a traditional form of entertainment or celebration. They began around Mongolia, like the Eagle Festival in Bayankhongor <i>aimag</i>, to promote tourism and industry by focusing on a region's special features. The Uvurkhangai yak festival seems to be a joint venture of provincial government, local government, the local tourism industry (especially local <i>ger </i>camps), and local producers of yak goods. That said, this festival drew far more Mongolian spectators than foreigners, and the local Mongolian spectators were possibly more enthusiastic than the outsiders.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Relaxing as the yak festival winds down</td></tr>
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From my perspective, non-Mongolians often get very caught up in notions of authenticity when it comes to Mongolian events, products, and ideas. Many would understandably argue that a yak festival is not an authentic Mongolian festival, as opposed to a <i>naadam</i>, and dismiss it. However, all traditions were invented and I found the Uvurkhangai yak festival to feature more local involvement and less commercialism than the National <i>Naadam </i>by a long shot. Such festivals are a really positive way to encourage local and cottage industries in Mongolia, especially those that rely upon and thus support herding communities, by getting the word out about activities and products specific to a region. <br />
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For example, yak wool should really be considered on a level with cashmere. It's soft, warm, and durable; my warmest socks are yak-wool socks purchased here in Mongolia. Yak hair also makes excellent ropes that are easy to handle but hard to fray or break. If the vendors at the Uvurkhangai yak festival, of which there were only a handful of locals, had been selling sweaters, hats, socks, or mittens, I would have snapped up as much as I could afford.<br />
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By the afternoon our group decided that we should move on towards the night's campsite. On our way, we stopped at the Upper Orkhon waterfall:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVbRBZ9pJZhyd8e6A86roVP-PkPLkC1XGee9CrtoFJmyalG_qGrUfYomZjYvKFSbWN1N8jRU7dJ69PVxmakMFirNZBBcBQfwBgc_AGH6KB6ljX1l_PeHnvcJ_hUOyJPQEYIzp6Px_ahrk/s1600/K79.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVbRBZ9pJZhyd8e6A86roVP-PkPLkC1XGee9CrtoFJmyalG_qGrUfYomZjYvKFSbWN1N8jRU7dJ69PVxmakMFirNZBBcBQfwBgc_AGH6KB6ljX1l_PeHnvcJ_hUOyJPQEYIzp6Px_ahrk/s640/K79.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Ulaan tsutgalan</i>: the Orkhon waterfall</td></tr>
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The waterfall is where the Orkhon River transitions into a deep canyon lined with trees through much of the Orkhon National Park.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View into the tall forest within the Upper Orkhon River canyon</td></tr>
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By a great stroke of luck, we ended up camping along a gorgeous spot at the top of the canyon. The views were incredible and the refreshing smell of trees and river water on the breezes whipping up from the canyon were glorious. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsOWsjEWl2keLKZlRsIuWTbjIjmIHjBiwOXqPmUrg29h3F13LuIuSgVruEFoCVJ4I0kSgIL9y9yLTdA_WCZdPJZ7jxm1kL1CfEJEQdy1H7o9dtcQ08jbDVwDG3xbg2V6OON0s0og_SXPk/s1600/IMG_1955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsOWsjEWl2keLKZlRsIuWTbjIjmIHjBiwOXqPmUrg29h3F13LuIuSgVruEFoCVJ4I0kSgIL9y9yLTdA_WCZdPJZ7jxm1kL1CfEJEQdy1H7o9dtcQ08jbDVwDG3xbg2V6OON0s0og_SXPk/s640/IMG_1955.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting up camp along the Upper Orkhon canyon as a yak herd passes us by</td></tr>
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Several of us took an early evening dip in the river by scrabbling down a path into the canyon. There we met a very nice man who works in local government, who later told us a bit about the site we were camped near:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs7ekJSSrP2EG7ARH5hWxtq_N_EfA9ZI4VePk6aCWLCJBqRZT-VL0EPpPOfW9tURQD-LQKDl92gq_v2Z9KeXiI_t0GBVMKaZuw9F8Zpsa209Xc-69jFAcqGCemJzoOx3JO-RneoHqHVyQ/s1600/K86.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs7ekJSSrP2EG7ARH5hWxtq_N_EfA9ZI4VePk6aCWLCJBqRZT-VL0EPpPOfW9tURQD-LQKDl92gq_v2Z9KeXiI_t0GBVMKaZuw9F8Zpsa209Xc-69jFAcqGCemJzoOx3JO-RneoHqHVyQ/s640/K86.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shaman site along the Upper Orkhon River canyon. A local family was planning to burn the stack of wood the next day during the shaman's visitation and ritual.</td></tr>
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He and his family had arranged for a shaman to perform a ceremony here the following night. The ceremony was intended for the spirit of the river, <i>lus</i>, but we were assured that we were allowed to sleep nearby (as long as we didn't do anything to offend the <i>lus</i>)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMnMor3UtRt6lsZv2Y1oaHFgBRUu0g6DbFYNMnwyH1pZ0lWbovuSl7jzhJaxbzRTd4zpBK7aZEr6ImLVFZ2RscmTZd-8uK5IJHdfw-SUIB_qlpoqhsmN6ZYvRU5hONcRqNp8ZBttqmsUY/s1600/K87.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMnMor3UtRt6lsZv2Y1oaHFgBRUu0g6DbFYNMnwyH1pZ0lWbovuSl7jzhJaxbzRTd4zpBK7aZEr6ImLVFZ2RscmTZd-8uK5IJHdfw-SUIB_qlpoqhsmN6ZYvRU5hONcRqNp8ZBttqmsUY/s640/K87.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shaman will perform inside the small protective circle of white stones</td></tr>
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In all my years traveling through Mongolia, I have never seen a site quite like this one. I have seen hundreds of <i>ovoo</i> - the sacred rock cairns found on hilltops, mountains, roadsides, and other important places - but none with this particular configuration. While I would be interested to learn more about this site and the shamanic practices held there, shamanism is not a matter for casual dabbling.<br />
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As sunset faded into twilight, we sat around our campfire and listened to the rush of the river and wind through the pines below. The next morning would take us away from this beautiful place, but we would camp along the banks of the Orkhon River again and again as we and it wound through Central Mongolia.<br />
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<i><br /></i>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-58397558121662107342015-08-06T06:02:00.000-07:002015-08-06T06:02:05.444-07:005 Days of July: Day 1 - Camels and Kittens2015 has been a busy summer largely spent in Ulaanbaatar. To break up my urban routine, I organized a 5-day vacation out to the 2015 yak festival in Bat-Ulzii, the <i>danshig </i>in honor of the 380th anniversary of <i>Undur Geegen Zanabazar</i>, and the site of my first archaeological expedition to Mongolia, <i>Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu</i>. I thank Kenny L. and Reade L. in advance for their gorgeous photos in this and subsequent 5 Days of July posts!<br />
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Day 1 was focused on getting out of Ulaanbaatar (about 2 hours behind schedule, but who's counting) and covering as much terrain as possible. It was a sweltering July day on the long road west. Our <i>furgong - </i>decommissioned Soviet army van - was like a sauna on wheels.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXPEIVNBc38BRFdTzyMqlEvWp0YZm0mRPMY_wG_CgVdlGMN8Pv_wtXTvBp0yd230ypp5aK2N0_xdop-crT0ae_-w0cKU5Eol0xjS4i-iRdbOY0EagRXvnpCLy-RxKY55WJIyoXUiIGFok/s1600/IMG_1629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXPEIVNBc38BRFdTzyMqlEvWp0YZm0mRPMY_wG_CgVdlGMN8Pv_wtXTvBp0yd230ypp5aK2N0_xdop-crT0ae_-w0cKU5Eol0xjS4i-iRdbOY0EagRXvnpCLy-RxKY55WJIyoXUiIGFok/s640/IMG_1629.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">The sweaty drive from UB to points west<br />
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About 4 or 5 hours from UB, we broke up our journey with some camel riding in the sand dunes of Elsen Tasarkhai on the border of Bulgan and Uvurkhangai provinces.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Elsen Tasarkhai sand dunes and the mountains of the <i>Khungun Tarna</i> Protected Area in the distance</td></tr>
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We arranged to ride with Bilge, the good-natured patriarch of a camel herding family that lives near the sand dunes in summer. When we rolled up to their encampment, no one was home. A few minutes later, a parade of camels and riders loped along the flat towards us:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHCkLk2CaayDO2LYU7T8QQMQ9uZgOI0iPqJnTiQcqyIIoe62o1qitntr9u9iFPzv14Oqm-svfsCuRNXNIN1BCuGxjx2z3k4_BRIfXuekK5tuF3bz_JPW7i7DRkx0AKHmB61tvDxX2AQVs/s1600/K2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHCkLk2CaayDO2LYU7T8QQMQ9uZgOI0iPqJnTiQcqyIIoe62o1qitntr9u9iFPzv14Oqm-svfsCuRNXNIN1BCuGxjx2z3k4_BRIfXuekK5tuF3bz_JPW7i7DRkx0AKHmB61tvDxX2AQVs/s640/K2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Bactrian camel with a summertime coat and carpet saddle. <i>Temee </i>is 'camel' in Mongolian.</td></tr>
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Bilge and his relatives sorted us by size and selected our camels. As is typical, our young camel guides didn't want us steering ourselves at first, and had us connect the line/reins from our camel's septum piercing into a camel train. All of Bilge's riding camels are gelded males (<i>aht</i>) between 5 and 12 years old. The older the camel, the larger it gets. The 12-year-old camel, ridden by the tallest man in our group, is at least 6 inches taller at the shoulder than all the other camels. <br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj-FEwVzyPSLM93wegW7r7dUK6MjfhTCeVBTyZko-69c7wYHEhUXtPkPHAguJlOPpIv_oPhOzMGQxNQi5PnTdSFOSHvZhJRYyn-4VX2ooecYdlP3q3MrJPIfAtmRgC_OxiqOaSEt_OyzY/s1600/K10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj-FEwVzyPSLM93wegW7r7dUK6MjfhTCeVBTyZko-69c7wYHEhUXtPkPHAguJlOPpIv_oPhOzMGQxNQi5PnTdSFOSHvZhJRYyn-4VX2ooecYdlP3q3MrJPIfAtmRgC_OxiqOaSEt_OyzY/s640/K10.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">This camel's septum piercing is held in place with plastic bottle caps</td></tr>
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Unlike horses, which can be controlled by a bit in the mouth, camels are like yaks and cattle, in that they are controlled by a septum piercing (puncture in the flesh between the two nostrils). My experiences with horses lead me to believe that horses have much more sensitive mouths than their <i>Artiodactyla </i>neighbors (horses are odd-toed ungulates and thus belong to the Order <i>Perissodactyla</i>) and do not need the full intervention into the very sensitive nose that camels, yaks, and cattle seem to require. <br />
<br />
Horses can be subdued with a small rope loop around the upper lip called a twitch, which I have seen used during veterinary and ferrier visits. In the US, horse handlers will use this non-invasive method to calm and often practically immobilize a horse by tightening the twitch around its upper lip to distract the horse (although some argue that it causes the horse's body to release endorphins, explaining the unusual and immediate calm that comes with twitching). All of this indicates that the nose, especially the mucous-membrane-lined nasal passages, are very sensitive on these kinds of animals.<br />
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In Mongolia, I have seen camel and yak septum piercings made either of wood or metal. The piercings themselves may be held in place with bottle caps, rubber rings, or other similar items. My educated guess is that the older a camel is, the more sturdy his septum piercing (usually gelded males are the ones ridden), as the septum becomes less sensitive over time.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcUcy__al9ILm1OUEWnwNLDqtNCjAA69xpicxDlp5yvNn56t_YDJVC1f1fPfgxIzTKat_lPziPg5LnmIslSpSVR1QFo1G3cibZiIMnbRZfmV0ZqN1eZdeDGXUGM026vgaBP606_N3zjPk/s1600/K3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcUcy__al9ILm1OUEWnwNLDqtNCjAA69xpicxDlp5yvNn56t_YDJVC1f1fPfgxIzTKat_lPziPg5LnmIslSpSVR1QFo1G3cibZiIMnbRZfmV0ZqN1eZdeDGXUGM026vgaBP606_N3zjPk/s640/K3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Camelback view</td></tr>
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Riding a Bactrian camel is an entirely different experience than riding a horse. Wedged between the two humps, it's difficult to imagine how one would fall off a camel - although I'm sure people have managed it. The camel needs to sit, otherwise you don't have a prayer of getting into the saddle, and then you need to hang on as it stands, raising itself like a two-part hydraulic lift onto all fours.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrjiwBB1VuAy_ttfL7oihFa3vqUt54Fqjj8nQmPYvsqN_a64TFg5LU9-1035XJNS_GGV9oQ3VmP2SzxMNNg3em0_j2kV-lJnt6CyImrGI7uVXk2RydwtQoZXP_ZwRqjoucukUjclq4WBI/s1600/K4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrjiwBB1VuAy_ttfL7oihFa3vqUt54Fqjj8nQmPYvsqN_a64TFg5LU9-1035XJNS_GGV9oQ3VmP2SzxMNNg3em0_j2kV-lJnt6CyImrGI7uVXk2RydwtQoZXP_ZwRqjoucukUjclq4WBI/s640/K4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Ready to set off into the dunes. This photo is from when I was still 'city pale'.</td></tr>
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The riding itself is pretty mellow. While camels can trot and supposedly gallop, they mostly walk, giving the rider a feeling of being in a creaky rocking chair. To get a camel to speed up, the rider commands, "<i>Khog</i>!", and uses the line as a crop along the camel's shoulders. If you're not a pro, you may not get much reaction from your camel!<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IT35m_vlhj7oRTISZ6YKNCrLg6g2UJQO55H-LcSbCKSwrnNi39BUfBovPfqw3E93q9-PwJy-eYD-d7PqFQzJL2lOLdR1-XWRvAPcDXuSjwU2U1PgMTdkIwUVBue0LUQb3FUD_Yd_pQc/s1600/K7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IT35m_vlhj7oRTISZ6YKNCrLg6g2UJQO55H-LcSbCKSwrnNi39BUfBovPfqw3E93q9-PwJy-eYD-d7PqFQzJL2lOLdR1-XWRvAPcDXuSjwU2U1PgMTdkIwUVBue0LUQb3FUD_Yd_pQc/s640/K7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Day 1 group photo. Note that one camel is significantly larger than the rest due to his age.</td></tr>
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In addition to their towering size, Bactrian camels are fascinating, thanks to their knobbly knees and claw-like toes, which are double-jointed (must be seen to be believed). Kenny commented that they are almost like mammalian dinosaurs, which is a pretty apt description of their impossible necks and legs.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkxm437JOccc0ZRk1i8XnUEmv15sXCERVika6ozFWKMFdoWRLxpmQgPezDLH_PaHxR1MNuE043Lap7mb8_7VynwolcluzvG23e-dKED0Gxo4giH_Zqm2R8AuJMtl7VjE6_p0nbaeFnb-w/s1600/K8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkxm437JOccc0ZRk1i8XnUEmv15sXCERVika6ozFWKMFdoWRLxpmQgPezDLH_PaHxR1MNuE043Lap7mb8_7VynwolcluzvG23e-dKED0Gxo4giH_Zqm2R8AuJMtl7VjE6_p0nbaeFnb-w/s640/K8.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drinking from a *really* dirty puddle</td></tr>
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You can tell if a Bactrian camel hasn't had a drink in awhile: its humps will sag and flop over.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlOBOhBoA_kUUp9_g5EMkYRrQdFbvUWa8viRbuc_1ZbD5jQrzmLjHeEy_vnIDWRfWQBwJCX8jNM4lyOsmNAOvNL7zKSq03osDFratIBoSIh_QAY76zJGFhuBLAJYQ28Vn_4613W9zdTM8/s1600/K6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlOBOhBoA_kUUp9_g5EMkYRrQdFbvUWa8viRbuc_1ZbD5jQrzmLjHeEy_vnIDWRfWQBwJCX8jNM4lyOsmNAOvNL7zKSq03osDFratIBoSIh_QAY76zJGFhuBLAJYQ28Vn_4613W9zdTM8/s640/K6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking out from inside the Elsen Tasarkhai dunes</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ha7wgXs9meuvcOVemVfpRZ7ES8_VBPoeLO-qeu3KaNYp3HEn0f_gR4Py0WWWDenesmfY09807Y0BDFOekF9icYo2TZuW1EsXarA1t_-3DBZ3S8iYYNgRwLSmDH0NCbOxRLQKKhvBubI/s1600/K5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ha7wgXs9meuvcOVemVfpRZ7ES8_VBPoeLO-qeu3KaNYp3HEn0f_gR4Py0WWWDenesmfY09807Y0BDFOekF9icYo2TZuW1EsXarA1t_-3DBZ3S8iYYNgRwLSmDH0NCbOxRLQKKhvBubI/s640/K5.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up brought to you by Cover<strike>girl</strike>camel</td></tr>
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Although the sparse summer coat is less glorious than the luxurious winter coat, the Bactrian camel will retain its amazing long and thick eyelashes all year.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQc-DuFiErPbVYmHIbSfENt6q8D2lLrCMoHaWYmryfEh1Pmokj6PIKUpp34CUhjfCDUc6nfrfQRsDNEdWyujUAUW6F5wrq5n5awWilewp7oXOM4EL0MEzbFvh6cFllpA3mc0IAinzrPpo/s1600/K9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQc-DuFiErPbVYmHIbSfENt6q8D2lLrCMoHaWYmryfEh1Pmokj6PIKUpp34CUhjfCDUc6nfrfQRsDNEdWyujUAUW6F5wrq5n5awWilewp7oXOM4EL0MEzbFvh6cFllpA3mc0IAinzrPpo/s640/K9.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sheep and goats graze on the swampy flat just after a rainstorm</td></tr>
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Elsen Tasarkhai is literally a sandy cut through the steppe between Khungun Khan and the hills east of Kharkhorin. Immediately adjacent to the dunes the grass is green, providing fodder for camels and other domesticated herd animals.<br />
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Bilge's family had recently acquired a kitten. This unsurprisingly monopolized our attention when we were not on our camels.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgac-KistT_ZcF4H8tNnHmahjSV19ncq3i_NLZL6OLdiaNasaUZomoyYvFxTdqtfDQPrFjSFka8X2vW6XWzWvtNGlGMXt7PcJhAXKtZ5y7NPiz7oS5e2ADUyxCYgmwV_RFGd_4fZwRbg04/s1600/IMG_1454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgac-KistT_ZcF4H8tNnHmahjSV19ncq3i_NLZL6OLdiaNasaUZomoyYvFxTdqtfDQPrFjSFka8X2vW6XWzWvtNGlGMXt7PcJhAXKtZ5y7NPiz7oS5e2ADUyxCYgmwV_RFGd_4fZwRbg04/s640/IMG_1454.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The camel herding family's kitten: expert <i>ger</i>-climber</td></tr>
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Although very cute, the kitten was almost entirely indifferent to our presence, preferring to scamper about the camels, <i>furgong</i>, and <i>ger</i>:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcqD-pDBFLsz8n9dAfAI6TnGuVggo3A_zYH50ssDV1beuOyQxPq7ruCSzZcnunx-HH0ya-YO10OqCm3qc2cqfLEIN7h0oT5Q5ckASNXE3kl8l_Zty243wAbiLgdg3izm01-HD5-eiuBj8/s1600/IMG_1541.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcqD-pDBFLsz8n9dAfAI6TnGuVggo3A_zYH50ssDV1beuOyQxPq7ruCSzZcnunx-HH0ya-YO10OqCm3qc2cqfLEIN7h0oT5Q5ckASNXE3kl8l_Zty243wAbiLgdg3izm01-HD5-eiuBj8/s640/IMG_1541.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kitten and camels, just like this post promised</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGUs2S_-XFzmaudFpd-eMEtG4aseOx6z_Rxy2ncVBfAQGWWKvZa0N2AR4JbfGROQr6xHY-NBYA7JgR9w4dndlx42Arn4u3Qc3LLMgJLRZkYrxwmk-lfBf3hWfOOIEdiH43e9OrsVqoypE/s1600/IMG_1544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGUs2S_-XFzmaudFpd-eMEtG4aseOx6z_Rxy2ncVBfAQGWWKvZa0N2AR4JbfGROQr6xHY-NBYA7JgR9w4dndlx42Arn4u3Qc3LLMgJLRZkYrxwmk-lfBf3hWfOOIEdiH43e9OrsVqoypE/s640/IMG_1544.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just one more</td></tr>
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After our ride Bilge invited us into one of the <i>ger </i>for some <i>airag</i>, which was strong and tasty. We chatted for awhile and he kindly offered us the opportunity to help milk mares for <i>airag </i>production. To my chagrin, we needed to press on before the sun set, and we were forced to decline the generous offer. As the sun began to sink, we headed further west on paved road, as we needed to cover as much distance as possible in order to reach the yak festival in Bat-Ulzii by the next morning. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio7Rvm9Ven7LymhlEU-jW4n7ltWx8dVlbFeZimq0C288GB-TE4vTv8IMYhO7tzQfPOiQlzd_0sVUnJshFNzdmWh43AV30pS_9kGcooYAQ2RnCe-kIkwIfnHXNOTjsc44n8j7gB_w5g7nQ/s1600/IMG_1633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio7Rvm9Ven7LymhlEU-jW4n7ltWx8dVlbFeZimq0C288GB-TE4vTv8IMYhO7tzQfPOiQlzd_0sVUnJshFNzdmWh43AV30pS_9kGcooYAQ2RnCe-kIkwIfnHXNOTjsc44n8j7gB_w5g7nQ/s640/IMG_1633.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset and on the lookout for archaeological features</td></tr>
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Sometime after 9pm, we stopped on the rolling hills west of Khujirt to make camp for the night. Midsummer sunsets are late and spectacular in Mongolia:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiodLKh5sU0tjWVfEfAfp9f961MESlPsuW8f7avWPjZ3IBVBbqP_1e9upnq4gHMeoU1cVMDXFKrKE0VBm7o-mvMFwLYAa-_xakD6vG5nehnndVMP5NMkDCXgENTvsM6cL4K9LPpsuH7Z5I/s1600/IMG_1645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiodLKh5sU0tjWVfEfAfp9f961MESlPsuW8f7avWPjZ3IBVBbqP_1e9upnq4gHMeoU1cVMDXFKrKE0VBm7o-mvMFwLYAa-_xakD6vG5nehnndVMP5NMkDCXgENTvsM6cL4K9LPpsuH7Z5I/s640/IMG_1645.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally out of the <i>furgong </i>for the day!</td></tr>
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With a day of camels and kittens under our belts, we went to bed late with the promise of an early morning leading up to our ultimate goal: yaks!<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-82691649711892685712015-08-05T18:34:00.002-07:002015-08-05T18:34:20.112-07:00Mongolia Inside & Out 104 - AlcoholLast time in Mongolia Inside & Out, readers were treated to an info-dump of tips for dining in Ulaanbaatar along with some general comments on Mongolian cuisine. In the 103 post, I alluded to alcohol, particularly with recommendations for good beer in the capital. But alcohol in Mongolia merits an entire post of its own.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKIUIlqaypjpG6DybYzszN_8HLkVUDtRmSiDmMf3cihFvEpRll6YmCkBiYGt_wHMrngLRRcuG9A-cygU1-pzTIdPyarYbMK603tKrPSDaRTl3Jb6vgDA5kTJqmq5iUKjSrkrtpe6kGbI/s1600/Chinggis+arkhi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeKIUIlqaypjpG6DybYzszN_8HLkVUDtRmSiDmMf3cihFvEpRll6YmCkBiYGt_wHMrngLRRcuG9A-cygU1-pzTIdPyarYbMK603tKrPSDaRTl3Jb6vgDA5kTJqmq5iUKjSrkrtpe6kGbI/s400/Chinggis+arkhi.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chinggis: world-conqueror and premium-quality vodka</td></tr>
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A few words on drinking alcohol in Mongolia:<br />
<br />
Every
country has its own drinking culture, or numerous drinking subcultures.
Mongolia is no exception. The production, exchange, and consumption of several kinds of alcohol are significant components of Mongolian society. Official visits to someone's home, religious celebrations, national holidays, graduations, weddings, and office parties all involve vodka or some sort of alcoholic beverage (often <i>airag</i>, fermented mare's milk produced primarily at the household level).<br />
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<u>What to drink:</u><br />
But it's not all bad news: drinking culture in Mongolia includes a lot of merry-making, singing, jokes, and bonding. But what do you drink when you're in Mongolia? The primary alcoholic beverages you will encounter in Mongolia are the Big Three: vodka, fermented mare's milk, and beer.<br />
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<u>Vodka<i> </i>(<i>arikh</i>)</u><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8xCiRFCsU0_hNwbEq3Uun4sIxhUhlf-DpHpAKxYmx8300nifZNsrBUByiWtn3TmFxIrjNN8U444GWJ8ZUTHjp3BZdlNqcgqvIBruhpp9tfq-bUwtv-Zt79oNJK7qltN0Hus1vNL853oc/s1600/AbFab2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8xCiRFCsU0_hNwbEq3Uun4sIxhUhlf-DpHpAKxYmx8300nifZNsrBUByiWtn3TmFxIrjNN8U444GWJ8ZUTHjp3BZdlNqcgqvIBruhpp9tfq-bUwtv-Zt79oNJK7qltN0Hus1vNL853oc/s400/AbFab2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This photo is appropriate for my Mongolian vodka consumption experience on several levels</td></tr>
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<a name='more'></a><br />
On
vodka: imbibe with caution! If you attend any ceremonies or parties in
Mongolia, you will probably have to take at least one or two shots of
vodka. Sorry, there's not much way to get around it. Refusing food and
drink in Mongolia is very rude, although most Mongolians are too polite
to tell you that you are being disrespectful of your host, so just
accept the shot glass. Like with all items in Mongolian society, accept
your glass with both hands or your right hand (supported under the
elbow by your left hand) to show your host respect. You may observe
some of the older folks dip a fingertip into the vodka and flick outward
in several directions. They are offering some of the vodka to the
spirits and ancestors. Some argue that this practice originally arose
as a method of detecting poisoned drinks: let a little of the liquid run
down the finger to a ring. If the stone or metal of the ring changed
colors, the drink was poisoned.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: if you are
taking shots, touch the contents to your lips and then hold your glass
until everyone else gets distracted. Then surreptitiously dump the
contents in a corner and pretend to take your shot. You will not be
able to match your Mongolian friends shot for shot, so don't bother
trying. If you get caught, just laugh it off with good humor and take
the next shot without making a fuss (but go ahead and try to dump it again when you get your 2nd or 3rd shot). Note: this trick does not work unless you are 1) in a ger with a gap between the wall and carpet/flooring or 2) are out-of-doors; learn from my mistakes.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vXPF6I-b3FGYN_WJ5NcnYX8jDjB3YK2Rbiv3wEbz7OT4eqlWBzHqdSI3BsjeGGk8zNs2ZPwJXrQYpQ_luvpbyyp86ZjU4o8gSWJQhPFdRTlZl2jDRY0joaQL7kKD7imipZ4BXLdL3gM/s1600/2008_Arkhi+Uux.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5vXPF6I-b3FGYN_WJ5NcnYX8jDjB3YK2Rbiv3wEbz7OT4eqlWBzHqdSI3BsjeGGk8zNs2ZPwJXrQYpQ_luvpbyyp86ZjU4o8gSWJQhPFdRTlZl2jDRY0joaQL7kKD7imipZ4BXLdL3gM/s400/2008_Arkhi+Uux.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Or you can just tough it out and take your shot/bowl of vodka, as I did in 2008<br />
(Dundgovi Province)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Strictly speaking, vodka (<i>arikh</i>) is mass-produced domestically or imported from abroad. There are several variants of Mongolian moon-shine that are made by home-distilling milk products. These high-proof clear alcohols - <i>nermel </i>and <i>shimiin arikh</i> - are potent. I've heard different explanations for the differences between <i>nermel </i>and <i>shimiin arikh</i>, and I'm not buying it. The salient differences reside in the kind of milk which has been distilled: mare's milk vs. camel milk vs. cow's milk (I haven't hear of yak, sheep, or goat milk being used, but I wouldn't rule it out). However, I'm not expert enough for a detailed discussion on the finer points of Mongolian moonshine. Clearly, further research into Mongolian moonshine is required.<br />
<br />
Vodka is a common gift, although the donor risks having to share the bottle if the recipient decides it's time to enjoy the gift here and now. There are a number of high-end Mongolian brands that come in gorgeous, elaborate packaging partly due to the common practice of giving vodka as a gift on special occasions. Vodka is also used in traditional ceremonies; for example, while I am hardly well-versed on the intricacies of shamanism in modern Mongolia, my understanding is that a shaman may use vodka to entice the spirit into entering his/her body or to placate other spirits during a visitation. I can say with great surety that empty vodka bottles are left at <i>ovoo </i>worship sites all the time, likely as offerings, although I have never actually seen someone leave vodka at an <i>ovoo</i>. But with the number of bottles that pile up on the larger <i>ovoo</i>, it must happen quite frequently!<br />
<br />
<u>Fermented mare's milk (<i>airag</i>)</u><br />
<i><br /></i>
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lovely wooden bowl full of strong <i>airag</i> served to us at the Arkhust <i>Naadam</i> in 2015</td></tr>
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<i>Airag</i> is actually a staple of the Mongolian diet and one of the most important comestibles in Mongolian culture. <i>Airag </i>is
only made during the summer, when families who herd horses will tie
foals to a hitching line and milk the mothers every two hours. The
mare's milk is collected in a large container and 'pumped' with a huge
plunger constantly for days: every family member, irrespective of age,
has to do up to 1,000 pumps at a time. The alcohol content of <i>airag </i>is generally less than beer and children routinely drink <i>airag </i>without incident. Indeed, <i>airag </i>is a sort of food-drink combo that sustains many families throughout the summer when they prefer not to butcher their animals.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: do not eat something and drink <i>airag</i> in the same sitting. Trust me. You can eat a meal or you can drink <i>airag</i>; you cannot safely do both. Unless you want to start projectile-vomiting in front of your Mongolian friends and hosts, that is. <br />
<br />
In terms of flavor, <i>airag </i>is
an acquired taste. I would describe it as tangy, bubbly yogurt-beer.
The actual flavor profile and consistency varies wildly depending on the
region, the time of year, and how long the particular batch has been
fermenting. The best <i>airag </i>is made in <i>Saikhan soum</i>, <i>Bulgan aimag </i>(Saikhan county of Bulgan province), and a canny vendor will claim that his/her <i>airag </i>is from this area to increase sales. <i>Airag </i>gets strong as fall approaches and the vegetation dries out, although this can also happen earlier in areas impacted by drought.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: when you are offered a bowl of <i>airag</i>, take a small sip and sit with the bowl in your hands as you visit with your Mongolian hosts. You are never expected to down the whole bowl on your own in one sitting. In fact, it is considered back luck to drain a single bowl by yourself in one sitting, as it means that the mares will dry up for that season and produce no more milk. Instead, take a few sips slowly over a few minutes, and politely hand your bowl back to your host with both hands. Your host will refill the bowl and pass it to another guest in the <i>ger</i>.<br />
<br />
In addition to <i>airag</i>, Mongolians who herd camels produce something called <i>khoormog </i>(aka ингэний хоормог or <i>ingenii khoormog</i>), which is the camel's answer to fermented mare's milk. <i>Khoormog </i>can be distilled into its own version of <i>nermel</i>. I've only had <i>khoormog </i>once or twice, and I've never had camel's milk moonshine, but don't find it as flavorful as the best <i>airag</i>. On the other hand, I readily admit that I likely haven't had the best fermented camel's milk that Mongolia has to offer and am willing to suspend judgment until I can do a proper taste-test.<br />
<br />
<u>Beer (<i>shar airag</i>, <i>piv</i>)</u><br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying a cold <i>Kaltenberg </i>on the banks of the Orkhon River in 2015</td></tr>
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Beer is alternatively referred to as "yellow <i>airag</i>" (<i>shar airag</i>) or the Mongolian pronunciation of the Russian word for beer (<i>piv</i>, pronounced "peev"). While Mongolian beer hasn't gained global recognition, there are some labels that I, a non-connoisseur, really enjoy; admittedly the really cheap stuff like <i>Borgio </i>isn't much to write home about. In UB , you can go to a few places that brew their own beer (see Mongolia 102). Either in the city or increasingly in the countryside, try finding one of the following:<br />
<br />
-Chinggis: perhaps the best widely-served beer in Mongolia<br />
-GEM draft<br />
-Kaltenberg: yeasty and strong!<br />
<br />
Cheaper and more common alternatives include:<br />
-Senguur (my top pick amongst the 2nd-tier beers)<br />
-Altangovi (Golden Gobi)<br />
-Tiger (the non-Mongolian option)<br />
<br />
Many younger people have intentionally switched to drinking beer in the place of vodka, after seeing the effects of alcoholism on their families, neighbors, and society. Beer is unlikely to replace vodka, as vodka plays a role in numerous traditions and celebrations, but is increasingly popular amongst Mongolians. Wine, on the other hand, has been a bit less quick to catch on.<br />
<br />
<u>Drinking beyond the Big Three</u><br />
While one's options outside of Ulaanbaatar are mostly limited to beer, <i>airag</i>, and vodka (imported and home-made), things in the capital are quite different. The last 10 years have brought imported wines, cocktails, and other hard liquor to the watering holes, restaurants, and hot-spots of Ulaanbaatar. Here are some highlights:<br />
<br />
-Mojito House on Seoul Street does a mean passion fruit mojito, but avoid the Mind Eraser Tower unless you have a death wish<br />
<br />
-California (further west along Seoul Street) blends an amazing seabuckthorn mojito<br />
<br />
-Broadway Pizza - the T.G.I. Friday's of Mongolia - serves a delicious mango colada<br />
<br />
-Buy your own bottle of wine at World Wine (head southeast of the Beatles Statue and look for the basement level entrance) or in the wine shop attached to Nayra Cafe <br />
<br />
-L'Usine (first floor of Regency Apartments immediately east of the Children's Park) does the only whisky sour in Mongolia that I'm aware of<br />
<br />
-Bitter House (across the street from the now-closed Natural History Museum) serves a variety of delightful cocktails with a Mongolian twist<br />
<br />
-Veranda Terrazza in Zaisan Square, along with the flagship restaurant near Chojin Lama monastery, has an excellent wine list<br />
<br />
Not that you can't get wine or cocktails in the countryside. Almost anyone who's worked on a field project or done an extended volunteer stay in rural Mongolia will tell you about some concoction meant to replicate a 'fun' drink: the steppe martini (pickle juice and vodka) and the Khovd sunrise (orange Fanta and vodka) readily spring to mind. Some families make berry wines or liquors with indigenous herbs and plants, although you're unlikely to see these options in stores or restaurants. However, if you become friendly with someone who hails from the verdant parts of Mongolia - the <i>khangai </i>and further north - you may get a chance to try home-wines made from local berries or store-bought fruit.<br />
<br />
There is an unfortunate dark side to the numerous roles of alcohol in Mongolian social life. Alcoholism is a serious problem in Ulaanbaatar and rural Mongolia: domestic violence, assault, alcohol poisoning, liver disease, traffic collisions, and even deaths by misadventure (drownings and freezing to death during winter) are regularly linked to excessive consumption of vodka. Like other forms of substance addition, I think increased alcoholism in Ulaanbaatar (and, to a lesser extent, elsewhere in Mongolia) is linked to the stresses of transitioning from society as it was during the Socialist era to the increasing modernized, ever-changing city that is Ulaanbaatar today; in particular, the systematic dismantling of state social welfare programs, the disappearance of almost all industrial and factory jobs in the early 90s, and the ever-widening chasm between the rich and the poor in Mongolia. If this sounds like a familiar situation, it's because I believe that many of Mongolia's current problems are by no means unique; rather, Mongolia is struggling through the crises and contortions that most nations embracing global capitalism face.<br />
<br />
I highly recommend this post written by Brian White about alcoholism and alcohol consumption in Mongolia from 2014: http://www.themongolist.com/blog/society/90-alcohol-consumption-a-toast-to-data.html White makes the excellent point that per capita alcohol consumption in Mongolia actually falls behind many hard-drinking countries (including the US and Russia) and that a specific sector of Mongolian society seems to be driving the rate and volume of alcohol consumption tied to alcoholism (i.e., men between 25 and 50). The World Health Organization estimated that about 5% of Mongolian men were alcohol dependent in 2010 (http://www.who.int/substance_abuse/publications/global_alcohol_report/profiles/mng.pdf) and the United Nations Development Program reports that alcohol consumption is a factor in 72% of all serious crime in Mongolia (http://www.who.int/substance_abuse/publications/en/mongolia.pdf). While I haven't seen the hard numbers, I have heard from numerous sources that alcohol consumption, particularly hard liquor like vodka, is driving rampant rates of domestic violent and child abuse in the country (i.e., 1 in 3 Mongolian women are estimated to experience domestic violence in their lifetime: http://www.stopvaw.org/mongolia). [Note: one difficulty amongst many in analyzing domestic violence and child abuse in Mongolia, aside from under-reporting and cultural attitudes that such matters are private affairs that should not to be discussed in public, is that many advocacy and monitoring groups seem to inconsistently lump or split domestic violence, violence against women, child abuse, and sexual assault as categories in their analyses and reports]<br />
<br />
White's observations jive with my own experiences: while parties and celebrations usually involve heavy drinking, these aren't daily occurrences for most Mongolians (and are more on-par with hard-partying settings in plenty of places I've traveled to or lived in). In fact, I would say that most public drunkenness is either a function of late-night party-goers or (what I perceive to be) alcoholics who do not represent average Mongolian behavior or lifestyles. Alcoholics in Mongolia disproportionately seem to be working-class men noticeable from the outside for the severity of their addictions (passing out on sidewalks, fighting in the streets, etc.). However, the plural of an anecdote is not data, and I do not presume to be an expert on addiction and alcoholism in Mongolia.<br />
<br />
I would urge those visiting Mongolia, especially Ulaanbaatar, to be aware of alcoholism and its consequences. Make sure your driver is sober before setting off and, if you've arranged for a private driver for a countryside trip, confirm that your driver will abstain while working. This has rarely been an issue for me personally, but better safe than sorry. Do everything you can to avoid intoxicated people in public. If you see someone who you suspect is drunk in a public space, avoid eye contact, maintain physical distance, and try to move to a different location quickly and unobtrusively. The biggest danger comes when an inebriated person is able to make physical contact and, in my experience, most drunks on the street are too slow or far-gone to catch you if you walk quickly and keep your distance. While most alcoholics are more a danger to themselves than to others - every year drinking-related accidents and misadventures claim the lives of many heavy drinkers, from freezing to death outside in winter to drowning in rivers in summer - many of the Mongolians and non-Mongolians I know who have experienced interpersonal violence in-country have had unfortunate run-ins with drunken people (usually men) in public.<br />
<br />
But I hope that my readers will have positive experiences with alcohol when they visit or work in Mongolia. <i>Airag </i>and <i>khoormog </i>are mildly alcoholic beverages that you'll find few others places in the world; many of Mongolia's home wines are just as rare and unusual, and I will sing the praises of mimosa-esque <i>braash </i>until the cows come home; Kaltenberg, Chinggis, and GEM draft are genuinely tasty Mongolian-brewed beers; sipping a seabuckthorn mojito or <i>ukhriin nud</i> (gooseberry - more on Mongolian fruits and berries in a future post) cosmopolitan at a rooftop bar while watching the sun set over the hills west of Ulaanbaatar is one of the best ways to end a summer's day. So raise your glass and toast, <i>tuluu</i>!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-30122045074767722202015-07-31T21:29:00.003-07:002015-07-31T21:29:33.203-07:00National Naadam 2015: March of the Nine White BannersJuly 11th marked the beginning of the National <i>Naadam </i>celebrations in Ulaanbaatar. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">MIAT, the Mongolian national airline, wishes the Mongolian people a happy Naadam.<br /></td></tr>
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While I find the National <i>Naadam </i>to be a bit crowded and touristy for my taste, I was fortunate enough this year to escort the nine white banners of the Mongolian state from Parliament to the National Stadium for the opening ceremony. On a bright Saturday morning, I raced over to Chinggis Square (originally Sukhbaatar Square), where the honor guard carried the nine banners out of their home inside the Government Palace to be marched through the city center to the stadium.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A military band waits in Chinggis Square just south of the Government Palace to provide music for the entrance of the nine white banners</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The nine white banners head south from the square, carried by mounted honor guardsmen and mobbed by eager crowds</td></tr>
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The nine banners derive from the time of Chinggis Khan and the Mongol Empire, when hair from the tails of white horses and black horses were used to make the nine white and nine black banners, respectively. The nine white banners were used for times and missions of peace, whereas the nine black banners were used for war. During most of the year, the two sets of nine banners are housed inside the Government Palace, and the banners play important roles in state ceremonies for the modern nation-state.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Police and military personnel flank the honor procession as crowds march with the banners through the city</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the head of the procession</td></tr>
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It was hard to get a good shot of the entire honor procession because it stretched along several city blocks and kept moving at a reasonable clip, necessitating some jogging on the part of the crowds and guardsmen on foot. What's lost in these photos is the gradation of horse colors: the standard-bearers all ride white or light-colored horses, while the rest of the cavalry honor guard are on chestnut and bay horses, fading from light to dark as you look down the column.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Standard-bearers on light-colored horses</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Accompanying honor guardsmen on darker-colored horses follow behind the nine banners</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jogging to catch up to the cavalry: various military regiments in formation and full dress follow the horsemen on foot</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The process comes to a halt near the back entrance to the National Stadium</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closeup of the croups and other tack of the honor cavalry</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Change in formation: the standard-bearers form a single-file line in anticipation of entering the National Stadium</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The honor cavalry behind them follow suit</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the cavalry honor guardsmen rests in the saddle. His position - slightly up and over the saddle, wresting his weight on one thigh, is a typical way that riders in Mongol rest after a ride or sitting in the saddle for a long time.</td></tr>
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After switching to single-file formation, the honor guard entered a small enclave just outside the National Stadium filled with ballloon-vendors, street-food stands, and tricked-out old cars getting ready to parade through the stadium. The standard-bearers eventually dismounted, presumably to march the nine banners into the stadium on foot, but it was too hot for me to wait around until they made their grand entrance. And I wasn't even dressed in the heavy wool uniform or metal hats of the honor guard regalia!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVkhZ9yXxbvXuuTw2tqLfoonpR9O54zJZdwM5Ff1mLek_f7v0h55AVNrSh3nbGJygm3Xw-a6Z0t9ZkVwOEHbb8zxNQ-kvEHLIVtWAHviMLXrCT4YuZI27uSSa9yDteikVHb8ovNtTnCMI/s1600/NN15.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVkhZ9yXxbvXuuTw2tqLfoonpR9O54zJZdwM5Ff1mLek_f7v0h55AVNrSh3nbGJygm3Xw-a6Z0t9ZkVwOEHbb8zxNQ-kvEHLIVtWAHviMLXrCT4YuZI27uSSa9yDteikVHb8ovNtTnCMI/s640/NN15.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Holding area just outside the National Stadium. Each of the nine white banners is topped with a different trident shape</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The honor guard has dismounted in order to march the banners into the stadium</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Levity and contrast: military dress and shiny balloons</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Dunjingarav shopping center wishes you a Happy Naadam! The billboard depicts the three main Naadam sports: wrestling, horse racing, and archery.</td></tr>
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As I didn't have tickets to the coveted opening ceremony, which you can watch on TV in the comfort and cool of your own home, I walked back through the throngs of people drawn to the National Stadium for wrestling matches, archery, and <i>shagai </i>(ankle-bone shooting matches). It was a lovely start to the National Naadam and nation-wide summer vacation. But this morning was just one of many great summer adventures in Mongolia; stay tuned for more!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-1350996853980822662015-07-30T06:42:00.000-07:002015-07-30T06:42:12.974-07:00Mongolia Inside & Out 103 - Eating and drinking (mostly beer) in UlaanbaatarWelcome back to the Mongolia Inside & Out series!<br />
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The 102 post discussed the <i>ger </i>as an important part of Mongolian society and culture, along with a suite of related customs, themes, and ideas that shed a little light on the bigger picture (Mongolia). This time let's take a peek into food, drink, meals, and dining in Mongolia. Most of the 102 post will focus on experiences in the capital, which can be treated separately from dining in the rest of Mongolia (with some notable exceptions), as I plan to do a future post on the types and preparations of traditional food once I have better pictures. For now:<br />
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<u>Sustenance and succulence in Ulaanbaatar</u><br />
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Ulaanbaatar has undergone seismic shifts over the last 10 years in terms of the food and beverages available in stores, markets, restaurants, and bars throughout the city. For these and more practical reasons - hey, you'll need to know where to get a good salad in UB after weeks in the countryside, trust me - I think Ulaanbaatar merits its own post. Especially in the last 2-3 years, travelers and locals now have a decent variety of good options to choose from when they're out on the town or looking to buy groceries.<br />
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The Way Things Were, 2005-2007:<br />
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I remember when finding a few tiny green apples at the store was a rare treasure, and all ice cream seemed to be bland, freezer-burned, ice-encrusted, vanilla pre-loaded into wafer cones stored loose and unwrapped in a freezer bin along with unpackaged meat. Now you can get local greenhouse-grown spinach and cherry tomatoes, corn chips, cocoa powder, imported European cheese, a plentiful variety of fresh-baked breads and pastries, and tofu without breaking a sweat. <br />
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I remember when there were a handful of good non-Mongolian dinner options, practically no coffee shops (yes, Millie's served good coffee, but that is not a *coffee place* and they roasted their own beans because where else were they going to get coffee?), and Cafe Amsterdam was pretty much your only choice for breakfast (unless you wanted to break your budget at Kempinski or eat at 11am). Now you have so many choices that I can barely remember what it was like 10 years ago: sushi, Korean hotpot, vegan, Indian, Turkish, Chinese (and Xinjiang!), French, Mexican (we'll come back to that one), fried chicken, Japanese bakeries (yes, I mean bakerIES, plural), and on and on and on. I remember being really excited to get real hot chocolate in 2007. <br />
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Just recently someone complained on UB Foodies - a whole Facebook community devoted to the city's food scene - about a cappuccino that had too much foam. Ok, I'll take off my bifocals, put away the Werther's Originals, and get back to the heart of the post.<br />
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Because I've seen many a visitor struggle with getting a decent meal or finding a particular food item while in UB, I'm going to spend a significant chunk of this post attempting to rectify that situation.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><u>Dining in Ulaanbaatar</u><br />
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Note that these establishments in UB have short lifespans and many of these places may be gone within 6 months (or 3 months. Or tomorrow). However, I've made an effort to pick a number of places that have made it through at least a few years as well as a few newer places worth a try while you're in the city. <br />
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Imagine this: you've just arrived in Ulaanbaatar after hours and hours traveling by plane and taxi. Congratulations, you finally made it to Mongolia! You likely want to have authentic Mongolian food for your first
meal. Let me advise you to hold off on actual Mongolian cuisine until your body has adjusted to the climate.<br />
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For starters, the best Mongolian food is almost exclusively in the countryside. The quality of the ingredients in traditional cuisine is much higher when you're at the source: where the herds are grazing, the milk is flowing, and the berries and wild herbs are growing. Summer party food like <i>khorkhog </i>(steamed BBQ using heated river rocks) and <i>boodog </i>(hot stones sewn inside the carcass) are for picnics, parties, and eating out of doors. Having either at a sit-down restaurant is like eating a candy bar with a knife and fork: you can do it, but why would you? <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwncYvhgPGKouuUjNh4BPoiF07cNPyJz7e3vb4R9rweHXeYdcJ7zSPwErZTP8xtnuGrDbhtxX4n2iWRwdFO7PlzVOWMrqX46TY6GHTy7CiJy4IcFbgecjErHe2ghq4rnKDUIdIBKByVrs/s1600/Seinfeld+candy+bar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwncYvhgPGKouuUjNh4BPoiF07cNPyJz7e3vb4R9rweHXeYdcJ7zSPwErZTP8xtnuGrDbhtxX4n2iWRwdFO7PlzVOWMrqX46TY6GHTy7CiJy4IcFbgecjErHe2ghq4rnKDUIdIBKByVrs/s640/Seinfeld+candy+bar.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the equivalent of eating <i>khorkhog </i>in a restaurant in UB. <br />
Yes, this is a Seinfeld joke; I am very hip to the youth culture.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, if you're determined to have a Mongolian meal straight away, don't go to a nice-looking sit-down restaurant for a real
Mongolian experience in UB. A lot of sit-down restaurants will have little/no Mongolian cuisine on the menu. Chains that specialize in 'traditional Mongolian cuisine', like <i>Modern Nomads</i>,<i> </i>are a huge ripoff: expensive, mediocre food at best, and incredibly touristy. Instead, try a <i>buuz </i>(steamed dumpling) place or a <i>guanz </i>(Mongolia's answer to the greasy spoon). I recommend <i>Bayalag Buuz </i>on the east side of the State Department Store: cheap, fast, and tasty.<br />
<br />
So, what kind of Mongolian food would you like to try first? Mongolian cuisine uses very little spice and tends to fall in a very narrow range of flavors (i.e., meat flavor). You don't go to a Mongolian place for salads, desserts, or spices!<br />
<br />
PEDANT'S CORNER: Mongolian BBQ, Mongolian hot pot, Mongolian stir-fry, or almost anything in North America that gets called Mongolian food is decidedly NOT Mongolian. My understanding is that some marketing guru decided to brand a version of Chinese food "Mongolian" in order to broaden the appeal of mediocre dishes. There are almost no actual Mongolian restaurants in North America. Mongolian food is heavy on fried and steamed meats, light on the vegetables and spices, and served in ample portions. While Mongolians do enjoy grilled meat, the more traditional methods are steam-pressure cooking (<i>khorkhog</i>, <i>boodog</i>), boiling, and frying. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Mj2yvxPK3KTr2_lj43Jr3jkwuQXzU_LdKU9sLhwpBW7SqvaMgLkaKKuz_cUopaddOJRrtavFrSt3gMgjGuSDpzUmsLcdO8nNrWxj6L6sbdzQR5RkvT6rJgFsHrDFPeYMgVXHiaOIGTI/s1600/Wikipedia+MNG+BBQ.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Mj2yvxPK3KTr2_lj43Jr3jkwuQXzU_LdKU9sLhwpBW7SqvaMgLkaKKuz_cUopaddOJRrtavFrSt3gMgjGuSDpzUmsLcdO8nNrWxj6L6sbdzQR5RkvT6rJgFsHrDFPeYMgVXHiaOIGTI/s400/Wikipedia+MNG+BBQ.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BD's Mongolian Grill: decidedly NOT Mongolian food (image courtesy of Wikicommons)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
You can get most Mongolian cuisine at any <i>guanz </i>in the capital or countryside. The only dishes that take some advanced prep time or special arrangements are <i>khorkhog </i>and <i>boodog</i>, which I've already strenuously advised people to eat in the countryside rather than in UB. So what *is* Mongolian food? Here are some pretty standard options that give you a sense of authentic Mongolian food as it's prepared in the city (although you can get most of these dishes at restaurants and cafes anywhere in the country):<br />
<br />
-Бууз/<i>buuz</i>: steamed dumpling filled with mutton (sometimes beef) and maybe some diced onions or spices (maybe!). Order 3 or more <i>buuz</i>; folks with big appetites can eat dozens in one sitting.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiiwf-xjPP8OLqnFnB6I2z_ZMfU2HWu-PnaTweSFnSr_46h80aa-eqx2Ed-z2ZjhAzO_-ym17m_ZJ8LbvJYl0IVV_evAm6nxKWduVCGQD_E6_bMStcsdvL5_S8L_oWtzSqUFDQrmZ61bc/s1600/2010_Hunter_buuz1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiiwf-xjPP8OLqnFnB6I2z_ZMfU2HWu-PnaTweSFnSr_46h80aa-eqx2Ed-z2ZjhAzO_-ym17m_ZJ8LbvJYl0IVV_evAm6nxKWduVCGQD_E6_bMStcsdvL5_S8L_oWtzSqUFDQrmZ61bc/s400/2010_Hunter_buuz1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plate of expertly-pinched home-made <i>buuz</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
PRO-TIP: suck the gravy/drippings out by biting into the dumpling, then eat the <i>buuz</i> in one bite.<br />
<br />
<br />
-Хуушуур<i>/khuushuur </i>(pronounced <i>HO</i>-<i>shur</i>): a flat fried dumpling, much greasier than <i>buuz</i> but with similar filling. Watch out for hot drippings!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbpAdR3ozjiYPlTLeSFcBfm5xT-NZ7w9uSt6do4n_z87I9eZArpimoIvcEfSz1Ufwhsijc_jrFPteUvuZxhyphenhyphensQG8H-lxQNIHzxB2wg2FfRFf3NDFpHxwTPdSu01OLHsPFqtaY7qU-ztNw/s1600/Khuushuur+wikipedia.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbpAdR3ozjiYPlTLeSFcBfm5xT-NZ7w9uSt6do4n_z87I9eZArpimoIvcEfSz1Ufwhsijc_jrFPteUvuZxhyphenhyphensQG8H-lxQNIHzxB2wg2FfRFf3NDFpHxwTPdSu01OLHsPFqtaY7qU-ztNw/s640/Khuushuur+wikipedia.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Khuushuur</i> (courtesy of Wikipedia)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
-Цуйван/<i>tsuivan</i>: Mongolian wheat noodle stir-fry. You will get a heaping plateful of thick noodles, strips of mutton (fat and gristle, too), and some vegetables (sliced carrots, red and green peppers, maybe potato) depending on the chef. Order only if you are starving because you will never finish a whole plate, unless you are Andre the Giant. Check out David Dettmann's entry on <i>tsuivan </i>for more information and a handy recipe: https://asianmarketsphilly.wordpress.com/2015/07/24/a-mongolian-favorite-stew-fried-noodles-with-mutton/<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: liberal use of the Mongolian ketchup (red bottle) will brighten up this heavy meal.<br />
<br />
-Гурилтай шөл/<i>guriltal shul</i>: noodle soup in a clear broth. This lighter option is healthy yet filling. The standard recipe is thick wheat noodles, mutton chunks, carrot, potato, and garlic.<br />
<br />
-Будаатай хуурга/<i>budaatai khuurag</i>: stir-fry with rice. The ingredients are similar to <i>tsuivan </i>but without so much grease or any noodles. Again, the variety will depend on the chef.<br />
<br />
-Сүүтэй цай/<i>Suutei tsai</i>: Mongolian milky tea. Don't be fooled: milky tea is savory in Mongolia, not sweet! The base is standard black tea boiled with salt, milk, and sometimes butter and even flour. If you spend any time in Mongolia, you will absolutely drink some milky tea, either in a <i>guanz </i>or with someone's grandma in her <i>ger</i>. Each region and family varies the standard recipe, so pay attention to the different flavors during your travels in Mongolia.<br />
<br />
So you want to order food in a <i>guanz </i>or restaurant in Ulaanbaatar: how do you start? Get a menu and ring the table dinger. Or call out, <i>zoogch oo</i>, to get your server's attention.<br />
<br />
LANGUAGE:
Don't worry about not being able to speak Mongolian: just point at the
menu or food items you can see. But here's a little language primer for
ordering a basic meal if you want to try out some Mongolian:<br />
<br />
Авья.<br />
<i>Ah-VII</i><br />
I will have (that) [i.e, whatever you are pointing to] - this is one of the most useful phrases for ordering, shopping, etc. in Mongolian. For example:<br />
<br />
Би <u>гурван бууз</u> aвья.<br />
<i>Bee <u>GUR-van boudz</u> ah-VII</i><br />
I would like <u>three buuz</u>.<br />
<br />
Би хү<u>йтэн цэвэр ус</u> авья<br />
<i>Bee <u>KHUI-ten TSE-ver ous</u> ah-VII</i><br />
I would like <u>cold bottled water</u><br />
<br />
<u>Цуйван </u>гарах уу?<br />
<i><u>TSUI-van</u> gar-ah-HUU?</i><br />
Do you have <u>tsuivan </u>(today)?<i> </i><br />
<br />
<u>Тооцоо </u>хийе<br />
<i><u>Tow-TSOO</u> KHEE</i><br />
I'd like to pay <u>the bill</u><i> </i><br />
<br />
Many
restaurants and cafes only have menus in Mongolian. However, these
menus often have pictures of most meal options to help you
choose/guess. You may happen upon a place with English-speaking
waitstaff, but don't count on it.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: Have a
back-up meal and drink option in case the restaurant is out of your
first-choice item. Keep your ears open for this phrase: <i>baikhgui </i>(BAKH - gwei). <i>Baikhgui </i>is
used in all sorts of settings; in this case, it means "we don't have
any of that". Even pretty nice places often have a bad case of the <i>baikhgui</i>s; when looking at a menu, I pick at least two options for my food and drink so that <i>baikhgui </i>doesn't throw me for a loop.<br />
<br />
d)
Recommended places: UB has gotten a lot more cosmopolitan in recent
years and options for eating out have greatly expanded. However, you're
going to struggle a bit if you want to eat before 9am or after 10pm.
Here are my recommendations - current July 2015 - for your time in UB:<br />
<br />
<u>Cheap Mongolian food: Bayalag Buuz</u> <br />
Location:
east side of the State Department Store. Go to the Adidas store and
turn right into the little side street, head down the stairs (watch your
head!), and find their little cafeteria buzzing with activity.<br />
<br />
Bayalag Buuz is inexpensive, fast, and decent quality given the setting. In my experience, they're less afflicted by the <i>baikhgui</i>s than most other <i>guanz</i>, likely because they are a high-volume operation. The ladies behind the counter also seem pretty used to foreigners, and will be relatively patient with your lack of Mongolian but very, very unlikely to speak or understand much English. <br />
<br />
Food pick: <i>mantuun buuz</i> (man-TOON bouz), a steamed mutton dumpling in a thick yeast-risen flour dumpling.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Cheap Korean food: Mama's or any place on the road running northeast of the State Department Store</u><br />
Location:
the two city blocks northeast of the State Department Store currently
have at least three Korean joints that serve tasty food at low prices.<br />
<br />
The Mongolian palate is traditionally averse to spicy foods, so Korean (even the Mongolian version) can be a welcome switch-up. Each place is slightly different but all serve decent mainstream Korean dishes. The menus might have some English but the staff usually don't. David Dettmann again has a list of more options if you're really craving Korean while in UB: https://asianmarketsphilly.wordpress.com/2014/11/08/ulaanbaatar-post-2-korean-ub/<br />
<br />
Food pick: Kimchi jigee if you're hot, Bibimbamp if you're not<br />
<br />
<u>Vegan and vegetarian: Loving Hut near the central Trade & Development Bank</u><br />
Location: on the block southeast of the intersection north of the Flower Center in a row of shops, banks, and other restaurants.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi9IMf7mH81RrCG1SJo737ejYb4Zv8F_NdN7SPBArl_xBmiFW9y7OtKC2wDWnTY_zaqBWESAj1V38HrcLVpX3boHXuY3ZmhbGGIarxVmwrFtivBUUYzJocpHKV0eB01vHK1lMRu8gTHq4/s1600/Loving+Hut1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi9IMf7mH81RrCG1SJo737ejYb4Zv8F_NdN7SPBArl_xBmiFW9y7OtKC2wDWnTY_zaqBWESAj1V38HrcLVpX3boHXuY3ZmhbGGIarxVmwrFtivBUUYzJocpHKV0eB01vHK1lMRu8gTHq4/s640/Loving+Hut1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cheerful entrance of the recommended Loving Hut location (photo from http://www.lovinghut.com/mg/)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The
staff speaks some English and they have an English-language menu.
Loving Hut is a chain (Korean, I think?) but this location feels like a quaint family-run diner. Everything on
the menu is vegan, a rare find in the land of meat and milk, and quite tasty! Plus, the
prices are very reasonable, especially considering how expensive fresh
vegetables are in Mongolia. Loving Hut is a great choice for a quick lunch while you're on the go. They currently offer daily lunch sets at only 6,000MNT (less than $3) that will have you full until dinner time.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMs7PaE2374PHkNJFXU_c4KF8Boj56WOqkRlob4bTnMQrDuOyTG3_Xox8MNKHI-DLdJHVWdbt6goFn4bhIbuPUwSV20VGFOFDn9XC-LicJi5lt-auH-kvkonO7DvfgaDdO_hpmJsbsjAk/s1600/Loving+Hut2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMs7PaE2374PHkNJFXU_c4KF8Boj56WOqkRlob4bTnMQrDuOyTG3_Xox8MNKHI-DLdJHVWdbt6goFn4bhIbuPUwSV20VGFOFDn9XC-LicJi5lt-auH-kvkonO7DvfgaDdO_hpmJsbsjAk/s640/Loving+Hut2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside Loving Hut: plenty of light and seating (photo from http://www.lovinghut.com/mg/)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Food pick: Macho Burrito<br />
<br />
<u><br /></u>
<u>Indian food: Namaste</u><br />
Location: on <i>Baga Toiruu</i> (the Little Ring Road) between Metro Mall and the Chinese Embassy. It's on the west side of
the street and has a large sign. Go inside and up the stairs to their
two-room dining area. The friendly English-speaking staff will help you
immediately. There are two other locations, but I've found the <i>Baiga Toiruu </i>branch to have the best food.<br />
<br />
Namaste is a little pricier and better for groups
than single diners. On the other hand, it's one of the best restaurants
in UB, providing absolutely delicious
food and great service over the years. It's not trendy at the moment,
so you're almost guaranteed to sit immediately. Every time I've eaten at Namaste, everyone in my party raves over the food. The waitstaff speak English fairly well and the menu is in English.<br />
<br />
Food picks: Butter chicken; fish masala; mango lassi; naan basket<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Burgers: Ruby Room</u><br />
Location: about one block northeast of the State Department Store but set back behind a row of low-roofed shops on the west side of the street.<br />
<br />
Ruby
Room is UB hipster paradise - the trendy young staff and clientele will
make you feel like you've stepped into a 21st-century John Hughes movie
- and home to the best burgers in Mongolia. The manager speaks English
and is usually there, there are English-language menus, and they have
(as of writing) Jack Daniels on the shelf. The burgers are heavenly:
juicy, charbroiled, and come with a variety of toppings. But the fries
are less great and they often have a rather limited selection of beers.<br />
<br />
Food pick: Baconator<br />
<u><br /></u>
<u><br /></u>
<u>Breakfast/cheap: Nayra Cafe</u><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7cm_mN8vx9uBFQcps8iQuN9F2j71Dqi96a-McBfxQD-_O1aVwsnul0HVAHN9e97t4hrMcp0SqhNK81hBxx_Sf0Vbqyc-7QlqFjhB5hC4zRQeHnqogBdFDFZlo_6y6bkMbAUsMeuWmnU/s1600/Nayra1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7cm_mN8vx9uBFQcps8iQuN9F2j71Dqi96a-McBfxQD-_O1aVwsnul0HVAHN9e97t4hrMcp0SqhNK81hBxx_Sf0Vbqyc-7QlqFjhB5hC4zRQeHnqogBdFDFZlo_6y6bkMbAUsMeuWmnU/s640/Nayra1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nayra's storefront (photo courtesy of happyhourkid on virtualtourist.com)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Location:
just west of Builder's Square and the Zanabazar Museum. Head north
along the east side of the State Department Store, turn right at the
light, and look for the little cafe on the north side of the street. Walk straight through the mini-mart to the stairs at the back and head into the dining area:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyRIM4mhKxH5ySJX_Orfsbb92kknTE6fcflEv5CDKSQ0uiT6TjXMiUwGOvnVZCaJTsK0sus9q1KPFRZlj-S_6KcB6H8GUlg9gmeSCB1A_8U1kkTv0Tnvd6MX92hSZbfvRFJCHktkiBtUo/s1600/Nayra2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyRIM4mhKxH5ySJX_Orfsbb92kknTE6fcflEv5CDKSQ0uiT6TjXMiUwGOvnVZCaJTsK0sus9q1KPFRZlj-S_6KcB6H8GUlg9gmeSCB1A_8U1kkTv0Tnvd6MX92hSZbfvRFJCHktkiBtUo/s400/Nayra2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barista at work behind the counter at Nayra's <br />(photo courtesy of happyhourkid on virtualtourist.com)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
An institution in UB, Nayra is a long-time favorite amongst expats and locals looking for a caffeine fix and a quiet place to read, work, or chat. Nayra
doesn't open until 9am but serves pancakes, omelets, and very good
coffee in a low-key, sunlight room. Nayra serves lunch and dinner but their breakfast offerings - hot meals, pastries, and coffee - are their stronger items. They have English-language menus
and staff often speaks English.<br />
<br />
Food pick: pancakes with maple syrup; chai tea latte.<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Breakfast/hearty American-style: Khaan Deli</u><br />
Location: tough to find the first time. Head out of the city airport towards the airport. Shortly after the main road turns west, turn right into a warren of Soviet bloc apartments just after Jetro Supermarket. It may take a little bit of wandering but you'll see the sign for the deli as you follow the road into the courtyards. Most days they don't open until at least 9am, so it's best for late breakfast or lunch. It's a great pit-stop if you're visiting the Bogd Khan Winter Palace or going to/from the airport.<br />
<br />
Khaan Deli specializes in comfort food: biscuits and gravy, breakfast sandwiches, milkshakes, and the perfect fare to fill you up after a long trip. They even cure their own meats, make their own hot dogs and sausages, and expand their menu fairly regularly. If you're really starving one morning, Khaan Deli is worth the trek. You should be able to order in English without too much trouble.<br />
<br />
Food picks: breakfast sandwich (eggs and bacon on a home-made biscuit), chocolate milkshake.<br />
<u><br /></u>
<u><br /></u>
<u>Sunday brunch splurge: Cafe Park at the Shangri-La Hotel</u><br />
Location:
south of Dashinchoilen monastery on the road that connects the
Corporate Hotel and Bayangol Hotel area to the embassy and medical
districts. Can't miss the hotel's huge towers on the south side of the
road!<br />
<br />
Shangri-La is the first 5-star hotel in Ulaanbaatar and
recently opened for business in 2015. The main lobby is opulent and the
staff professional. Cafe Park hosts a brunch buffet on Sundays that
require reservations (call the Shangri-La hotel); it's well worth it!
Several hot food stations (including an omelet chef), a crepe station, a
jam-packed dessert bar, and waitstaff who bring unlimited juice, coffee, tea, and house wine make the per person 49,000MNT seem like a steal. Take the whole 3 hours (12-3pm) to make the most of a relaxing Sunday. Most of the staff speak English pretty well and, as it's a buffet, you mostly won't need to look at a menu.<br />
<br />
Food pick: crepe station<br />
*Note: Cafe Park is still working out the pricing and menu for the Sunday brunch. Ask the on-duty manager or your server specifically what's included at what price before get started to avoid any unpleasant confusion.<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Light lunch: The Green Zone</u><br />
Location: east side of the Builder's Square immediately adjacent to the Zanabazar Fine Arts Museum.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYDtu1BjKwdVzaj_AIxE_YLHDsXuvEq04bW0egzcPDVtGEdHVEzJHNJMbuF22fH0Beoig3mYcK6-4InNltDbFP2VyLG6QDtFiLWiu3eXbNFUfAIpit3xJH9t0CdoJ5u4CyoXphjISZcwQ/s1600/The+green+zone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYDtu1BjKwdVzaj_AIxE_YLHDsXuvEq04bW0egzcPDVtGEdHVEzJHNJMbuF22fH0Beoig3mYcK6-4InNltDbFP2VyLG6QDtFiLWiu3eXbNFUfAIpit3xJH9t0CdoJ5u4CyoXphjISZcwQ/s400/The+green+zone.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the aptly-named Green Zone (photo courtesy of Trip Advisor UK)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Green Zone is one of the newer additions to the Ulaanbaatar food scene and a welcome infusion of French bakery-style offerings made fresh on the premise. The Green Zone bakes it own bread, does omelets all day, and serves up a variety of sandwiches, pastries, and other light fare that is a cut above the rest. The space itself is bright airy, with high ceiling and walls lined with hanging gardens of plants and flowers, but small enough that it's not suitable for large groups. The chalkboard menu is in English and the staff are friendly.<br />
<br />
Food pick: Salade Nicoise<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Upscale dinner: Veranda</u><br />
Location:
a small side street east of the National Library and Monnis Tower runs
past Dashinchoilen Monastery. Veranda is on the west side of the tiny
street and second floor of the building.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgffNJvrZbBcsrVPKXJN11IeffxvJA8Z6livMrf9HkAjDhtJtBe8psSpT88anvvJyYffMIKgHmBm9sLoJmZH5ORthK5ZHTDR9RLqTV0nX1P1Q0EnAMvz5StkfmNw_JFhQ0hW4D7YtRzCPk/s1600/the-veranda-and-bhuddist.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgffNJvrZbBcsrVPKXJN11IeffxvJA8Z6livMrf9HkAjDhtJtBe8psSpT88anvvJyYffMIKgHmBm9sLoJmZH5ORthK5ZHTDR9RLqTV0nX1P1Q0EnAMvz5StkfmNw_JFhQ0hW4D7YtRzCPk/s400/the-veranda-and-bhuddist.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Veranda's eponymous veranda in the upper right-hand corner (photo courtesy of Trip Advisor)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Veranda is an old
standard here in UB for a reason: good service, excellent wine cellar,
and delicious food. Sit out on the eponymous veranda if at all possible
for a lovely view of the monastery. Not suitable for large groups or
backpacker clothes. Veranda has separate menus in English and Mongolian.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: order a small entree or appetizer and share a salad bowl with a friend. <br />
Food pick: steak salad bowl. Definitely take a good look at the wine list because you probably won't find a better selection anywhere else in Mongolia.<br />
<u><br /></u>
<u><br /></u><br />
<u>Italian: Marco Polo</u><br />
Location: on the south side of Seoul Street across from the central Khaan Bank building. If you pass the hospital as you're heading west, you've gone too far.<br />
<br />
Marco Polo's another long-time staple of the UB food scene. They serve a nice variety of pasta dishes and pizzas that help settle a jet-lagged stomach or carbo-load after a taxing expedition in the countryside. As the guide books will tell you, Marco Polo is right next to a strip club, but you really can't tell. Doubt anyone who claims to have wandered into the strip club while looking for the restaurant; you're not fooling anyone, buddy!<br />
<br />
Food picks: Quattro Formaggio personal pizza, green salad<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Craving American fast food: Round Table Pizza</u><br />
Location: on the south side of Peace Avenue just east of the State Department Store.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-F6H-4QcKTZe-t9s9ceRA3h2BhVwD1RVRNUNe0_EBEkBk1dA3KRHSZG3PWU1VKqTFWAy5XW0sifFYTofxFBmrRHXk-7VLC6QIMkuZ1I5ioDGZ_HX6Bpb41qz8-hOT3sEHmxHoK2YPAqo/s1600/RTP.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-F6H-4QcKTZe-t9s9ceRA3h2BhVwD1RVRNUNe0_EBEkBk1dA3KRHSZG3PWU1VKqTFWAy5XW0sifFYTofxFBmrRHXk-7VLC6QIMkuZ1I5ioDGZ_HX6Bpb41qz8-hOT3sEHmxHoK2YPAqo/s400/RTP.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy of Google Plus</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Let's
be honest: sometimes even the most intrepid explorer gets a hankering
for homey-yet-horrible food from their home country. Round Table Pizza fills that niche
without being utterly disgusting (like KFC - avoid at all costs!
Actually manages to have roaches even though roaches basically don't
exist in Mongolia). They deliver but also have a sit-down dining room if you don't want to wait over an hour for your pizza. English isn't a problem if you're ordering in the restaurant; ordering over the phone is a little more hit-or-miss.<br />
<br />
Food pick: Montague's All-Meat Marvel if you're missing pepperoni<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Eating in bed while watching Netflix: Songo</u><br />
Sometimes
traveling can leave you too exhausted to go out for food. Never fear!
Songo is the Seamless of UB. They coordinate food delivery for a wide
variety of restaurants and will get your food to you within about 1 hour
of ordering if you're in the city center. You can use their Iphone app
or simply call (they have an English-speaking service line) while
consulting the menu options on their Facebook page in both English and Mongolian. The English-language operators are excellent and professional.<br />
<br />
Food pick: gyoza and sushi rolls (yes, sushi!) from Miko Sushi <br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Bakery: Jur Ur</u><br />
Location:
northwest of the Flower Center. Enter through
the narrow footpath gates between the apartment buildings (head left around the corner at the Mongolian fast food joint on the SE corner of the traffic light); it's on the
second floor of the main building with a west-facing entrance.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1SbcfUhOe3hgqyIdeWhWzMC7YdfUQKOaLSFD-Lw-_LFJsOz0Kif_JwEHAEifotVcsk6IHGBT49fK_O2InyC3qXsW7uoIJ6YVvCdhBGS_Of_wA7N17aP2H34MJBQlnpDfevIBG9TZm_60/s1600/Jur+Ur.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1SbcfUhOe3hgqyIdeWhWzMC7YdfUQKOaLSFD-Lw-_LFJsOz0Kif_JwEHAEifotVcsk6IHGBT49fK_O2InyC3qXsW7uoIJ6YVvCdhBGS_Of_wA7N17aP2H34MJBQlnpDfevIBG9TZm_60/s640/Jur+Ur.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jur Ur doesn't have a prison yard-vibe in real life</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I've never understood why Jur
Ur isn't more popular with the expat and tourist communities in UB. It
may be because the staff have little/no English, all the signs are in
Mongolian, and there tends to be a higglety-pigglety approach to
service (and queuing, which is par for the course in Mongolia). However, the baked goods are amazing and the prices
significantly lower than any European option. They have a separate cake
shop ("The Cakery") and in the main bakery serve a dizzying variety of
pastries (sweet and savory), mini pizzas, bread, juice, and other tasty
treats. You can eat in their spacious cafe or take your food to go.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: skip the sub-par coffee and get authentic Mongolian cranberry (<i>ainsny shuus</i>) or seabuckthorn (<i>chatsargany shuus</i>) juice with your pastry. <br />
<br />
Food pick: <i>limontoi pirog</i> (a giant lemon bar topped with meringue) for dessert, <i>alimtai terguun </i>(half an apple filled with blackberry jam baked into a pastry crust) for breakfast<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Coffee: Caffe Bene</u><br />
Location: almost everywhere, it seems! The best branch is on the first floor of Metro Mall on the north part of <i>Baga Toiruu</i>.<br />
<br />
Caffe
Bene is an international coffee chain that's making a big splash in UB
these days. If you don't have time to sit at Nayra's (probably the best
actual coffee in Mongolia), Caffe Bene is a decent second option with
more choices, like frozen and blended drinks. Some locations also serve
excellent gelato. English-language service is a little hit-or-miss but the overhead menu should be in English at all locations.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: even if you don't see it advertised, ask to have your gelato in a waffle cone. The price is the same as using a paper cup and it makes the whole treat that much tastier.<br />
<br />
Food pick: mocha to drink on a cold winter morning; blueberry and strawberry gelato for a summer treat<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Beer: Ikh Mongol (outdoor), Salm Brau pub (indoor)</u><br />
Location: Ikh Mongol is located just east of the yellow-roofed Circus (<i>Tsirq</i>) and immediately south of the Natsagdorj Library. Salm Brau is located up on <i>Baga Toiruu</i> immediately south of Metro Mall.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl5gEFXftnI2M94U_yJSvvon2w3351ca8tdpIrs7LqHyQ4frFl1bDUhVeSVJK0Lj_CYR5A8c7b99uH9B1g64UVZpvbMHtUjsNdcYI7cLb4JFmLsB9C-8NOU90eyBQEIWNM117E6SZbhBQ/s1600/Ikh+Mongol.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl5gEFXftnI2M94U_yJSvvon2w3351ca8tdpIrs7LqHyQ4frFl1bDUhVeSVJK0Lj_CYR5A8c7b99uH9B1g64UVZpvbMHtUjsNdcYI7cLb4JFmLsB9C-8NOU90eyBQEIWNM117E6SZbhBQ/s400/Ikh+Mongol.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ikh Mongol at dusk (photo courtesy of http://www.iamlubos.com/travel/sib/sib8.php)</td></tr>
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<br />
Ikh
Mongol - they brew their own beer and have spacious outdoor seating.
Often they have live music inside and outside. You can also get decent
food there. For outdoor beer gardens, many people still go to Grand
Khaan Irish pub, which is terrible (seriously, someone found a band-aid
in their pizza there a few months ago!); Ikh Mongol is just as centrally
located and maintains a higher standard (though, honestly, the bar
isn't high). English language menus available.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: if you want to sit somewhere a little quieter, snag an outdoor table in the far south part of the patio along the entrance.<br />
<br />
Salm Brau - owned by the Modern Nomads chain. I
know I ragged on Modern Nomads above, but Salm Brau 1) brews its own
beer and 2) has more varieties of their own beer than any other place in
Mongolia (i.e., more than two, haha). Their beer hall is half disco
club, so sit near the door and stairs unless you want to cut a rug or be
blinded by the strobe lights. English language menus available.<br />
<br />
<br />
A future Mongolia Inside & Out post will focus on drinking in Mongolia, but you can get decent beer, wine, and cocktails at a number of locations in Ulaanbaatar. When summer hits, it's lovely to sit out on a patio or rooftop bar and watch the sun set over the purple hills in the west.<br />
<br />
If you prefer to prepare your own meals, you're in luck: there are plenty of grocery options in Ulaanbaatar to suit your tastes and budget. That's a large enough topic that I'll leave grocery shopping for a subsequent post on shopping in general. Suffice it to say, in Ulaanbaatar alone there are numerous grocery stores, convenience stores, wholesale grocers, upscale import markets, street vendors, and open-air markets that shoppers can now buy a good selection of vegetables and fruits all year round, staple foods for a wide variety of national cuisines, and conveniently grab milk, instant coffee, and ramen from almost any corner shop.<br />
<br />
This installment of Mongolia Inside & Out was particularly heavy on tips and light on analysis; that goes with the subject matter. When it comes time to consider food in rural Mongolia, more traditional meals, and food production in herding families, the tone will switch yet again. Let me finish by saying that there's lots of good food to be enjoyed throughout Mongolia but that travelers should take advantage of Ulaanbaatar's fresh vegetables, mixed drinks, and international cuisine while they can - things are different in the <i>khuduu</i>!<br />
<br />
Next time on Mongolia Inside & Out: all about alcohol!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-91882632574388406222015-07-20T06:23:00.001-07:002015-07-20T06:23:01.680-07:00Naadam 2015 - Arkhust adventureThis year I made it my mission to attend a real countryside <i>Naadam</i>. While the National <i>Naadam </i>celebrations in Ulaanbaatar draw the tourist crowds through sportsmanship, pomp and spectacle, and celebrities (this year Steven Segal was in attendance), the small <i>Naadam </i>celebrations held at the county- or <i>soum</i>-level have a community atmosphere and amateur appeal that I find charming and accessible that I find lacking from the national celebrations. <br />
<br />
Arkhust, about 120km southeast of Ulaanbaatar, is a lovely little county seat not far from the train line running from the capital city to Sainshand, Erlian, and China. The town is nestled against rocky hills that ring the Nagal National Protected Area, which shield the residents from the bitter north wind and provide a scenic backdrop in contrast to the expansive steppe to the south. After calling the <i>soum </i>cultural center, I decided that Arkhust would be the ideal balance of proximity, rural countryside feel, local scale (we were the only non-Mongolians there), and hospitality. The opening day of the Arkhust <i>Naadam </i>was to be held on July 9th, just before the celebrations in Ulaanbaatar. Armed with some directions and a desire for a real <i>Naadam </i>experience, off we went on Thursday morning!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoDSeiuCkvHol35B5HWd27_ISyWp1nYHGBbskuTir7RbniQMj28xCyMnnlYv08MXddKIg6R3H8hzOxSBCYR2dGrE8HjThGR9rKPPlnxz6bXa3hjbEsPM3BWiCIKAdkW7Sv5kfu6AWbt8g/s1600/DSC02471.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoDSeiuCkvHol35B5HWd27_ISyWp1nYHGBbskuTir7RbniQMj28xCyMnnlYv08MXddKIg6R3H8hzOxSBCYR2dGrE8HjThGR9rKPPlnxz6bXa3hjbEsPM3BWiCIKAdkW7Sv5kfu6AWbt8g/s640/DSC02471.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drought: June and July are usually the rainy season in Mongolia. As you can see, the steppe lands are yellow and brown even in early July. This lack of lush vegetation is already negatively impacting <i>airag </i>production in the area. (Don't worry - the lovely Naadam organizers in Arkhust gave us some <i>airag </i>anyway)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
As we crested a hill on our way to Arkhust, our vehicle startled a herd of <i>tsagaan zeer </i>(Mongolian antelope), which raced away as if pursued by a large predator:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZlx_cxbLxaXl7YIqo2oPtUvo20_0Ykje-k1UGsL_uWSPTXokEfV25uS3YsZr1XfSBrKd-gTaym1msOb7ywpZoVqxkvduuoeeJRDPNY6BIN296aaMD6VOVTxYDtmkudvq8FbZDtR64PzY/s1600/DSC_8817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZlx_cxbLxaXl7YIqo2oPtUvo20_0Ykje-k1UGsL_uWSPTXokEfV25uS3YsZr1XfSBrKd-gTaym1msOb7ywpZoVqxkvduuoeeJRDPNY6BIN296aaMD6VOVTxYDtmkudvq8FbZDtR64PzY/s640/DSC_8817.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mongolian antelope are indigenous to the steppe region and supposedly a common sight in the eastern provinces. Despite 10 years of traveling in the Mongolian countryside, this was the first time I'd ever encountered these animals.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
At the Arkhust <i>Naadam</i>, community members were decked out in gorgeous <i>deel </i>- the Mongolian national outfit - in all kinds of patterns and colors, accented with belts and hats:<br />
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There were almost as many attendees on horseback as on foot. While many if not most of the kids on horseback were jockeys, some were just here to enjoy the festivities, like this young boy:<br />
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And these kids, who expertly wove through the crowds on foot:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A jockey in full racing gear and helmet, which makes a very positive change from many races I have seen, is flanked by friends and families as he heads to the starting line</td></tr>
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<i>Naadam </i>usually consists of three main events, the Three Manly Sports: archery, horseback riding, and wrestling. At a small venue like Arkhust, archery is commonly skipped, as few people in a small community will have archery equipment. In addition to sporting events, <i>Naadam </i>celebrations feature musical and dance performances.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglud2M1GxEZuD4SPooJz3u_e8WQNKjpxmppt59tjcuRKh8NvWKQEg9Cbh7XfwnVMOaAMY9wfEFfDh8NZCu64S4Iso83_rOI5l7W3LYVbw_uGiXti-mI7fIMo0uKQPugNXmTJMeL6VjgaQ/s1600/DSC_8827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglud2M1GxEZuD4SPooJz3u_e8WQNKjpxmppt59tjcuRKh8NvWKQEg9Cbh7XfwnVMOaAMY9wfEFfDh8NZCu64S4Iso83_rOI5l7W3LYVbw_uGiXti-mI7fIMo0uKQPugNXmTJMeL6VjgaQ/s640/DSC_8827.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A powerhouse singer and <i>moriin khuur</i> (usually translated "horse-head fiddle) player opened the Arkhust <i>Naadam</i> with some stirring songs</td></tr>
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The Arkhust <i>Naadam </i>opening day featured two horse races. We missed the first one, just like the fellows below almost did, but had a finish-line view of the final race of the day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAToHHSHqeqK2MIq58n_rmmzyVurLO906GbxLnk0Ll8JuC23l0x5sfQYxkHtK8uZ9FtzevuccKAa-PvgfLRbYwbj9sQexXZYPwdury3NJKiHnwRTlSZEjyUq24FRKmEshXupblSxKHNO0/s1600/DSC02404.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAToHHSHqeqK2MIq58n_rmmzyVurLO906GbxLnk0Ll8JuC23l0x5sfQYxkHtK8uZ9FtzevuccKAa-PvgfLRbYwbj9sQexXZYPwdury3NJKiHnwRTlSZEjyUq24FRKmEshXupblSxKHNO0/s640/DSC02404.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Racing to the starting line</td></tr>
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In Mongolia, horse races are organized by age class. Many races are a circuit or loop, such as the races at Arkhust, although the big national races are one-way. The Arkhust races were all 20-km races: much longer than horse races in the US.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig1GxHZ3byv7OQM2Ct5PaFSgVJ_FX3nXAdSJ-WVZcXOlMd0uft8IVTPpmXVA8NtyQ1MJHrEChPng8LVL_EF3TmCV0y23dhcenAX3nzC5Q56HyBbPEMOfxxyn5H7HyDU1FC1NCjuATe0vM/s1600/DSC02415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig1GxHZ3byv7OQM2Ct5PaFSgVJ_FX3nXAdSJ-WVZcXOlMd0uft8IVTPpmXVA8NtyQ1MJHrEChPng8LVL_EF3TmCV0y23dhcenAX3nzC5Q56HyBbPEMOfxxyn5H7HyDU1FC1NCjuATe0vM/s640/DSC02415.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here they come! View from the <i>shudlen </i>(3-year-old horses) race finish line.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic5tlEkGFHi10ekdO9xSIphJbh7d9xs4_ZGlWdpOYkpZDC0fSNH_hrw3fuXSeKDTD-wcdZE7L2sgOqurnQ0WxK0kyJHKlDxsgK-crQrDSHiTYpZWX0aJcD2U5V_KzlKKOxAeCplNqxBAs/s1600/DSC_8861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic5tlEkGFHi10ekdO9xSIphJbh7d9xs4_ZGlWdpOYkpZDC0fSNH_hrw3fuXSeKDTD-wcdZE7L2sgOqurnQ0WxK0kyJHKlDxsgK-crQrDSHiTYpZWX0aJcD2U5V_KzlKKOxAeCplNqxBAs/s640/DSC_8861.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you look closely, you can see that some jockeys ride without a saddle. There aren't any regulations governing horse tack or jockey gear, although protective head- and body-gear for jockeys seems to be growing in popularity.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibjI9jOAau7GuEVnijPwLGIx9KknyXWnBQqADZo4Ru04ItBEn4px4Vu3LvNVpLM7WjA39mxqnZm8rXqe-ZIAvtpGMP9zFnY4yj9ya_K04Tz1pSAGz11o-ooEq6-pciTNTtBFmdu0KnvFQ/s1600/DSC_8862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibjI9jOAau7GuEVnijPwLGIx9KknyXWnBQqADZo4Ru04ItBEn4px4Vu3LvNVpLM7WjA39mxqnZm8rXqe-ZIAvtpGMP9zFnY4yj9ya_K04Tz1pSAGz11o-ooEq6-pciTNTtBFmdu0KnvFQ/s640/DSC_8862.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unfortunately, a horse without a rider means that a jockey has fallen somewhere during the race. Hopefully the kid was unhurt. Interestingly, a riderless horse can win or place in a race; Mongolian racing emphasizes the horse rather than the jockey. Although jockeys possess skill and stamina, the horse gets most of the attention and subsequently listed as a winner or top finisher.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheBvaawh3WFgwhomWVLeVAUzwudtpgpbcmZuJV-doeq2iX3TaQfrEeF6LMFKyfi3QOWN7dt3PU-C6o4CCX4tCMVLufZyODN0hkM5Vfz4erz0dTk9PXghKQDH5i0nGj47KmTQftL5eReBQ/s1600/DSC_8863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheBvaawh3WFgwhomWVLeVAUzwudtpgpbcmZuJV-doeq2iX3TaQfrEeF6LMFKyfi3QOWN7dt3PU-C6o4CCX4tCMVLufZyODN0hkM5Vfz4erz0dTk9PXghKQDH5i0nGj47KmTQftL5eReBQ/s640/DSC_8863.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whips out! Everyone is pushing their horses through those last few minutes</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJmmvP3LAyXKVle8NLZUNibs4llHlFmvW8y1LzT9hmRrjU5EHNXNtw0VX1wmCq4snFLkhxbWFppaP-IiO4Tl3VJKkwmj5f_A91dVfrNoABwk3EHRbh33v-V2cCP-JEQk7X8kXeI-RdbM/s1600/DSC02417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJmmvP3LAyXKVle8NLZUNibs4llHlFmvW8y1LzT9hmRrjU5EHNXNtw0VX1wmCq4snFLkhxbWFppaP-IiO4Tl3VJKkwmj5f_A91dVfrNoABwk3EHRbh33v-V2cCP-JEQk7X8kXeI-RdbM/s640/DSC02417.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the finish line. Jockeys in Mongolia are always small children. Boys and girls as young as 5 will compete in a race. At Arkhust, we were all impressed by the number of jockeys wearing helmets. (Note how the second racer is riding without a saddle - not an unusual sight)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwp2vVV5gDfn1HhyphenhyphenI5ymPNGnxQe-5NkaoFpe7XrE8KBBERMmB7UnaCpI1a5oOSqyFulDxsStK2d-P7v0nG-DFKsBgJQ4c_Qtvo_tfNRT3Aq_eWdew_AVAey47kMm4B8dpgiDCo4t_m0Nk/s1600/DSC02424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwp2vVV5gDfn1HhyphenhyphenI5ymPNGnxQe-5NkaoFpe7XrE8KBBERMmB7UnaCpI1a5oOSqyFulDxsStK2d-P7v0nG-DFKsBgJQ4c_Qtvo_tfNRT3Aq_eWdew_AVAey47kMm4B8dpgiDCo4t_m0Nk/s640/DSC02424.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of many young girls racing at Arkhust nears the finish line. Do you see the grown man on the horse behind her? He drunkenly jumped on his horse and bolted out of the crowd of spectators into the rush of racers. The crowd was Not Happy with this clown.</td></tr>
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Wrestling was the main attraction in the <i>Naadam </i>arena at Arkhust. Mongolian wrestling does not have weight classes; rather, high-ranking wrestlers get to choose their opponents in the opening round, although from the spectator's position it's difficult to figure out exactly how that works. In any case, multiple matches happen at the same time in one round, and the winner of each individual match goes on to the next round. A round starts with the wrestlers slapping their thighs, jogging into the arena, offering their hats to the referees or coaches, and doing the eagle warm-up (and victory) dance:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqABi7JNT7oXsnaT4XFtUHsIk2Ba-2pkNR9laITlFaUFw6x3BB-0XWP4OWEgx52aH5u8IsXevy4RTXTE_2B7ljJfSShzv4nmy8Xo1XT_cQtbG7wzWh02zXoYohyxX9DTBCGBeY0EMQmB4/s1600/DSC_8845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqABi7JNT7oXsnaT4XFtUHsIk2Ba-2pkNR9laITlFaUFw6x3BB-0XWP4OWEgx52aH5u8IsXevy4RTXTE_2B7ljJfSShzv4nmy8Xo1XT_cQtbG7wzWh02zXoYohyxX9DTBCGBeY0EMQmB4/s640/DSC_8845.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two wrestlers face off while another in the background does the eagle victory/warm-up dance.</td></tr>
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Unlike archery, which is open to all ages and genders, and horse racing, which is open to girls and boys, wrestling is a man's sport in Mongolia. The boots and two-piece outfit are the traditional garb of a wrestler. At Arkhust we saw one or two wrestlers compete in track pants or jeans, but they were in the minority. Legend has it that the wrestler's vest is designed to keep women from competing, as long ago a woman defeated all others, much to the chagrin of the men. The wrestler's hat contains a lot of symbolism as well as indications of a wrestler's rank and previous titles. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRcDca1kqh9CCRi6FtM_IW2cAOhwh4RjVgTmqrAuH-0c5wV20y4xgofZN8BazMx3NsaWgtUokGJfi4abMTEcn5y6yFFxad0ap55vC8rgWtNTqlFzadK_lziLXz5cvjkJC8lSQFTsYkqNI/s1600/DSC_8852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRcDca1kqh9CCRi6FtM_IW2cAOhwh4RjVgTmqrAuH-0c5wV20y4xgofZN8BazMx3NsaWgtUokGJfi4abMTEcn5y6yFFxad0ap55vC8rgWtNTqlFzadK_lziLXz5cvjkJC8lSQFTsYkqNI/s640/DSC_8852.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two wrestlers grapple to throw their opponent off-balance. Mongolian wrestling combines the incredible size and strength of its top competitors with fine-tuned balance and grappling strategy.</td></tr>
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The aim in Mongolian wrestling is to cause your opponent to touch the ground with his hands and elbows by whatever means necessary. The most common strategy I've observed is to grab an opponent's belt or waistband and push/pull him off-balance. However, there are many other advanced tactics that wrestlers will employ.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJbMx-9yGJteR0niAkOHR7gT9_8LIUCfANGfuJ95yIKA4u4Uj4FyNL0S_sviZYIVNReIlCG608YHhR5vVP0-gmJVyzOlbanppbNmlzwDr9J1oXCX7c945neQyimfhM7IkKjVxQ9BdiX6g/s1600/DSC_8856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJbMx-9yGJteR0niAkOHR7gT9_8LIUCfANGfuJ95yIKA4u4Uj4FyNL0S_sviZYIVNReIlCG608YHhR5vVP0-gmJVyzOlbanppbNmlzwDr9J1oXCX7c945neQyimfhM7IkKjVxQ9BdiX6g/s640/DSC_8856.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These two matches were the most exciting of the day. The two in the foreground had a genuine fight, with slapping and shoving, that was a bit uncomfortable to watch (the angrier of the two, in red and blue, won). The two in the background, as you can see, were quite mismatched in terms of size. However, the little guy in blue was tenacious, tripping up the giant in red (whose knee may have been giving him trouble) with every trick in the book, and ultimately causing an unprecedented upset against all expectations.</td></tr>
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The winner of a match will perform the eagle dance, sweeping his arm (wing) over the loser and often patting him on the back or butt, with arms up around the arena:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYtoPFz27CF9qMR-M8ASHUOXToVr5xE-4wu9AOUO5PKt9gBePvf4FzSKnrohsL0V5jooO2N9m-PY4qGi_nMpTiONlVEOw-w9Iy1KlPia40CWaktZ1qkOmsg6eZAufm36EU5qhiNCDNJEw/s1600/DSC02287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYtoPFz27CF9qMR-M8ASHUOXToVr5xE-4wu9AOUO5PKt9gBePvf4FzSKnrohsL0V5jooO2N9m-PY4qGi_nMpTiONlVEOw-w9Iy1KlPia40CWaktZ1qkOmsg6eZAufm36EU5qhiNCDNJEw/s640/DSC02287.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winner, winner, chicken dinner! This wrestler's <i>zalaa</i>, the red tassles or ribbons hanging down the back of his hat, signify the number of titles he's won. Clearly, this older pro is no slouch when it comes to wrestling.</td></tr>
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In between events we were invited into the <i>ger </i>set up by the Arkhust cultural center, where our kind hosts shared their spread with us:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj53J7aiKee8gT2BYxrqlZLTcoE6syoG8BbrRNJoK65wUUgKRQvMCynPJnvbtFGQksgJmzkmfyRbcXHM6AxTFJuGMR-vrSf0meQRAtC3SUVakmANCoaCCu9RjXVTMbNvhtHaVoKKvTmKBk/s1600/DSC_8872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj53J7aiKee8gT2BYxrqlZLTcoE6syoG8BbrRNJoK65wUUgKRQvMCynPJnvbtFGQksgJmzkmfyRbcXHM6AxTFJuGMR-vrSf0meQRAtC3SUVakmANCoaCCu9RjXVTMbNvhtHaVoKKvTmKBk/s640/DSC_8872.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We were treated to quite a feast: <i>airag </i>(in the large porcelain container and the smaller wooden bowls), cold mutton (including the <i>uuts</i> or fatty tail), and <i>idee</i> (the ceremonial dish for major holidays made up of stacked cookies and filled with dried dairy products and white sweets).</td></tr>
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The <i>ger </i>itself was unusual in that, rather than the normal painted wood, all the wooden surfaces were beautifully and intricately hand carved with ornate Mongolian designs:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnKJ2tO7z6neMuBW62IioGEmPQ4WoKhvmm1Gb5i86FwYttUGrJqNvM16s3rWQsF-8eho8W233rVTeiopGVUQP7XdIrThtn-3FA1KWz9OPx0OQJuDB65CyOEqmxtRSThsGHdaohiBuWN9c/s1600/DSC02408.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnKJ2tO7z6neMuBW62IioGEmPQ4WoKhvmm1Gb5i86FwYttUGrJqNvM16s3rWQsF-8eho8W233rVTeiopGVUQP7XdIrThtn-3FA1KWz9OPx0OQJuDB65CyOEqmxtRSThsGHdaohiBuWN9c/s640/DSC02408.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hand-carved wooden door on the welcoming <i>ger </i>at the Arkhust Naadam. The woodwork in this <i>ger </i>was some of the most impressive I've ever seen in Mongolia, or world-wide.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzH5QzwU1p751SQEMahZ_r5SloxGbkKKdN5N3e46hOUXMiBa1JgXUw9xc6TzFbM-Abbw6zFRIn4gBnndRpEbZnEbYw9i-97c0VUnAT_GjUS-gFIK4humi3t_nqHzrHCNih3FvvYnzvn2A/s1600/DSC_8869.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzH5QzwU1p751SQEMahZ_r5SloxGbkKKdN5N3e46hOUXMiBa1JgXUw9xc6TzFbM-Abbw6zFRIn4gBnndRpEbZnEbYw9i-97c0VUnAT_GjUS-gFIK4humi3t_nqHzrHCNih3FvvYnzvn2A/s640/DSC_8869.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our new friend cuts us some mutton as our Arkhust hosts ask us what brought us to Mongolia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtqAESmHuh1eroibVAmsbDF76tchrB8dx-f3OdfWcKml8Aye88ZuDP929rkY89YfAr9hJx3JVUxkDYrw3LiGgZDUHphdwNOqE0crEkjlpoh1lEOaCOLXAFYG8LRZb2RMHqagq7V4_vK1c/s1600/DSC_8870.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtqAESmHuh1eroibVAmsbDF76tchrB8dx-f3OdfWcKml8Aye88ZuDP929rkY89YfAr9hJx3JVUxkDYrw3LiGgZDUHphdwNOqE0crEkjlpoh1lEOaCOLXAFYG8LRZb2RMHqagq7V4_vK1c/s640/DSC_8870.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of the different cuts of meat, including the fatty tail (far right) and intestines (sitting atop the fatty tail).</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiebWwARfcsCBjIoabm6E-joC3BE2lkKUMFtN_D6T9Vrif0a68iXUjXSW-XN93Aw-c7ID5Q_nTqy2yFKPx_0huw59xyhaZO9zCtddGvEjey2c-wEfDwt4c6PydQ402hjSj6Y-cn-EsbFCs/s1600/DSC02409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiebWwARfcsCBjIoabm6E-joC3BE2lkKUMFtN_D6T9Vrif0a68iXUjXSW-XN93Aw-c7ID5Q_nTqy2yFKPx_0huw59xyhaZO9zCtddGvEjey2c-wEfDwt4c6PydQ402hjSj6Y-cn-EsbFCs/s640/DSC02409.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bowl of <i>airag </i>served in the welcoming <i>ger</i>. Although it's early in <i>airag</i>-producing season, this batch tasted particularly strong in terms of flavor and alcohol content. I think that may be due to the drought and its effects on both the mares and the vegetation around Arkhust.</td></tr>
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After the day's events finished, a number of the jockeys and horses returned to the <i>Naadam </i>arena to cool down.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin: 0px;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkUjQi1cLwQU5Wn1yGfkgGYBeNcIpAWx27cklGDUp4ffOWWWMiHiQxrC5snoYwBm6Yte2OlKkw2PxGWLwN7wTjCCxP_b-nxaNru3tafdw39ZbbfEkQTL9K5ERCWl8r2Ywe_q3wWZaIc8/s1600/DSC02446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkUjQi1cLwQU5Wn1yGfkgGYBeNcIpAWx27cklGDUp4ffOWWWMiHiQxrC5snoYwBm6Yte2OlKkw2PxGWLwN7wTjCCxP_b-nxaNru3tafdw39ZbbfEkQTL9K5ERCWl8r2Ywe_q3wWZaIc8/s640/DSC02446.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin: 0px;">
A jockey with a top-finishing horse take some cool-down victory laps inside the wrestling arena after all the day's races finished. The blue cloth is a <i>khadag</i>, given to the horse for winning or placing in the top 5 in a race. Race horses in Mongolia have their forelocks in a top knot and their tails tied back.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB5flFP96_mw6TJwswDk6KqWnAHXqHP9dXguMYze4MsEH69GA-9SLvHxrjfzxTbbDy0tr9JRT_VJ6qftCwFVWlIXTLKC0N85GYiNx7t6Yw_HplT-Yd5Qs6zNRrxrXaZIWwRPXPdEmIWTM/s1600/DSC02449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB5flFP96_mw6TJwswDk6KqWnAHXqHP9dXguMYze4MsEH69GA-9SLvHxrjfzxTbbDy0tr9JRT_VJ6qftCwFVWlIXTLKC0N85GYiNx7t6Yw_HplT-Yd5Qs6zNRrxrXaZIWwRPXPdEmIWTM/s640/DSC02449.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This little racer is Nomin-Erdene, who placed 4th in the <i>shudlen </i>race at the tender age of 7. The horse she raced on - not necessarily 'her' horse - is wearing a headdress for horses that place in the top 5 of their races as well as a winning <i>khadag</i>.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6aiCGjS0O8NJ0iinM3HLglibTvyOI37l1HfC2oYNWrLc-gNU8MR0RveNUNPeMJVq5KezSfeRezrtqj6s-3A9RMHDh9C3SUzJ9baiQ77hBa4R1RGppZGQnP6tFzMfPoGuMVT4vP04jAtM/s1600/DSC02453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6aiCGjS0O8NJ0iinM3HLglibTvyOI37l1HfC2oYNWrLc-gNU8MR0RveNUNPeMJVq5KezSfeRezrtqj6s-3A9RMHDh9C3SUzJ9baiQ77hBa4R1RGppZGQnP6tFzMfPoGuMVT4vP04jAtM/s640/DSC02453.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two particularly splendidly dressed horsemen care for one of the day's top finishers, who munches on the <i>Naadam </i>arena grass after the race.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLcDFgm2yJUhnnW19nTizAVNqeXh5utjvglUMV6OyA31tyvTCQot55JItOh_1xZB-19fZa8VsvEI2LDy1nUZPulKSbB_OXPzEL2hhovxrht4lchpOGpaQ6_vrMZ75en_7P6hullB4laAU/s1600/DSC_8885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLcDFgm2yJUhnnW19nTizAVNqeXh5utjvglUMV6OyA31tyvTCQot55JItOh_1xZB-19fZa8VsvEI2LDy1nUZPulKSbB_OXPzEL2hhovxrht4lchpOGpaQ6_vrMZ75en_7P6hullB4laAU/s640/DSC_8885.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An owner looks on his winning horse with pride. Horse blankets are rarely used in Mongolia, although some racehorses will get transported in this kind of thin sheet.</td></tr>
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We had a bit of a misadventure when we attempted to leave: one of our tires had blown out! After the local repairman finished, we drove back towards paved road and the route back to UB. On our way, we stopped at a Bronze-Age feature (<i>khirigsuur</i>) in a valley north of Arkhust chocked full of ancient burials:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5g7ZuOu0yOgLQjHSC8G3fzQ_aN-lEvVDAp1bJORrPbczgsRFDuB4-u-ja1JUnsMMmmxSqe6s0iXkZBW7D0WanUkY0uqh7Oain_Txe_gzSjUA8BWLS9qBbN3C59d3aXjSjEn7dYuKhyl4/s1600/DSC_8888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5g7ZuOu0yOgLQjHSC8G3fzQ_aN-lEvVDAp1bJORrPbczgsRFDuB4-u-ja1JUnsMMmmxSqe6s0iXkZBW7D0WanUkY0uqh7Oain_Txe_gzSjUA8BWLS9qBbN3C59d3aXjSjEn7dYuKhyl4/s640/DSC_8888.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pointing: true archaeological expertise</td></tr>
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I'll say it again: it's almost impossible to go somewhere in rural Mongolia and *not* stumble across something archaeological.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWUGfhVxeENXOLBdhwZcrmkOq-Mf-kL5BZvkwbJ5gvJvPWHosopBm2thEbiAHY7bjKSntVR1YhNBRtQoox2z_sP19pzhh5mJvj48AgJFsE-0UXlAE0arhI3eRDzgiBEEH5lhAyQ0X5pmg/s1600/DSC_8889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWUGfhVxeENXOLBdhwZcrmkOq-Mf-kL5BZvkwbJ5gvJvPWHosopBm2thEbiAHY7bjKSntVR1YhNBRtQoox2z_sP19pzhh5mJvj48AgJFsE-0UXlAE0arhI3eRDzgiBEEH5lhAyQ0X5pmg/s640/DSC_8889.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our merry band of adventurers</td></tr>
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As evening set in, we made the trek over dusty country roads, swapping Mongolian ghost stories and turning our minds towards dinner.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKfcwYHuVMi-M8oMpLiSjvKT2F4KAWfDci9BK3uww8UbIIAWuIbvTdcs7VBWZrDB3TWouz9MMPExMlvu6lC8AA4yvtoH5cj-n3QD5Y0nKoZy3PRafzJdTtFwBhRhJZsUOhzQAFOhOTESI/s1600/DSC02472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKfcwYHuVMi-M8oMpLiSjvKT2F4KAWfDci9BK3uww8UbIIAWuIbvTdcs7VBWZrDB3TWouz9MMPExMlvu6lC8AA4yvtoH5cj-n3QD5Y0nKoZy3PRafzJdTtFwBhRhJZsUOhzQAFOhOTESI/s640/DSC02472.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the road between Arkhust and the paved highway connecting UB to the eastern provinces</td></tr>
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But no journey east of UB is complete without a stop at <i>Tsonjin Boldog</i>, the impressive monument of Chinggis Khan on horseback about 55km east of the capital.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVhF17e6uS8hflzGUsNO15syYbCvOu5oGr8DCPoCr80kzY6YrAD_bVQXaZsSvmjtycCZjBRjfdz9ZGZoNoSmcAqCqiKHPecjUdr11sluigVQ_KHys5VBf0unDZzyULEw_A-0ZfUogZKgM/s1600/DSC02476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVhF17e6uS8hflzGUsNO15syYbCvOu5oGr8DCPoCr80kzY6YrAD_bVQXaZsSvmjtycCZjBRjfdz9ZGZoNoSmcAqCqiKHPecjUdr11sluigVQ_KHys5VBf0unDZzyULEw_A-0ZfUogZKgM/s640/DSC02476.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's only right to visit the Chinggis Khan statue during Naadam season</td></tr>
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The Chinggis statue boasts two excellent museums in its basement - one devoted to Iron Age cultures of Mongolia and the other to the archaeology of the Mongol Empire - and a vantage point on top of the horse's head. We decided not to go inside, as it was getting late, but it seems that <i>Tsonjin Boldog </i>is open as late as 6PM.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgQrmDKesGxkWRQZd_c6sP5BXFDEBv_ovCAe79bHh9GriMidb962h6EvX1y9n2nAcNoPtCSEUaHoOcsZQMDT4tbSaQmXdtgq1g1SaG5OxpaKd15tGwfEGFzAS9qicDsNrRlRVCYN6FbD8/s1600/DSC02478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgQrmDKesGxkWRQZd_c6sP5BXFDEBv_ovCAe79bHh9GriMidb962h6EvX1y9n2nAcNoPtCSEUaHoOcsZQMDT4tbSaQmXdtgq1g1SaG5OxpaKd15tGwfEGFzAS9qicDsNrRlRVCYN6FbD8/s640/DSC02478.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chinggis Khan looks particularly majestic in the golden evening light</td></tr>
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Each year they add new cavalry statues to the <i>Tsonjin Boldog </i>complex, as seen on the arch below. Rumor has it that donors can commission a statue in their own likeness!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiDiio-Omt3gJCZYbzKW7t0ybSTcZmwDIoyQ3xpO_3-qy0VRJE7QGHQBWL2UzZyTxPKc6tL6FJYICl59sTOEe4wnptyekEe5Mm3Frgol0XddOTqzEG-6DoLAZl6RCORY3awA7TBaFiv78/s1600/DSC02480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiDiio-Omt3gJCZYbzKW7t0ybSTcZmwDIoyQ3xpO_3-qy0VRJE7QGHQBWL2UzZyTxPKc6tL6FJYICl59sTOEe4wnptyekEe5Mm3Frgol0XddOTqzEG-6DoLAZl6RCORY3awA7TBaFiv78/s640/DSC02480.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bronze Mongol cavalry atop the <i>Tsonjin Boldog </i>entrance arch</td></tr>
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Unfortunately we were mired in terrible pre-National <i>Naadam </i>traffic once we neared the capital and didn't arrive in the city center until 9PM. However, such a wonderful day was well worth some traffic! My thanks to Vanchigaa for driving us and to my other friends who made the day fun and memorable; special thanks to Andreia for sharing her excellent photos of the day's adventures.<br />
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Eventually I'll post my pictures from the opening day of the National <i>Naadam </i>celebrations in Ulaanbaatar. However, I think that Arkhust, for all its modesty, and <i>soum </i>centers like it are much better places to enjoy the hospitality, entertainment, sportsmanship, and fun of a Mongolian <i>Naadam</i>. I would like to thank the people of Arkhust for welcoming us - literal strangers - to their celebration. Maybe we'll see you again next summer!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-28737697108275330802015-07-18T06:17:00.001-07:002015-07-20T06:21:58.696-07:00Mongolia Inside & Out 102: Introducing the gerWelcome back to the Mongolia Inside & Out series! Last time I shared the 23 things I think everyone should know about coming to Mongolia. At the end of the inaugural post, I made a grandiose claim about this post: that it would be dedicated to introducing Mongolian culture and customs. My hubris knew no bounds!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWnjZPR9-620dQbHQFw6iz_tAniwPwfGYi4sBqOO_omwWt4KqRvHKWkbD-S5NRk4fmW0REAW6CmFaYx_SSn6RJ4p-GGboUavz0dHNjFpjyuJk4hsuaj296pZhk5Gq_JAz8a7O78y6_OuA/s1600/DSC_0195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWnjZPR9-620dQbHQFw6iz_tAniwPwfGYi4sBqOO_omwWt4KqRvHKWkbD-S5NRk4fmW0REAW6CmFaYx_SSn6RJ4p-GGboUavz0dHNjFpjyuJk4hsuaj296pZhk5Gq_JAz8a7O78y6_OuA/s640/DSC_0195.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pictured: no bounds within which to contain all my hubris</td></tr>
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As I struggled to draft a comprehensive yet introductory post on the topic, I found myself returning to the Mongolian <i>ger </i>each time I considered almost every relevant subject. A full essay on Mongolian culture would invariably come up short; although it's tempting (and I was sorely tempted) to cram everything one knows into a single piece of writing, the end result always suffers.<br />
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As an alternative, let me introduce a number of key aspects of Mongolian culture through one of its defining features: the <i>ger</i>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNyLVaMTXXHR_NbSPmSFXsbUp1D0yGT5Jwt-3I0nEE9cVI7M_pcmK4W1pKT3emB2Qud1NwLQfMj6eShdlhZmEj07ikxRGBZdp-Y7r0Em2Wgb0YCjvPSLQVTpwpDUq0Nz2SzZNPHud2TTA/s1600/BGC2008_B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNyLVaMTXXHR_NbSPmSFXsbUp1D0yGT5Jwt-3I0nEE9cVI7M_pcmK4W1pKT3emB2Qud1NwLQfMj6eShdlhZmEj07ikxRGBZdp-Y7r0Em2Wgb0YCjvPSLQVTpwpDUq0Nz2SzZNPHud2TTA/s640/BGC2008_B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A typical Mongolian <i>ger</i></td></tr>
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The traditional dwelling of mobile or nomadic Mongolians is the <i>ger </i>(pronounced "gair'), called <i>yurt </i>elsewhere. <i>Ger </i>refers both to this specific kind of dwelling and to the concept of "home" in general. A UB urbanite will speak of his/her <i>ger </i>and mean an apartment or townhouse. A traveler will see the classic white mushroom-like <i>ger </i>almost everywhere in Mongolia, although some ethnic minorities dwell in other abodes (a topic for another post). There is a <i>ger </i>inside the Parliament house in which the most sacred ceremonies and high-level meetings of the Mongolian state take place. Luxury tourist resorts have opulent <i>ger</i> outfitted with snow leopard pelts and embroidered wall hangings. Most <i>ger </i>in the countryside have solar panels to power TVs, radios, charge cell phones, and even power the odd refrigerator. In Ulaanbaatar, the eponymous <i>ger </i>districts are crowded with once-mobile dwellings permanently nestled together on the dusty slopes around the city center, cheek-by-jowl with solid buildings and winding dirt tracks.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHM2N-69EOE54Niz6203mHvcDPENiE_QfS59ze1r9sYBV5htxrFuBeDeSc3Tuul1F8ql371lxGP-caaF1b9ohVlcBo_foiEAbF1YhMhN3KLYtWdwel82m0GBQRSsnMS_zLawSpRCU86D4/s1600/2010_Hunter_ger2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHM2N-69EOE54Niz6203mHvcDPENiE_QfS59ze1r9sYBV5htxrFuBeDeSc3Tuul1F8ql371lxGP-caaF1b9ohVlcBo_foiEAbF1YhMhN3KLYtWdwel82m0GBQRSsnMS_zLawSpRCU86D4/s640/2010_Hunter_ger2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mongolian <i>ger </i>under the stars (photo courtesy of Hunter Jackson Causey)</td></tr>
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A <i>ger </i>is not simply a utilitarian dwelling, despite how many non-Mongolians write about the <i>ger</i>; The <i>ger </i>is imbued with symbolic significance that leaks out into many aspects of Mongolian culture and language. For example, <i>ger </i>is part of the compound phrase for "family": <i>ger bul</i>. <i>Ger </i>is the stem for one verb that means "to marry": <i>gerlekh</i>. More specifically, the spatial practices that surround the <i>ger </i>elucidate a panoply of key beliefs and actions within Mongolian culture.<br />
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PEDANT'S CORNER: Mongolians who speak English or deal regularly with foreigners may refer to the <i>ger </i>as a <i>yurt</i>. <i>Yurt </i>is a Turkic word, whereas <i>ger </i>is a Mongolian word. Since <i>yurt </i>has broader global recognition than <i>ger</i>, you may hear some Mongolians use the term <i>yurt </i>instead. There are many types of mobile dwellings among the nomadic peoples of the Eurasian steppe, and <i>yurt </i>tends to be the catch-all term used by non-specialists. But, in Mongolia, <i>ger </i>is the correct term.<br />
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<u>So what is a <i>ger</i>?</u> <br />
A <i>ger </i>is a mobile abode composed of wood, felt, canvas, and rope. The Mongolian <i>ger </i>traditionally consists of lattice-frame "walls" tied together in a circle to make the frame of the <i>ger</i>,
then padded with felt, and finally covered in a white canvas outer
layer tied tight by two ropes around the circumference of the <i>ger</i>. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPOaa7nCDVcyTJRcLrn8vuV8baG7N6f6AZboppcHSm7bqSFOLoh1aVP9Cb1nHL21rJWeMws2PL2OYSh3o6boSROpRm-TjDZno0dlB66SzGKDUe3vCFWWIDxWQfHJN5_L0Z0EG66EIVhyc/s1600/Dream+Adventure+Spring+2014+from+their+FB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPOaa7nCDVcyTJRcLrn8vuV8baG7N6f6AZboppcHSm7bqSFOLoh1aVP9Cb1nHL21rJWeMws2PL2OYSh3o6boSROpRm-TjDZno0dlB66SzGKDUe3vCFWWIDxWQfHJN5_L0Z0EG66EIVhyc/s640/Dream+Adventure+Spring+2014+from+their+FB.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'skeleton' of a <i>ger</i> (photo courtesy of Dream Adventure ger camp)</td></tr>
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In the photo above, the <i>ger</i>'s 'skeleton' is almost complete: only the final spokes that make up the roof frame need to be added. The circular skylight at the center of the roof is traditionally supported by 108 spokes - 108 being a very important number in the tradition of Mongolian Buddhism - and two central posts that stand in the center of the living space. <br />
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The above <i>ger </i>has a solid, permanent floor. This is a more common practice in commercial spaces, specifically <i>ger </i>camps for travelers and tourists, and in Ulaanbaatar, where people do not plan to move their <i>ger </i>seasonally. A nomadic family will rarely have such a floor; instead, they will often opt for a mixture of carpet and laminated plastic for their floor. A nomadic family by definition moves their <i>ger </i>during the course of a single year. The number of moves depends on the region, environment, needs of the family, and other factors. In my experiences in Central Mongolia, nomadic households move four times a year (i.e., once per season).<br />
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A <i>ger </i>is made to be moved. It only take a few hours to take down or put up a <i>ger</i>. <i>Nuudel</i>, the seasonal migration of a nomadic herding household, centers around packing a household's belongings, taking down a <i>ger</i>, compactly bundling the component parts of the <i>ger</i>, packing everything onto a truck or cart (traditionally pulled by oxen, yak, or camels), and moving to the next seasonal location. Frankly it's amazing how easily an entire <i>ger </i>packs down and how little room it then ends up taking in a cart.<br />
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The size of a <i>ger </i>is measured by the number of "walls": a three-wall <i>ger </i>is much smaller than a five-wall <i>ger</i>. But how can a circular construction have any walls at all? Remember that it's the section of wooden lattice that make up the "walls" of a <i>ger</i>.<br />
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Most of the wood that makes up the <i>ger </i>structure is painted bright orange, although other colors or simple treated wood may also be used. The bright orange door against the brilliant white canvas instantly signals the <i>ger </i>aesthetic.<br />
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PRO-TIP: notice that the door of the <i>ger</i> is rather small. If you are tall, watch out! I have bumped my head against the doorframe of about 50 different <i>ger</i>. It hurts every time! Also avoid stepping on the doorframe.<br />
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The door of a <i>ger </i>always faces south. This not only protects against the ferocious north wind, it serves to anchor broader Mongolian concepts of space, direction, and orientation. Mongolians use the same word for "south" and "front", and for "north" and "back", which harks back to the orientation of a <i>ger</i> in the broader landscape. This helps explain Mongolian directional terms and orientation: south and front, north and back are synonymous. I'll discuss this in more depth in future. For now, picture a <i>ger </i>with a south-facing door:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcvUDbZUmA4aGjZUqT4JFnljVP68F6x3g3cRfM0bU3oillDxdWzGqnPr77_X4fgv1SbcJftNhpdXPN-2Ze-g8wENCBxqQ35BQ4JYfBceZH9FbxVkpXoL3sx99EaJLAJNCQDW7cz6iQouY/s1600/DSC_0112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcvUDbZUmA4aGjZUqT4JFnljVP68F6x3g3cRfM0bU3oillDxdWzGqnPr77_X4fgv1SbcJftNhpdXPN-2Ze-g8wENCBxqQ35BQ4JYfBceZH9FbxVkpXoL3sx99EaJLAJNCQDW7cz6iQouY/s640/DSC_0112.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Several <i>ger </i>together usually indicate an <i>ail</i>, a social unit that's usually extended families members living in one encampment together for at least part of the year. For example, at this <i>ail</i>, the grandfather and grandmother live in one <i>ger</i>, while their son, his wife, and their little boy live in the other <i>ger</i>. However, during winter time, the grandparents leave the countryside for the warmth of the nearby county seat. Also, there are invariably herd animals hanging around at various points during the day and night.</td></tr>
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The inside of a ger has its own spatial makeup: the four sections. Each section is associated with specific people and activities. Traditional Mongolian society has one of the most marked examples of codified domestic space that I have ever encountered. <br />
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Everything in Mongolia should be done clockwise, or <i>narny zuv</i>, so let's start from the door and work our way around:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMz0pKygdTYMDPYuOGZ7h6r-SpbpxrWhG2XNQhGjMYw6r2RnsktwhOGTNlgb6jkt6e9UATpQLErgz0A4JCtD9IxL3YoxnrtOVbZV0IIyJlCdr-Mdnaum32oWkrKRyoGbUjQZS-C2iJt_I/s1600/BMA2013+085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMz0pKygdTYMDPYuOGZ7h6r-SpbpxrWhG2XNQhGjMYw6r2RnsktwhOGTNlgb6jkt6e9UATpQLErgz0A4JCtD9IxL3YoxnrtOVbZV0IIyJlCdr-Mdnaum32oWkrKRyoGbUjQZS-C2iJt_I/s640/BMA2013+085.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering a <i>ger</i>: often the door is wide open for potential guests!</td></tr>
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PRO-TIP: just go on in. Despite the American standard that one would only enter someone's hosue after knocking and receiving an explicit invitation to enter, traditional Mongolian society takes a different view of visitors. In the 101 post, I mentioned some of the attributes of so-called steppe hospitality, one being that a visitor can enter someone's home at any time of the day or night with no notice and expect to be received hospitably. Nowadays in rural Mongolia, you should freely enter a <i>ger </i>once you ascertain that someone is home. (Hint: if the door is tied shut, if there are no horses on the hitching line, and/or there are no vehicles near the <i>ger</i>, no one is likely to be home.) In fact, it's better to confidently walk through the door than to hang around outside; this is something I still struggle with, even though I know I'm expected to just step inside, take a seat, and drink my milky tea already!<br />
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-Immediately upon entering a <i>ger</i>, the guest will go to his/her left to the guest section. But, contrary to what you might guess, the guest's section is considered the right-hand or western section of the <i>ger</i>. That's because the door is the front and south.<br />
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As a guest in a Mongolian home (literal <i>ger </i>or not), you should never come empty-handed. I included a brief mention of hospitality in Mongolian culture in the 101 post because it is extremely important. Yes, you can show up at a Mongolian home with nothing and no one will say anything; no, you're not going to be shamed or rebuked for failing to uphold the expectations of a guest. However, even the worst guest will be treated to their host's hospitality: their space, their time, and usually their food and drink. Therefore, it's important to bring at little a small something when you visit a <i>ger</i>. See the 101 post for my suggestions. As discussed in that same post, use your right hand or both hands when passing, giving, or receiving things, including whatever you've brought for your hosts.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfms-n9e0jieIzkGge5zVZCykg2romE2YZuGnulg4RVWTpxSm2AjNUiPC_UOoAs868Zwa6mAzKynuqwrI90E0-W43Y4xlm-jn0FPqlbiGTosu1zRKs751XeB-BlGKu1urHfex4yc0cYAk/s1600/2007_BGCger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfms-n9e0jieIzkGge5zVZCykg2romE2YZuGnulg4RVWTpxSm2AjNUiPC_UOoAs868Zwa6mAzKynuqwrI90E0-W43Y4xlm-jn0FPqlbiGTosu1zRKs751XeB-BlGKu1urHfex4yc0cYAk/s640/2007_BGCger.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guests spilling out of the western guest section into the back/northern section of a <i>ger </i>during a visit</td></tr>
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In the above photograph, notice how no one is sitting with their legs stretched out in front of them. This is because it is generally considered rude to point your feet at someone. Personally, I've found this to mean, don't direct the soles of your feet at someone, as toes don't seem to matter as much. It may seem surprising, but sitting or lying on the floor of a <i>ger </i>- even as a guest during a more formal visit - is perfectly acceptable, to the point that, as a guest during a long visit, you can nap on the floor like an adult toddler.<br />
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PRO-TIP: sit on the bed. No, really! You might think sitting on your host's bed is boorish, but in a <i>ger</i>, the bed doubles as a couch.<i> </i>Usually a <i>ger </i>has a bed against the wall in the guest section. <br />
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-The northern or back section inside a <i>ger </i>is called <i>khoimor</i>. This is where the head of the household (usually the father) sits when receiving guests. The family's shrine is also located in <i>khoimor</i> section. The makeup of a Mongolian family's shrine - if that is even the right term - varies family by family. Some of the common themes can be seen in the photos below:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkV71iBeh1Ly8sJ_61XhsjFbBXd1zu3g2ZSh7v9zRvmGqG58N923erOOub0ROeZfMqaXeLsZDFhNU5Y1NBeVqYdFduDb16wML8s5GBwsrdCRpndBHehbUdhfQguMNG9VzPRuTtVQJjWXY/s1600/BMA2013+043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkV71iBeh1Ly8sJ_61XhsjFbBXd1zu3g2ZSh7v9zRvmGqG58N923erOOub0ROeZfMqaXeLsZDFhNU5Y1NBeVqYdFduDb16wML8s5GBwsrdCRpndBHehbUdhfQguMNG9VzPRuTtVQJjWXY/s640/BMA2013+043.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautifully decorated chest on which a temporary family shrine was erected (this was a temporary, small <i>ger).</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPFMKWha4n5HTN-YtMr-c0RECDVCcIgKAT_AubFDIqssMrMKRg37mSxmBDJsnW8r1XP2uUs0Kr8RFb0B1MiSPfP37MiKZGOvr811QU6JnzVpVIzK26WvFVeLqOnAMz0d-JFRQvbOjyCcM/s1600/BMA2013+046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPFMKWha4n5HTN-YtMr-c0RECDVCcIgKAT_AubFDIqssMrMKRg37mSxmBDJsnW8r1XP2uUs0Kr8RFb0B1MiSPfP37MiKZGOvr811QU6JnzVpVIzK26WvFVeLqOnAMz0d-JFRQvbOjyCcM/s640/BMA2013+046.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up of some things one might see in a <i>ger</i> shrine: Buddhist paraphenalia, family photos, pictures of deities or revered figures, and so forth</td></tr>
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-The final section is the eastern or left-hand section, which is considered the wife's or woman's section. This is where the kitchen goods and food is usually stored. The iron stove in the middle of the <i>ger </i>opens to this section, making cooking easier for the wife of the family. When there are a lot of visitors to one <i>ger</i>, the entire family may sit in the eastern or left-hand section.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the back: note the iron stove in the center of the <i>ger </i>that opens to the eastern/wife's side of the <i>ger</i>, where a large ladle hands next to a cupboard for kitchen equipment</td></tr>
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Usually the wife of the family will serve her guests, unless it's vodka, which the husband or head of the household will pour and serve. Utensils and dishes are communal; guests and hosts will often take turns drinking <i>airag</i>, yogurt (<i>tarag</i>), and milky tea (<i>suutei tsai</i>)<i> </i>and eating <i>tsuivan</i> and soup (<i>shul</i>) out of the same one or two bowls. If you're a germophobe, you've come to the wrong country. You will likely also sample from the dish of snacks set aside for guests that usually has hard dried cheese curds (<i>aaruul</i>), bite-sized donut-like <i>bortsog</i>, and candy. <br />
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Let me stress that you should politely sample anything that you are offered in a Mongolian home. A small taste, a smile, and a thank-you (<i>bayarlalaa</i>: <i>buy-er-LA</i>) will do just fine. A guest turning down a host's hospitality is extremely rude. Mongolians as a rule are too polite to say this to foreigners but, one <i>gadaad khun </i>(meaning "foreign person") to another: unless you have an allergy or strong religious prohibition, you must try a bit of whatever food or drink your hosts press upon you. Usually a Mongolian host in the countryside is offering you 1) something home-made, 2) something the family is eating or will eat, and 3) usually includes products from their own herd animals that required time, labor, and expertise to make. When I visit a <i>ger</i> and see another non-Mongolian turn down that offer, all I can think is:<br />
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PRO-TIP: when the dish of snacks gets passed your way - clockwise, of course! - touch the base of the container with the tips of the fingers of your right hand. Then either take the dish or select one of the snacks. This is a polite way of taking food from a communal container.<br />
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In addition to the spaces and orientations of the <i>ger</i>, there are the correct movements and directions related to the <i>ger</i>. The most obvious and important is <i>narny zuv</i>, which I alluded to in the 101 post, which is clockwise. Literally it refers to the correct movement according to the sun. In traditional Mongolian culture, when in doubt, go <i>narny zuv</i>. When entering a <i>ger</i>, go immediately to your left in a clockwise direction and sit on a stool or bed in the guest quadrant. Clockwise movement is important beyond the confines of the <i>ger</i>: one moves through a Buddhist temple, observes at an <i>ovoo </i>(sacred rock cairn), and sometimes even plans an entire long-distance route moving <i>narny zuv</i>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjURkkdiuI7Z0gib6Gj1mbTk8kcYF5Wx32TiWOvodx2jPWSDUaE9X7wNhbXN3vQoXkiouI1qoaINCp57uMqZ5n_LgWKv3KM8DXpyfwT4bMnOFbOUc2pwzaFlQoT4T30lz-0CyIzUBPOlag/s1600/2014+Ugii+Lake+ovoo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjURkkdiuI7Z0gib6Gj1mbTk8kcYF5Wx32TiWOvodx2jPWSDUaE9X7wNhbXN3vQoXkiouI1qoaINCp57uMqZ5n_LgWKv3KM8DXpyfwT4bMnOFbOUc2pwzaFlQoT4T30lz-0CyIzUBPOlag/s640/2014+Ugii+Lake+ovoo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Narny zuv</i>: observing at an <i>ovoo </i>site by going clockwise around the cairn three times</td></tr>
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It is not always possible or practical to walk clockwise in a <i>ger</i>. Indeed, despite the expectation that a guest will enter clockwise and sit in the guest section, it would be bizarre for a guest to exit by continuing all the way around the <i>ger</i> interior. However, it is very important to never walk or pass anything between the posts that support the roof of the <i>ger</i>:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHFg9XurpCLIoW8NSw7EyCLJ55UImc2Cx2dXeY12UDFHX0nGB91zesBynvvBDk923i_zljxn5uLhl2QD8L4inr6f9WbFqbxyakm5xj_WXL2075tfbws07lwUkLr4Ew0sxnrA4cNcykNeM/s1600/Boldooinsideager.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHFg9XurpCLIoW8NSw7EyCLJ55UImc2Cx2dXeY12UDFHX0nGB91zesBynvvBDk923i_zljxn5uLhl2QD8L4inr6f9WbFqbxyakm5xj_WXL2075tfbws07lwUkLr4Ew0sxnrA4cNcykNeM/s640/Boldooinsideager.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Usually a <i>ger </i>has only two supporting posts for the roof. However, larger <i>ger </i>may have four, as in this photo. Although this is a particularly gorgeous <i>ger</i>, the additional painted imagery is something you will regularly see in Mongolian <i>ger</i> (courtesy of Munkhbold Zaankhuu)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
A quick recap of <i>ger </i>etiquette:<br />
<br />
-Move clockwise or <i>narny zuv</i><br />
-Know where to sit in the four quadrants (i.e., the guest section)<br />
-Use your right hand (or both hands) when accepting or giving items<br />
-Do not walk or pass objects between the two main posts<br />
-Do not step on the door frame<br />
-Do bring something for your host<br />
-Do not worrying about calling ahead or even knocking on the door when you visit<br />
-Do not stick your feet out at someone<br />
-At least sample whatever food and drink you are offered<br />
<br />
The <i>ger </i>is a tremendously important part of Mongolian society and a locus for a broad array of beliefs and practices that tie together seemingly-disparate parts of traditional Mongolian culture. I have heard a number of stories of older Mongolians who, after living much of their lives in <i>ger </i>in rural Mongolia moved to Ulaanbaatar late in life, speak forlornly of cramped city life and longingly of the comfort of their round <i>ger</i>. <br />
<br />
Yet some younger urban Mongolians resent the suggestion that all Mongolians live in <i>ger</i>, to the point that I wonder whether the <i>ger </i>is excluded from other ideas about the importance of valuing Mongolian cultural heritage. The meme below still circulates on Mongolian Facebook pages and indicates a desire on the part of whoever made and shared it to distance him/herself from the <i>ger</i> and traditional herding life in Mongolia; this is all the more strange when one considers that I've seen this image in Mongolian online spaces brimming with tremendous pride in Mongolian heritage, history, and culture (sometimes to the point of bellicose nationalism):<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3uBbRb7IU8TQz2UXUnkankIchGHSFmtyfAkGGSrODBzP9PGfNuccTEqfElRe71hNNzIi25FWVva7yY3XPblxZHYh1VckLpSmYb5JXrfOgfXW2hmmD5V5YaxkXit88UAUxBmqpF8LP4jw/s1600/Mongolian+FB+meme.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3uBbRb7IU8TQz2UXUnkankIchGHSFmtyfAkGGSrODBzP9PGfNuccTEqfElRe71hNNzIi25FWVva7yY3XPblxZHYh1VckLpSmYb5JXrfOgfXW2hmmD5V5YaxkXit88UAUxBmqpF8LP4jw/s400/Mongolian+FB+meme.jpg" width="396" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
There is so much to unpack here: </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
1) How many people in the English-speaking world know enough about Mongolia to have formed any ill-conceived stereotypes beyond "Genghis Khan, bro!!1!"; </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
2) Would any of those hypothetical bros even know what a <i>ger </i>looks like?; </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
3) What is wrong with living in a <i>ger</i>, especially when it means living in such a gorgeous spot; 4) Where in UB was this photo taken, because I have lived here for two years and honestly cannot tell you which part of the fairly-compact downtown area this is - seriously, where are the few recognizable UB skyscrapers in this photo?; </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
5) How many Mongolians living in UB, let alone Mongolians in general, actually live in the luxury high-rises picture above?; </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
6) What about the people in UB who live in <i>ger</i>?</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I imagine there is a loose parallel with how some kids who grow up in rural parts of America feel looked down upon by their urban and suburban peers as unsophisticated and often want to distance themselves from their country roots (this is based off of my experience graduating from a high school in a rural American farming community). My impression is that there is more ambivalence in Mongolia today regarding the relationship between modernization and cosmopolitanism on the one hand and tradition and authenticity on the other than one might realize. I would further argue that the <i>ger </i>may be a traditional dwelling but it is certainly a major feature of modern Mongolian life in the cities, small towns, and countryside. But it makes sense to me to start with the <i>ger </i>when it comes to introducing Mongolia and all things related to Mongolia.<br />
<br />
Despite focusing on the <i>ger</i>, food and drink came up enough in this post that they'll feature prominently in the 103 post. Stay tuned for the next post in the Mongolia Inside & Out series, where I reminisce about The Way Things Were (Ulaanbaatar edition) and share some tips on optimizing your Mongolian alimentary adventures.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-53927484156838468122015-07-02T07:22:00.000-07:002015-07-02T18:57:19.124-07:00Mongolia Inside & Out 101 - Welcome to Mongolia!Welcome to the first post in the Mongolia Inside & Out series! I hope you'll find this and subsequent posts interesting and useful for your future travels to the Land of Eternal Blue Heaven. Let's start with the basics of coming to Mongolia for the very first time. I'd say that there are 23 preliminary points to cover. Let's begin!<br />
<br />
<u>Before you leave for Mongolia:</u><br />
<br />
1. VISAS: Know the visa requirements for a) your citizenship and b) the purpose of your visit (study vs. tourism vs. business). If you're an American citizen entering without prior arrangements, you'll automatically receive a 30-day tourist visa. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-_dFaIsX7FdA001dgLC36L_qH_TQmNIBm3DaTHgJKin0fve5_ANH5qp1WE9m8Qpms0rwrcBQHxJc7sXbQ97zK3LP0gdoBJRfYv_y13KLAQQresm9-EfxJpOpik3NRjkLC6quoOspHBaQ/s1600/MNvisa1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-_dFaIsX7FdA001dgLC36L_qH_TQmNIBm3DaTHgJKin0fve5_ANH5qp1WE9m8Qpms0rwrcBQHxJc7sXbQ97zK3LP0gdoBJRfYv_y13KLAQQresm9-EfxJpOpik3NRjkLC6quoOspHBaQ/s320/MNvisa1.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wow, that is a terrible and blurry picture of my old tourist visas! I mean, I intentionally blurred this image to prevent passport fraud.</td></tr>
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PRO-TIP: extend your visa to 90 days by visiting Mongolian Immigration within 7 days of your arrival. This only costs a few bucks (official form you fill out on site, a passport photo) and a tenuous connection to Mongolia (name and address of your guesthouse and/or travel agency in Mongolia). Do not wait more than 7 days or you will be fined! The fines vary depending on who's working that day - I am not joking, this is how "official fines" often work in Mongolia - and you will need to pay in cash (Mongolian tugrik, or MNT). Mongolian Immigration is currently located just east of the airport along the main road into Ulaanbaatar before the space age-looking red and gray stadium.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtGV8LrPLxrx9IB1agi2aQFcNuVn6dg0FVGNfSlXHGgeuLQ4GY6D4zrWxhu-89uVk8KADQNl6ZlmaBI4ofwvGoKs0JsyAlHAwwncL8ffMIT4-YvJZUD4t6dXsbxlPyOUyvsrzTwlLsYs/s1600/Immigration1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtGV8LrPLxrx9IB1agi2aQFcNuVn6dg0FVGNfSlXHGgeuLQ4GY6D4zrWxhu-89uVk8KADQNl6ZlmaBI4ofwvGoKs0JsyAlHAwwncL8ffMIT4-YvJZUD4t6dXsbxlPyOUyvsrzTwlLsYs/s320/Immigration1.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Registration form at Mongolian Immigration: helpfully written in both English and Mongolian</td></tr>
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2. BOOK ONE NIGHT: If you make no other plans before setting foot in Mongolia, plan ahead to spend your first night in the country in a guesthouse or hotel. Unless you plan to go straight from the airport to rural Mongolia or you are joining an expedition team, you'll be glad you made a few arrangements in advance so that your arrival is as smooth as possible.<br />
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3. JOIN A TEAM, EXPEDITION, OR PROJECT. I find
most people who've had extremely positive experiences in Mongolia come
as part of a field program, a research expedition, a volunteer
expedition - something that requires them to work as part of a team on a
shared goal in the Mongolian countryside alongside international and
local volunteers or staff.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Wlj_oEG8IPWUv8MXijSlKIddfb3hY76YjojJ6ByoIYzO4tu4h28wj_-5QS2VCBBn1h_0TnCzh5y8Ya3Y7tnWvLNTZFP1DoSjM2I_G2wDPbnoC5zVgztLGwyPgR_7fU2VIfM6MVfiFhA/s1600/2005+team.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Wlj_oEG8IPWUv8MXijSlKIddfb3hY76YjojJ6ByoIYzO4tu4h28wj_-5QS2VCBBn1h_0TnCzh5y8Ya3Y7tnWvLNTZFP1DoSjM2I_G2wDPbnoC5zVgztLGwyPgR_7fU2VIfM6MVfiFhA/s400/2005+team.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Team work from the very beginning: 2005 expedition photo in Kharkhorin, Arkhangai Province</td></tr>
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A few months before you leave for Mongolia,
do a little research online into your options. Each summer there are
usually a few archaeological or conservation biology expeditions that
take paying volunteers or students, the National University of Mongolia
offers summer educational programs for international students, and some
NGOs offer volunteer opportunities (such as Lotus Guesthouse's programs
with Mongolian orphans and street kids). Keep an eye on the Center for
the Study of Eurasian Nomads' website (csen.org) for 2016 and future
field programs; CSEN has programs specifically for students and
adventurers from a variety of backgrounds and with different interests.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
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<u>Arriving at the airport</u><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DriyQdH5rQNr8colfNP4appWUfGkRLfEfqa8DJ_2YeURp7vXmrsxYljdbsMWJcIKGTj-oh6WNahGnqrhJ0RjMCwczjx77bzLQFTWHu08xIt5uPvtzbsZ-xMLCDL40VK7PW6j67Al5mE/s1600/Ulaan_Bataar_-_Airport.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DriyQdH5rQNr8colfNP4appWUfGkRLfEfqa8DJ_2YeURp7vXmrsxYljdbsMWJcIKGTj-oh6WNahGnqrhJ0RjMCwczjx77bzLQFTWHu08xIt5uPvtzbsZ-xMLCDL40VK7PW6j67Al5mE/s320/Ulaan_Bataar_-_Airport.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chinggis Khaan International Airport<br />
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">[<span style="text-align: start;">by User:Methos31 - Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons</span>]</span></td></tr>
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4. PICKUP: Have someone meet you at the airport (or train station). Plan to spend your first night in a guesthouse that offers complimentary airport pickup if you don't have Mongolian friends or colleagues. That way, you'll feel less overwhelmed when the pushy taxi drivers mob you just after you exit customs at Buyant-Ukhaa International Airport. You'll also be skipping the bus (more on that in a future post on domestic transportation and getting around Mongolia) and putting off the need to exchange money. Having someone who speaks Mongolian will also come in handy if your bags don't make it to Ulaanbaatar and you need to ask airport staff for help; this is a likely eventuality if you transited through Beijing.<br />
<br />
LANGUAGE: Be confident but non-aggressive when refusing the airport taxi drivers. If they try to take your luggage or luggage cart and steer you outside, keep a firm grasp and walk away to another part of the waiting room. You can also say, "<i>Avahgui</i>" ("ah - vah - GWEI"), which means you don't want their services. They will leave you alone if you act like you know what you're doing. <br />
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<u>First day/night in Ulaanbaatar:</u><br />
<br />
5. INCONVENIENCES: Chances are you're coming to Mongolia for the glorious summer weather: <i>Naadam</i>, field research, countryside adventures, and so forth. Summer weather in Ulaanbaatar signals the annual city-wide construction and repair overhaul. Each section of the city will go without hot water on a rotating "schedule" for long periods of time (weeks and months, not hours), builders will be drilling and hammering all hours of the night (despite city laws), major roads will be closed off in sections, and major construction projects will loom over many neighborhoods.<br />
<br />
This is a long way of saying: be prepared for some daily hassles when you are in UB. Be physically and emotionally prepared for cold showers. Don't be surprised by the noise and dirt of construction. Be ready for important routes to be closed, seemingly randomly. Give yourself some extra time to do anything you want to accomplish, take a deep breath, get a gelato or iced coffee, and chill out.<br />
<br />
6. MONEY: don't exchange, withdraw from an ATM. Mongolian banks and money changers are notorious for rejecting US currency that doesn't look perfect; minor creases and wrinkles are grounds for having your 100-dollar bills tossed back at you. In the past, I had a 50-60% success rate exchanging US bills. It's not worth the hassle!<br />
<br />
Instead, learn the international usage rules of your debit or credit cards and draw Mongolian cash directly from the various ATM around the city. Withdrawing from an ATM will usually get you the best exchange rate each financial institution offers. Although there are ATM littered throughout the city center, ideally you should withdraw money from an ATM inside a bank or store to minimize the chances of attracting the attention of pickpockets and thieves. Best bets: the large cache of ATMs on the 5th floor of the State Department Store (<i>Ikh Delguur</i>) near the elevators, the whole block near the Flower Center (both sides of the street), and the central Khaan Bank branch on Seoul Street past the Dublin Irish pub (and the other bank on the opposite side of the street). <br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: UB ATMs often run out of money. How can you tell? Obviously, if the person in line in front of you can't take out any money, you might as well jog on. On the other hand, you can tell if the ATM is running on empty when you insert your card. Most Mongolian ATMs will display a screen with "bills available" in the following denominations: 5,000; 10,000; 20,000. If an ATM has no 20,000 bills, you're unlikely to be able to draw out more than 100,000-200,000 MNT. Move on to greener pastures.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Ps1H1hhafg372dAdRJUhyphenhyphenn4DmQx_87vBYmmkqOuf0Dr_qBvERisJXGkn5YXte1usKQQdxtzMZFG3-MBD0u_st-DgYWiwnik6UYHJwraz7umO9_SFexf4TcPeK7eROah76_Sy4FfV4fw/s1600/MNT.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Ps1H1hhafg372dAdRJUhyphenhyphenn4DmQx_87vBYmmkqOuf0Dr_qBvERisJXGkn5YXte1usKQQdxtzMZFG3-MBD0u_st-DgYWiwnik6UYHJwraz7umO9_SFexf4TcPeK7eROah76_Sy4FfV4fw/s400/MNT.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Or move on to technicolor pastures, the rainbow of Mongolian <i>tugrik</i></td></tr>
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<br />
Have at least one credit/debit card with you for your time in Mongolia. Many venues now accept major international credit cards - VISA and Mastercard - and it's safer to have a card for emergencies or big-ticket items. Carrying around a lot of MNT in cash will attract unwanted attention but no one blinks an eye at credit cards. Pickpockets have not yet caught on to the value of credit cards; in my experience, they'll take the cash and toss the wallet (with all other contents) on the ground nearby for you or a helpful UB-er to pick up.<br />
<br />
Most importantly, you'll need a credit card to pay for emergency medical services in the worst-case scenario. Hospitals and health care providers in Mongolia do not accept international or travel insurance; you will pay costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Unless you carry upwards of $10,000 around with you, your credit card will be essential.<br />
<br />
7. FOOD AND DRINK: after a long international flight and arriving in a hot, dusty city (assuming it's summer time), you're at risk for dehydration, constipation, and a killer bout of jet-lag. Eating and drinking properly are your best remedies. Almost everyone experiences some digestive irregularities during their first few days in Mongolia. In addition to staying nourished and hydrated, you will be happier if you bring Tums and Immodium (and hold off on traditional Mongolian food for the first 24 hours).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRBAwOoeGzpwGEq_xo4epV-zuGJ9oRqm4p6jG-8BjT32rnEH4JnwiHwvVNPvsnXZDBF0Zx22cL7W-2rMhIO1NEd4Hg3R5svyH_B_RMnKBW03Oj4D4kQibyQdx22w44aR9rCwr7JX2zv8g/s1600/2013_WCh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRBAwOoeGzpwGEq_xo4epV-zuGJ9oRqm4p6jG-8BjT32rnEH4JnwiHwvVNPvsnXZDBF0Zx22cL7W-2rMhIO1NEd4Hg3R5svyH_B_RMnKBW03Oj4D4kQibyQdx22w44aR9rCwr7JX2zv8g/s320/2013_WCh.jpg" width="315" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Save the vodka and knock-off Pringles for your second day in Mongolia</td></tr>
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Drink plenty of water: the blazing blue sky and high altitude will have you dried out before you know what hit you. Water in UB is potable but not exactly healthy. Buy bottled water or use a personal filtration system.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: buy a large jug of bottled water and use it to refill a smaller bottle to cut down on waste and trips to the store. Since the water might get shut off unexpectedly, having a sufficient supply of personal water in your guesthouse or hotel is essential.<br />
<br />
I will do a separate post on eating and drinking in UB. Suffice it to say, try to get something to eat before you go to bed, because jet lag may have you up at 4am with hours before any restaurant or cafe is open.<br />
<br />
8. ACCOMMODATIONS: like I said, spend your first night in a guesthouse or hotel that includes complimentary airport pickup. For that first night, spend the money on a single room; when you stay in a shared room, you never know when other travelers will be coming and going. This is extra annoying when you first arrive because you're just settling in yourself.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: another reason to stay at a hotel or guesthouse with complimentary airport pickup is that you won't waste time and money trying to direct a cab to a difficult-to-find location. Most guesthouses are tucked away off the main streets; if you've never been, these places can be very hard to reach in a car. It's also difficult for non-Mongolians to immediately adjust to the Mongolian methods of directions and reaching desired locations (see below). If your driver works at the guesthouse or hotel, you'll get there without any hassles. <br />
<br />
Here are some recommendations for eight centrally-located guesthouses and hotels listed from roughly least to most expensive (as of July 2015):<br />
<br />
-UB guesthouse, located one block northwest of the Flower Center: http://www.ubguest.com/<br />
<br />
-Mongolian Steppe guesthouse, one block north of the State Department Store: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g293956-d1198849-Reviews-Mongolian_Steppe_Guest_House-Ulaanbaatar.html<br />
<br />
-Golden Gobi guesthouse, located one block directly east of the State Department Store: http://www.goldengobi.com/<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXr2pap_pBm5MpZB6mrcwX_py0hzSsKlSBODgIXuZIuGRPgwct2b9M6C4DNhay33Gz4tDFXRD90t1Xsol5UxXjj4y1SHd6-6G7_rwJN1B3yWOT4t3kr0JO9jli0nQhpNU60q9AOBRCS_k/s1600/Golden+Gobi+guesthouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXr2pap_pBm5MpZB6mrcwX_py0hzSsKlSBODgIXuZIuGRPgwct2b9M6C4DNhay33Gz4tDFXRD90t1Xsol5UxXjj4y1SHd6-6G7_rwJN1B3yWOT4t3kr0JO9jli0nQhpNU60q9AOBRCS_k/s320/Golden+Gobi+guesthouse.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance of Golden Gobi guesthouse (from http://patamateria.com/tag/terelj-national-park/)</td></tr>
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<br />
-Lotus guesthouse, located a bit further from the main drag (several blocks north of the Flower Center near the 5th school): http://lotusguest.com/<br />
<br />
-Corporate hotel, located just across from Monnis Tower southeast of the Grand Khaan Irish pub along Chinggis Avenue: http://www.corporatehotels.mn/pages/218/The-Corporate-Hotel.html<br />
<br />
-Bayangol hotel is just south of the Corporate hotel: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g293956-d306419-Reviews-Bayangol_Hotel-Ulaanbaatar.html<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwy6NLMQb3O-GQc6TCKV2W6_3V-MpeMuFjEpFcjDnNNZ65SRmrGP1oo3oPTdyXnkW5iFJwAvE41DlZQ9W0SmLBpq7CrbPAHb6yTcQ9JoRbIVjYg3pqPdsS2n2awwQyBNaEfZT2APvAQjk/s1600/bayangol-hotel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwy6NLMQb3O-GQc6TCKV2W6_3V-MpeMuFjEpFcjDnNNZ65SRmrGP1oo3oPTdyXnkW5iFJwAvE41DlZQ9W0SmLBpq7CrbPAHb6yTcQ9JoRbIVjYg3pqPdsS2n2awwQyBNaEfZT2APvAQjk/s320/bayangol-hotel.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bayangol hotel and restaurant (courtesy of Tripadvisor.com)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
-Ramada hotel is a larger tower just west of the Western Crossroads/<i>Baruun Zam</i> past Gandan monastery along Peace Avenue: http://www.ramadaub.mn/<br />
<br />
-Kempinski hotel is a major landmark in Sansar district at the Eastern Crossroads/<i>Zuun Zam </i>on the NE corner: http://www.kempinski.com/en/ulaanbaatar/hotel-khan-palace/welcome/<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: if you do not travel with a full sleeping bag and mat,
consider bringing along one or two bedsheets (or a sleeping bag liner). Most places in UB should
be clean enough, especially the hotels listed above, but there is nothing worse than realizing your bed is a
bit dingey at 12:30am on your first night in the country. Think of
your sheets as a protective barrier. They'll also come in handy when
you're out on your adventures (more on that later).<br />
<br />
9. NAVIGATING UB: easiest on foot when it comes to downtown central Ulaanbaatar, although the city is served by taxis (official and unofficial), buses, trolley buses, and micros (vans that follow numerous lines throughout the city and surrounding areas). Stick to traveling on foot when possible to avoid confusion, traffic jams, and being overcharged by taxi drivers.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5k1Es2-VmSseLR6xS06P5fjTYfcaDiwe4zDPyRQP1Ew8FL_BfS1ddAyTxyMXoH_hOBk7ALhI0BNeUyCJP1Y3ljLu0ui2AvTawP4l5qmsYzKAOu4Erc0K7WUMFukdOjjCDzMqVpaQeoqs/s1600/2010_BryceUB1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5k1Es2-VmSseLR6xS06P5fjTYfcaDiwe4zDPyRQP1Ew8FL_BfS1ddAyTxyMXoH_hOBk7ALhI0BNeUyCJP1Y3ljLu0ui2AvTawP4l5qmsYzKAOu4Erc0K7WUMFukdOjjCDzMqVpaQeoqs/s400/2010_BryceUB1.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chinggis/Sukhbaatar Square is one of the few places in UB you'll be safe from careening cars</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Addresses and street names are used very sparingly in Ulaanbaatar. Landmarks, even descriptions of nearby buildings, are used in their place. When asking locals for directions or trying to find your way, you will need to use landmarks and the cardinal directions. Mongolia gets enough sunshine that each day you should have no trouble sorting out east and west. Grab a simple tourist map of the city and orient yourself using the following well-known landmarks:<br />
<br />
-Peace Avenue (<i>Enkhtaivany Gudamj</i>)<br />
-State Department Store (<i>Ikh Delguur</i>)<br />
-Sukhbaatar/Chinggis Square (<i>Sukhbaatryn Talbai</i>)<br />
-Circus (<i>Tsirq</i>)<br />
-Peace Bridge (<i>Enkhtaivany Guur</i>)<br />
-Grand Khaan Irish Pub (great for navigation and grabbing a beer on a very crowded patio, not much else)<br />
<br />
The above landmarks are almost universally known amongst the UB general populace, easy to find on a tourist map, and located in the center of downtown. Memorize the walking route from your guesthouse or hotel to the nearest of these locations.<br />
<br />
10. COMMUNICATIONS. If you plan to stay in UB for over a week, consider getting a cell phone. Tedy Center (a tall white building several blocks north of the State Department Store near the Tengis Cinema) sells phones at all price levels as well as a SIM card and <i>negij </i>(minutes). You need a passport or government-issued ID to buy a SIM card. Many travel agencies will rent you a cell phone for a short period of time; inquire directly for rates.<br />
<br />
While wireless internet is not available throughout the city, many locations provide it, including cafes (Nayra, Caffe Bene, Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf), restaurants (Rosewood, Loving Hut), and almost any guesthouse or hotel. Currently Facebook is the medium by which the vast majority of Mongolian businesses communicate and advertise. Your best bet for finding a restaurant or travel agency's office location is likely by searching on Facebook.<br />
<br />
11. SAFETY. While Mongolia is generally a safe country, there are particular dangers faced by travelers who spend time in UB.<br />
<br />
-Traffic is not just a nuisance, it's a real hazard: pedestrians do not have the right of way, cars often speed unexpectedly through traffic lights, down footpaths, or the wrong way down a street. When crossing the street, try to cross in a small group - safety in numbers - and be aware of cars potentially driving at your from behind. If you spend any time in UB, you'll likely sit through at least one traffic jam. Most taxis do not have working seat belts and there's not much you can do to stay safe when someone else is driving. When things are getting particularly dicey, you might try saying, "<i>Bolgoomjtoi yavaarai</i>" [bol-GOMJ-tai yah-vaa-RAY] to your driver and hope s/he slows down and drives more carefully.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: everyone in UB is well aware of the dangers of cars, traffic, and crossing the road. Pedestrians will often clump together in an unspoken agreement to cross together. On the other hand, an elderly Mongolian may grab your arm with little or no warning. This is a common practice within a broader age-based hierarchy of social relations, where younger people are traditionally expected to help and respect their elders. If you get grabbed by an <i>emee </i>(granny) or <i>uvuu</i> (gramps) on the sidewalk, slow down and let them lean on you while you cross. They may try to talk to you or thank you, but don't be offended if they don't say anything. In fact, you should be honored that they assumed you would help them! <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5HbO1NpvMVr80EvKAa5M7c92BlLMyEu0zvPQH0KtyhEmtuLYIo6JW3tOJXyYI11cpJ6gU7MWg3SEfTYAPng1aY_eCOFUIBs2V5XQb4xpopBzpIBAn0o9T-mcnkSKpBuZlViiEttAiuik/s1600/Traffic+in+BGC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5HbO1NpvMVr80EvKAa5M7c92BlLMyEu0zvPQH0KtyhEmtuLYIo6JW3tOJXyYI11cpJ6gU7MWg3SEfTYAPng1aY_eCOFUIBs2V5XQb4xpopBzpIBAn0o9T-mcnkSKpBuZlViiEttAiuik/s400/Traffic+in+BGC.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traffic in Dundgovi Province: a lot less honking and a lot more humps than UB traffic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
-Theft and pickpockets. UB pickpockets are not particularly skillful but they can be a persistent nuisance. Some obvious points that many travelers forget: do not keep valuables or cash in your pockets, do not carry a backpack or purse unless you can wear it across your front, don't take your wallet/cash/Iphone out on the street for any reason, and store your valuables in a safe at your hotel or guesthouse when you're out and about in the city. Walk quickly and with purpose when you're on crowded streets - a great way to shake pickpockets and ward off potential hasslers. Don't feel rude about ignoring people who try to talk to you on the street; unfortunately, there are people legitimately in need or simply asking innocent questions, but you can't sort a pickpocket gang from a curious stranger until it's too late.<br />
<br />
-Anti-foreigner sentiment. Nationalism and xenophobia are strange, complex phenomena in modern Mongolia that intertwine in disturbing ways. You will see swatiska emblems on clothing (T-shirts, belts, patterns on traditional fabric), cars, and flags; where a particular swatiska falls on the Buddhism to National Socialism spectrum is very much dependent upon the particular case. A future post in the Mongolia Inside & Out series will focus on nationalism and xenophobia in Mongolia, especially in Ulaanbaatar. For now, keep in mind that you may unfortunately experience some anti-foreigner sentiment during your time in Mongolia. In my experience, this happens very rarely outside of UB. There is no sure-fire way to predict or avoid hostile or violent xenophobia in Ulaanbaatar. On the other hand, you may experience zero negative attitudes or behavior during your time in Mongolia.<br />
<br />
Some basic tips for dealing with anti-foreigner sentiment in Ulaanbaatar: avoid nightclubs and bars that seem rowdy or sketchy (if the vibe is off when you walk in the door, turn right around and try somewhere else), stay in well-populated and well-lit areas after dark, travel in pairs or a small group whenever possible (especially at night), know where you are at all times (i.e., nearest major landmark and how to get there on foot), don't get drunk (especially by yourself), don't take a taxi by yourself after dark, ignore strangers who approach you on the street or other public place, avoid someone who seems drunk or belligerent (create physical distance by moving away quickly but unobtrusively), just ignore it if someone shouts at you on the street (pretending not to understand or hear them means they don't get the rise out of you that they're aiming for), and get to somewhere you feel safe if you're feeling rattled (a nice restaurant, a shopping mall, a museum, a hotel, etc.).<br />
<br />
Another way to deal with negative attention is to embrace your status as an outsider. Dress to accentuate your height and size, wear a giant faux-fur hat, and stomp around in humongous boots. The 'winter bear' look seems to work for me!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9MsVjvRNfSMEyE-lCjQlJ2P2QXhaMyeWda_ptisHFzzo5YJVihmetjUwin8QIWUzN_7PNpWZ1aWSwu42Um9LI3oB6AXQFB1ZO6n3u7QuEDhx2JhyDBBhTPzvC1Krc7paVHvjKHp9MDZc/s1600/Scary.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9MsVjvRNfSMEyE-lCjQlJ2P2QXhaMyeWda_ptisHFzzo5YJVihmetjUwin8QIWUzN_7PNpWZ1aWSwu42Um9LI3oB6AXQFB1ZO6n3u7QuEDhx2JhyDBBhTPzvC1Krc7paVHvjKHp9MDZc/s320/Scary.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is that a giant foreigner in a winter coat, or bipedal bear ominously shuffling towards you across the ice? Either way, better run for it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<u><br /></u>
<u>Intro to Mongolian Language and Cultural Norms</u><br />
12. LANGUAGE: Mongolian is a challenging language for most native speakers of English, Germanic, and Romance Languages due to its grammar, syntax, and pronunciation. Contrary to a strangely popular misconception, Mongolian is unrelated to Mandarin; speaking either Mandarin or Cantonese in Mongolia will not earn you any brownie points at all. In my experience, few people pick up Mongolian quickly or gain any proficiency without long-term study and exposure to the language.<br />
<br />
However, anyone can master a few of the essential phrases and vocabulary: <br />
<br />
- Тийм [<i>team</i>]<i> </i>- "Yes"<i> </i>(variants include <i>tea</i> and <i>team-ey</i>)<br />
- Үгүй [<i>oo-GWEI</i>]<i> </i>- "No" (variants include <i>goo</i> and <i>ugoo</i>)<br />
- Баярлалаа [<i>buy-ar-LAA</i>] - "Thank you"<br />
- Уучлаарай [<i>OOCH-la-ray</i>] - "Sorry"/"Excuse me"<br />
- Юу гэнэ? [<i>YOU gen-ai</i>] - "What did you say?"<br />
<br />
<br />
*There is no direct translation for 'hello' in Mongolian. Instead, people use the call-and-response phrases below: <br />
- Сайн байна уу? [<i>sann ban oo</i>] - "Hello, how are you?"<br />
- Сайн, сайн байна уу? [<i>sann</i>, <i>sann ban oo</i>] - "I'm well, and how are you?"<br />
<br />
- Баяртай! [<i>buy-ar-TAY</i>] - "Goodbye!"<br />
<br />
<br />
- Намайг Emma гэдэг [<i>nah-MAYG </i>Emma <i>geh-deg</i>] - "My name is Emma"<br />
- Би Амэрик хүн [<i>bee Americk khoon</i>] - "I'm an American" (Canadian: <i>canad</i>; English: <i>angle</i>; Korean: <i>so-LONG-gous</i>)<br />
- Та англи хэл мэдэх уу? [<i>ta angle hell MED-deh-huu</i>] - "Do you know (how to speak) English?"<br />
- Би ойлгохгүй байна [<i>bee oll-GOKH-gwei ban</i>] - "I don't understand"<br />
- Дахиад хэлээрэй [<i>dah-KHI-ahd khel-leh-RAY</i>] - "Please say that again"<br />
- Цаасан дээр бичээрэй [<i>TSAAS-an dare bee-che-RAY</i>] - "Please write that down on this paper"<br />
<br />
13. BASIC ETIQUETTE AND CULTURAL NORMS: it's impossible for me to
cover this topic exhaustively in the 101 post. Here are a few key points that should help you from the moment you get off the plane:<br />
<br />
-Use
your right hand only: paying, taking, giving, shaking hands, etc. Even
if it's inconvenient, make the effort to only deal with others using
your right hand (both hands, if you want, but never just your left
hand).<br />
<br />
-Watch your feet: if you step on someone's foot or even
touch someone's foot with your own, reach out to grasp their right hand
with yours. Feet are considered dirty and touching someone with your
foot is a definite faux pas. When sitting in a <i>ger </i>(traditional
Mongolian home), don't stick your feet out at anyone sitting across from
you if you feet are soles up. <br />
<br />
-Conceptions of personal space in
Mongolia differ markedly from those in the US. In Ulaanbaatar, people on the streets
and in stores will bump up against you, wander slowly and aimlessly into
your path (and cut in line, of course), and crush against you on the
bus (and, when I say crush, I really mean crush!). Be the rock in a stream of people. Don't be aggressive but don't move out of the way. Stand there
like a serene, unmovable oak tree as others mill about you. It helps if
you're big and tall, but just consciously being solid will help you deal. When I went to the most important and widely-attended of the horse races at last summer's national <i>Naadam</i>, my friends and I experienced the largest, most aggressive crowds I'd ever seen in Mongolia. As my large and solid frame was tossed and squeezed by Mongolians around me, many locals worried out loud that a foreigner wouldn't be able to handle Mongolian crowd behavior. In other words, if you're coming from North America, urban culture and public behavior in Ulaanbaatar is going to strike you as quite different (and likely as rather rude). Be prepared for that difference and to hold your ground accordingly.<br />
<br />
-Children are
beloved in Mongolian society. Child-free businesses, restaurants, or
spaces are basically unheard of. If you're traveling with children, you
will find this delightful. If you're not particularly tolerant of
boisterous children wandering into your personal space, be prepared to
loosen up and become less of a grump.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDKq_3Wd63VHETike1E8U49FXDjbTtWcGFjB_3HDxYhkseMHYzXI3USUlyrrJ9vEo-Q1nIE1WF93Xv_n-ckYgbknCgA0tfbn00VRDtzaM7rCrjWdMsJdqMuowumab5a0RZi-gPcFQLxOg/s1600/Train+station+in+Sainshand+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDKq_3Wd63VHETike1E8U49FXDjbTtWcGFjB_3HDxYhkseMHYzXI3USUlyrrJ9vEo-Q1nIE1WF93Xv_n-ckYgbknCgA0tfbn00VRDtzaM7rCrjWdMsJdqMuowumab5a0RZi-gPcFQLxOg/s640/Train+station+in+Sainshand+2.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mongolian children often pull their own weight and pitch in, like this cutie-pie at the Sainshand train station (Dorngovi Province)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
-Hats: don't touch someone else's hat unless specifically told to do so. Mongolians believe that one's <i>khiimor</i>
(roughly equivalent to mojo or life-energy) concentrates in the head
and gathers in a hat. Touching or messing with someone's hat messes
with their <i>khiimor</i>. Also, don't step on or over someone's hat - even worse when you involve your dirty feet!<br />
<br />
-Hand over, don't toss: hand things directly to someone with your right hand (or both hands). Tossing papers, your passport, money, and other items is considered rude here in Mongolia. I notice than many non-Mongolians never pick up on this but are surprised when shop-keepers or waitstaff are cold or rude to them. Mongolian customer service generally leaves a lot to be desired, but you may be unintentionally offensive in very basic transactions if you're not paying attention.<br />
<br />
-Paying
with cash: hand the bills flattened out held between your fingers and
thumb. Don't wedge a folded bill between your index and middle finger,
or hand someone folded or wadded up bills. Rude!<br />
<br />
-Clockwise is the right way: called <i>narny zuv</i>,
which roughly translates to "correct sun direction", Mongolians
traditionally move clockwise whenever possible. This is very important
when you are in a Mongolian <i>ger</i>, a Buddhist temple, or at an <i>ovoo </i>site, but still matters in other spaces. <br />
<br />
-If
you are on a bus and an elderly person gets on, give up your seat if
none are available. This is part of the same age-based system of respect and assistance that leads elderly Mongolian folks to grab your elbow at the crosswalk. Most Mongolians will jump up first, but recognize
that part of polite behavior is giving up your bus seat for the
elderly. <br />
<br />
-Overly personal questions are not considered rude.
Complete strangers will ask you your age, your marital status (and if
you're looking for a Mongolian wife or husband), how many children you
have (or when you will have children), and so forth immediately upon
meeting you. This is quite normal. If you feel uncomfortable, just
laugh and pretend that you don't understand the question. <br />
<br />
-And,
finally, learn some basic phrases! Even some very rudimentary Mongolian
will smooth over little social difficulties and help you make friendly
connections in unexpected places.<br />
<br />
<u>Weather, comfort, health</u><br />
A few quick notes, as I'll
address these topics in more detail in subsequent posts, in case you're
heading straight from the airport to rural Mongolia.<br />
<br />
14.
INFECTIOUS DISEASE AND IMMUNIZATIONS. No immunizations are required to
enter the country. Mongolia is free from most diseases that travelers
worry about, such as malaria or dengue fever. The biggest risks of
infection are Hepatitis (A, B, C), STDs (syphilis, gonorrhea,
chlamydia), tuberculosis, rabies, and the bubonic plague (yes, really).
Get your Hep series and a rabies inoculation before coming, practice
safe sex, and avoid marmot meat. Marmots (<i>tarvag</i>) are hosts of
the fleas that carry the plague bacteria. Marmot meat is a delicacy in
Mongolia. Ergo, avoiding marmot meat will most likely keep you 100%
safe from the plague. There are specific anti-biotics for the plague if
you're very concerned.<br />
<br />
15. FOOD SAFETY. Clean is a
relative term. When dining in the Mongolian countryside (and somewhat
in UB), let go of your expectations when it comes to clean dishes and
sterile meals; floaties, hairs, and shared utensils abound. Many
travelers experience "irregularities" when first coming to Mongolia, but
usually nothing more than some traveler's diarrhea or constipation. I
recommend Immodium and dried fruit (and some <i>airag</i>), respectively. <br />
<br />
16. KEEPING CLEAN. Some <i>ger </i>camps
will have showers and you may happen across rivers and lakes for
swim-bathing. Otherwise, you'll be hard-pressed to keep clean in the
Mongolian countryside. Baby wipes, hand sanitizer, dry shampoo, and
deodorant will be your salvation. Pack to change your socks and undies
daily but your outer layers only a few times.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: if you are
tent-camping or staying with nomadic families for multiple nights in a
row, take morning and evening tent 'baths'. Start with baby wipes, dust
yourself with powder (don't forget your hair!), and liberally apply
deodorant. If you do this twice daily, it'll take longer for you to get
truly groady. <br />
<br />
17. FACILITIES. Bathrooms in Mongolia
leave something to be desired if they are present at all. The situation in UB has improved tremendously since 2005, when even bathrooms in nice restaurants would have toilets without seats, no toilet paper (often still an issue), maybe no sink, and definitely no soap to wash your hands (this one is still a widespread problem). Outhouses
and pit toilets are, as a rule, gross. Often you'll be using a 'steppe
toilet': any convenience natural screen (tall grass, small ravine)
between you and the curious gaze of locals and other travelers. If
you're feeling brave and/or modest, ask, <i>"Nuil khaana baigaa ve?</i>" [noil khaan BAI-gaa ve], and hope someone can direct you to the nearest 'bathroom'.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcPMu4tImZ49nB_tlTLCL6bD9SOj7qTj4aPRgC1Nr9kQj3nVIDSYSNj6LoFFF64pQvKhJJKxCwhsxoXGqbDTnzUdWzOaJj1ClYs_y04kioRCv21L95QORVEPA81cz9cNmPpKYJFMuhE-A/s1600/DSC_0008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcPMu4tImZ49nB_tlTLCL6bD9SOj7qTj4aPRgC1Nr9kQj3nVIDSYSNj6LoFFF64pQvKhJJKxCwhsxoXGqbDTnzUdWzOaJj1ClYs_y04kioRCv21L95QORVEPA81cz9cNmPpKYJFMuhE-A/s640/DSC_0008.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How many bathrooms can you find in this picture? Hint: more than you'd think!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
PRO-TIP:
if you need to squat while doing your business but there's not much of a
screen, face your onlookers and hold a shirt or coat over your waist.
Yes, looking people in the eye while doing your business is super
awkward, even if at a distance. On the other hand, it's less awkward
than showing off your full moon for all to see.<br />
<br />
18.
HEALTH CARE. Aside from emergencies, avoid seeking medical carewhile in
Mongolia. If you must, visit Songdo, SOS Medica, or Intermed in
Ulaanbaatar for higher quality services. SOS Medica operates the
emergency medical evacuation services for Mongolia. Look them up before
leaving the city so you know who to call in the worst-case scenario.
In an emergency, call your embassy, your local hosts (travel company,
NGO) and SOS Medica, so that you have multiple parties to help you
through the crisis. Don't bother with the Mongolian police or standard
emergency services - they don't speak English and they're generally unhelpful.<br />
<br />
19. WEATHER
AND CLIMATE. Mongolia has an extreme climate: arid yet subject to
occasional extreme downpours; freezing in winter and sweltering in
summer; hail, rain, high winds, and blazing sunshine all in one day; and
country-wide high altitudes. Winter temperatures easily plummet to -40F and further, and
summer heatwaves push upwards of 100F in the Gobi regions. The intensity of
the sun is striking and most travelers are unprepared for just how harsh
the sunlight can be, even in winter. Night-time temperatures can drop
below freezing even during summer time. Suffice it to say, pack with
the great range in temperature and weather in mind!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCEL1BWFref4iEUb7rnbv7k-wn8lWGlHt4rd3C_EXfEEJIbBqyU72WLjIp3Fy3ijtDYFS_kiSTwH6sScCh0SHXByogy8O4Kqdj2-y7lC-2a4V6MR2YDj9KtuXe57b4jjkLdsgtV_CQxOA/s1600/DSC_0460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCEL1BWFref4iEUb7rnbv7k-wn8lWGlHt4rd3C_EXfEEJIbBqyU72WLjIp3Fy3ijtDYFS_kiSTwH6sScCh0SHXByogy8O4Kqdj2-y7lC-2a4V6MR2YDj9KtuXe57b4jjkLdsgtV_CQxOA/s640/DSC_0460.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching rainstorm in Bulgan Province: the upside of Mongolia's extremely changeable weather is that you can usually see it coming</td></tr>
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Mongolia's
weather is extremely tempermental. In a single day, you may experience
major fluctuations in temperature, sudden rain showers, and surprise
windstorms. Keep warm with a good quality sleeping bag (and pad if you
will be in a tent), polar fleece, cold-weather hat and gloves, and at
least one set of thermals or long underwear. Keep dry with a rain
slicker or poncho, water-proof shoes, and quick-drying pants. Keep cool
with layers (tank top, light-weight button-down shirt, khakhi pants,
shorts), a hat with a brim, and sandals. Keep the sun at bay with
quality sunglasses, sunscreen (SPF 30 at a minimum), and moisturizer.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP:
covering your skin is important. Contrary to some rumors, Mongolia is
not a conservative society when it comes to attire. Although you should
cover your shoulders (and sometimes legs) when visiting a temple or
monastery, showing some skin might get you noticed but not rebuked or
shunned. The real reason to cover up is for your own protection from
the elements. I've had sun sickness twice in Mongolia because I
underestimated the strength of the sun while doing physical activities
outdoors. Of course you should always apply sunscreen liberally and
regularly throughout the day, but I've found that having a physical
screen between my skin and the harsh rays of the Mongolian sun is
imperative. <br />
<br />
<u>Getting ready to get out of UB</u><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Country roads, take me home...</td></tr>
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Let's be honest: unless you're working or studying, you likely didn't come to Mongolia to spend your time in UB. The best of Mongolia is out under eternal blue heaven: the rolling steppe, the forested hills, the red-rock canyons, the winding rivers, the golden sand, and the snow-capped peaks of Mongolia's 21 provinces.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Standing between heaven and earth in Dundgovi Province</td></tr>
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20. HELP WITH TRAVEL PLANNING. If you didn't do any research before arriving in Mongolia, consider going to a travel agency or tour company for help. Know your budget: the high-end operations (like Nomadic Expeditions, located on Peace Avenue just west of the State Department Store) will provide something very different than the budget options (like TTR-Mongolia, located east of the State Department Store) when it comes to travel and adventure in rural Mongolia. If you're with an experienced field researcher or tour guide, you'll
learn all about different aspects of Mongolian traditional culture,
history, the environment, and language as you pass what often looks like
empty space or piles of rocks to the untrained eye. At a minimum, try contacting other travelers to Mongolia before you arrive (via Tripadvisor and various Facebook groups) or at backpacker hangouts in UB in order to band together for cost-saving measures and companionship during your rural adventures.<br />
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PRO-TIP: I cannot overemphasize how much more rewarding your Mongolian adventures will be if you enlist people to help you navigate the culture and the country. The odds that either 1) you or your friends speak Mongolian, or 2) you regularly meet countryside folks who speak conversational English (or German, Japanese, Russian, or Spanish) are very slim indeed. Unless you can hold a conversation (even in translation), you'll be missing out almost entirely on the famous steppe hospitality of countryside folks, on the history and legends of each place, on recommendations of where to go and what to see, and on any warnings or instructions. Without a 4-wheel drive vehicle at your disposal, there's simply a ton of the countryside that will be utterly inaccessible to you, and going without a good driver is extremely inadvisable. If you're traveling independently, spend a little extra money on a driver and a guide/translator - you'll thank me later.<br />
<br />
21. TRAVEL IN RURAL MONGOLIA. To see anything worth seeing or to do anything worth doing, you need to drive a long way. There's no getting around it. Don't be tempted by trips that promise a short drive; you will end up at a crowded <i>ger </i>camp (cross between a trailer park, summer camp, and resort) in Terelj, the touristy, overrun national park just east of Ulaanbaatar. There are some lovely secluded spots in Terelj, but you need to know where to go ahead of time. A good compromise is Dream Adventure, a small camp run by a young Norwegian-Mongolian couple in a small valley less than two hours from the city just far enough from Terelj's crowds to feel like the 'real' Mongolian countryside. In general, be prepared to drive (and maybe even fly)!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM7eW9-iPCRMTU6a3ovZyw9tLWRhSHZx0kpvaMTShOPYQO0IYyVlMX5SRm7cFwa5KSBPom1xMFAttuaJsmV5eGditpvfIfpNsZMr_SkpljPYcoRB1wcQ0fyzq5l-sSNa5cr6erZE4a4hs/s1600/Dream+Adventure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM7eW9-iPCRMTU6a3ovZyw9tLWRhSHZx0kpvaMTShOPYQO0IYyVlMX5SRm7cFwa5KSBPom1xMFAttuaJsmV5eGditpvfIfpNsZMr_SkpljPYcoRB1wcQ0fyzq5l-sSNa5cr6erZE4a4hs/s640/Dream+Adventure.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Dream Adventure <i>ger </i>camp is one of the few lovely and secluded places you can reach within a relatively short drive from Ulaanbaatar</td></tr>
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22. DON'T GO IT ALONE. For financial and safety reasons, travel in small groups is the way to go. Hiring a driver, off-road vehicle, and Mongolian translator/guide will vastly improve your experience in rural Mongolia. This, however, can get very expensive if you're traveling solo or in a couple. Join forces with other travelers to split costs and make new friends. If you don't want to join an organized program, as recommended above, look for like-minded travelers through Trip Advisor or Lonely Planet's online services, or check out guesthouses and backpacker haunts in UB after you've arrived. While Mongolia is basically a very safe country, accidents, misunderstandings, or medical emergencies out in the countryside can be extremely dangerous if you don't have people who can understand and help you.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5PBpemSLSv7DWXmNZxc-NlCA7fabfOfeTQPymxNIs4K8QxR0WF9PZfPJOEFVQGRL6xPdrVUjoP0ct6xNuzVnjZzPLgaXGn0YZYq2PRQTQWHxl1Byc4IOV7NC1xISNzOn56_l-zpYCPnA/s1600/Trip+1_010_15222193916_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5PBpemSLSv7DWXmNZxc-NlCA7fabfOfeTQPymxNIs4K8QxR0WF9PZfPJOEFVQGRL6xPdrVUjoP0ct6xNuzVnjZzPLgaXGn0YZYq2PRQTQWHxl1Byc4IOV7NC1xISNzOn56_l-zpYCPnA/s320/Trip+1_010_15222193916_l.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not pictured: going it alone</td></tr>
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23. HOSPITALITY & GENEROSITY. Traditional Mongolian society is built around gift exchange, where social relations are enacted through giving and receiving appropriate items at appropriate times. Most Mongolians, particularly those leading the traditional lifestyle outside of Ulaanbaatar, are incredibly generous with their property, time, and kindness. Steppe hospitality of traditional nomadic society dictates that strangers can enter a home or <i>ger </i>out in the countryside at any time, day or night, and expect to be provided with food, drink, help, and a place to sleep without advanced notice or payment. The harsh nature of the Mongolian climate and landscape forced people to develop a "help thy neighbor" attitude in recognition that anyone might similarly find themselves at the mercy of the elements in the future.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately, visitors to Mongolia over the last 20 years abused this system by taking advantage of that generosity without being generous in return: numerous foreigners ate with nomadic families, slept in their homes, and shared their space without any return gestures of hospitality. Despite this, the majority of countryside people (<i>khuduunii khumuus</i>) are still incredibly hospitable. Those visiting Mongolia should feel a moral obligation to be thankful and generous in return. Practically speaking, this means bringing some small gifts or snacks along with you to share with your Mongolian hosts and friends, occasionally paying for some services (like horseback riding or buying meat), and learning enough of the culture and language to behave like an appropriate guest (see my previous points on language and etiquette, although I will explore these topics more in depth in future Mongolia Inside & Out posts).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGy_9XuhVFpq8qlEtz9FKCj0xauQeRMnIn5fBEmhfFL2IYrWJxIxV8DHoCaniUMvG9l0y8bn-OkvnkyMR-r2G1hBQX4SEuGxrVldRWRcwUqEJOOMksVyLCslS4Z_R3EP3Qw-dxAFKgne8/s1600/IMG_1956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGy_9XuhVFpq8qlEtz9FKCj0xauQeRMnIn5fBEmhfFL2IYrWJxIxV8DHoCaniUMvG9l0y8bn-OkvnkyMR-r2G1hBQX4SEuGxrVldRWRcwUqEJOOMksVyLCslS4Z_R3EP3Qw-dxAFKgne8/s320/IMG_1956.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendly is as friendly does: guest-host relations in Bulgan Province</td></tr>
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PRO-TIP: travel with a Mongolian guide, assistant, or translator to help you play your part as an appropriate guest. Joining a team or hiring a translator will insure that at least someone in your group knows the correct behavior in a given setting or is equipped to ask politely. This includes determining whether you are actually welcome to visit with this family, how to eat and drink what you're offered, and when it's time to leave; in my experience, rural Mongolians are generally too polite to give those kinds of directives or tell you to scram so that they can get back to work. Sometimes your hosts in the countryside will make a request of you - let's take a picture together, sing us a song, come with me to my sister's place, add me as a friend on Facebook - that you won't understand if you don't have someone translating for you.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX4ikPkINZcnyCVbIBQHi-JQZl0QuQXgI2y9Ykf0ZI-r7b-ZR0wL-TYCyZeIoyIcnGRKRUCIUqiYOVTbaP51vYysuHDxnytdAro2mbpxvZflxdjViBjf3ai3HvEL5Cjl9SPaXEB92OL9c/s1600/Trip+4+-+Bat-Ulzii+baseball+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX4ikPkINZcnyCVbIBQHi-JQZl0QuQXgI2y9Ykf0ZI-r7b-ZR0wL-TYCyZeIoyIcnGRKRUCIUqiYOVTbaP51vYysuHDxnytdAro2mbpxvZflxdjViBjf3ai3HvEL5Cjl9SPaXEB92OL9c/s400/Trip+4+-+Bat-Ulzii+baseball+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basebell: minimal translation required</td></tr>
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When you are invited into a <i>ger</i> in the countryside, you will be offered snacks and <i>suutei tsai</i> (milky tea - see above) at a minimum. As a grateful guest, you should 1) politely accept and sample whatever you are offered (even if you don't like it) and 2) offer something to your hosts in return at the end of the visit. This is not a strict obligation but an act of respectful acknowledgment of your host's efforts. Sweets, like lollipops or individually-wrapped candies, are a good choice for a large family; a family with young children would appreciate a few small toys or stickers (crayons, a volleyball, bubble blowers); an older family might prefer some staples (a bag of flour, a packet of noodles, a jar of jam or pickled vegetables); an honored host would appreciate a nice bottle of vodka (although this is a risky option, as you may then be expected to share the whole bottle with your hosts on the spot!). Another option is bringing small souvenirs from your hometown or home country.<br />
<br />
PRO-TIP: do not bring your 'gifts' in a container. In Mongolian society, it is considered rude and inhospitable to let someone bring something in a container and not fill it before they leave your home. Your hosts will feel obligated to fill the bowl or box in which you brought the 'gifts'. Although it seems informal, it's better to pile candy and gifts into the hands of your hosts. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigy-vNb_htSx5OY3nR_MYHnivPhbZ6suSwQvCPmZ38BkwqBf79XFyhAIyEUmw3POXHGAbP39uksjOve7xD_62CNk07KLRB1FqnksgyUKH0Z8SIe1vUY1-rbloKeD17fuQFkrFJtcwgGM8/s1600/IMG_2269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigy-vNb_htSx5OY3nR_MYHnivPhbZ6suSwQvCPmZ38BkwqBf79XFyhAIyEUmw3POXHGAbP39uksjOve7xD_62CNk07KLRB1FqnksgyUKH0Z8SIe1vUY1-rbloKeD17fuQFkrFJtcwgGM8/s400/IMG_2269.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Case in point: I brought a bowl of home-made brownies when I visited my friend's family during <i>Tsagaan Sar</i>, and I came home with this impressive haul of <i>aruul </i>and candies provided by his family so that I wouldn't leave the home with an empty bowl</td></tr>
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So much for the 23 basic points that I think every traveler, student, expat, and researcher should know about Mongolia before coming for the first time. But those 23 topics are the barest of bare minimums. We've only just dipped our toes into the vast ocean that is Mongolian culture, history, religion, language, cuisine, fashion, and life in the 21st century. Don't worry if you think I've overlooked something or glossed over a topic too quickly - this was just the 101 post. Leave a comment if there's a specific topic you'd like me to address or revisit in more depth in a future post. In the next post, "Mongolia Inside & Out 102", I'll focus on Mongolian culture in terms of important customs, beliefs, and concepts that you're likely to encounter during your time in the country. Until next time, enjoy the summer fruits wherever you are! I'll be searching out some wild strawberries (<i>guzeelzgene</i>) or black currants (<i>ukhriin nud</i>) the next time I'm at the market.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifzsdoPBQqb0dNmgz1Sp4yv4K-dqQS4hWF2_efDLx9TemkFK5H_eJ7V2WfPF-ctyxBqw1j4jGR5qnmP9Ylc2kdj6c2VfnUAdAOSvw8aXF7fpAtgQDmIRJsKJH5ELfzAISSA4fsrQcEEws/s1600/2013_Ukhriin+nuud.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifzsdoPBQqb0dNmgz1Sp4yv4K-dqQS4hWF2_efDLx9TemkFK5H_eJ7V2WfPF-ctyxBqw1j4jGR5qnmP9Ylc2kdj6c2VfnUAdAOSvw8aXF7fpAtgQDmIRJsKJH5ELfzAISSA4fsrQcEEws/s320/2013_Ukhriin+nuud.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2013: my "a bowl of <i>ukhriin nud </i>for ME!" face</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-18943208004528773572015-07-01T06:47:00.000-07:002015-07-02T18:58:16.569-07:0010-year anniversary: inaugurating the Mongolia Inside & Out seriesThis summer marks my 10-year anniversary with Mongolia.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpeInpxhaiFrfe3S7ZSnYvZqR8Z9Zn3Kn6K0IZ7bN-RMy3EeIqC2EuJQbzcOytwGbxHm15GabW9gIlyy863Om1x1xvMenQfY0GEfIlo0Zn0P6eFhsoZ2-Vnqls_HP4ZmG4G7NSd0dVm8s/s1600/Tamir+2005_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpeInpxhaiFrfe3S7ZSnYvZqR8Z9Zn3Kn6K0IZ7bN-RMy3EeIqC2EuJQbzcOytwGbxHm15GabW9gIlyy863Om1x1xvMenQfY0GEfIlo0Zn0P6eFhsoZ2-Vnqls_HP4ZmG4G7NSd0dVm8s/s640/Tamir+2005_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2005: looking out over the Tamir River in Arkhangai Province, I can see my future rolling inexorably towards me through the lavender sunset and rain clouds</td></tr>
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In the summer of 2005, having recently graduated and now looking for some adventure, I joined the Silk Road Foundation's expedition to the Xiongnu cemetery at Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu. Little did I know that those four weeks would put into motion a chain of events that would shape my professional trajectory and personal decisions for the next decade. In fact, the consequences of those beautiful summer days on the bluffs overlooking the Tamir River are still unfolding.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuplaCoBRMbXZj9Lv901EBAavEV3JoA5HB9CmkZb0HwgNQh690Uc20zd8YZl3wm_vvRD6D4S0ojxkT5v0vvEOeoEpyYzxCS2cC9Djy9F30Zwii7zk-RkLO0OQFd3q5N2hLi0VA6BifHAw/s1600/Tamir+2005_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuplaCoBRMbXZj9Lv901EBAavEV3JoA5HB9CmkZb0HwgNQh690Uc20zd8YZl3wm_vvRD6D4S0ojxkT5v0vvEOeoEpyYzxCS2cC9Djy9F30Zwii7zk-RkLO0OQFd3q5N2hLi0VA6BifHAw/s640/Tamir+2005_2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2005: who's that girl in the neon-pink shirt excavating a Xiongnu/Khunnu burial at Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu?</td></tr>
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This summer heralds another anniversary: exactly five years ago I organized and led my first field research expedition here in Mongolia.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuduX6DDFkVD6V9-v1JBBDHEGV-w1oAdBeE7zjVQ4NU1bZXFn8Q8QwPa2SwQLK4_urG_ZZs5oYG5LjLKUI3LkLkRJ5CRQFUpC1vNFmWg73wn2Yj5ukSNVK4YwBnpaSSGleGddWIIJkMRM/s1600/2010_KhirigsuurMogodnearBMA.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuduX6DDFkVD6V9-v1JBBDHEGV-w1oAdBeE7zjVQ4NU1bZXFn8Q8QwPa2SwQLK4_urG_ZZs5oYG5LjLKUI3LkLkRJ5CRQFUpC1vNFmWg73wn2Yj5ukSNVK4YwBnpaSSGleGddWIIJkMRM/s640/2010_KhirigsuurMogodnearBMA.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2010: back for more archaeology in the same neon-pink T-shirt (Bulgan Province)</td></tr>
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<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
It was a 3-week, informal reconnaissance survey with a tiny team, but it was still my first experience as a project manager and a team leader.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKITYyCMu4KhpSGCVBvM9p4rWIlVhkpVUKB9lLQAEzhplms78GcAHzKW_f0dx_mTV6Ha3YWZEO0-on2Gpny92QtCBadNnsfe_1ojqvhsJlk25Ar6su1d1XpJrspH_OoUndrz8dQko3lBo/s1600/2010_Survey1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKITYyCMu4KhpSGCVBvM9p4rWIlVhkpVUKB9lLQAEzhplms78GcAHzKW_f0dx_mTV6Ha3YWZEO0-on2Gpny92QtCBadNnsfe_1ojqvhsJlk25Ar6su1d1XpJrspH_OoUndrz8dQko3lBo/s640/2010_Survey1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2010: finding our way between Ulaanchuluut and the Khunnui River in Arkhangai Province</td></tr>
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In addition to 10 years of experience in Mongolia and 5 years of experience leading field teams here, I've now lived and worked in Mongolia for two full years.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOQG-HoaZWFfldeM3Vupo4Q6EnKY3rS3PrELHQGZGrrvaJ3eQFR-PQHsDOuwu5YF4HXgw0HxOa0vgsE82NVny7i-wZqbafjaDJ5nopJTVKR7FTDNvFbT6DQk0ar-Vea2Rnchirihwdmk/s1600/2014_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOQG-HoaZWFfldeM3Vupo4Q6EnKY3rS3PrELHQGZGrrvaJ3eQFR-PQHsDOuwu5YF4HXgw0HxOa0vgsE82NVny7i-wZqbafjaDJ5nopJTVKR7FTDNvFbT6DQk0ar-Vea2Rnchirihwdmk/s640/2014_2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2014: teaching field methods and introduction to Mongolia archaeology in the Khunnui valley, Arkhangai</td></tr>
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In all this time, through all the ups and downs, I've accumulated a lot of practical experience and knowledge that travelers, students, researchers, expats, and anyone coming to Mongolia for adventure might find interesting or useful.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDPj29PcYFQQBYuONHXk8ffMSbNNo16HVHQZEkfnB_Jn4qvXTpzEiQg1aW9X1yHYIb_yTlZrTZPdb29s5AR0hWeUOywNetu4hrUaOwUVtYPDT7hJ7xAFxYrfXJbkhclsnkfHbOvegMkTo/s1600/2007_MareMilking.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDPj29PcYFQQBYuONHXk8ffMSbNNo16HVHQZEkfnB_Jn4qvXTpzEiQg1aW9X1yHYIb_yTlZrTZPdb29s5AR0hWeUOywNetu4hrUaOwUVtYPDT7hJ7xAFxYrfXJbkhclsnkfHbOvegMkTo/s640/2007_MareMilking.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2007: milking a mare in Tuv Province - just one of many useful skills I picked up in rural Mongolia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8PHjwn6AptjDljZFUiuaRlXLcTSmZfTqYWALG9O1f-72tRtqCSaaOfbleuZWFelOEaM3Zo2CirJpumWZxS9-9Ka_PTD2kzDUHbrpPaFzHM_IJsPk9640_V8wav1L9VO0wHx3bPo3m6SU/s1600/2013_BMA4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8PHjwn6AptjDljZFUiuaRlXLcTSmZfTqYWALG9O1f-72tRtqCSaaOfbleuZWFelOEaM3Zo2CirJpumWZxS9-9Ka_PTD2kzDUHbrpPaFzHM_IJsPk9640_V8wav1L9VO0wHx3bPo3m6SU/s640/2013_BMA4.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2013: dressing for off-season fieldwork in Bulgan Province - how to stay warm with flair (i.e., advanced <i>chullo-</i>wearing skills)</td></tr>
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To mark my 10-year anniversary, I've decided to start a 'crash-course' series of posts on Mongolia, based on what I know and organized around a variety of topics. This Mongolia Inside & Out series will start at 101 and keep leveling up as I think of relevant topics or get feedback on subjects and issues that you, my audience, want covered. Leave a comment if there is a particular topic or area that you'd like me to address; if I feel that can, I will! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJ_-qkuio4Im0uzuAZ8mSLnrjkR5irvFIoOOwLsPkLlK217NiHKvQImq9XGm_H3fNuvt6MeizgNorN_B3mfYXFe08ON_aTH8F-sUUeYu3DvkwQMa9C_LY9VVOGlvLLJn-rB11szCk-Ko/s1600/2014_Nov2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJ_-qkuio4Im0uzuAZ8mSLnrjkR5irvFIoOOwLsPkLlK217NiHKvQImq9XGm_H3fNuvt6MeizgNorN_B3mfYXFe08ON_aTH8F-sUUeYu3DvkwQMa9C_LY9VVOGlvLLJn-rB11szCk-Ko/s640/2014_Nov2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2014: I now feel equipped to give advice on winter travel and all-season <i>ovoo </i>observance (Ugii Lake in November)</td></tr>
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Why "Mongolia Inside & Out"? My perspective on Mongolia is inherently dual. On the one hand, I am 'inside' Mongolia: I have made it my home for the last two years, I have gained 10 years of first-hand experience through my time in the country, and I have made Mongolia the focus of intense, long-term study and reflection. On the other hand, I am forever 'out' when it comes to Mongolia: I am a foreigner (<i>gadaad khun</i>), neither fluent in the language nor seamlessly integrated into the culture, and will thus always look somewhat from the outside in when it comes to Mongolia and all Mongolia-related phenomena.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPlsnAF4M_ea2VTjX6cNTp-loSKRSwb3RYhLE08nZarYELbAa8zCMoXu2gcNkduWkq2kVe6Ui5Y7v7N4aBNHB5NHwCDLWXgsR34a5GpHyxbBu-Hy8i0NG21jpLUj13cGhsI2UllzHcc3M/s1600/2014_Sainshand1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPlsnAF4M_ea2VTjX6cNTp-loSKRSwb3RYhLE08nZarYELbAa8zCMoXu2gcNkduWkq2kVe6Ui5Y7v7N4aBNHB5NHwCDLWXgsR34a5GpHyxbBu-Hy8i0NG21jpLUj13cGhsI2UllzHcc3M/s320/2014_Sainshand1.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside AND out of the birthing cave, as my sins are washed away and my spirit renewed in the hidden canyon of 108 caves of Danzanravjaa (Dornogovi Province)</td></tr>
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These posts will be a mix of the academic, the pragmatic, and the personal, full of suggestions and opinions rather than in-depth analysis. The dual "inside and out" perspective that I bring to Mongolia is an inherently subjective one, based on my experiences and informing my recommendations for others.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_BLGIFuwDQYWf6bxssO6a8dk_dH1i3BuUj1Ir4cUJyc5uGaBPaClWNN6crNT0Mm-9h_DoXjSpbL1Jd7z5zhgu4map7y-bNpiLlCyKTAsCVXPW-pDgHXvBFahsEhsY0dfBJtIMAOZAqw/s1600/2007_BGC1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL_BLGIFuwDQYWf6bxssO6a8dk_dH1i3BuUj1Ir4cUJyc5uGaBPaClWNN6crNT0Mm-9h_DoXjSpbL1Jd7z5zhgu4map7y-bNpiLlCyKTAsCVXPW-pDgHXvBFahsEhsY0dfBJtIMAOZAqw/s640/2007_BGC1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2007: I personally recommend traveling by horse whenever possible (Dundgov' Province). <br />
It's as simple as that!</td></tr>
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My aim with this course is to share what I know in the hopes that it will help future researchers, travelers, and students build a great experience during their time in Mongolia. Mongolia is a wonderful place that challenges even the most seasoned field veterans. I've struggled through a lot of setbacks, crises, and difficulties over the past 10 years; if my perspective can help you, at least some good came out of all the stress and strain.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEmJ4dM8esPDmdV25_724-dANAz8_PyNs8yrAWScCjas1sB76-VGr6ejSE4Q2ax0usnRixjzWcMowbD0CNig_uMM94CUnyYsIJ96FR7jXFKQ2gJBNUpw_WPIRapHOQUXmGOd5Aeupjlg/s1600/2013_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcEmJ4dM8esPDmdV25_724-dANAz8_PyNs8yrAWScCjas1sB76-VGr6ejSE4Q2ax0usnRixjzWcMowbD0CNig_uMM94CUnyYsIJ96FR7jXFKQ2gJBNUpw_WPIRapHOQUXmGOd5Aeupjlg/s400/2013_1.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2013: my advice? Don't worry about how your efforts look from the outside. Whether you're struggling with a major career upheaval, the logistics of a research project, or pumping <i>airag </i>near Manzushir monastery, hard work may look awful on the surface. But struggles and strain are all about what you take from the experience (especially when it's home-made <i>airag</i>)</td></tr>
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Stay tuned for the 101 post in the Mongolia Inside & Out series. The series will share my advice and perspective on everything related to making the most of your time in Mongolia: domestic transportation, cultural norms, Ulaanbaatar vs. the countryside (<i>khuduu</i>), <i>ger </i>etiquette and steppe hospitality, and where to get the best burger in Ulaanbaatar. So come along for the ride that's 10 years in the making! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcXlHGXkv5rPkKXE61r2JoxuQNg0C_2MRc2Pt2uPjDf4R19v1gDnYIWESymryd94PUC6iSi1qQMFeQYVYEZE7mbAqktGAXCwJKSdXoHXqFn2h0DSzdMv7cNdsSphJOQqw3cYAhnt3cQEA/s1600/2007_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcXlHGXkv5rPkKXE61r2JoxuQNg0C_2MRc2Pt2uPjDf4R19v1gDnYIWESymryd94PUC6iSi1qQMFeQYVYEZE7mbAqktGAXCwJKSdXoHXqFn2h0DSzdMv7cNdsSphJOQqw3cYAhnt3cQEA/s640/2007_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2007: plenty of horses (and opinions!) to go around in Tuv Province</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-63477072310071673122015-06-28T05:54:00.002-07:002015-07-02T18:59:54.865-07:00On copperIn a time of major mining operations and their huge impact on the country's economic situation and political climate, it is unsurprising that metals mean a lot to modern Mongolia. <br />
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Copper, despite being less flashy than gold and less notorious than uranium, historically makes up a significant component of Mongolia's mining operations. The Erdenet Mining Company began extracting copper in the 1970s in Orkhon Province. The second largest city in Mongolia - Erdenet - was founded by the company as a result of the large-scale copper-mining industry. <br />
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The Oyu Tolgoi (OT) mine in Umnugovi Province, perhaps the defining economic undertaking of the 21st century in Mongolia, primarily produces copper. In 2015, it is impossible to overstate the significance of Oyu Tolgoi to Mongolian society. Since 2001, the rocky relationship between the various Mongolian governments and international mining groups that share stakes in the mine has influenced the national economy, Mongolia's international reputation as a free and law-abiding society (I am alluding to the recent case of foreign mining executives held in Mongolia in a tax-evasion case. Three men were forbidden from leaving Mongolia for several years, awaiting a trial where eventually they would be convicted and sentenced to 5 years in Mongolian prison. However, shortly after the trial all three were pardoned by President Elbegdorj, following sharp criticism from the international business and human rights communities), the environment, and domestic development as a function of international investment and involvement.<br />
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Aside from the macro-scale significance of copper as a commodity, this metal is very much a part of Mongolian daily life. Copper (<i>zes</i>) is ubiquitous in traditional households and jewelry. The two most commons forms are the bowl (<i>ayag</i>) and the bracelet (<i>buguivch</i>).<br />
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As I mentioned in the <i>Tsagaan Sar</i> 2014 post, <i>Badamkhatan egch</i>, who hosted me on <i>Shinii gurvan udur </i>2014, presented me with this gorgeous copper bowl:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwiOMcJ5pnbg2RPvDemgwni8bKFDWRo5jgVsF0ghWOafGciFbfJj5NWOm7ntJpKoAZA6HQNvbSeleXxOgj0JHrfE8tQpIeDh1Cz6Z6wOMVqP5GGIs95R2DGg0KUXR_mK8mqeWsIZodlpk/s1600/IMG_2265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwiOMcJ5pnbg2RPvDemgwni8bKFDWRo5jgVsF0ghWOafGciFbfJj5NWOm7ntJpKoAZA6HQNvbSeleXxOgj0JHrfE8tQpIeDh1Cz6Z6wOMVqP5GGIs95R2DGg0KUXR_mK8mqeWsIZodlpk/s1600/IMG_2265.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A copper bowl, or <i>zesnii ayag </i></td></tr>
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Copper bowls are common items in Mongolian homes. I've seen them both in the capital and in the countryside.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TPbJbyVve6JyUaxmCUH58idTzjprsSMrsvbJwErkid6K9_TJcjguM3Xfdvih5euGgZf88IHmfORx4RMOwhu55J-1vuxpvGAZyPBoLg0OTr3KC28GxojAzw1vb5EsOoOiJQXTe_4V4dw/s1600/IMG_2266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TPbJbyVve6JyUaxmCUH58idTzjprsSMrsvbJwErkid6K9_TJcjguM3Xfdvih5euGgZf88IHmfORx4RMOwhu55J-1vuxpvGAZyPBoLg0OTr3KC28GxojAzw1vb5EsOoOiJQXTe_4V4dw/s1600/IMG_2266.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter 2014: like a copper mirror</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">In addition to giving me the copper bowl, <i>Badamkhatan egch </i>filled it with <i>ezgii</i>, a home-made cooked dairy product that's quite delicious.</span></span></td></tr>
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<a name='more'></a><br /><br />
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In addition to being beautiful, copper is considered to have healing and diagnostic properties. The best way to receive the health benefits of a copper bowl is to fill it with water each night before bed and drink the water first thing the following morning. This is a common practice in Mongolia today, although some wealthier people use a silver bowl instead or in addition to a copper bowl. Silver is thought to be even better for these purposes than copper, as silver has a long tradition in Mongolian history and folklore as a poison detector used by kings and royalty. Very ornate cups have semi-precious stones, such as turquoise and coral, inset into their sides along with engravings.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbmqn9y-8YRUnukNH8TWUNdf7bFaetMuJaCUFDkB3C3MEuxjZs9e_scEZpPMzX5aOjbg-cn3k9SPukLUFh-o_IKKXfC-3H_sTnjIUIASktWulKox8SsHVgOsyI9ivWx79PQ3KDrfC7EC4/s1600/IMG_2263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbmqn9y-8YRUnukNH8TWUNdf7bFaetMuJaCUFDkB3C3MEuxjZs9e_scEZpPMzX5aOjbg-cn3k9SPukLUFh-o_IKKXfC-3H_sTnjIUIASktWulKox8SsHVgOsyI9ivWx79PQ3KDrfC7EC4/s1600/IMG_2263.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Copper bracelet, or <i>zesnii buguivch</i></td></tr>
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Mongolians also wear copper to capitalize on both its aesthetic and diagnostic properties. In Ulaanbaatar and the Mongolian countryside, I regularly see people of all ages and walks of life wearing a copper bracelet. Most often the bracelet will be a simple band, although bracelets do come in a variety of designs and forms. Mine is a lovely engraved piece given to me during <i>Tsagaan Sar</i> 2014 by <i>Tsermaa bagsh</i>, my Mongolian language teacher (<i>bagsh </i>means "teacher" or "professor").<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55_BDIFOvVmpwqq-D2DBLP3Xi9fRqzi7acT7jq8h_jxobUz-QCczxRuzu7i7SiCgC_mqibHxgUmYdiaeYXThAJUsHAZSOA_lMmCOk0BO26D46SQ292q7tiOOMXV0YENo3VVlOF_IdHnw/s1600/IMG_2279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55_BDIFOvVmpwqq-D2DBLP3Xi9fRqzi7acT7jq8h_jxobUz-QCczxRuzu7i7SiCgC_mqibHxgUmYdiaeYXThAJUsHAZSOA_lMmCOk0BO26D46SQ292q7tiOOMXV0YENo3VVlOF_IdHnw/s1600/IMG_2279.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter 2014: after only a few days, my skin had already turned green in a response to the copper</td></tr>
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Copper is believed to pull the toxins out of the body through your skin. Based on the properties of copper, these bracelets serve as a kind of 'illness detector': if you're unwell, your skin will turn green where the metal rests. Many times I have had people comment on my general health based on the faint blue-green stain around my left wrist.<br />
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Now, 18 months after I received the copper bowl and the copper bracelet, see whether either has changed through usage or the passage of time:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6bZpODVPIbZq_LcOKBV-BNSZCUvIlNsOea_o_Q60je5fvbq7MaGK4H5l_RWkxQrc2phGAyrcqRn3i-vHqmL72hPw0DOuPpQkBW9vOZ8F8GTiMaqISp54308QKScKUDL7cQmg_jXofkqk/s1600/Zesnii+buguivch.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6bZpODVPIbZq_LcOKBV-BNSZCUvIlNsOea_o_Q60je5fvbq7MaGK4H5l_RWkxQrc2phGAyrcqRn3i-vHqmL72hPw0DOuPpQkBW9vOZ8F8GTiMaqISp54308QKScKUDL7cQmg_jXofkqk/s640/Zesnii+buguivch.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summer 2015: 18 months of constant wear</td></tr>
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<br />
Because I wear the bracelet constantly, taking it off only to bathe, the copper gets naturally polished against my skin. The biggest difference I notice is that the indented portions of the copper that make up the little floral pattern have darkened, making the pattern more visible. Today the blue-green stain left by the copper is fairly faint, both in the picture and in real life. Some days it is hardly present; other days it's a giant blue-green smear running down my forearm.<br />
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Now for the copper bowl:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYZy_hUwBbmddCqWkjtCpdLVYDiShCa-QZZ8iK98YllEX4mBZ6ABtcDYZ8V_s6aAFrKdNrazLJ8QAl0NVMXOf9VoCO1OaJVJ0YMBGKgiHJZkETaKIsvymOsT_H9kj1ztwKZ1VQhGm6I3k/s1600/Zesnii+ayga+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYZy_hUwBbmddCqWkjtCpdLVYDiShCa-QZZ8iK98YllEX4mBZ6ABtcDYZ8V_s6aAFrKdNrazLJ8QAl0NVMXOf9VoCO1OaJVJ0YMBGKgiHJZkETaKIsvymOsT_H9kj1ztwKZ1VQhGm6I3k/s640/Zesnii+ayga+1.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">18 months later: notably less shiny</td></tr>
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Although originally I used my copper bowl to drink water each morning in the few months following <i>Tsagaan Sar </i>2014, I gave up the practice after I stopped regularly seeing a <i>bariach </i>(traditional healer). These days I use it to store jewelry and hair ties on my dressing table.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8b3wmfhu90Ynn3wO37cXvsb1YE_EsPcAXXQsTRp5AzE-ShF1SxqdHzOmnr5B65DuTyatCexHxAZ60NvyY68DDc46g1L7GAUoGCaNz1gBWBcdEI4hNE_Rf3gEd8bbosdy9f8GzYDjwgCk/s1600/Zesnii+ayga+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8b3wmfhu90Ynn3wO37cXvsb1YE_EsPcAXXQsTRp5AzE-ShF1SxqdHzOmnr5B65DuTyatCexHxAZ60NvyY68DDc46g1L7GAUoGCaNz1gBWBcdEI4hNE_Rf3gEd8bbosdy9f8GzYDjwgCk/s640/Zesnii+ayga+2.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the bowl: a little bit of oxidation</td></tr>
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Copper is not difficult to clean: a salt-and-vinegar scrub will bring the shine back in a few minutes. However, I'm rather enjoying the aged aesthetic that time has wrought; I might not get around to polishing up the bowl for ages.<br />
<br />
In a traditional <i>ger </i>in the Mongolian countryside, one might see a number of other vessels made of copper. Copper vessels are prized and used throughout culinary traditions to achieve different aims, including maintaining a constant temperature throughout a heated surface. Certainly most Mongolians do not cook or prepare meals in copper vessels today, but you're quite likely to see a <i>zesnii ayag </i>if you spend time in a Mongolian household.<br />
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In future I'd like to do a post on precious and semi-precious stones in Mongolian folk medicine and traditional healing. Although copper is arguably the most interesting mineral due to its significance to the current globalized economy and traditional social practices, the many uses and meanings of stones and minerals in Mongolian material culture are fascinating.<br />
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On a more personal note, I never thought I'd become so fond of copper. In America, copper is mostly pennies, electrical wiring, and crusty blue statues in the park. I specifically recall declaring that copper jewelry was garish and clunky when I was a teenager. Now I find the metal's warm glow so appealing that I don't feel myself without my little copper bracelet on my wrist. Here's to copper - the true Mongolian metal!<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-5549194838895173222015-06-24T04:39:00.001-07:002015-06-24T04:39:38.852-07:00Calling all summer students and adventurers!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiepMRpGJSeg-RVwEeP9c9YFdFQOW4laKexgL-7dYju72MC8hwyPq6eErzYVjiQEo1yo4xZpcM3h5AZBTlXsG0bYmJUDvcwVj4EPUrc3lar2K67vgM2S9MiFByLh7e48YniIDgZAUpTs-U/s1600/Khentii1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiepMRpGJSeg-RVwEeP9c9YFdFQOW4laKexgL-7dYju72MC8hwyPq6eErzYVjiQEo1yo4xZpcM3h5AZBTlXsG0bYmJUDvcwVj4EPUrc3lar2K67vgM2S9MiFByLh7e48YniIDgZAUpTs-U/s640/Khentii1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Ovoo </i>worship site with <i>khadag</i> (photo: E. Platts, 2014)</td></tr>
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This summer the Center for the Study of Eurasian Nomads (CSEN) is offering two educational field programs in Mongolia: the Southern Bulgan Province program and the Ar Janchivlan Valley & Khentii Province program. While the application deadline for the Southern Bulgan Province program has already passed, the Ar Janchivlan Valley & Khentii Province program is accepting applications until July 15th!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPIoyWjXKgZC9y9WjbOy27g1MHxHsghAtpbNO33a9HZ7iA2Qxz7ftWwsCkLFcjNyn4C8UC_1rcYu_WSA6QtYC5QHUmPTTj80I6X1v1y2oFk0MtOjJYmp4bZnUs8y9SpKLAcjFwH_WLQfQ/s1600/Khentii2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPIoyWjXKgZC9y9WjbOy27g1MHxHsghAtpbNO33a9HZ7iA2Qxz7ftWwsCkLFcjNyn4C8UC_1rcYu_WSA6QtYC5QHUmPTTj80I6X1v1y2oFk0MtOjJYmp4bZnUs8y9SpKLAcjFwH_WLQfQ/s640/Khentii2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Surveying a Bronze-Age <i>khirigsuur </i>complex
en route to Baldan Bereeven monastery,<br />
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Khentii Province <o:p></o:p>(photo: E. Platts, 2014)</div>
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The program is designed for students, enthusiasts, and adventurers who want a substantive introduction to Mongolia through field experiences and educational content (focused primarily on archaeology but including ethnography, religion, history, and a bit of Mongolian language) over a 10-day period.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvfgn4LDPU8UwtkiMvsWp8yYgwaDevQQcfhUxJWT66H1U2-B0b0YvXlM0YUijZnbQh4zrQwBJsJsSuMXHLFY-Z7vQ0ls6y3SS_VuKAtDj96cDjrzw75sRtIJsiero_45DmcQ8a-gNBhy0/s1600/mng_+028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvfgn4LDPU8UwtkiMvsWp8yYgwaDevQQcfhUxJWT66H1U2-B0b0YvXlM0YUijZnbQh4zrQwBJsJsSuMXHLFY-Z7vQ0ls6y3SS_VuKAtDj96cDjrzw75sRtIJsiero_45DmcQ8a-gNBhy0/s400/mng_+028.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bronze-Age burial on the high slopes of the sacred peak, Bayan Tsogt (Ar Janchivlan Valley, Tuv Province) (photo: E. Hite 2015)</td></tr>
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My Mongolian collaborator, Vanchigdash (Mongolian University of Science and Technology), and I will serve as field instructors, including participants as we conduct a bit of dissertation fieldwork in Ar Janchivlan Valley and leading our team through field research and educational settings in Khentii Province.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2l-Y54UZy7VGrsE7s2J5oRlcCawPtkfBzHMCLfyziNzTbJOifaSyBCpdFZZt2YNaqNvkyyvf0Q5iNaOF1MlupLvatkU_vq21AC_oWLKYnwDAZNg95GhgNVjPY-8FcQePaRoPyeWjULlA/s1600/Khentii5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2l-Y54UZy7VGrsE7s2J5oRlcCawPtkfBzHMCLfyziNzTbJOifaSyBCpdFZZt2YNaqNvkyyvf0Q5iNaOF1MlupLvatkU_vq21AC_oWLKYnwDAZNg95GhgNVjPY-8FcQePaRoPyeWjULlA/s400/Khentii5.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Tibetan inscription at the Rashaan Khad site in Khentii Province (photo: E. Platts, 2014)</span></td></tr>
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As a real field team, we'll be living in rough conditions, traveling on bumpy back-country roads, and taking every opportunity to explore new sites, meet local people, and engage in once-in-a-lifetime experiences.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqnoqsqo3ZB1qzC6oz65_pp9fbRmI2ZS7508h2aPx_8oZlV6EIhBkSQa-PiRzzQrrOmPHoijMIyQC3Ez-45mmCCCHXQ1PCS8F-DvbfrTGsUM9J-Ta3MRGvEOzAvfr277ZnHMNYzHm5zFw/s1600/Khentii_New.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqnoqsqo3ZB1qzC6oz65_pp9fbRmI2ZS7508h2aPx_8oZlV6EIhBkSQa-PiRzzQrrOmPHoijMIyQC3Ez-45mmCCCHXQ1PCS8F-DvbfrTGsUM9J-Ta3MRGvEOzAvfr277ZnHMNYzHm5zFw/s400/Khentii_New.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fun and games near the Bayan River, Khentii Province (photo: E. Platts 2014)</td></tr>
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CSEN welcomes applicants of all ages and backgrounds, although those under 18 must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian, and prizes participants with willing spirits and open hearts above those with prior archaeological or field expedition experience. The program is capped at 8 participants (not including staff and field instructors) to keep our team size manageable, our foot-print small, and our encounters friendly and personal.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF6QBroIDKKRzwJNev0zHE6L5dvHrxUXXpGbjw5TiiW-yta0j07pE1LfN8VbIfiaEXXkBCYu258uMR6lsGSQErC6GBybmYrN-H1IekNhjb1mtB02eP5sWR-FRDS-Hw7mdDsUEiyRBf_4Y/s1600/Khentii4.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF6QBroIDKKRzwJNev0zHE6L5dvHrxUXXpGbjw5TiiW-yta0j07pE1LfN8VbIfiaEXXkBCYu258uMR6lsGSQErC6GBybmYrN-H1IekNhjb1mtB02eP5sWR-FRDS-Hw7mdDsUEiyRBf_4Y/s400/Khentii4.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Program map with key sites listed</td></tr>
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You can find more information about the Ar Janchivlan Valley & Khentii Province program, including the application form and participant handbook, at the following sites:<br />
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<u>The CSEN webpage: </u><br />
http://csen.org/Ar%20Janchivian%20Valley%20&%20Khentil%20Province/ArJanchivianValley&KhentilProvincendex.html<br />
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<u>The program listing on the Archaeological Institute of America's Archaeological Fieldwork Online Bulletin:</u><br />
http://www.archaeological.org/fieldwork/afob/19191<br />
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<u>The CSEN Facebook page: </u>https://www.facebook.com/centerforthestudyofeurasiannomads?fref=nf<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfC8n8uSMVMLhG3e0GrvmE1fzd-BbkAL7O2VW5r7F3VxpYHGc7uCraC2c_e9wGFVr5h1oS-8xi9m8IN6hDQymSR5NYlMqoyRlSYQdQ_CI-DGC56d-hNKPh75xdDUPev09pZMM_riSPWF0/s1600/mng_+046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfC8n8uSMVMLhG3e0GrvmE1fzd-BbkAL7O2VW5r7F3VxpYHGc7uCraC2c_e9wGFVr5h1oS-8xi9m8IN6hDQymSR5NYlMqoyRlSYQdQ_CI-DGC56d-hNKPh75xdDUPev09pZMM_riSPWF0/s640/mng_+046.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vanchigdash surveys archaeological features in Ar Janchivlan Valley in early May (photo: E. Hite 2015)</td></tr>
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Spread the word to friends, colleagues, and family who might want to get outside of their comfort zones this summer through an adventurous educational expedition. We look forward to receiving your application and any questions at csen.field.programs@gmail.com !<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit6ouPLYfbTKiSHg85P2849eOieI-ig6vsSWzrSTri-r4U2c8OycEE_H5eiUH77YoAV52D1nfPZYo3SVSklf7uA92omX85L1BFaaqjd2fINCfOnPVtpC0NDZDXgDGG_DNucRktnmmpH8w/s1600/Khentii7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit6ouPLYfbTKiSHg85P2849eOieI-ig6vsSWzrSTri-r4U2c8OycEE_H5eiUH77YoAV52D1nfPZYo3SVSklf7uA92omX85L1BFaaqjd2fINCfOnPVtpC0NDZDXgDGG_DNucRktnmmpH8w/s640/Khentii7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset in late summer along the Khurkh River (photo: E. Platts, 2014)</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-44268331496065289262015-06-23T19:32:00.000-07:002015-07-02T18:59:18.726-07:00Sprint from September to springA few choice moments from my time in Mongolia between the end of summer 2014 and springtime:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Lovely bouquet from two of my students celebrating the end of summer</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cFFTwU86b7WtCqU2rbx6HoXGHJSEQ3iIf3tra_dCSsFjxj2-PBSiIBwUqE88rs55k8WG-Mk1beRF1_1fEj8Ye9V7X3Ue8pSDTw3Hw8KfPim7xPb_4ZRplgXe-32VXUzib87E_wYxnFg/s1600/Sept+28+2014+-+1st+snow+in+UB.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cFFTwU86b7WtCqU2rbx6HoXGHJSEQ3iIf3tra_dCSsFjxj2-PBSiIBwUqE88rs55k8WG-Mk1beRF1_1fEj8Ye9V7X3Ue8pSDTw3Hw8KfPim7xPb_4ZRplgXe-32VXUzib87E_wYxnFg/s640/Sept+28+2014+-+1st+snow+in+UB.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">First snow of the season in Ulaanbaatar: September 28th, 2014 :/</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8x8JFTKiCKMXHhB0HuyAE4EW4zb-3Oyw2BXr5Yq-or4c_w5RwetwdvAmO_UJLP68V3R_0ftUl-iyaeE3W4WcfXPn6x4RtT_tlTK5JjVYERjGGwLrpml4AeK_SpVd4XSXkGb-d0U4COTg/s1600/2015+onii+anh+nar+mandah+-+Bagahangai+duureg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8x8JFTKiCKMXHhB0HuyAE4EW4zb-3Oyw2BXr5Yq-or4c_w5RwetwdvAmO_UJLP68V3R_0ftUl-iyaeE3W4WcfXPn6x4RtT_tlTK5JjVYERjGGwLrpml4AeK_SpVd4XSXkGb-d0U4COTg/s640/2015+onii+anh+nar+mandah+-+Bagahangai+duureg.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bonfire and first sunrise of the new year in Bayankhangai</td></tr>
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A major highlight of the winter was my dog-sledding trip in Terelj. We raced along the frozen river pulled by eager, cuddly huskies, took a quick spin on a horse sleigh, rode horseback through snow drifts, and climbed through the winter forests over the rocky hills in one eventful day. Unfortunately, I forgot my camera. Luckily for me, Emily S. had her camera on hand the entire time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3w6E5lDPyasfjlOAsu0P9hOrfsm8RjVWUmPm5B_c5pbQJF4jfE4fOACq9Zs4zoW-qhyphenhyphenmLp-rvRrM-Rd7rZmcog4OUW1SACmrL79V9HUJVzoCMrfgFIPiKNgu92lOhpBfPgRLX6HWTHLs/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3w6E5lDPyasfjlOAsu0P9hOrfsm8RjVWUmPm5B_c5pbQJF4jfE4fOACq9Zs4zoW-qhyphenhyphenmLp-rvRrM-Rd7rZmcog4OUW1SACmrL79V9HUJVzoCMrfgFIPiKNgu92lOhpBfPgRLX6HWTHLs/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+003.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our dogs getting hitched to the sleds: almost ready for some racing over the frozen river!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZOTRMDZRnDD0LDf45YLFQkcOhyTs0HpHBkO4r8Rh0w6jaMd-VdKeBB5HrOIXdoBaKoV1gKmCh0xDuk2VtHAn6X3Nbgd__NUGrOmIJnMaV24OsAOoiYe2AD4aEpDYVkzVYQWRsPH1V38s/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZOTRMDZRnDD0LDf45YLFQkcOhyTs0HpHBkO4r8Rh0w6jaMd-VdKeBB5HrOIXdoBaKoV1gKmCh0xDuk2VtHAn6X3Nbgd__NUGrOmIJnMaV24OsAOoiYe2AD4aEpDYVkzVYQWRsPH1V38s/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+006.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eyes on the prize: almost ready to make that river run!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_GfsimcWShvsGPQCnusBKrmhgNt8RFr-b2HdS7iIZjOOr1u_6cIGvn8D0NoMindP6BcvPcpCMjc2j3Ig8bponGhnmJMbXlNyfhNqJ4f_NvuFf5XYJMFb3s4iJrQhcYLdZR1blyfNqK0/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK_GfsimcWShvsGPQCnusBKrmhgNt8RFr-b2HdS7iIZjOOr1u_6cIGvn8D0NoMindP6BcvPcpCMjc2j3Ig8bponGhnmJMbXlNyfhNqJ4f_NvuFf5XYJMFb3s4iJrQhcYLdZR1blyfNqK0/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+007.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teams and their sleds</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzfXTZrkq5tKwb6wsQFa3qd2GDrFdhdJcJAgPwpD_gy2Kh0PyjeAoZFkIr-DErJSdxtFkFoR39v5yl00mCK067fqCzHeSupPP16q-uDhdCkjGose_tGsMRLPQJrC90wrr_AyhpL9Tp-fI/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzfXTZrkq5tKwb6wsQFa3qd2GDrFdhdJcJAgPwpD_gy2Kh0PyjeAoZFkIr-DErJSdxtFkFoR39v5yl00mCK067fqCzHeSupPP16q-uDhdCkjGose_tGsMRLPQJrC90wrr_AyhpL9Tp-fI/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+011.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Are you ready yet?!?"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvTPNGZdgaAk3v3HIqZxB_yqqftWiOTPQ6ej6zZNSGExR_psv8slRUZQ9eGvarNM4jXva9P5uAX5P1VE3Pv3VKvzmU99JMwWUIavSp-WYCa1FxpAD_MmSeNhiRUNctgZUbzakPnJ5u8mM/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvTPNGZdgaAk3v3HIqZxB_yqqftWiOTPQ6ej6zZNSGExR_psv8slRUZQ9eGvarNM4jXva9P5uAX5P1VE3Pv3VKvzmU99JMwWUIavSp-WYCa1FxpAD_MmSeNhiRUNctgZUbzakPnJ5u8mM/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+012.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And we're off!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD0yPl_Ifvm_QeXo-gf2q1awJ2L9IrFqPmX0USzlRt0h1DhkNJ06l-8Oh-ns-RmCtBNjJUXFlKdBDkaYNPQ6Ri_1k0zSNkU8H3Sor3qWV6ifWmumifcLK5G3McUoueNBuwPR4bGeYiu9w/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD0yPl_Ifvm_QeXo-gf2q1awJ2L9IrFqPmX0USzlRt0h1DhkNJ06l-8Oh-ns-RmCtBNjJUXFlKdBDkaYNPQ6Ri_1k0zSNkU8H3Sor3qWV6ifWmumifcLK5G3McUoueNBuwPR4bGeYiu9w/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+013.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neck and neck!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJ8EUU_A1jcGzer3pgMqxCLDb-o-KXNmyzGZd5hn1hcz2LLSICGsX19KeSX01WojJuSKRWpHga82bV2WaC89sOkBcraRpXFXfoolK8BQmIxgoxnnt6ptBjpKiC9Nb0hRsyj1DSqX69WY/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJ8EUU_A1jcGzer3pgMqxCLDb-o-KXNmyzGZd5hn1hcz2LLSICGsX19KeSX01WojJuSKRWpHga82bV2WaC89sOkBcraRpXFXfoolK8BQmIxgoxnnt6ptBjpKiC9Nb0hRsyj1DSqX69WY/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+014.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulling ahead in the race</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXJmvuKhLKKSSLbYRkzCrMIO7zYGHQNV76QNQRK0uzGiKOnpt7v_Zo_2ktTeXNPHJFJD6hVqxxT-JXNcH4m2qzezAo4T0xiSZI_8z9hNEu1FvR5xzGB5S5dY_dcD6UWP3gwXIZ9k3K-M/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXJmvuKhLKKSSLbYRkzCrMIO7zYGHQNV76QNQRK0uzGiKOnpt7v_Zo_2ktTeXNPHJFJD6hVqxxT-JXNcH4m2qzezAo4T0xiSZI_8z9hNEu1FvR5xzGB5S5dY_dcD6UWP3gwXIZ9k3K-M/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+017.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moments before a tangle: these friendly dogs sometimes forget that they're racing and decide they'd like to pile on their buddies on another team</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMTI_HxffwTfIb4ebcd_MI5E7a7pYgvtu4HmPKcK6wj9nAMvVaf980QDpDSqVImoC_rv0lyrab6YbsQewC7D_K6mfGf8vG5J2Et569QWWfQCUpr21o26pGuqTyPlM_EVG3Equeiz41sd0/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMTI_HxffwTfIb4ebcd_MI5E7a7pYgvtu4HmPKcK6wj9nAMvVaf980QDpDSqVImoC_rv0lyrab6YbsQewC7D_K6mfGf8vG5J2Et569QWWfQCUpr21o26pGuqTyPlM_EVG3Equeiz41sd0/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+024.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pit stop to sort ourselves out (i.e., untangle the lines)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ghAcrS5ahtgj67ZsmKF7n95ctNzwRFtigl2ekj5fPNT8CO5yLwmIDioQurk_0CMxKvS9M_lUlsMnTB9WznPbz4mWBPGTAw-EFCXZg6qXslV4Gq7mo6UYllNgWX3KubWLVPjB2YJoiKU/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2ghAcrS5ahtgj67ZsmKF7n95ctNzwRFtigl2ekj5fPNT8CO5yLwmIDioQurk_0CMxKvS9M_lUlsMnTB9WznPbz4mWBPGTAw-EFCXZg6qXslV4Gq7mo6UYllNgWX3KubWLVPjB2YJoiKU/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+025.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rounding the bend on the homestretch</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtki0GRsjpLGuE65InxyTZFbiVRLiSPfeQWa71khuPJodCzzpcvmv9gOnBBeU-D-8cCtZ2GKNXTxyig7OUe9mJmc0-GyW5JP_y0B_DNbzhn-wejWL4Bzeu-2W7r3VY2XkYQDdoyia-kls/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtki0GRsjpLGuE65InxyTZFbiVRLiSPfeQWa71khuPJodCzzpcvmv9gOnBBeU-D-8cCtZ2GKNXTxyig7OUe9mJmc0-GyW5JP_y0B_DNbzhn-wejWL4Bzeu-2W7r3VY2XkYQDdoyia-kls/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+026.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was *very* nervous about steering the sled; I'm a poor skier and even poorer skater. It worked out pretty well, once I got the hang of the brakes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjw-FhfThSUjW-0BjJsFGPF7Y3HiAkLE5SYXtarvP9LKbRJ-XOzU5S6BFcPt1mGjdtUEQ8a8GHEJtAtkMjutaijtLeWDPleLkne4uYjfaDLv6YAS7B8qeSL2ZH56E_h_k81Vge1jKAX9k/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjw-FhfThSUjW-0BjJsFGPF7Y3HiAkLE5SYXtarvP9LKbRJ-XOzU5S6BFcPt1mGjdtUEQ8a8GHEJtAtkMjutaijtLeWDPleLkne4uYjfaDLv6YAS7B8qeSL2ZH56E_h_k81Vge1jKAX9k/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+028.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fancy photo for a fancy boy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAzFiMtJzjywOmPdWvj7SehNO1LYvRcCGjMrkA-nBg57boDyzJVFgxjxnHW4N7jyA2LWqRlH59yw_itHFmoRD8VifqMQIkBgc_0lxgK1H-QRnGHFyZUaZY2toAj-JV64KGDYuwBkV-d6g/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAzFiMtJzjywOmPdWvj7SehNO1LYvRcCGjMrkA-nBg57boDyzJVFgxjxnHW4N7jyA2LWqRlH59yw_itHFmoRD8VifqMQIkBgc_0lxgK1H-QRnGHFyZUaZY2toAj-JV64KGDYuwBkV-d6g/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+031.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Surprise kisses from a wiggly puppy!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj4zMCSztch5adH386tFIC-s-_7IKTqgwtGsAjrBsXCM4r3VgVX6q5-NrCHBkxidpeymxHaCIZVa8OFKV1KXwCpjY5b6I-luXwIrIeD2VWLRawI9XhWzChIl1Df48n2SgaXRj84VsmgTU/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj4zMCSztch5adH386tFIC-s-_7IKTqgwtGsAjrBsXCM4r3VgVX6q5-NrCHBkxidpeymxHaCIZVa8OFKV1KXwCpjY5b6I-luXwIrIeD2VWLRawI9XhWzChIl1Df48n2SgaXRj84VsmgTU/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+009.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tsogoo, his biggest horse, and his sleigh make a surprise appearance on the river</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiENU8eA8-J2e6iuBYu2dVt71dMDvz9BVQFNWcxCO8OvRxGCkh13m2m4Dv2OUAduoE6R2qiQHuWRlI1y0TAFGmPR559V0zfa49eJbukl1o7RPKesJLWcoRTR7LxMs9PO6muCZw0jAIhL-I/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiENU8eA8-J2e6iuBYu2dVt71dMDvz9BVQFNWcxCO8OvRxGCkh13m2m4Dv2OUAduoE6R2qiQHuWRlI1y0TAFGmPR559V0zfa49eJbukl1o7RPKesJLWcoRTR7LxMs9PO6muCZw0jAIhL-I/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+040.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding into the little village of Terelj on fuzzy winter horses</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRpb2CGwhOELtsAHep3udaFZRV-DAKH1Hn-p1BVqQIoTB5HkLgxeItGNspAJ7YQiSMQdoOyuitR12Vc21VPhq5Y4oJ6Wsjc1P_vuWq63magkJ-IfnpRGu-AQJJ5aYKZiPdrW1MhM8zkvw/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRpb2CGwhOELtsAHep3udaFZRV-DAKH1Hn-p1BVqQIoTB5HkLgxeItGNspAJ7YQiSMQdoOyuitR12Vc21VPhq5Y4oJ6Wsjc1P_vuWq63magkJ-IfnpRGu-AQJJ5aYKZiPdrW1MhM8zkvw/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+048.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Album cover/Hiking pose</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqGmtXKuETxtgMh5pVb_cmEN3rQhI-sx0uT2g3tX0ul0G3_HCotLUeVQFyZbsogsXAhr1ExKTE37HZ7sPmj2EGK3rJMVgtaymisUYIhVmQKgrRLYfi74-aOwVAA_Fs1D0jN-fIlhQmpSM/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqGmtXKuETxtgMh5pVb_cmEN3rQhI-sx0uT2g3tX0ul0G3_HCotLUeVQFyZbsogsXAhr1ExKTE37HZ7sPmj2EGK3rJMVgtaymisUYIhVmQKgrRLYfi74-aOwVAA_Fs1D0jN-fIlhQmpSM/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+057.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">January in Terelj</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUtuDTf9npu1DxC2UZP3MCNFKi4Fkr9ht1ia9FyiUkHb6jlcSdUEqLufMDTB1XsnkKMRlZ-jKtyz-ySxj__VyuadPjFeVHHni_Y_pvX41WgQKlOXw1y6jMypCqoxgfqL5QkeRCyT6uXtQ/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUtuDTf9npu1DxC2UZP3MCNFKi4Fkr9ht1ia9FyiUkHb6jlcSdUEqLufMDTB1XsnkKMRlZ-jKtyz-ySxj__VyuadPjFeVHHni_Y_pvX41WgQKlOXw1y6jMypCqoxgfqL5QkeRCyT6uXtQ/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+061.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snow on the slopes</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioKkG4aaxTOJ2TnZfUeIzc9cgsrkzyYtOmPDn7b9hwTs4ZxmY0RXuixcQlr7y3CcxigGcGHz68J68Ky0TbZcyHMAjxLS1tkYNa6Ahp9S7Sae4VsC8W_BEs2okQbrZH9axqOLmnGVimfKo/s1600/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioKkG4aaxTOJ2TnZfUeIzc9cgsrkzyYtOmPDn7b9hwTs4ZxmY0RXuixcQlr7y3CcxigGcGHz68J68Ky0TbZcyHMAjxLS1tkYNa6Ahp9S7Sae4VsC8W_BEs2okQbrZH9axqOLmnGVimfKo/s640/Dog+sledding+Jan+15+068.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mid-winter: beautiful in a bleak, wasted sort-of way</td></tr>
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Mid-winter pigeon hunting from the safety of the apartment:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi1dNoUoZwLPNnmAKZCnILWVDvbBW0wL9siavyrBfuEEsoWi_f7K6ujgU2girsjmy8dw3AOuWCmuDmxNZK4DTgOs5Ey3sr82vdqBDxg05OoqVcWTRurYm9n52HU1dlYgUB402UN9GXwV4/s1600/IMG_2568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi1dNoUoZwLPNnmAKZCnILWVDvbBW0wL9siavyrBfuEEsoWi_f7K6ujgU2girsjmy8dw3AOuWCmuDmxNZK4DTgOs5Ey3sr82vdqBDxg05OoqVcWTRurYm9n52HU1dlYgUB402UN9GXwV4/s640/IMG_2568.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Predator vs. prey face-off</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUTaazt-EN7PezqSkhPjfHXEURgekbIxfV4_M_CNvVD39KVY_vHvjQ8UWaXw7uYu-0LtUi9OLno6XzPAUYDOGUAk5m9-5H285TL6O8wySdJ2Y7WnbN_PjE7Ox-iz_iYpJQyOSgi8v4HYU/s1600/Max&Julian_Dec2014a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUTaazt-EN7PezqSkhPjfHXEURgekbIxfV4_M_CNvVD39KVY_vHvjQ8UWaXw7uYu-0LtUi9OLno6XzPAUYDOGUAk5m9-5H285TL6O8wySdJ2Y7WnbN_PjE7Ox-iz_iYpJQyOSgi8v4HYU/s640/Max&Julian_Dec2014a.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ineffectually hunting pigeons is the best way to stave off cabin fever - Julian and Max</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihaL6Ei3a4HuVmWcJUEaR3wm7huHdi_T2k_wpty71u2W_aI8aVXLXUW67MLnFcjv91_XJef9iqIXexrvCCXENxLh0sZHVpbhyphenhyphenCsfcagcj51ZB-g6ktLKFuysOv1Qe3_MrHm5oYGP8gzx8/s1600/Max&Julian_June2014a.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihaL6Ei3a4HuVmWcJUEaR3wm7huHdi_T2k_wpty71u2W_aI8aVXLXUW67MLnFcjv91_XJef9iqIXexrvCCXENxLh0sZHVpbhyphenhyphenCsfcagcj51ZB-g6ktLKFuysOv1Qe3_MrHm5oYGP8gzx8/s640/Max&Julian_June2014a.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cuddle buddies: can you believe that I was worried that these two wouldn't be able to live together in the same home?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn81IGYu_1lH5HrGa6JJ8_qh1qh209zNMKQZa7TjqRyouIC3Ks43JiexcG4VM5azcpV5ZYAzoziQxIZsf4aaOnURoM0OMGGofwpLEnXeq4QulAQ47fyHyZVISXGvvOWL8swgiUUWMsHHo/s1600/May+7th+2015_3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn81IGYu_1lH5HrGa6JJ8_qh1qh209zNMKQZa7TjqRyouIC3Ks43JiexcG4VM5azcpV5ZYAzoziQxIZsf4aaOnURoM0OMGGofwpLEnXeq4QulAQ47fyHyZVISXGvvOWL8swgiUUWMsHHo/s640/May+7th+2015_3.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cuddle buddies: armchair edition</td></tr>
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February is my birthday month:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBgJF-uawMX1h3Kdz1gkNKtttwIrXAaR1tswRy5N1hmnj-8y_TqM5XwvW8yNISCOouvwKMX9qBGYrea6wI4Jw6KvsQ6_p2BiEuyhYNsG2RUIebwdV4lWqkYqc_06RTbWCV2m8AYGHxx-Y/s1600/33rd+birthday.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBgJF-uawMX1h3Kdz1gkNKtttwIrXAaR1tswRy5N1hmnj-8y_TqM5XwvW8yNISCOouvwKMX9qBGYrea6wI4Jw6KvsQ6_p2BiEuyhYNsG2RUIebwdV4lWqkYqc_06RTbWCV2m8AYGHxx-Y/s400/33rd+birthday.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px; text-align: center;">Happy birthday to me!<br />
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March Madness, the Mongolian way: horseback riding through backcountry in deep snow!<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZZVGF5Z_SKRS0wgxMT9RMeJ0GLrz36mS9vNzyN-FIX86ack0EbcEE7V68AzxiSJz57WqqwoD_RHumsyb-YB9672m6qHjl1CUb8njKvB6_Rmya1TAq-ivZeHuxFBHynJh2LF3qM_rsiZs/s1600/March+14th+2015+Terelj+ride.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZZVGF5Z_SKRS0wgxMT9RMeJ0GLrz36mS9vNzyN-FIX86ack0EbcEE7V68AzxiSJz57WqqwoD_RHumsyb-YB9672m6qHjl1CUb8njKvB6_Rmya1TAq-ivZeHuxFBHynJh2LF3qM_rsiZs/s640/March+14th+2015+Terelj+ride.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Galloping through the deep sudden snow drifts <br />
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After the winter snow melts, the blasted brown and yellow of Mongolian spring sets in. Spring is the harshest season in Mongolia. While most people imagine the winter, with its searing winds and blistering cold, to be the biggest challenge, spring is traditionally considered the worst time of year. There are some excellent reasons for this attitude, including the fact that springtime is the starving time, when herd animals have made it through the winter but need to live for several more months before new growth appears on the landscape. A herder will lose many animals during a long or harsh spring. </div>
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Spring also has extremely tempermental weather: dust storms, high winds, hail and snow, rain, and sudden sunbursts. This changeable weather is physically and emotionally taxing. In Mongolian, a moody or tempermental person is literally described as having a temperment like spring weather! Spring brings 'spring syndrome', where people experience fatigue, fall ill more easily, and get overly emotional at the drop of a hat. In fact, people will tell you that spring is the time for puppy love, political protests, and civil unrest.</div>
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The velvety green and vibrant wildflowers of summer don't begin to appear before June. Thus, springtime in the Mongolian countryside looks like this (Tuv province in early May):</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1EeZ4WZxMSJ132AnZ5kQvMDzCmUoFRgJtGVuaixUzo4WEDYSVix7Z4XasNsrxj1MdKYymlWft1nEKFndOWVnp2IVHl95r_p-QVSl22EhlJJFtx04ekz2lgKI1rMmNedRBj84KmmjtFR0/s1600/mng_+011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1EeZ4WZxMSJ132AnZ5kQvMDzCmUoFRgJtGVuaixUzo4WEDYSVix7Z4XasNsrxj1MdKYymlWft1nEKFndOWVnp2IVHl95r_p-QVSl22EhlJJFtx04ekz2lgKI1rMmNedRBj84KmmjtFR0/s640/mng_+011.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the Tonyukuk monument site in Tuv Province: the silver Chinggis Khan statue at Tsonjin Boldog and snow-capped Khan-Khentii mountains in the distance</td></tr>
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Tonyukuk was a general and advisor of the great ruler of the Turk Empire, Bilge Khan (reigned 717-734 AD). I have personally observed numerous Turk-period burials and ritual features in this part of Central Mongolia, although the Tonyukuk monument site is the most well-known by far. The Turk Empire is the next major polity in Mongolian history following the Xiongnu Empire (209 BC to 93 AD or 147 AD, depending on how one interprets the numerous fissions and civil wars within the Xiongnu in the 1st and 2nd centuries AD) and the first of the eastern steppe empires to produce autohistorical accounts in indigenous writing systems. The most famous example of Turk imperial writing is found on the Orkhon Inscriptions, massive stone stelae located in the Orkhon valley approximately 300km west of Ulaanbaatar that are now housed in the Khushuu Tsaidam museum (http://www.touristinfocenter.mn/en/cate1_more.aspx?ItemID=39). After the Orkhon Inscriptions and Khushuu Tsaidam, the Tonyukuk monument is likely the most significant Turk imperial context in Mongolia.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IE2aLcB_soV6PUPwmHTZAGOpYJJeEHgGClGGpH6iABPylrRXFr5wQ8HaMbKIyV8DbirP4VF7Sm5nyEvKsd3pIh6KqyFm92Fv760ffZAkoH8KRkBjvDC7MoHdLVzXVdAqpUM4KwH1_8c/s1600/mng_+008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IE2aLcB_soV6PUPwmHTZAGOpYJJeEHgGClGGpH6iABPylrRXFr5wQ8HaMbKIyV8DbirP4VF7Sm5nyEvKsd3pIh6KqyFm92Fv760ffZAkoH8KRkBjvDC7MoHdLVzXVdAqpUM4KwH1_8c/s640/mng_+008.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Standing stone at the Tonyukuk memorial site</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigr-3KJptZ2ePAQawYeAojmFaomUrLx8OYWKx80C-e_aYggb_cIJYEl-ypknw8Sl5TigPbRbiAtYR3Nh0t-qTmSU1ldI2FyuAp1z6UOpJQJqzvjfUbZ6p-wqzVr-h3BNcoKt98FmloPCc/s1600/mng_+010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigr-3KJptZ2ePAQawYeAojmFaomUrLx8OYWKx80C-e_aYggb_cIJYEl-ypknw8Sl5TigPbRbiAtYR3Nh0t-qTmSU1ldI2FyuAp1z6UOpJQJqzvjfUbZ6p-wqzVr-h3BNcoKt98FmloPCc/s640/mng_+010.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Balbal </i>line leading away from the Tonyukuk memorial site, running eastward toward the hills</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgPNJrZlmkf0I9yZRQ66ky8Kh_jJmcBvxEt-9xGqv2HegjjIu-C8vpVdDiZFIXE3gOWJnQFAf7LT0ybBebthgeW2OLvRL-sS6LrCtFVEYtCf9zN9pFsMJjPpJKOcu2INxNIVcMAfT4BHM/s1600/mng_+013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgPNJrZlmkf0I9yZRQ66ky8Kh_jJmcBvxEt-9xGqv2HegjjIu-C8vpVdDiZFIXE3gOWJnQFAf7LT0ybBebthgeW2OLvRL-sS6LrCtFVEYtCf9zN9pFsMJjPpJKOcu2INxNIVcMAfT4BHM/s640/mng_+013.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Excavated Turk-period burial near the Tonyukuk site with its own eastward-running <i>balbal </i>line</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk0QruuZn1s_P8jn7Pha43I1EhExjdn2RCA-UToGMBowAjw8l0btdu6UByHo4g1-5uaQz_UAjqfADBDPtjN7FFVysN05UVsY1xCSLoVXlF5e7n_-Xkw0GzkTc2iXEAR8sFke1mQmZNXQc/s1600/mng_+014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk0QruuZn1s_P8jn7Pha43I1EhExjdn2RCA-UToGMBowAjw8l0btdu6UByHo4g1-5uaQz_UAjqfADBDPtjN7FFVysN05UVsY1xCSLoVXlF5e7n_-Xkw0GzkTc2iXEAR8sFke1mQmZNXQc/s640/mng_+014.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of cross-hatch patterning on one of the stone used to construct the Turk-period burial</td></tr>
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Springtime in Mongolia heralds the birth of herd animals, new life flourishing in the face of harsh conditions. This spring I had the unexpected privilege of witnessing the first few hours of new life - mostly new-born calves, due to the month - out on the steppe. The little calf below was particularly sweet, wobbling around on untested legs and hopping around its mother as she ate her afterbirth.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-XeieNP7LgHNpGjXK1A_frPzMwE3-laoG-_JHIM5nETD4i3kQGHQpy2cWeqKynbkMPo0GT5QXXaH5IxW04m7OHlgiHD9drhkwOgCWU0m45HrP3WOGKKWE4lN4Ls0fAHAw0MYQgA7Os8E/s1600/mng_+017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-XeieNP7LgHNpGjXK1A_frPzMwE3-laoG-_JHIM5nETD4i3kQGHQpy2cWeqKynbkMPo0GT5QXXaH5IxW04m7OHlgiHD9drhkwOgCWU0m45HrP3WOGKKWE4lN4Ls0fAHAw0MYQgA7Os8E/s640/mng_+017.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome to the world, little calf! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm9Iry9IaUfo4o7DjQ_lM_vxHZQdO_LawohAY2vk1KrcCPVhC46NP6DFuKxmEL91_aXoP6Cqt2EfqGLOAmx0Ei5cf4aK6-br4SuAZL2uFxNSb4j_NsxMIbRTN_2FmKpprLhSyx_layxC8/s1600/mng_+044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm9Iry9IaUfo4o7DjQ_lM_vxHZQdO_LawohAY2vk1KrcCPVhC46NP6DFuKxmEL91_aXoP6Cqt2EfqGLOAmx0Ei5cf4aK6-br4SuAZL2uFxNSb4j_NsxMIbRTN_2FmKpprLhSyx_layxC8/s640/mng_+044.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Off-roading in the Ar Janchivlan Valley</td></tr>
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But it's already late June and I'm behind the times: here in Mongolia, summer has begun in earnest! Future posts will hopefully focus on the incomparable splendor and endless adventures of the Mongolian summer.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-72486575720859427632015-05-13T17:59:00.001-07:002015-07-02T19:01:39.588-07:00Close Encounters of the Mongolian KindNatural beauty abounds in Mongolia. Even the least-talented photographer with a disposable camera (i.e., me in 2005) can come home with stunning imagery of a countryside that seems to exist on some other plane. The ease by which the camera transforms the Mongolian landscape into aesthetically-pleasing pieces and portions can lead one to imagine that it is a static, albeit lovely, thing.<br />
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The landscape is in fact in constant motion, constant flux. Perhaps it would be better to speak of Mongolian landscapes, the plural denoting multiplicity, overlap, and interdigitation of the lives and spaces that create one another. These landscapes are in a state of becoming as a result of ongoing interactions between living things, the environment, and the past that create and occur in the landscape. Thus, while the last post focused on imagery of natural beauty, it could not entirely banish the active, living participants that we encountered throughout landscapes in the Mongolian countryside. This is quite appropriate: the summer of 2014 was one of numerous encounters with people, animals, and the landscape throughout Central Mongolia.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2bILfnOtBoFPJEO7n98Bueh1CHH56Ze51YrBI040_r8Z2-40-39EGIU9zkcIfAssOEr5StMWlIE6rGnXCVq7wJvL6t9WM0e13roOYx1fLXaZU-nJBKoCltAKgwORwTzO5dFKqXq19Iz0/s1600/Trip+4_014_15222085886_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2bILfnOtBoFPJEO7n98Bueh1CHH56Ze51YrBI040_r8Z2-40-39EGIU9zkcIfAssOEr5StMWlIE6rGnXCVq7wJvL6t9WM0e13roOYx1fLXaZU-nJBKoCltAKgwORwTzO5dFKqXq19Iz0/s640/Trip+4_014_15222085886_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clouds, yaks, and a parked motorcycle in Uvurkhangai: <br />
a moment of stillness amidst the ever-changing landscape.</td></tr>
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Before I leap directly into another set of photographs from the talented Ellen Platts, I should note that there are many wonderful encounters from 2014 of which little or no photographic record exists. Some of the most memorable people, parties, and places include:</div>
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-Irina and her family in Bulgan. Irina, Dolgii's elder sister, is the matriach of an extended family of herders living in Saikhan <i>soum </i>(county), the area in Mongolia that famously produces the most delicious <i>airag</i>, or fermented mare's milk, in Mongolia (although this title is hotly contested by residents from a few other locations). Personally I would say that Irina's family brews the best stuff around and it can be quite potent. <i>Airag </i>usually has a low alcohol content, but this can be altered by the length of fermentation, the fodder the mares have been eating, and the season.</div>
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Irina and her family are truly delightful. Although Irina is a grandmother of middle school-aged children, she is a delight: an avid dancer, a real jokester, a deft hand at drinking games, a vociferous expert on many subjects. Her grandchildren showed us to the family's secret wild strawberry patch on a nearby forested mountain, where we picked and ate berries in the dappled shade of small pine trees. Dolgii personally escorted us to a complex of Turk-period man stones (<i>khun chuluu</i>) and a rock art panel near her own ger. We had a traditional Mongolian barbeque party with the whole family (<i>khorkhog</i>).</div>
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-The party animals of Ulaanchuluut. Purveyors of motorcycles, impromptu steppe karaoke-dance parties, and marmot meat, these guys appeared out of nowhere at our makeshift basecamp with more fun than anyone could have expected.</div>
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-Bayaraa and his family in Bulgan. Our first night out of Ulaanbaatar on our second field excursion, a wild storm hit. Out on the open steppe, our tents were battered by torrential rain and high winds for what felt like ages. The next morning, we paid a brief visit to a neighboring Mongolian family, who asked why we hadn't joined them in their ger during the storm! That was how we met Bayaraa, his wife, and their many children in Bayannuur <i>soum</i>. </div>
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At the end of that excursion, we took Bayaraa up on his offer and slept on the floor in the family's ger. Squished into a row like sardines, we passed a cozy night with late-night frog visitors, early morning random herder tea-time, and a bed full of small children leaning over us to waiting eagerly for us to wake up and play.</div>
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-Davaajaa and his family in Khentii. Davaajaa is the gregarious, jovial father of a lovely family living along the Bayan River near the Baldan Bereeven monastery. One of the summer students described Davaajaa as a stand-up comedian who didn't need a stage, an apt description for a many constantly joshing in a booming voice and laughing in the best humor possible. His wife Munkh-Erden welcomed us into their ger for milky tea (<i>suutei tsai</i>) and prepared a barbeque feast for us all to share. Their children, Tunga and Naranbat, are very competitive basketball players and even have a hoop behind the family's <i>ger</i>. Davaajaa's little nephew, who couldn't have been more than four years old, joined us unexpectedly when we went bushwhacking through the undergrowth and muddy stream north of the main Bayan River in search of more archaeological sites. Leaving his nephew in our care was actually a huge gesture of trust on Davaajaa's part, and the little guy did pretty well during survey. Future archaeologist in training!</div>
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-Yuri and Tselma in Khentii. In the north of Khentii Province along the Eg River, Yuri and Tselma live in a log cabin on the outskirts of the town of Batshireet. The in-laws of one of our drivers, Boldoo, they kindly welcomed us into their home and homeland. Yuri is something of a local expert, from the best fishing spots to archaeological sites, and took us to overnight in his idyllic (albeit very mosquito-y) private camp ground in the pine forest on a bluff over the river. Tselma makes the hands-down best dish I've ever had in Mongolia: home-made <i>tsotsgii </i>with wild blueberries spread on home-made bread. Tselma's <i>tsotsgii </i>is most analogous to clotted cream, although in other parts of Mongolia I've seen it turn out more like sour cream, and our team literally gorged on liters of the stuff. Khentii is famous for its bread and unusual compared to the rest of Mongolia in being a traditional bread-baking area. In fact, Khentii is known as the bread basket of Mongolia and we passed more large-scale agriculture in Khentii than anywhere else on our journeys.</div>
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-Galdan <i>akh </i>(term of respect for an elder man, literally "big brother") in Uvurkhangai. Galdan is the caretaker and manager of the hotsprings resort at Mogoit Rashaan outside of Bat-Ulzii county seat. Tucked high up in the mountains and surrounded by dark forest, Mogoit Rashaan is one of the legendary sites visited by Zanabazar (one of the most significant historical figures of late medieval Mongolia, Zanabazar in this case can be thought of as a sort of the Mongolian Buddhist St. Patrick/Johnny Appleseed character), who purportedly magicked the local snakes into the rocks at the hotsprings, thus the place's name, "snake springs". Galdan recounted this and other stories about Mogoit Rashaan, including the healing properties of each separate spring, as he led us on a personalized tour of the site. He kindly let our exhausted group stay overnight in an empty lot, which turned into a cow pasture in the morning, free of charge after we bathed in the springs and found ourselves completely tuckered out.</div>
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Certainly our encounters were not limited to human beings. From the cuddly stray puppy in Kharkhorin to the super-sized camel in Elsen Tasarkhai, the <i>furgong-</i>invading mosquitoes at Rashaan Khad to the horses we rode outside of Gachuurt, our reconnaissance and the landscapes would be incomplete without them.</div>
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But what photographs do exist are charming reminders of hospitality, comradery, belly laughs, spirited games, and the occasional brush with death. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjgJfvUUXx0Y72TJJWrWJB8tJlICioWL9TpP6m4wtx2BSY5xAZN6nsSMCtjhMrqd9wkriC5lwSWIcdmS06SD2FaMYBiZsEKys4NwxgobBYKx03TDdo7FsUBuB8Gs-N231sthBfu3rkXU/s1600/Trip+1_010_15222193916_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjgJfvUUXx0Y72TJJWrWJB8tJlICioWL9TpP6m4wtx2BSY5xAZN6nsSMCtjhMrqd9wkriC5lwSWIcdmS06SD2FaMYBiZsEKys4NwxgobBYKx03TDdo7FsUBuB8Gs-N231sthBfu3rkXU/s640/Trip+1_010_15222193916_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dolgii (second from left) poses with our group above a rock art panel. Baaska (far right) is in the 'genial' phase of his 'genial-belligerent-manic-murderous' cycle.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam and Baaska take a local herder's motorcycle out for an evening spin in Arkhangai</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvxcKE6dVP5oj9fXc17AyhaKj8RHwOPvOSFyw8hbC9YPVM1eGtYSBtggKYPhfVt3pXe5dXhcK12x86FfcVYRpEAQ1ZqH_dSxZHriE8xXH6omr_h7NrlYorcj_u34JRC9WoXbNhjyDIjkY/s1600/15241809211_3c23b2d3f2_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvxcKE6dVP5oj9fXc17AyhaKj8RHwOPvOSFyw8hbC9YPVM1eGtYSBtggKYPhfVt3pXe5dXhcK12x86FfcVYRpEAQ1ZqH_dSxZHriE8xXH6omr_h7NrlYorcj_u34JRC9WoXbNhjyDIjkY/s640/15241809211_3c23b2d3f2_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Mare and foal in Suujiin Valley, Bulgan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitwhFk81HI-IPbDaRBVVnTZVwDHVfHpWm9BrKEVMVIQDbqdTtKR1sUA8xkxsfLHwESYb6GUWyJOpNOcxuLMpq8t4u6soQ1koeptvnOP1AbKBWxTvBPEI7maZhE2OEDN8bDw10B0A3o4Mk/s1600/Trip+3+-+Khentii+Bayan+Gol+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitwhFk81HI-IPbDaRBVVnTZVwDHVfHpWm9BrKEVMVIQDbqdTtKR1sUA8xkxsfLHwESYb6GUWyJOpNOcxuLMpq8t4u6soQ1koeptvnOP1AbKBWxTvBPEI7maZhE2OEDN8bDw10B0A3o4Mk/s640/Trip+3+-+Khentii+Bayan+Gol+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Davaajaa's nephew picks wildflowers while the rest of us bushwhack through backcountry near Bayan River in Khentii</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKbz9oj-xMZP1DenNiWeW1LkpGD-_Eoy024DvWQ4y-4Y9BsAAzMjGhdB2zYw_DRU9qDPI6iPGfq4zvqnGOJLfbsZTux3I2H-1g6WanrIzo17iz9Mb6A51luM65kzWS18DXR1YxCeRhzOo/s1600/Trip+3+-+Ovoo+near+Rashaan+Khad+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKbz9oj-xMZP1DenNiWeW1LkpGD-_Eoy024DvWQ4y-4Y9BsAAzMjGhdB2zYw_DRU9qDPI6iPGfq4zvqnGOJLfbsZTux3I2H-1g6WanrIzo17iz9Mb6A51luM65kzWS18DXR1YxCeRhzOo/s640/Trip+3+-+Ovoo+near+Rashaan+Khad+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our driver, Ganaa, observes at a major <i>ovoo </i>site near Khurkh River, Khentii. Ganaa will walk clock-wise around the <i>ovoo </i>three times, tossing a small stone onto the pile at the end of each revolution, and make a wish (or repeat a blessing).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI9ly-AxdT5mNo_xkiOFjuZpiSWsOllVqPzT7Kp8OWqgUxPGEnFFFqUD0b-ja8vkaliVkTIKz0D8c98Y6KdDw1gWPrv2g5CfSPsqOCtwqscerekhyf_q5dGBM8oZayJeGV6bTq7tC1zcw/s1600/KHN117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI9ly-AxdT5mNo_xkiOFjuZpiSWsOllVqPzT7Kp8OWqgUxPGEnFFFqUD0b-ja8vkaliVkTIKz0D8c98Y6KdDw1gWPrv2g5CfSPsqOCtwqscerekhyf_q5dGBM8oZayJeGV6bTq7tC1zcw/s640/KHN117.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turk-period site with the dogs from a nearby family, Khentii</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoZboYKMr2RrMME9iTG60dFDSPEAQYQeFmkT9aYfhycUxyXBverAC-VnEnN-BvUfbcdnp159Inv6rsb2HYKR0i0H139tjMN0q2E513kpHtbghGA6L1r-yNfOIqNuxBjbhjjd5W766NV8/s1600/Trip+4+-+Sheep+&+goat+outside+of+Khujirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoZboYKMr2RrMME9iTG60dFDSPEAQYQeFmkT9aYfhycUxyXBverAC-VnEnN-BvUfbcdnp159Inv6rsb2HYKR0i0H139tjMN0q2E513kpHtbghGA6L1r-yNfOIqNuxBjbhjjd5W766NV8/s640/Trip+4+-+Sheep+&+goat+outside+of+Khujirt.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">An encroaching herd of sheep and goat during survey, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmvTB4K5xwY0P55JuqYdE5iZDN1BRMUCXPdwJKsKFvtADUsKijmLsUJMU9Xgmgr6ID6eX03cKQc-cRfkwjPLsCp8vadgipLeq1A7S0_sXnkLGEKuiFEPAt-Bbq-H0uieqKm58g_nepIfo/s1600/Trip+4+-+Goats+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmvTB4K5xwY0P55JuqYdE5iZDN1BRMUCXPdwJKsKFvtADUsKijmLsUJMU9Xgmgr6ID6eX03cKQc-cRfkwjPLsCp8vadgipLeq1A7S0_sXnkLGEKuiFEPAt-Bbq-H0uieqKm58g_nepIfo/s640/Trip+4+-+Goats+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For goats, eating trumps fear every time</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWcncj-SXlF-0bw_hJnztaWcXJ1oY1f0BrhzYYjmw3pcOYn5du0ZHPAe2LxTiDOH-sa0_U6P26C9va5O9kTaQbyIPr10Pn7TtYeAzLpfti8cGoGJ-EAZbASh5MON2GSntJfIUV6Cuy9Cc/s1600/Trip+4_010_15058337999_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWcncj-SXlF-0bw_hJnztaWcXJ1oY1f0BrhzYYjmw3pcOYn5du0ZHPAe2LxTiDOH-sa0_U6P26C9va5O9kTaQbyIPr10Pn7TtYeAzLpfti8cGoGJ-EAZbASh5MON2GSntJfIUV6Cuy9Cc/s640/Trip+4_010_15058337999_l.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">A truly magnificent goat beard</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI13k5pyhcOFZbGgU54Gvqj4tcfJMWLHwgcr-xQSpbmJ-7SB1N0zEK9dDYwMuwFKTXlJ-WqQkB8lrUMLdFLn6vP_pCcTGkRRIAnnca0JP8yophAQkZHz75A5ez8Q6kLMoLYGALJo86bzc/s1600/15242417911_7f6f9a0c2e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI13k5pyhcOFZbGgU54Gvqj4tcfJMWLHwgcr-xQSpbmJ-7SB1N0zEK9dDYwMuwFKTXlJ-WqQkB8lrUMLdFLn6vP_pCcTGkRRIAnnca0JP8yophAQkZHz75A5ez8Q6kLMoLYGALJo86bzc/s640/15242417911_7f6f9a0c2e_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Despite being the loudest and brashest herd animals in Mongolia, goats can be quite friendly. Note the blue paint on the horns that its owner uses in lieu of notching ears or branding</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitMhUlViLtp6dyb2nvjfNAzruNHmm18V8uba8hBLSsWZsWIsT_FviKaebqsvuz7z2MhF7f2ZaWFD1wkjWqyMtrkTTigCYKa3hk_ryKU0fPC7sGAzVWVtYdGdcVXe4KtMgf9QBTLrYIueo/s1600/Trip+4_011_15245090565_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitMhUlViLtp6dyb2nvjfNAzruNHmm18V8uba8hBLSsWZsWIsT_FviKaebqsvuz7z2MhF7f2ZaWFD1wkjWqyMtrkTTigCYKa3hk_ryKU0fPC7sGAzVWVtYdGdcVXe4KtMgf9QBTLrYIueo/s640/Trip+4_011_15245090565_l.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">This sweet girl joined us as we explored the Bronze Age cemetery at Khujirt, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUZkPYLXdNcsUe_Yt87TGaDYS0AM_4JoUEkovxho0HLMcENIbhorATlIODEUbUwnExSb2vC009fI4kK9fxOCfRcw7WiUXENoo4wMRE_XDjvnjt7qiUFJt2Fl6seJssWmsIUadh3uRePsI/s1600/Trip+4_033_15244692762_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUZkPYLXdNcsUe_Yt87TGaDYS0AM_4JoUEkovxho0HLMcENIbhorATlIODEUbUwnExSb2vC009fI4kK9fxOCfRcw7WiUXENoo4wMRE_XDjvnjt7qiUFJt2Fl6seJssWmsIUadh3uRePsI/s640/Trip+4_033_15244692762_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Our hosts in Bat-Ulzii, Uvurkhangai: future professional baseball stars</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Of all the families we visited during the summer of 2014, I only have photos from our time with the extended family of yak herders whose <i>zuslan </i>(summer encampment) is located outside of the town of Bat-Ulzii near the Upper Orkhon River.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBLg8PXw4TSP1YWVFaW9Cw-Z7U5lwIXkCflqJeWPuZ5gkLZ9hVO0Ek6w1c0Xl-6X8ifgnO0u3y2-1P0iSSF4L2JdSkvTD_bpWGdxPw2EyQlrs2M4VGYNUZh4tMRLIu7WJWRj0Pul_S0XI/s1600/Trip+4_036_15222060936_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBLg8PXw4TSP1YWVFaW9Cw-Z7U5lwIXkCflqJeWPuZ5gkLZ9hVO0Ek6w1c0Xl-6X8ifgnO0u3y2-1P0iSSF4L2JdSkvTD_bpWGdxPw2EyQlrs2M4VGYNUZh4tMRLIu7WJWRj0Pul_S0XI/s640/Trip+4_036_15222060936_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Several of our host's grandchildren pose outside of their grandmother's ger</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our hosts let us all stay overnight in a ger after sharing their home-made <i>airag </i>and <i>nermel </i>(moonshine made from milk) and swapping stories after dark.<br />
<br />
But the next morning was the highlight of the visit:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3c7RjDC4_ejysXFN_R0eJQBgGJtSwK7o9Tc1RIy0udSJ7juZRphl1pG52oNZWAwKwQD0tEYqJ2uiThWJy8Ughknf0UTTq9SYbzTEfckyMNhyphenhyphena7vK_1SQgY_OlqqqRjScItAgPY890buY/s1600/Trip+4+-+Bat+Ulzii+baseball+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3c7RjDC4_ejysXFN_R0eJQBgGJtSwK7o9Tc1RIy0udSJ7juZRphl1pG52oNZWAwKwQD0tEYqJ2uiThWJy8Ughknf0UTTq9SYbzTEfckyMNhyphenhyphena7vK_1SQgY_OlqqqRjScItAgPY890buY/s640/Trip+4+-+Bat+Ulzii+baseball+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ariuna at bat; she faces off against the best pitcher in Bat-Ulzii, Altansukh (red shirt)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One of the summer students, Evan, brought along several softballs to give to the children of nomadic families during our visits as part of appropriate gift-exchange between host and guest in Mongolia. The softball was a huge hit in Bat-Ulzii, despite the fact that no one in the family had ever played. We taught some basics about pitching and hitting, then scouted around for a bat (a long wooden pole) to play a few rounds.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitZJaTyHqN9HD2OhnLsOW4VtMB4Y5H4WdJKuEbA_1o-paiLRT_3nuLfm9VzMCYRGEDI3FP-mz5M_D3DMLwhCn14RfjXR-Lhy4oxlE47kxRhG0gEC5mP8aZyYLWcQ_DEjrxDtw02Dx9gY4/s1600/Trip+4+-+Bat-Ulzii+baseball+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitZJaTyHqN9HD2OhnLsOW4VtMB4Y5H4WdJKuEbA_1o-paiLRT_3nuLfm9VzMCYRGEDI3FP-mz5M_D3DMLwhCn14RfjXR-Lhy4oxlE47kxRhG0gEC5mP8aZyYLWcQ_DEjrxDtw02Dx9gY4/s640/Trip+4+-+Bat-Ulzii+baseball+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My turn!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The girls, boys, and young guys of the family all took turns pitching, hitting, and playing a few rounds of catch.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaiIefdu-_xiOImvWjyXjthm7136lnM1yjsLBboq-7FXYZxZyZoD8zqYQShcKvCKF4dPMsh1HSalSy4FebxdajXkoEhIxjT2j37m__8HylRpQAXHcS5W4piz2JFrk1T4WRGUHg71cMUCM/s1600/Trip+4_035_15058313649_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaiIefdu-_xiOImvWjyXjthm7136lnM1yjsLBboq-7FXYZxZyZoD8zqYQShcKvCKF4dPMsh1HSalSy4FebxdajXkoEhIxjT2j37m__8HylRpQAXHcS5W4piz2JFrk1T4WRGUHg71cMUCM/s640/Trip+4_035_15058313649_l.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Despite learning to play with a wooden pole, these guys gave baseball their best shot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
By the end of the morning, the softball was gutted. It was worth it; lots of fun and good spirits abounded. Give these kids a few years and Mongolia may be able to field a competitive team!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-zWQCuu7asTQUhCpR3-Pl-Md6M_AJeZrSLTzevnGZcFSzME4dYiQXocFyTC8_Wea7m8Ja1D8_1Xqz1R1RJzlotf5Q0KnliW2rteO82Kss5NgTSI10E5rrMl27vGWlxki7aR2mYCYcOr0/s1600/Trip+4_Bat+Ulzii+family+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="547" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-zWQCuu7asTQUhCpR3-Pl-Md6M_AJeZrSLTzevnGZcFSzME4dYiQXocFyTC8_Wea7m8Ja1D8_1Xqz1R1RJzlotf5Q0KnliW2rteO82Kss5NgTSI10E5rrMl27vGWlxki7aR2mYCYcOr0/s640/Trip+4_Bat+Ulzii+family+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Future shut-out pitcher for the Mongolian national team and her big brother, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriK_n0cQyMZXuJB7d4R9eKD7kQ9rwLny9hIxN4wTuB4IDC6Fgkk4bBrd2xCj5VdWeFx1x5j1-VBfJzV6-oNGymvjEkLg5y5_1_dnlJbq7wt5U6dOHUR0OFIvHmC30rQ5x3fERb_SHBxw/s1600/Trip+4+-+Bat-Ulzii+soum+center.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjriK_n0cQyMZXuJB7d4R9eKD7kQ9rwLny9hIxN4wTuB4IDC6Fgkk4bBrd2xCj5VdWeFx1x5j1-VBfJzV6-oNGymvjEkLg5y5_1_dnlJbq7wt5U6dOHUR0OFIvHmC30rQ5x3fERb_SHBxw/s640/Trip+4+-+Bat-Ulzii+soum+center.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Saddled horse waiting for its rider in Bat-Ulzii county seat, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One thrilling little adventure of which I have photographic evidence was the spur-of-the-moment team decision to cross the Orkhon River on foot just upstream of the waterfall. Several students were brave and quick enough to leap across the rocks that dotted the deep, rushing water. Others headed further upstream to cross at a calmer spot. I had the best of both worlds:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: auto; padding: 6px; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; widows: 1; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIL5tugdQkXa2nZslN1NP4snXGgQ5j1jtfJe_O-LjJM-4sv3J5xrZH1rBhtnNiL2rqgastYr6So8uT51K01w9-ov5bhyphenhyphenOUYXL1j4vXC7RM9RMkStKsnuv-qyh3k9OROol0lkHSNrX8tN4/s1600/Trip+4_069_15058273579_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIL5tugdQkXa2nZslN1NP4snXGgQ5j1jtfJe_O-LjJM-4sv3J5xrZH1rBhtnNiL2rqgastYr6So8uT51K01w9-ov5bhyphenhyphenOUYXL1j4vXC7RM9RMkStKsnuv-qyh3k9OROol0lkHSNrX8tN4/s640/Trip+4_069_15058273579_l.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">The students crossed the Orkhon River as nimbly and quickly as goats. I, on the other hand, am more of a cautious, slow-moving yak-type.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
This was one of several attempts to cross via the slippery, unevenly distributed rocks in the river. After this proved unsuccessful, I moved upstream to take the plunge, rather literally. Full disclosure: I ended up taking off my boots, rolling up my pants, and wading across the river with a stick for balance. It was deeper than expected; good thing I'm pretty tall. Height, sturdy legs, and quick-drying pants - I know my strengths!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBIVbiDEk3jiFbuXI-S_FdpbVxUU8TsOJPXHM4VlGXzvKvaY-OYrmdKNZMXPZjJ8pmgrosS9zrxRTHS0_z-HIPJ1p8FsLDjwfSNaeW5J9idv-I5ZDr8szrbuhc5Mv4YM6vnLXznz1sxGY/s1600/Trip+4+-+Horse+Ulaan+Tsutsgalan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBIVbiDEk3jiFbuXI-S_FdpbVxUU8TsOJPXHM4VlGXzvKvaY-OYrmdKNZMXPZjJ8pmgrosS9zrxRTHS0_z-HIPJ1p8FsLDjwfSNaeW5J9idv-I5ZDr8szrbuhc5Mv4YM6vnLXznz1sxGY/s640/Trip+4+-+Horse+Ulaan+Tsutsgalan.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horse near Orkhon waterfall, Ulaan tsutgalan, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf2xTydTdduImIuTSAflOKteBy89FHD1f_HQcfU2PgJj3WIe0MR-wxoq3O0nlJa6SG9dVewY7GepUkkyNOENQ050kOOWhjmnVeoBTCdh-vb4fjnS8TWE2Z68bFf6sgnBQ2JlQm8U9VGA4/s1600/Trip+4_059_15222034246_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf2xTydTdduImIuTSAflOKteBy89FHD1f_HQcfU2PgJj3WIe0MR-wxoq3O0nlJa6SG9dVewY7GepUkkyNOENQ050kOOWhjmnVeoBTCdh-vb4fjnS8TWE2Z68bFf6sgnBQ2JlQm8U9VGA4/s640/Trip+4_059_15222034246_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Cow with a collar relaxing on a country road</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The last of our journey through the Mongolian countryside took us to significant medieval sites now populated by animals instead of khans:<br />
<br />
-the Mongol imperial capital at Kharkhorin (Qara Qorum), where we also saw Erdene Zuu monastery and the shoat express:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6pKXwA31afon2qA_1k0t5-MK1qfdwXhA7TpQe6dJgVxtj7z6Xk0xgnUJwqzufyTIDML44VWn0EkYt6hS2vS8TqvJb2B0Xl7jtycJVz__SvYWIpHrJqUo-31nYeu9sKS3xy-BF4cCyluw/s1600/15058615640_3a33c0f13b_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6pKXwA31afon2qA_1k0t5-MK1qfdwXhA7TpQe6dJgVxtj7z6Xk0xgnUJwqzufyTIDML44VWn0EkYt6hS2vS8TqvJb2B0Xl7jtycJVz__SvYWIpHrJqUo-31nYeu9sKS3xy-BF4cCyluw/s640/15058615640_3a33c0f13b_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">The Shoat Express, Kharkhorin, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
-the Uyghur imperial ruins at Khar Balgas (Ordu Balik), with some impressive raptors also paying a visit:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoU8f8fhUCcHbY61TmkFy3JOwK410hAUS8PZOnJSCtbcG6ruSmwYy6vUqgd3kexEs4iSiJfUdLhqYav2hHRI-i12NA_8ysH4WGp_YnvSTs_ELGZYisxnDXb-Y_Lj1yJnmUFMrgy-JL-6A/s1600/Trip+4+-+Khar+Balgas+stupa+eagle+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoU8f8fhUCcHbY61TmkFy3JOwK410hAUS8PZOnJSCtbcG6ruSmwYy6vUqgd3kexEs4iSiJfUdLhqYav2hHRI-i12NA_8ysH4WGp_YnvSTs_ELGZYisxnDXb-Y_Lj1yJnmUFMrgy-JL-6A/s640/Trip+4+-+Khar+Balgas+stupa+eagle+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An eagle perches on the ruins of a stupa at Khar Balgas, Arkhangai</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
-the Khitan-period fortress Khar Bukhyn Balgas, which was also the noon-time stomping grounds of a herd of local horses:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-whrZO5l2vIZIzksmpRaJIkbZI18y4lWMK9GDaFL4NC2OVPUle2K6f0xU65nLbN50WtpkJZtuQooZpp0dpWT8YnEK9bePyUK5_AaEPHtR2UY0iAczqgbCl6bc5yRx7OrCIOfL1UXnvE8/s1600/15222344996_f325790a58_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-whrZO5l2vIZIzksmpRaJIkbZI18y4lWMK9GDaFL4NC2OVPUle2K6f0xU65nLbN50WtpkJZtuQooZpp0dpWT8YnEK9bePyUK5_AaEPHtR2UY0iAczqgbCl6bc5yRx7OrCIOfL1UXnvE8/s640/15222344996_f325790a58_o.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">Getting up close and personal with Khar Bukhyn Balgas, Bulgan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_G5uVSkjBlM4P1a9Ar4ftBUwGr7yP3GfGE0d3BWEikb1SginHd4vo_SXcWu1hvbgJJiEf94Hg55FjIMh6jwXj64RrYLUAmppQ1df2nNgEjHjKHGug5qA_p17dgmEZCrIHn9tGWuHILvw/s1600/Trip+4_160_15221905906_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_G5uVSkjBlM4P1a9Ar4ftBUwGr7yP3GfGE0d3BWEikb1SginHd4vo_SXcWu1hvbgJJiEf94Hg55FjIMh6jwXj64RrYLUAmppQ1df2nNgEjHjKHGug5qA_p17dgmEZCrIHn9tGWuHILvw/s640/Trip+4_160_15221905906_l.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A horse herd attempts to squeeze into the sliver of mid-day shade cast by the walls of Khar Bukhyn Balgas, Bulgan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
There's a tremendous amount more that I could say about the summer of 2014, but it's time to wrap up this little series of posts and move forward. Before I let last summer pass into posterity, I want to thank everyone who was involved in making it such a fantastic experience: all of the students who made for such an excellent team, our field assistant Ariuna for being such a go-getter, and our good drivers (Ganaa, Boldoo, and Tsogoo) for safely shepherding us along bump roads and unknown tracks.<br />
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Coming to a blog near you: more catch-up on 2014 and the first months of 2015!<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-51049851650031056702015-05-12T02:07:00.004-07:002015-07-02T19:03:07.351-07:00Ямар уужуу юм бэ монголын тал нутагThe last post focused on the archaeology of summer 2014. That, however, was only a part of the adventure and a sliver of the amazing visuals, scraping the surface on a multi-faceted field experience. Our project photograph, Ellen Platts (http://ellenplatts.com/) did a fantastic job recording our reconnaissance as well as the landscape across which we moved. All of the images in this post are hers and all credit goes entirely to her.<br />
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The title of this post, "<i>Yamar uujuu youm be, Mongolyn tal nutag</i>", is taken from a Mongolian folk song extolling the parallel virtues of the Mongolian countryside and the Mongolian people. The line roughly translates to "How spacious is the Mongolian homeland", but could also be translated as "How peaceful is the Mongolian homeland". Whether considering the wide rolling steppe, the endless sky, or the slow glittering rivers that cut through the countryside, this sentiment rings true.<br />
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The following images are in rough chronological order from last summer's time in the field.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountains outside of Orkhon, Bulgan</td></tr>
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Orkhon <i>soum </i>(analogous to county) of Bulgan province is split by the river of the same name, one of the country's longest and widest rivers.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9iA6-hhuHkaPq4sP3RPeTvwC02j0wZLDFSak-CkvklFkHU0LETbQyWZyIAIBfDxWPPRd_HshABLOe0dw_CsaxSQg5m2_Bbgc3grYPws27zKOUd_V6xi8Haf0geKjYhYNXeEbEP18DSuE/s1600/Trip+1+-+view+of+Khunui+Gol+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9iA6-hhuHkaPq4sP3RPeTvwC02j0wZLDFSak-CkvklFkHU0LETbQyWZyIAIBfDxWPPRd_HshABLOe0dw_CsaxSQg5m2_Bbgc3grYPws27zKOUd_V6xi8Haf0geKjYhYNXeEbEP18DSuE/s1600/Trip+1+-+view+of+Khunui+Gol+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Khunnui River, Arkhangai</td></tr>
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The winding Khunnui River is lined by short willow trees in some places and in others widens and deepens into little pools for bathing and swimming. Throughout the day and night, herders, local families, and various animals alone or in groups come to the Khunnui as the main water source in the valley.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Herds of sheep, goat, horses, and cattle in the Khunnui Valley, Arkhangai</td></tr>
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The portion of the Khunnui River visited in the summer of 2014 runs through Khairkhan <i>soum </i>of Arkhangai Province, where the famous Gol Mod 1 Xiongnu/Khunnu cemetery lies in the sandy wooded slopes east of the river valley. In fact, the sands around Gol Mod 1 are visible in the photo below. Our group spent the majority of our time in the valley examining Bronze Age features distributed around and a top a small mountain just west of the river. Some of Ellen's pictures of these sites can be seen in the previous post. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_h2htasnpkx8AuVNET0QssOGQolZgmJYfJOcEoJtOp_ZPPrgM24dPrwJltk5wWJYUfbviARktoaW18O2IjOMpLRuZeEmihc3amw0Fy0Nem-krje7BFPmiUaBoECEYyl7i6VgA6RgRwA/s1600/BUL058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl_h2htasnpkx8AuVNET0QssOGQolZgmJYfJOcEoJtOp_ZPPrgM24dPrwJltk5wWJYUfbviARktoaW18O2IjOMpLRuZeEmihc3amw0Fy0Nem-krje7BFPmiUaBoECEYyl7i6VgA6RgRwA/s1600/BUL058.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Khunnui Valley with a view of Gol Mod 1 site (major Xiongnu/Khunnu elite cemetery site). Can you spot the <i>khirigsuur</i> in this photo? [Hint: look for geometric shapes in the distribution of rocks]</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDtxS-NdYurxNE6nuRefAjRar4TEtuy-FFYOOKxfgsn5DzdLQXCJTeZwPPjm_ssK3Mkyo4hXF3NmZr7Iit3Q6qyyAPlRG0wRPLaBgk0m8xPcleSltEhBvFOfPt5VN3DPl5JPfy_rnbcIE/s1600/Trip+2+-+stacked+rocks+near+Sumyn+Am.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDtxS-NdYurxNE6nuRefAjRar4TEtuy-FFYOOKxfgsn5DzdLQXCJTeZwPPjm_ssK3Mkyo4hXF3NmZr7Iit3Q6qyyAPlRG0wRPLaBgk0m8xPcleSltEhBvFOfPt5VN3DPl5JPfy_rnbcIE/s1600/Trip+2+-+stacked+rocks+near+Sumyn+Am.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stack of rocks in Suujiin Valley, Bulgan</td></tr>
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Spanning Dashinchilen and Rashaan <i>soum </i>is Suujiin Valley, which runs basically north-south from the town of Dashinchilen to Khungun Khan/Ikh Khan Uul monastery. Suujiin Valley is a mixed steppe-desert environment, with stunning rock formations and scrubby vegetation in place of the lush grass of Saikhan <i>soum </i>or the dense grasses and wildflowers of northeast Khentii Province. Despite feeling like a drier and harsher environment, this part of Bulgan had lovely sunsets:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifYgxfGZSTd3Yy7RG-k72rV8oM5XPJbn9XBw2AuhwKB2v7fj_R8ZjRgZ4z6JxEFC4pbEY-RVyjsxOERiz-HxDmsGHyoulvX7mz3QYzzuG9yvIzfksNmX97yGMbf5xhGCVkGZ1vGewQur0/s1600/Trip+2+-+Valley+S+from+Dashinchilen+to+Khogno+Khan+Khiid+sunset+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifYgxfGZSTd3Yy7RG-k72rV8oM5XPJbn9XBw2AuhwKB2v7fj_R8ZjRgZ4z6JxEFC4pbEY-RVyjsxOERiz-HxDmsGHyoulvX7mz3QYzzuG9yvIzfksNmX97yGMbf5xhGCVkGZ1vGewQur0/s1600/Trip+2+-+Valley+S+from+Dashinchilen+to+Khogno+Khan+Khiid+sunset+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset north of Khungun Khan/Ikh Khan Uul monastery, Bulgan</td></tr>
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At the southern end of Suujiin Valley is the Khungun Tarna Protected Area, where mountain goats (<i>yangir</i>), big-horned sheep (<i>argal'</i>), and numerous raptors dwell amongst the cliffs and scrub vegetation of a towering red-rock mountain range. Khungun Tarna is notable for ecological and cultural significance, as it is the site of numerous sacred places and archaeological features.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVPQtAbCK9At75Ij-cUaiGhJKAWbslQ6Sn2w4Tj_FOoXXq7wN8s0FiFfwxyXhcTVR1x1Vn6oXJLD5x-qiqRIxPYJ6H7sZZdmgEOj5__3t6DHfx1Vn0a2O1ADGcKbv8kiqV4GmlbiDTFbc/s1600/Khungnu+Khan+ovoo+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVPQtAbCK9At75Ij-cUaiGhJKAWbslQ6Sn2w4Tj_FOoXXq7wN8s0FiFfwxyXhcTVR1x1Vn6oXJLD5x-qiqRIxPYJ6H7sZZdmgEOj5__3t6DHfx1Vn0a2O1ADGcKbv8kiqV4GmlbiDTFbc/s1600/Khungnu+Khan+ovoo+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Khungun Tarna <i>ovoo </i>site, Bulgan</td></tr>
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The Khungun Tarna <i>ovoo </i>site is draped in <i>khadag </i>of all five colors: white, yellow, green, red, and blue (by far the most predominant color). Worshipers cast candies, <i>aruul </i>(dried cheese-like products), and money around the site as offerings. <br />
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I have been told that, while the offering may be to forces and beings on a spiritual plane, they are also tangible offerings to the animals. Furthermore, I have heard that when small animals and birds come to consume offerings left at an <i>ovoo</i>, it is considered both good luck and part of the sanctification of the site.<br />
At Khungun Tarna, there were numerous small ground squirrels (<i>zurum</i>) playing their part at the <i>ovoo</i>. <br />
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Last but not least, there were a number of horse skulls gathered together at the eastern aspect of the <i>ovoo</i> site. On a number of occasions I have been told that these are the skulls of prized, beloved, or otherwise highly valued horses. Their owners or human companions collect the skull after the horse dies - these are not evidence of sacrifice, in my experience - and bring it reverently to an <i>ovoo.</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-Ykgz3lvVCMJoc7zGzTUQc6MPUAcgklUOp5aqdexd-hNBql5_BCqszKawg_bYGaNfd6MrZha2sdHa_l5lt8rbkCtzXpt322NBZhm0_1ZswSoZEFL6wLi_qhpxryT7dI04iS-Yeg-rA4/s1600/Khungnu+Khan+Khiid+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-Ykgz3lvVCMJoc7zGzTUQc6MPUAcgklUOp5aqdexd-hNBql5_BCqszKawg_bYGaNfd6MrZha2sdHa_l5lt8rbkCtzXpt322NBZhm0_1ZswSoZEFL6wLi_qhpxryT7dI04iS-Yeg-rA4/s1600/Khungnu+Khan+Khiid+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruins of original Khungun Khan/Ikh Khan Uul monastery, Bulgan. These buildings were destroyed by Socialist forces during the 1937 purges.</td></tr>
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Khungun Khan (or Ikh Khan Uul, the correct but underused name, according to the monastery's caretaker) monastery was once a major religious community. According to the caretaker, around 200 monks lived in 10 temples at this community before the 1937 purges. The bloody and traumatic purges carried out across Mongolia in the late 1930s are rarely discussed by most Mongolians, although many will tell you that every family lost at least one man (father, brother, uncle, or son) to the Socialist forces at the time. Some families saw even more of their loved ones murdered, or saw them taken, never to be heard from again. <br />
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Despite all of my time in Mongolia, I have only heard a few Mongolians closest to me open up even a little bit about their family's experiences during the purges. My perception is that this dark chapter of 20th century history was successfully suppressed for decades and that those who remember mostly remembered that keeping quiet was the best defense against future purges. <br />
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I also sense that many people here are deeply uncomfortable about the subject of the purges. This could be for a number of reasons, many of which are not mutually-exclusive. For example, accordingly to what I have heard, certain ethnic groups in Mongolia were hit more severely than others during the purges. In such accounts, the Buryat people of northeastern Mongolia and people of the southeast (especially in Dariganga) were specifically targeted because of their disproportionate representation amongst the intelligentsia and politically-minded as well as their historical relationships with 'outsiders' (Russia and China, respectively). <br />
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I've also been told that since most Mongolian families at the time sent at least one son to become a monk, every family in Mongolia had at least one loved one taken from them when the monks were purged. Although there is a Memorial Museum of Victims of Political Persecution in Ulaanbaatar, the purges aren't directly shown as part of the 20th-century display in the National Museum of Mongolia and I've personally found it a little-known topic outside of academia when speaking to non-Mongolians. I can certainly see that it's a very difficult and sensitive topic for the Mongolian people.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksmv6b2V5kWFzLvvidfVo6AEWikJepjt7wPNAy6PIsKLJ0ySVAX6b6O2y711l8KBZhdpHibORvIa295L-Ub7tJI7_0PEPcWPQ7IjzQiR0YtajYdVDLa5mNvfAc5kpS7rE63Ave7MzgUI/s1600/Trip+2_024_15244773972_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksmv6b2V5kWFzLvvidfVo6AEWikJepjt7wPNAy6PIsKLJ0ySVAX6b6O2y711l8KBZhdpHibORvIa295L-Ub7tJI7_0PEPcWPQ7IjzQiR0YtajYdVDLa5mNvfAc5kpS7rE63Ave7MzgUI/s1600/Trip+2_024_15244773972_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper temple at Khungun Khan/Ikh Khan Uul monastery, Bulgan. Several temples have been rebuilt at Khungun Khan since reconstruction began in 1992.</td></tr>
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The ruins and wreckage of monastic buildings and communities throughout the Mongolian countryside are a tangible and undeniable reminder of death and destruction. Some of these places have been rebuilt, such as Khungun Khan/Ikh Khan Uul, and are seeing a return of monks, the faithful, and even tourists.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh80q57a_l1AlD1TKGk0M-zxZQioXTohiZYnZIRZs-XgaUbWBY4woO9XW8QB3bZRRold_Tgig6GFRvHeL8GDYXPTboIluGeOSP48E2o_tI6v-1mOp6Lo2Ez11J0KiqVLTM2f-NlkKF071U/s1600/Trip+3+-+Rashaan+Khad+sunset+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh80q57a_l1AlD1TKGk0M-zxZQioXTohiZYnZIRZs-XgaUbWBY4woO9XW8QB3bZRRold_Tgig6GFRvHeL8GDYXPTboIluGeOSP48E2o_tI6v-1mOp6Lo2Ez11J0KiqVLTM2f-NlkKF071U/s1600/Trip+3+-+Rashaan+Khad+sunset+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset at Rashaan Khad site, Khentii</td></tr>
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Khentii's greatest claim to fame is its pride as the birthplace of Chinggis Khan. Recently the provincial capital officially changed its name to <i>Chinggis</i>, although the old name still appears on many maps. The legendary burial grounds of the Chinggisid royal line at Burkhan Khaldun, deep in the mountains on the western margin of the province, have been the target of archaeological investigations by the National University of Mongolia as well as a site of pilgrimage for the Mongolian people.<br />
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Although we visited a few sites associated with Chinggis Khan during our time in Khentii, we didn't go to any of the more famous sites. However, we not only saw spectacularly beautiful countryside, we met amazingly friendly people and visited a broad spectrum of archaeological sites in terms of time period and site type.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibbHU9z78ed8IskIXhAbqwa-eH3Xd4zeYp4wmHwApe_enZM6d-TnqpjYzqzWbr-0tbLNT38wLlGWJlzeXTnTcxLLSDwr0jLH_x5oyYfEox1rfjLIjD4cGlnAWloNeJkz9-2vdjexYqoRE/s1600/Trip+3_045_15244732612_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibbHU9z78ed8IskIXhAbqwa-eH3Xd4zeYp4wmHwApe_enZM6d-TnqpjYzqzWbr-0tbLNT38wLlGWJlzeXTnTcxLLSDwr0jLH_x5oyYfEox1rfjLIjD4cGlnAWloNeJkz9-2vdjexYqoRE/s1600/Trip+3_045_15244732612_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;"><i>Ovoo </i>near Khurkh River, Khentii</td></tr>
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As soon as we turned off-road into Khentii backcountry, I felt like I'd been magically transported back to Washington state (specifically the northeastern side of the Cascade Range). The photograph below, taken from the hilltop fortress wall Uglugchiin Kherem, illustrates my point:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinTNq-wWtEjfJNSp6Ub2x2rb5UQ8L88aWRxRzIGDxR00WjeYAO0hrXYzQAO3NCCpt2LgsGGyqgSQBiGSSmSLMwnlwPGMUC2T8XWJUm5VYHebnm3RQw38xLuPmtpj_LyE3VayaWm2t90x8/s1600/Trip+3+-+view+from+Uglugchiin+Kherem+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinTNq-wWtEjfJNSp6Ub2x2rb5UQ8L88aWRxRzIGDxR00WjeYAO0hrXYzQAO3NCCpt2LgsGGyqgSQBiGSSmSLMwnlwPGMUC2T8XWJUm5VYHebnm3RQw38xLuPmtpj_LyE3VayaWm2t90x8/s640/Trip+3+-+view+from+Uglugchiin+Kherem+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pop quiz: Khentii or Mazama?</td></tr>
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Khentii is the most lush, densely forested part of Mongolia that I have visited, full of berries, waving grasses, looping rivers, forested hills, and wildflowers. Wildflowers on almost every slope, peeping out of ancient burials or bobbing their heads over glacially-cold streams, in myriad shapes and colors.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrcf9nqtkuv6lLYZtlt0dVPhpiXcXMTnYtk6OyMUiydQxiV4p0CP7ogpwQmsNaWDjjQzBO4b5hZzE1SNBPCYvDD8ycC4n_feWvfmR8LF1afTFkxM0V6Xw6ah3QWOob-hVTtg0fk5e-lgY/s1600/15242655861_5f0d3fe1c0_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrcf9nqtkuv6lLYZtlt0dVPhpiXcXMTnYtk6OyMUiydQxiV4p0CP7ogpwQmsNaWDjjQzBO4b5hZzE1SNBPCYvDD8ycC4n_feWvfmR8LF1afTFkxM0V6Xw6ah3QWOob-hVTtg0fk5e-lgY/s1600/15242655861_5f0d3fe1c0_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wildflowers near Bayan River, Khentii. Never have I seen as many blue flowers in my entire life as I did Khentii. These colors are not Photoshopped; those flowers really are that blue!</td></tr>
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Khentii is remarkable also for the proliferation of rivers and streams. While Mongolia is a very arid country over a number of ecological zones, much of Khentii is verdant, making it the literal bread basket of the country. The only two downsides to Khentii's watery ways: 1) muddy roads and 2) aggressive mosquito swarms.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiHZuozeWGIjpUFa9AGrm10d5B_AbSgypDRJnrfhYGRB7vi8z-G9Ot32x5Ph9cl4Q8frp-1Bj2V6payRImdPUDrjxk9-yQum3jeDH0VQThplwhFvO8lfYyc5T1lPUqBKOn30X6Vd0OypE/s1600/Trip+3_025_15242042011_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiHZuozeWGIjpUFa9AGrm10d5B_AbSgypDRJnrfhYGRB7vi8z-G9Ot32x5Ph9cl4Q8frp-1Bj2V6payRImdPUDrjxk9-yQum3jeDH0VQThplwhFvO8lfYyc5T1lPUqBKOn30X6Vd0OypE/s1600/Trip+3_025_15242042011_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset along Khurkh River, Khentii</td></tr>
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Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the night our team spent in the actual pine forests along the Eg River outside of the small town of Batshireet. That's probably because, although the site was a lovely secluded grove with a bed of pine needles overlooking the rushing river, the mosquitoes were ravenous, relentless pests. We were driven into our tents rather early and I doubt anyone thought a few photos were worth a dozen bites.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstozXWeYuDWxeBp18tngX5DwT6rr0e6LYpn4xZ1e9CSBiPShMu-2t-HF-Y_sDVUTdnKqi2QzgRE0APgAY8_J7wmCefsM6Phi0q1tmVz7WlMggLyzqfKjs3dB7K_iK_UW4pjcgJRXHzxQ/s1600/15245146002_5079fcacc4_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjstozXWeYuDWxeBp18tngX5DwT6rr0e6LYpn4xZ1e9CSBiPShMu-2t-HF-Y_sDVUTdnKqi2QzgRE0APgAY8_J7wmCefsM6Phi0q1tmVz7WlMggLyzqfKjs3dB7K_iK_UW4pjcgJRXHzxQ/s1600/15245146002_5079fcacc4_o.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stupa near Umnudelger, Khentii</td></tr>
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Uvurkhangai Province marked the furthest westward extent of summer 2014 reconnaissance expeditions. Our team traveled along the Orkhon River into the national park of the same name and the major waterfall (Ulaan tsutgalan) not far from the river's source.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnBx_KBtlU6hs7eo-BdFXI3vMlGzSLFZZpOjDe9oNoGWsIyRK-pJkKYL-SiT_V6EQrPEFgV5d6Y5lVKGKOhthP9H0_ER63bX5sQJvsK1QsY_fP2cYpl29ErUcq7yguUkxjd42sa7oCVgY/s1600/15222505176_32b34ee481_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnBx_KBtlU6hs7eo-BdFXI3vMlGzSLFZZpOjDe9oNoGWsIyRK-pJkKYL-SiT_V6EQrPEFgV5d6Y5lVKGKOhthP9H0_ER63bX5sQJvsK1QsY_fP2cYpl29ErUcq7yguUkxjd42sa7oCVgY/s1600/15222505176_32b34ee481_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">UAZ/<i>furgong</i> on the road to Khujirt, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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After some adventures with extremely muddy roads in Khentii, we journeyed along the equally rough roads along the Upper Orkhon River in a <i>furgong</i>.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVrNld3SHI-u80f6Dt6FkEqH3i8gXVTQYoUXbJmm0LY4YfBkIMnAN10E5wyyawMmCwwQ7WxJHgvknlJQjrY1SaQH9UboplKfd9kicc_vDkRziwUh62G_Yiwate8f90YfPZegGIL3hqP0/s1600/Trip+4_057_15245042055_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVrNld3SHI-u80f6Dt6FkEqH3i8gXVTQYoUXbJmm0LY4YfBkIMnAN10E5wyyawMmCwwQ7WxJHgvknlJQjrY1SaQH9UboplKfd9kicc_vDkRziwUh62G_Yiwate8f90YfPZegGIL3hqP0/s1600/Trip+4_057_15245042055_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 16px;">UAZ/<i>furgong </i>going off-road, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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The <i>furgong </i>is the ultimate in Mongolian travel. Whether or not the Soviet aesthetic appeals to you, you can't deny that it's easy to fix, hard to flip over, capable of pulling other vehicles, and up to most tasks that the Mongolian countryside can through at it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgpJl-2SW1Zvkeuugb8rYT0Jv7YLiP-nN4qqBdwSvbImzzFfVToeHFVo-563Vzbj8KPBIMFqw9cFE2gPzsqb_jhZ1Md6YK6sm3oMRI9nJu406eXMv-p1xNb11voETZej0Nt6r-Sz_9jtg/s1600/Trip+4+-+Ulaan+Tsutgalan+area.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgpJl-2SW1Zvkeuugb8rYT0Jv7YLiP-nN4qqBdwSvbImzzFfVToeHFVo-563Vzbj8KPBIMFqw9cFE2gPzsqb_jhZ1Md6YK6sm3oMRI9nJu406eXMv-p1xNb11voETZej0Nt6r-Sz_9jtg/s1600/Trip+4+-+Ulaan+Tsutgalan+area.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orkhon River floodplain, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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Much of our time was spent in the Orkhon River National Park, which encloses a wide alluvial plain broken up by basalt rock deposits, plateaus, and canyons. There are actually <i>khirigsuur </i>hidden amongst these deposits, as well as other archaeological sites distributed all around the river proper. The plain is lined by forested mountains, which are difficult to traverse via vehicle due to poor roads.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVgpsQNQA8l6esTEn_l0-lbVPOf3g8uD0D9ZK2USP00F0O8EPtbfhpGffJmnpxn4znH__NLkHReF_jJspcnUfFmy5_BsGIX86Lat5pzM4uwmX0fkxTzJwxBPtAFMBDCmAqsI00-VSR7M/s1600/Trip+4+-+Ulaan+Tsutsgalan+Orkhon+falls+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioVgpsQNQA8l6esTEn_l0-lbVPOf3g8uD0D9ZK2USP00F0O8EPtbfhpGffJmnpxn4znH__NLkHReF_jJspcnUfFmy5_BsGIX86Lat5pzM4uwmX0fkxTzJwxBPtAFMBDCmAqsI00-VSR7M/s1600/Trip+4+-+Ulaan+Tsutsgalan+Orkhon+falls+2.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orkhon waterfall at Ulaan tsutgalan, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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The Orkhon waterfall, <i>Ulaan tsutgalan</i>, is the destination of choice for most who venture into Orkhon River National Park. It is truly spectacular and worth the bumpy, muddy driver from the park entrance.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtTkkk6Tj1YHicPSmWwBZhyphenhyphenRDkjralG8FiAQL20BaFBMWBDY5oNRS3A7ouR8v3DylIEUU2-vuLjVqYGCGMrp8SDNpbPgqMSwQKQ_GKdKaT_jvgBcPZdQm3pFHStpSAehVnBDqkdZfcr2M/s1600/Trip+4+-+Ulaan+Tsutsgalan+Natural+museum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtTkkk6Tj1YHicPSmWwBZhyphenhyphenRDkjralG8FiAQL20BaFBMWBDY5oNRS3A7ouR8v3DylIEUU2-vuLjVqYGCGMrp8SDNpbPgqMSwQKQ_GKdKaT_jvgBcPZdQm3pFHStpSAehVnBDqkdZfcr2M/s1600/Trip+4+-+Ulaan+Tsutsgalan+Natural+museum.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horns at the Natural Museum, Ulaan tsutgalan, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkJuZU0xW-9IkErsnyPFY1KMxrE221GDANb03g1Y6bdoA7urKI8VE6zqIC5jm3z80kxFCPpnRbvCTCEB4jfkPMKneKezwaqD3VCvHBcvxvwTOxU2fM-AZy9pSIGRbuE7meH57Lz3fifRE/s1600/15244989202_f21612f98e_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkJuZU0xW-9IkErsnyPFY1KMxrE221GDANb03g1Y6bdoA7urKI8VE6zqIC5jm3z80kxFCPpnRbvCTCEB4jfkPMKneKezwaqD3VCvHBcvxvwTOxU2fM-AZy9pSIGRbuE7meH57Lz3fifRE/s1600/15244989202_f21612f98e_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Ovoo </i>at the Orkhon waterfall, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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Our journey through Uvurkhangai also took us up into the mountains along the southern margin of the Orkhon River floodplain. At this higher elevation, temperatures dropped and the forests drew densely around the ruined mountain roads. Mogoit Rashaan ("snake springs") rests high in the mountains outside of Bat-Ulzii, where numerous smaller springs bubble up out of the earth, join together into a river, and flow down into the main valley. Each smaller spring is reported to treat a specific ailment; for example, there is a spring for "women's issues", "men's issues", eyes, allergies, and so forth. Our assistant Ariuna diligently gathered water from appropriate spring sources for each team member after the caretaker of the hotspring resort pointed them out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip5J6o4NN-H3g3YaPL3239R1t7QWOYVBdUt3nFpEnjLrXgj_ZLIQ_kGtazGw_aWF6OV4e4_bT3XIG3n-1_gtMSTHfGEP9OXfDLHNUpVKFAgVOU3mlGj6YA7PFoJKnfDO6Ue2SOHXNgneE/s1600/Trip+4_051_15244667492_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip5J6o4NN-H3g3YaPL3239R1t7QWOYVBdUt3nFpEnjLrXgj_ZLIQ_kGtazGw_aWF6OV4e4_bT3XIG3n-1_gtMSTHfGEP9OXfDLHNUpVKFAgVOU3mlGj6YA7PFoJKnfDO6Ue2SOHXNgneE/s1600/Trip+4_051_15244667492_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the road to Mogoit Rashaan hotsprings, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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Out on the main floodplain of the Orkhon River in Uvurkhangai, yaks abound. Yaks thrive in colder weather and higher elevation than other Mongolian livestock. We spent a night with an extended family of yak herders near Bat-Ulzii and slept in the grandmother's ger pictured below (more on that in a later post).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLYZKoiviR-4owQ_QjWtVqP1B3yeos-M0-dxhkjuFtZhl2MQbYzqLqNajgjFsh6r80IMUdtkH7HZi1DZAau3BEJ-k0uou7IWpHK9l_e5elLz2wsCG1J5DQsAmD5lH9hioB-WCbSLr6Moc/s1600/Trip+4_016_15222082406_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLYZKoiviR-4owQ_QjWtVqP1B3yeos-M0-dxhkjuFtZhl2MQbYzqLqNajgjFsh6r80IMUdtkH7HZi1DZAau3BEJ-k0uou7IWpHK9l_e5elLz2wsCG1J5DQsAmD5lH9hioB-WCbSLr6Moc/s1600/Trip+4_016_15222082406_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vehicles of choice in Bat-Ulzii, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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Our last night in the field was spent along the willow-lined banks of the placid Orkhon River as it lazily flows through Arkhangai Province, between the rushing headwaters in Bat-Ulzii and the massive canyon that starts in Bulgan Province.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnqPaNyYjfjaK2DipXa8Kd20Y8Toe5tOZd1k8SV3pbmPdpeZmJXXFoarndInqbx5WYGQhxKyMXgl9gD0PyVvx68n8NkiECl4nzXM4dZSycpVNfwsLvNU0De4mMaRXo8k8p5gPZjOq-A8k/s1600/Trip+4_149_15244854862_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnqPaNyYjfjaK2DipXa8Kd20Y8Toe5tOZd1k8SV3pbmPdpeZmJXXFoarndInqbx5WYGQhxKyMXgl9gD0PyVvx68n8NkiECl4nzXM4dZSycpVNfwsLvNU0De4mMaRXo8k8p5gPZjOq-A8k/s1600/Trip+4_149_15244854862_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orkhon River, Arkhangai</td></tr>
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In fact, we camped near the old rickety wooden bridge over the Orkhon River that foiled the vehicles from my first ever expedition in Mongolia (2005 to Tamiryn Ulaan Khoshuu). The bridge is practically falling apart, although some small cars still cross it, but the summer students made better use of it:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu2R3EA8xyoLXro0FK5zN_9hPcgpYr9Rxs1sD5remzlcmFxj2l2ugTprilbmMzIZbr3h0nuckpBfLdJ6XH2GacHuFKF8AdHZyQb4CsJ67tHXQOUnDszpDJDuQ-oQAPBXquooWhCTje-iA/s1600/Trip+4_150_15244572162_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu2R3EA8xyoLXro0FK5zN_9hPcgpYr9Rxs1sD5remzlcmFxj2l2ugTprilbmMzIZbr3h0nuckpBfLdJ6XH2GacHuFKF8AdHZyQb4CsJ67tHXQOUnDszpDJDuQ-oQAPBXquooWhCTje-iA/s400/Trip+4_150_15244572162_l.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Our last night was spent telling unnerving rumors and ghost stories around a campfire. We got ourselves so spooked that we were convinced that lights amongst the trees meant something similar (they turned out to be the car of a family that camped upstream from us). You'd never guess that anyone could get scared at such a peaceful spot!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE-otYusEoqHzY6OnZp8FkwwHDB285mZgyqgzkEcNfmy04wVUCMXGcMvKNmul6UGC5qTiPSOa4DbH-JMfN_Fj-PdmTsMt1y3utHhs88fe6WjQ2L5m4A3LjGLMnlar9IDL_FkMBDk4RgpI/s1600/Trip+4_157_15244851142_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE-otYusEoqHzY6OnZp8FkwwHDB285mZgyqgzkEcNfmy04wVUCMXGcMvKNmul6UGC5qTiPSOa4DbH-JMfN_Fj-PdmTsMt1y3utHhs88fe6WjQ2L5m4A3LjGLMnlar9IDL_FkMBDk4RgpI/s1600/Trip+4_157_15244851142_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Willows along a tributary of the Orkhon River, Arkhangai</td></tr>
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<u>Next time:</u><br />
Close encounters of the Mongolian kind! The landscapes represented here are incomplete without the people and animals of the Mongolian countryside, whose activities and lives shape every context we visited. In 2014 I was fortunate enough to meet a number of amazing people in the <i>khuduu </i>(Mongolian countryside) as our little team traveled around conducting reconnaissance, and we had our fair share of encounters with domesticated and a few wild animals. I'll try to cram all of those eventful meetings and new friendships - or the highlights - into one post.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBMewHqQsml95N57P3d-QxWicV4P01GfFnplzoQBNobv2zSWCKb9IWmSPewthIqxQtXVGWluzVTnUBFWVtD39ochgJFj9NlMS_OZhaCVm1RDooSapgUV9I7Qhwmlq4-twlqzs5ETIKWg/s1600/15242698111_de84bba551_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBMewHqQsml95N57P3d-QxWicV4P01GfFnplzoQBNobv2zSWCKb9IWmSPewthIqxQtXVGWluzVTnUBFWVtD39ochgJFj9NlMS_OZhaCVm1RDooSapgUV9I7Qhwmlq4-twlqzs5ETIKWg/s1600/15242698111_de84bba551_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset in Suujiin Valley, Bulgan Province</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-90103463076757969392015-05-06T07:16:00.002-07:002015-07-02T19:05:35.196-07:00The summer of 2014 is dead. Long live the summer of 2014!The BMA 2014 project didn't work out. Rather than dwell on the unhappy particulars, this post will focus on the good things that did happen during the summer of 2014 in Mongolia.<br />
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Most of the student volunteers who had signed up to work on the BMA project journeyed to Mongolia in order to gain field experience and make the most of their summers. To that end, our small teams conducted informal archaeological reconnaissance excursions through five provinces. The team visited numerous significant historical and religious sites, reconnoitered in a variety of ecological zones (mixed desert-steppe, steppe, and <i>khangai </i>or forested hills), and got a crash-course, rough-and-ready education on all things Mongolian.<br />
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The majority if not all of the photos below were taken by Ellen Platts, one of the team members and archaeological reconnaissance photographer. She did a great job capturing our progress. I encourage you to visit her blog - http://ellenplatts.com/ - for her posts on the summer of 2014 in Mongolia and more images. The photos below are organized in chronological order but it's difficult to explain the rhyme or reason of the reconnaissance routes without preparing and uploading a series of maps and dates. Instead, an impressionistic highlights real of the archaeological component of the summer conveys the 'meat' of the team's experiences.<br />
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<u>Field reconnaissance:</u><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCA27x62gnOnVNVDyTKU6ZyBtZyj-xLAyCAhvh5sm1i9UQ-NVBeKGWoyCRBOQx1kCTMwqDWY3vUINdXT6v05Yxkd5YXaJ7S_JNda5ZyGEiNaDjkNOaoxdHK_GiQpQlRnB75dN0uaXZrY/s1600/Trip+1_014_15242099191_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCA27x62gnOnVNVDyTKU6ZyBtZyj-xLAyCAhvh5sm1i9UQ-NVBeKGWoyCRBOQx1kCTMwqDWY3vUINdXT6v05Yxkd5YXaJ7S_JNda5ZyGEiNaDjkNOaoxdHK_GiQpQlRnB75dN0uaXZrY/s400/Trip+1_014_15242099191_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recording a <i>khirigsuur </i>in the Khunui River valley, Arkhangai</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmk35u4AE0hAOKXZj7lW3HmCf-UxwHq7ZGGRxD5_oPwJGoc5MfPkudOhjrrFrdfo6aTPt3JeeMb45HaKvEdF81DnEaK4Jk5Z-k6PzanghGnTu-_s5yAeab80hei0tzxebIbg9hwfYvJnk/s1600/Trip+4_087_15222012146_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYMGx2JlXInJB3hqIqnkutuVFrAbt7rgrm4S38vP1FILxur48LIXhLsyTlTi051attooIMad2atrdB-yyTWrVsb-q4weC5sj91myzjYrtp16igMIa-yl1eM5Ku4ktnCREUhVxBiu_P968/s1600/UVR050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYMGx2JlXInJB3hqIqnkutuVFrAbt7rgrm4S38vP1FILxur48LIXhLsyTlTi051attooIMad2atrdB-yyTWrVsb-q4weC5sj91myzjYrtp16igMIa-yl1eM5Ku4ktnCREUhVxBiu_P968/s400/UVR050.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Identifying rock art in Suujiin Valley, Bulgan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Community relations in Khentii</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmk35u4AE0hAOKXZj7lW3HmCf-UxwHq7ZGGRxD5_oPwJGoc5MfPkudOhjrrFrdfo6aTPt3JeeMb45HaKvEdF81DnEaK4Jk5Z-k6PzanghGnTu-_s5yAeab80hei0tzxebIbg9hwfYvJnk/s1600/Trip+4_087_15222012146_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our field team at the Orkhon waterfall (Ulaan tsutgalan, Uvurkhangai)</td></tr>
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<u>Our traveling REI photoshoot:</u><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidqmZ9Rz33vS-27Kc6gFoX9CvBHVwg0JTdwHu-yQI-B_KgNtcVymi4QK96PgVDcX8yyRtBAcgvJN88T3DEu_OOlyeMLuWeHvLr9XWGDKlBlR9qm28Y7-ezDpxN4WlcZ35g-9l7ql_I3oU/s1600/Trip+1_013_15058434029_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidqmZ9Rz33vS-27Kc6gFoX9CvBHVwg0JTdwHu-yQI-B_KgNtcVymi4QK96PgVDcX8yyRtBAcgvJN88T3DEu_OOlyeMLuWeHvLr9XWGDKlBlR9qm28Y7-ezDpxN4WlcZ35g-9l7ql_I3oU/s400/Trip+1_013_15058434029_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset along the Khunui River, Arkhangai</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxOx-ZV7U05l8uGN7E8Kar0e2oKYxbE7LXgennbWXSn6QaITn2VQ3dMP_XkU6p1dbTbqYQl6rHvcdhCok4M7_VB6QLJObPXfBKJCMLRyTSFmBWgdS2qcAMILO9vM0EYg9kx_4bY9qOlo8/s1600/Trip+2+-+basecamp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxOx-ZV7U05l8uGN7E8Kar0e2oKYxbE7LXgennbWXSn6QaITn2VQ3dMP_XkU6p1dbTbqYQl6rHvcdhCok4M7_VB6QLJObPXfBKJCMLRyTSFmBWgdS2qcAMILO9vM0EYg9kx_4bY9qOlo8/s400/Trip+2+-+basecamp.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North of Khungun Khan/Ikh Khan Uul, Bulgan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXAgeBOa6LSsP9zqkq88aK1CwUz_3hIz_SrHLS69PiD1mEe_IyO4vNY1FfJxtiYDfeiCpYXR_fr6TNX4wXRN0IHRmGb_ZAXoPgO3lgOJA6YAclEBMdNtvpJ8j5p6lk1OMrVIVnXDeJ24/s1600/Trip+3_070_15244720002_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdXAgeBOa6LSsP9zqkq88aK1CwUz_3hIz_SrHLS69PiD1mEe_IyO4vNY1FfJxtiYDfeiCpYXR_fr6TNX4wXRN0IHRmGb_ZAXoPgO3lgOJA6YAclEBMdNtvpJ8j5p6lk1OMrVIVnXDeJ24/s400/Trip+3_070_15244720002_l.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near Khurkh River, Khentii</td></tr>
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<u>Archaeological highlights:</u><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJ1uw00Y5ddv19GKLKPpW6sZTZ77FCev-GVLJDm_R4PaxEo2BE1UdtOnkOyRreneEkB_ZmLpFIJACprX8xHXnuMycXRWkIZLyRmBrEeOdrZojozrG-CySwR7bb6glrhPUQEPxpF5kKsw/s1600/BUL005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJ1uw00Y5ddv19GKLKPpW6sZTZ77FCev-GVLJDm_R4PaxEo2BE1UdtOnkOyRreneEkB_ZmLpFIJACprX8xHXnuMycXRWkIZLyRmBrEeOdrZojozrG-CySwR7bb6glrhPUQEPxpF5kKsw/s400/BUL005.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monumental <i>khirigsuur</i> and part of a much larger Bronze Age cemetery in Orkhon, Bulgan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYR9ugecAcreR7l4wSmVvjuVUPr44cxgybCAif90-dInJwbYbf5uJK-cyLLodmf07jbVa80enelz96CrhyphenhyphenjDEXJmscEjUf9i9GfHXf3_isFy-ttzVhLmUkwobUhOw0m7MlchxDp_gXKBk/s1600/BUL040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYR9ugecAcreR7l4wSmVvjuVUPr44cxgybCAif90-dInJwbYbf5uJK-cyLLodmf07jbVa80enelz96CrhyphenhyphenjDEXJmscEjUf9i9GfHXf3_isFy-ttzVhLmUkwobUhOw0m7MlchxDp_gXKBk/s1600/BUL040.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rock art panel with people, horses, and possibly dogs in Saikhan, Bulgan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnQkBa3ag14Q-X7e0xhM17cDQZD7a6Cj56RlUf5IHK1wZRyzt3gdYH4cfG1Yq7grgk4-t-VJxSWJ1ffaDMi4yGX-PoxTUff_GCwNsda9kyMo3bVD7qSTT4XfsjkzokHleLVPf4dqT-YxU/s1600/BUL028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnQkBa3ag14Q-X7e0xhM17cDQZD7a6Cj56RlUf5IHK1wZRyzt3gdYH4cfG1Yq7grgk4-t-VJxSWJ1ffaDMi4yGX-PoxTUff_GCwNsda9kyMo3bVD7qSTT4XfsjkzokHleLVPf4dqT-YxU/s400/BUL028.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unusual <i>khun chuluu </i>in Saikhan, Bulgan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNAjLpVHQ4jiSK245c8TcSCkmlYMYbOnEGlbLUV_XG1oXG2B2q3Hco7n59lyy2yc-cn9EhFH-Kl3I6Q3XrlqOLiFWBa_CrKETKg43-J53EGpG6uA-pTblofYQLnGERFKnzOgKycaMrSbc/s1600/BUL036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNAjLpVHQ4jiSK245c8TcSCkmlYMYbOnEGlbLUV_XG1oXG2B2q3Hco7n59lyy2yc-cn9EhFH-Kl3I6Q3XrlqOLiFWBa_CrKETKg43-J53EGpG6uA-pTblofYQLnGERFKnzOgKycaMrSbc/s1600/BUL036.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Collection of five <i>khun chuluu </i>in Saikhan, Bulgan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs0JSKJEDC4UB_RM_kJPop7JsqdLHDweV8fSDpge-i1nUszkHO3mHKYlqu21RDc2Roa3hFwYAsX1jsC-OX2oDs3jlYqiy8wCU1FqnKfoCdg526JN6q24KhXboPH8K99jrAgqPGO72dcVs/s1600/UVR105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs0JSKJEDC4UB_RM_kJPop7JsqdLHDweV8fSDpge-i1nUszkHO3mHKYlqu21RDc2Roa3hFwYAsX1jsC-OX2oDs3jlYqiy8wCU1FqnKfoCdg526JN6q24KhXboPH8K99jrAgqPGO72dcVs/s400/UVR105.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roof tile fragments from the ruins of a Buddhist monastery in Sumyn Am, Bulgan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiw7gq7isadLvQvvr9oNcVFBF8U1IOn3th1bB1sjXowZJ8Nemy6YOIAwAvklUSTuLS-xKjJMAEPLB0MNpWQ0mFXwgCDB0LBi8U4Nn37CqlFaV5paUSVm62FB1-zu3_rEN30M3sVGeVZvc/s1600/KHN002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiw7gq7isadLvQvvr9oNcVFBF8U1IOn3th1bB1sjXowZJ8Nemy6YOIAwAvklUSTuLS-xKjJMAEPLB0MNpWQ0mFXwgCDB0LBi8U4Nn37CqlFaV5paUSVm62FB1-zu3_rEN30M3sVGeVZvc/s400/KHN002.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Balbal </i>line and Turk-period grave (in the distance) near Monostoi River, Khentii</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsXpBEU_vyJVy0vx_XGy6qIZyuonTyBYfivUy5EoUjFc-8jKQMj-QYQlLu8FmYoyYBtyNC029ki1Scy7ZCVse29qx3fUM43vkW-AVkEBKGA5EmDngs1l0akyyNcgB0BxKcrcsEoXxnM8/s1600/KHN050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsXpBEU_vyJVy0vx_XGy6qIZyuonTyBYfivUy5EoUjFc-8jKQMj-QYQlLu8FmYoyYBtyNC029ki1Scy7ZCVse29qx3fUM43vkW-AVkEBKGA5EmDngs1l0akyyNcgB0BxKcrcsEoXxnM8/s400/KHN050.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lithic <i>debitage </i>at Rashaan Khad site, Khentii</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz4Dybp1dzfabU8A-4JiPA1nWtmF6NGP6QaP1YDfsarWxwbFNV-w58aedNOo0yn9vyYTv1QL4O58t-lPbfTI8zAse5ut8gZFjC0KoD947d0d4qUQpenwNRzFDIOdwFOdUGkusHPT0OybI/s1600/KHN070.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz4Dybp1dzfabU8A-4JiPA1nWtmF6NGP6QaP1YDfsarWxwbFNV-w58aedNOo0yn9vyYTv1QL4O58t-lPbfTI8zAse5ut8gZFjC0KoD947d0d4qUQpenwNRzFDIOdwFOdUGkusHPT0OybI/s400/KHN070.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The woolly rhinoceros at Rashaan Khad (Paleolithic rock art, which is why it's hard to get a good photo)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgum3mh779ftQRnLFn44FddHPFUYz7ypfF2Wwd2LTnMhCA9aKOrJ5-0Hiiha22t5fY40BoTNL6Mi0CkISpLlB__Czo6IaBSSrCe-olxSQlUnA42r9mUWNe-FODauo4ybNOIFfqmYH7AFXY/s1600/Trip+3+-+Uglugchiin+Kherem+wall+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgum3mh779ftQRnLFn44FddHPFUYz7ypfF2Wwd2LTnMhCA9aKOrJ5-0Hiiha22t5fY40BoTNL6Mi0CkISpLlB__Czo6IaBSSrCe-olxSQlUnA42r9mUWNe-FODauo4ybNOIFfqmYH7AFXY/s400/Trip+3+-+Uglugchiin+Kherem+wall+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wall up the mountain at <i>Uglugchiin kherem</i>, Khentii</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeruKX9C4xd1zs6sIdb78h8KVJYhiWOFdm9Z1loCSOsoC_78Xe_wrG4A_SKgCylNNHD5o8kvg9RbR4O6hQvgWDsq2R08MMph8pjg-PTtkJYU4CZ7poU-TXQogkmsQ_w7oUomJlwKPqcRo/s1600/Trip+3+-+view+from+top+of+Uglugchiin+Kherem+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeruKX9C4xd1zs6sIdb78h8KVJYhiWOFdm9Z1loCSOsoC_78Xe_wrG4A_SKgCylNNHD5o8kvg9RbR4O6hQvgWDsq2R08MMph8pjg-PTtkJYU4CZ7poU-TXQogkmsQ_w7oUomJlwKPqcRo/s400/Trip+3+-+view+from+top+of+Uglugchiin+Kherem+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strategic view from the top of the wall, <i>Uglugchiin kherem</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgN_70vaEyy4di700Z9a79cBTKK7r5yDnPIGmjE4w18D7qodtg_Jn18qgghyeuABS6aAdx7cfYut_XJ-nzfe1Bn-KTlyTMAmfLAT66gF66UAd2SJUt5Fug9mYBWkP_hmuJguxSEkzEkA/s1600/KHN114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgN_70vaEyy4di700Z9a79cBTKK7r5yDnPIGmjE4w18D7qodtg_Jn18qgghyeuABS6aAdx7cfYut_XJ-nzfe1Bn-KTlyTMAmfLAT66gF66UAd2SJUt5Fug9mYBWkP_hmuJguxSEkzEkA/s400/KHN114.JPG" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turk-period feature (burial, standing stone at eastern edge of burial, and beginning of a <i>balbal </i>line), Khurkh River, Khentii</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUcFCrmyNXGHfIe-1lnrcFptSgzJR1qLyUJQKJWgUnlZjqL1PUs-jXK1WrDD0L1ZZ5jFkMtiFuRJPBYk6qD22eQ2ZWleVMbievSi7qCBHjnCOKUZSgkrI-lJEpRTx7DBg5UTSj6NF_1zs/s1600/15222289476_4710c87ce0_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUcFCrmyNXGHfIe-1lnrcFptSgzJR1qLyUJQKJWgUnlZjqL1PUs-jXK1WrDD0L1ZZ5jFkMtiFuRJPBYk6qD22eQ2ZWleVMbievSi7qCBHjnCOKUZSgkrI-lJEpRTx7DBg5UTSj6NF_1zs/s400/15222289476_4710c87ce0_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Khar Balgas</i>, ruins of the Uighur capital, Arkhangai</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg42q6JKWtZmJkKD1_wTMZLDb7eNJnTBD-UOExQgfMoqrh22icYHABE5SnpLwNVvcDzgDAL2gytpaDJZU__z7_hLxcTLzBfBmd9KRDvbd8aeGO-EpsRfq2hFquGQ5XH-d4DoM-eR2ghaNw/s1600/15242194851_f83f35b15b_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg42q6JKWtZmJkKD1_wTMZLDb7eNJnTBD-UOExQgfMoqrh22icYHABE5SnpLwNVvcDzgDAL2gytpaDJZU__z7_hLxcTLzBfBmd9KRDvbd8aeGO-EpsRfq2hFquGQ5XH-d4DoM-eR2ghaNw/s1600/15242194851_f83f35b15b_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Earthwork structures at <i>Khar Balgas</i>, Arkhangai</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWeBWrCoDlIjzQUzVy348PxRCN4CUjT5kDzflCVJo_qFciSgJeuEBFzBVKYfX3i7sm3iAIND6tTGSxvNJjQwcCNWMClNU4PYRr8i2GtM5POg3xjTh3AAueAVHn5-iLuRdpDdzCYpOLZA/s1600/Trip+4+-+Khar+Balgas+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWeBWrCoDlIjzQUzVy348PxRCN4CUjT5kDzflCVJo_qFciSgJeuEBFzBVKYfX3i7sm3iAIND6tTGSxvNJjQwcCNWMClNU4PYRr8i2GtM5POg3xjTh3AAueAVHn5-iLuRdpDdzCYpOLZA/s400/Trip+4+-+Khar+Balgas+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Khadag </i>at <i>Khar Balgas</i>, Arkhangai</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY87s-G5awiIPab2v4X0qOJHpNcDOPFi_GhqNZz3LDnvRa7k4dC8EP3VxIjOhEB2LT80pXuxi0vLiJiypzot_7bHRLoCXGZSCLcGdI381DHSXiadES2a9WRQYYoApezSod_E2_40WXemw/s1600/15222344996_f325790a58_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY87s-G5awiIPab2v4X0qOJHpNcDOPFi_GhqNZz3LDnvRa7k4dC8EP3VxIjOhEB2LT80pXuxi0vLiJiypzot_7bHRLoCXGZSCLcGdI381DHSXiadES2a9WRQYYoApezSod_E2_40WXemw/s400/15222344996_f325790a58_o.jpg" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exploring the Khitan ruins, <i>Khar Bukhyn Balgas</i>, near Dashinchilen, Bulgan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeeOtY-6ZES7erI0j5S9oRKxZjsnUiY-0KNWkBFsGbA7IZ_LLOX01xPEJtv1JjCSxB8pBeICVxzOOHBEXPAc5DSSBPz9oUzbYsYg679LRSG6XrhbYOD33ZG5F05SKEfVG8Wt1MuawWflE/s1600/Trip+4+-+Khar+Bukhiin+Balgas+Kitan+stupa+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeeOtY-6ZES7erI0j5S9oRKxZjsnUiY-0KNWkBFsGbA7IZ_LLOX01xPEJtv1JjCSxB8pBeICVxzOOHBEXPAc5DSSBPz9oUzbYsYg679LRSG6XrhbYOD33ZG5F05SKEfVG8Wt1MuawWflE/s400/Trip+4+-+Khar+Bukhiin+Balgas+Kitan+stupa+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stupa at <i>Khar Bukhyn Balgas</i>, Bulgan</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7RnlUca3Cw0Vj78wacEINx64FgofRnNCkOytgtQgW2a1K6CjZqlFqG3hyphenhyphenjGFflliB0dq2Vclpo4UtMJoHkgtP_WDqYnryk2sFXa_95dTdnxdB5qAWoZmbIbrb2aWJ4_DZIZ6QhlcS-E/s1600/Trip+4+-+Temeen+Chuluun+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7RnlUca3Cw0Vj78wacEINx64FgofRnNCkOytgtQgW2a1K6CjZqlFqG3hyphenhyphenjGFflliB0dq2Vclpo4UtMJoHkgtP_WDqYnryk2sFXa_95dTdnxdB5qAWoZmbIbrb2aWJ4_DZIZ6QhlcS-E/s400/Trip+4+-+Temeen+Chuluun+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Children playing at <i>Temeen Chuluun </i>Bronze Age cemetery, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLLJYUS2UD3g3ZI9g5o_QsuCfnxVYTQLqnDxaN_FGk5kqTLrR_xd67wdDwIyyrn55M4-96jQoFnfvhOVM0ht4RB__UNGbTPNDoexrX5r0XstmnmALyAWuC3L5FMXqM4u5V4BVuXnD-8RM/s1600/ARK057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLLJYUS2UD3g3ZI9g5o_QsuCfnxVYTQLqnDxaN_FGk5kqTLrR_xd67wdDwIyyrn55M4-96jQoFnfvhOVM0ht4RB__UNGbTPNDoexrX5r0XstmnmALyAWuC3L5FMXqM4u5V4BVuXnD-8RM/s400/ARK057.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slab burial at <i>Temeen Chuluun</i>, Uvurkhangai</td></tr>
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<u>Next time:</u><br />
There's more to the Mongolian countryside than amazing archaeology, if you can believe it! Our reconnaissance took us through five provinces and tons of adventure. Ellen, the project photographer, snapped tons of gorgeous shots of the rivers, hills, valleys, and sunsets of Central Mongolia. Stay tuned!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgioy5qt2kxp_H8VPve8aDTpTfPeQ9SNAW0PlU0JfJ7wfvXmyfLtsg2MCKhkkFxMSgqLM-BCrpyQonNjJKFVw4TgZk2J-t6Gl7RB3AHxA2pikMSbDwltmr7stS2eHxlJZz8cLmj5S32uBI/s1600/Trip+3+-+Ovoo+near+Rashaan+Khad+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgioy5qt2kxp_H8VPve8aDTpTfPeQ9SNAW0PlU0JfJ7wfvXmyfLtsg2MCKhkkFxMSgqLM-BCrpyQonNjJKFVw4TgZk2J-t6Gl7RB3AHxA2pikMSbDwltmr7stS2eHxlJZz8cLmj5S32uBI/s400/Trip+3+-+Ovoo+near+Rashaan+Khad+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Multiple <i>khadag</i> at an <i>ovoo</i>, Khentii</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8390071755549739098.post-18895852322230172252015-05-04T18:50:00.000-07:002015-05-04T18:50:24.569-07:00One year later...Incredible as it seems, it's been almost exactly one year since I last updated this blog! My apologies for not sharing my stories, thoughts, pictures, and plans with all of you who follow my journey here. Let's just say that the 12 months have been extremely eventful.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDz9GzNcPTVpdIhbTQ7FktrGB3uJVxKYu9DhyphenhyphenCiTK6ogUpxrOMo4dLgeKRrtgaFybXw2gbafhW8-B7tQL60MDCvbDEVzB5udn7S1bN9O6a0LXmIvlr8auC5FnDN-prn9RAoLezM7XBFUU/s1600/Ellen+Trip+4+photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDz9GzNcPTVpdIhbTQ7FktrGB3uJVxKYu9DhyphenhyphenCiTK6ogUpxrOMo4dLgeKRrtgaFybXw2gbafhW8-B7tQL60MDCvbDEVzB5udn7S1bN9O6a0LXmIvlr8auC5FnDN-prn9RAoLezM7XBFUU/s320/Ellen+Trip+4+photo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caution: major changes underway! (Alternatively, mind the abyss and floating geometric shapes)</td></tr>
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It's high-time that I resurrected this blog and I've got a huge backlog of stuff to share. Stay tuned for posts with the highlights of the last 12 months, news about some imminent activities and undertakings, and more!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0